My rough idle solved

[nswst8]

Everytime I wound come to a stop with the A/C on and pressing brake pedal my idle would drop. If I engaged the E-brake while at a stop instead of pressing down on the brake pedal, idle would level out.

Just cleaned the throttle body and that threw my idle up to 1200 rpm, tried to readjust the idle air screw and nothing. Almost backed it out all the way and still nothing. (Counter clockwise "INCREASES" RPM)

Finally just removed the screw and it was covered in soot. Cleaned it off and cleaned screw hole. Made proper idle adjustment and no more idle drag under load.

Now just have to get another o-ring for the screw.

[w261w261]

Nice fix. I'm filing that away in my mind. Thx for posting it.

[Dr_Snooz]

Nice work Phil!

[nswst8]

An old friend of mine always tells me that "You know it's something stupid" and always is. I ordered a couple of new idle screws (8.75 ea.), they don't just sell the o-rings. "Bastards!"

Now I really want to remove and clean the entire throttle body and intake. I have an excuse I bought a couple of those Bisimoto intake gaskets.

[Dr_Snooz]

A little trick for the throttle body: Use a solvent (MAF cleaner or whatever) to clean the pivots for the butterfly. Then follow up with a light oil after it dries. They get dirty and sticky. You'll notice it in 2nd gear at low speeds that the car jerks around a lot when you change gas pedal position slightly. The manual says to replace the throttle body if the butterfly gets sticky, but I've had good luck just cleaning and relubing the pivots.

[nswst8]

Just put in a brand spanking new idle air control screw. "WOW"! What a difference it has made. I highly recommend replacing the old one with a new one.

Even after cleaning the old one and adjusting it, this has still made a big difference. It was difficult to screw it all the way to a fully closed position then back it out 1 full turn to the 1 O'clock postion and your done.

[1987AccordLx-i]

Just put in a brand spanking new idle air control screw. "WOW"! What a difference it has made. I highly recommend replacing the old one with a new one.

Even after cleaning the old one and adjusting it, this has still made a big difference. It was difficult to screw it all the way to a fully closed position then back it out 1 full turn to the 1 O'clock postion and your done.

or you could have just replaced the o-ring... i did and it was fine :D

[stat1K]

^ as he said he couldn't buy just the o-ring.

[nswst8]

or you could have just replaced the o-ring... i did and it was fine :D

If you have a source for the O-ring please share it with the rest of us. I haven't had a chance to measure out the spare I bought. Honda only sold the set screw with the O-ring. $8.75

I was going to measure out the spare and find a source, I have a bunch of O-rings but none fit correctly.

[1987AccordLx-i]

i have a variety pack of o-rings that i thought would be close enough to fit and i just did trial and error... put one on.. if it didnt fit, put another one... then i found one that fit perfectly

EDIT: i havnt a clue what the mark of the variety pack is because my friend took it and never returned it >:/

[ecogabriel]

i have a variety pack of o-rings that i thought would be close enough to fit and i just did trial and error... put one on.. if it didnt fit, put another one... then i found one that fit perfectly

EDIT: i havnt a clue what the mark of the variety pack is because my friend took it and never returned it >:/

Got my o-ring at NAPA by trial and error. Anyway, I may follow your advice regarding the screw. The new one may have a revised shape that makes adjustment easier or the old one may be worn in ways that we may not perceive... Long ago, I had problems with a carbed car where the idle mixture screw would unscrew itself and was difficult to adjust properly. The coned-shaped end had some wear and even filing it did not help. Got a new screw and the difference was instantaneous! :jaw:

[phrenology]

Any suggestions for a DIY throttle body service? I think examining the screws, o-rings and butterfly is a good start. Suggestions on cleaning solvent? I'm not supposed to "work" on the the car here, but if I can clean it up and replace a few o rings and screws in a hurry I should be able to get away with it.

I am experiencing similar problems like in this thread. I have several issues going on in the LXi coupe, but low idle is killing me. When it starts to bottom out below 800 RPM the oil pump isn't getting enough speed, and the pressure keeps dropping. I tried to drive it to the shop today to get it looked at, but sitting in stop and go pre-rush hour cross bay traffic killed my nerves and almost killed the car. Driving a 5 speed in stop and go while having to rev the throttle at idle to keep from choking up is more than I could bear. I think my EGR issues aren't being helped by the low idle and inconsistent vacuum.

Let me know if you have anymore tips...meanwhile I'll keep searching. :ugh2:

[Dr_Snooz]

*Most* complexes won't care if you work on your car. If you keep it mellow and don't leave the car up on jackstands or leave a big mess, you'll be good. Some complexes are real nazis, but most won't care.

As for the idle, why don't you just bump up the speed a little bit? That would be the easiest.

Oh, and having to drive an old heap that isn't running right in stop and go traffic with one foot on the clutch and the other on the brake and gas pedal simultaneously is a right of passage. Anyone can drive a new car. It takes skillz to keep an old one running.

Chin up bud.

[nswst8]

Any suggestions for a DIY throttle body service? I think examining the screws, o-rings and butterfly is a good start. Suggestions on cleaning solvent? I'm not supposed to "work" on the the car here, but if I can clean it up and replace a few o rings and screws in a hurry I should be able to get away with it.

I am experiencing similar problems like in this thread. I have several issues going on in the LXi coupe, but low idle is killing me. When it starts to bottom out below 800 RPM the oil pump isn't getting enough speed, and the pressure keeps dropping. I tried to drive it to the shop today to get it looked at, but sitting in stop and go pre-rush hour cross bay traffic killed my nerves and almost killed the car. Driving a 5 speed in stop and go while having to rev the throttle at idle to keep from choking up is more than I could bear. I think my EGR issues aren't being helped by the low idle and inconsistent vacuum.

Let me know if you have anymore tips...meanwhile I'll keep searching. :ugh2:

Just a plane old can of "Throttle body cleaner" cheapest I found is at O'reillys and some clean rags. Just let it sit for a 1/2 hour before starting it up. The cleaning should only take 20-30 minutes max.

[phrenology]

Oh, and having to drive an old heap that isn't running right in stop and go traffic with one foot on the clutch and the other on the brake and gas pedal simultaneously is a right of passage. Anyone can drive a new car. It takes skillz to keep an old one running.Chin up bud.

Thanks, but I'm not a newb. I'm not trying to be a jerk, but his is my 5th Accord (3rd 5 speed with a bad clutch) that needed some love, so I think I've gone through the right of passage. I just haven't driven in 5 years. Not to mention I haven't had to put up with the brain dead f*cks that designed and numbered the highways here. So in that respect I'm a newb to CA bullsh*t transportation dept. :dunno: I'm not from here but the roads have gone down the sh*tter just like everything else with the budget f*ck up. :rant:

My right of passage was when my engine melted and I drifted backwards into no-line-of-sight, oncoming traffic doing 60-80 mph at me on the Sunshine Skyway. The ebrake snapped, and the only thing that saved me was, fast thinking, slappin' it into gear, and a cellphone. Too bad they don't put the emergency lane on the right side of the bridge where it belongs. I wonder if those asshats in FL ever fixed that? Sat on the apex of the bridge for 3 hours waiting for a tow after the cops told me I needed to "move" my car. I should have just stuck in neutral, given it a push down the other side, gave the cops the finger and road it to hell...soapbox style. :burn:

As for keepin' an old car runnin' I'm just cranky and gettin' tired of this. It's my fault for not really putting the screws to the car before I bought it, but 22 year old cars don't work out of the box unless they've lived with granny. I love 3Geez but I don't have a garage, time and patience to put so much into it. The labor of love is a wee bit sour at this stage. :ugh2:

Yeah I know I'm just b*tchin' :blah:

[Dr_Snooz]

Well, at least you were able to get that off your chest.

Now go fix it. You're not driving around with a slipping trans or bad rings or rod knock or anything expensive or difficult. It's an idle problem and if you run good gas and stay consistent on your maintenance, you won't have a problem.

Okay?

[2oodoor]

wow... talk about rough idle :)

[Lxi4647]

Everytime I wound come to a stop with the A/C on and pressing brake pedal my idle would drop. If I engaged the E-brake while at a stop instead of pressing down on the brake pedal, idle would level out.

Just cleaned the throttle body and that threw my idle up to 1200 rpm, tried to readjust the idle air screw and nothing. Almost backed it out all the way and still nothing. (Counter clockwise "INCREASES" RPM)

Finally just removed the screw and it was covered in soot. Cleaned it off and cleaned screw hole. Made proper idle adjustment and no more idle drag under load.

Now just have to get another o-ring for the screw.

Thanx man... u just give me idea how to fix my idle problem...