Step by step DIY Webber convertion + question [Archive] - 3geez.com

ADRIANFARINA

08-28-2010, 05:40 AM

I'll try and upload as many pictures as possible and make this thread as clear as I can .
but I'll need your help with some questions I have ..
I bought a new Redline Webber kit after deciding that rebuilding the original one doesn't worth it , also wanted to clear the engine bay .

so here we go ..

this is the new kit:

K&N filter
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_6B8F993061FB4AACB79CF0553F2E594D.JPG

adapter plates , bolts and levers
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_07C8C87FDC9D42768FEEA7D4A374C748.JPG

and webber carb
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_249B736EEB36454782295F1A7E1662FA.JPG
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_FCA4EFF9D3C74905A2439FE3CF473F62.JPG
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_DDD48BF8839E4800BB17533504429752.JPG

http://www.3geez.com/forum/images/icons/icon14.gif

ADRIANFARINA

08-28-2010, 05:50 AM

started taking the old one apart:

http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_988E7C09C5BD4C13926A6B948A9687CB.JPG
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_E24AEC3CA260478D838AF0B712F773F1.JPG
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_84148103591C4443BA9530498AF314C2.JPG

this gasket was really really stuck !:mad:
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_7B7A753C7D68444292931AE8378C4051.JPG

taking the original bolts down
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/norm_F54A892DB1F74EBF8EDDFEA763A41C90.JPG

http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/norm_7EF06BB40EFB4E7888E005859A41F998.JPG

a good clean
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_34FD77E0236E410A9C0B4D32DEA043BD.JPG

closing the water hole in the inlet manifold with "liquid metal"
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_D3BE4D1CD519446DB212D81E09DACD4C.JPG

http://www.3geez.com/forum/images/icons/icon14.gif

ADRIANFARINA

08-28-2010, 06:00 AM

now a question ,
I want to start taking stuff down , wich part should I leave and wich one can be taken ( A B C D E F ) ?

http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_1BF9DC4F26304173B71B4924F4D6CA98.JPG

2oodoor

08-28-2010, 11:24 AM

this thread may help http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=64982

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t280/roodoo2/1212441062.jpg

ADRIANFARINA

08-29-2010, 06:29 AM

I found two threads about this convertion , but both aren't completely clear (to me)

here is one
http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=38161

and the one you posted
http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=64982

integratuner77

08-31-2010, 06:14 PM

Great post! I just picked up a 32/36 DFAV and will be doing this very soon. I look forward to your updates and hope to learn from this. Thanks for all the pictures they are a huge help, the more the merrier!

A20A1

09-14-2010, 09:12 PM

now a question ,
I want to start taking stuff down , wich part should I leave and wich one can be taken ( A B C D E F ) ?
A - Remove (Black Box)
B - Remove (AJC)
C - Remove (Hardlines)
D - Remove (Solenoids, I think they are for Auto Idle)
E - Remove (Air suction Valve Components, disconnect vacuum line to valve)
E #2- Remove (AC or Cruise control) I believe you can still use the vacuum holding canister and Cruise control solenoids without the black box and what not, if you want to keep your cruise.
F - Remove Secondary Thermovalve lines but keep the thermovalve in place.

Which parts in the weber conversion threads were unclear? I don't mind rewriting things.

87NoobMachine

09-15-2010, 01:55 PM

A - Remove (Black Box)
B - Remove (AJC)
C - Remove (Hardlines)
D - Remove (Solenoids, I think they are for Auto Idle)
E - Remove (Air suction Valve Components, disconnect vacuum line to valve)
E #2- Remove (AC or Cruise control) I believe you can still use the vacuum holding canister and Cruise control solenoids without the black box and what not, if you want to keep your cruise.
F - Remove Secondary Thermovalve lines but keep the thermovalve in place.

Which parts in the weber conversion threads were unclear? I don't mind rewriting things.

So, pretty much remove everything boxed in red?

A20A1

09-15-2010, 07:14 PM

So, pretty much remove everything boxed in red?

If you want the simple answer, then yes :D

87NoobMachine

09-15-2010, 08:53 PM

If you want the simple answer, then yes :D

What about the complicated answer? lol

ADRIANFARINA

09-24-2010, 08:44 AM

today I've worked some more on the car ,
there are some solenoids and other components that are connected to the vacoom lines , here they are :

the big black box is going down , what about the small black unit with the three vacoom lines? also should be removed?
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/norm_8DC537E3DC174DDCAF3E9F5FFBEACEE8.JPG

this is the left wing (if you stand in front of the car) there are two solenoids mounted on that wing (one is the blue one) m and two vacoom lines connected to these two (one is line #20) , should I take them off?
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_5F19AF194FA64CE68C2C9A7E8CF842C7.JPG

what about the lines that go to the dist. ?
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_3F866A7FB8F94595A6947FB7EC5A1DF7.JPG

these two are mounted on the right wing and have vacoom tube that go inside the wing (!!) , should I take them down? and where do the lines go !?
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/norm_16ED4CDDB3CC455B884DAD400B4A255D.JPG

what do I do with the unit that's located near the valve cover (one that ends at the black plastic box and starts with the large metal tube)?
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_4BBA687CE93C4DDF89B46025C39857D1.JPG

these two are located on the top shock mount (right one) , and have vacoom lines connected to it , should I take it down?
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/norm_F2F4CCF1AD6E47E29592C21F7DF3AB1F.JPG

this are near the inlet manifold , take them down?
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/norm_3CF7A1A5737941479EDB76BBE8E798F7.JPG

what about the black box connector ? just leave it hanging..?
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/norm_FAB985C28F27433890B71FCAC03B804A.JPG

2oodoor

09-24-2010, 08:58 AM

note my picture, see anything missing... plenty

Ok every vacuum line and appliance connected to one can be removed EXCEPT
PVC valve
Brake Booster
Vacuum Advance on Distributor
Cruise control if you want to keep it

lines for windshiled washer remain

Plug for black box can just be disconnected and tucked away in that grommet where it comes out

A lot of vacuum ports need to be plugged off on the intake manifold, and a lot of bolts and brackets and junk can be removed
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t280/roodoo2/1212440978.jpg

2oodoor

09-24-2010, 09:06 AM

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t280/roodoo2/1211403548.jpg

2ndGenGuy

09-24-2010, 09:08 AM

ADRIANFARINA

09-24-2010, 10:17 AM

I suppose it's from the US..

87NoobMachine

09-24-2010, 08:20 PM

turabaka

09-24-2010, 08:38 PM

Xybris

09-24-2010, 09:07 PM

^ I remember from my time working at Honda a mechanic saying it was some sort of altitiude compensator, standard for the 3gee, optional for the 2gee.

car6289

09-24-2010, 10:03 PM

I always thought the small black box with 3 lines running into it is for California emissions models. I've never seen them on anything but California model cars. Was your car imported from the USA? You can remove that by the way. Pretty much as roodoo already said, you pretty much get rid of everything hooked to the carburetor in some form.

By name it's the Air Jet Controller. It provides altitude compensation to maintain stoich air/fuel ratio by controlling the amount of air flow to the main and slow air jets of the primary carb throat. My car (made in Japan and imported in to Canada in 1989) is not California but has made several trips to the USA and there's one (AJC) under my hood. We have emission testing in my part of B.C., so a Weber conversion is out for now. I'll just continue to live with my under hood rubber jungle.:violin: I know it's between shit and syphillis.

InAccordance

09-25-2010, 11:06 AM

mine has (well had) an air jet controller as well.
car was purchased in Bristol, TN in 1988 and has never left this area.
Granted I live in an area that on average is 2k feet above sea level so may have something to do with it.

ADRIANFARINA

09-25-2010, 11:41 AM

so...I can put this part in the bin .. right?

turabaka

09-25-2010, 11:48 AM

yes. You only need to keep one line for the distributor, one for the brake booster, and one for the pcv. Everything else can go. Everything!

2oodoor

09-26-2010, 05:54 AM

Is that your stock intake man.?

well.. I showed three different set ups Ive had, not sure which one youre refering to.
Yes, all of them shown here are stock intakes on the outside but all have been ported out underneath the carb too varying degrees.
This link is to my favorite set up
http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=65894&page=2

87NoobMachine

09-26-2010, 08:28 PM

well.. I showed three different set ups Ive had, not sure which one youre refering to.
Yes, all of them shown here are stock intakes on the outside but all have been ported out underneath the carb too varying degrees.
This link is to my favorite set up
http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=65894&page=2

Wow, that's way too much work for me to comprehend, but it looks super nice. Just wondering cause i was looking under my hood the other day and wondering why yours looked so nice, lol
.

InAccordance

09-27-2010, 03:36 AM

Wow, that's way too much work for me to comprehend, but it looks super nice. Just wondering cause i was looking under my hood the other day and wondering why yours looked so nice, lol
.

nah dude, it looks intense, but it's really the best part about a weber... you get to rip shit off your car and feel awsome about it!

ADRIANFARINA

10-08-2010, 02:50 AM

done some more work on it today (until it started raining :chainsaw:)
took the plug out of the vacoom box and this is how it looked..
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_77404BC1C34249149920B046EC0B2EAF.JPG

the right one is related to what? should I take it off?
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/norm_79EC609D27BA414B94953DA658246431.JPG

we agreed that the stuff connected to the large metal pipe goes down , right?
so how do I block it? what is going through this pipe anyway?
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/norm_CECB95CB454A484A85984CDB24EB367D.JPG

the two items in the center of the picture are connected to the vaccom lines , should I take them off and just leave their wire connectors hanging?
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_CA59D6360C4042EDA9C039A07FA828B5.JPG

these three vacoom lines go into the right wing (one of them hav a valve) , whre do they go and what do I do with them?
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_9F106BD2AE7D45A6B5D4609F64D50416.JPG

thanks!!!!

InAccordance

10-08-2010, 03:54 AM

to make it simple...
the ONLY things you keep are the lines from the distributor, the brake booster line, PCv
anything electronic related to fuel delivery goes away, unplug it, unbolt it, shoot it with a gun.
the canister on the right you most likely dont need anymore
that big pipe in front of the carb is your egr, it goes away too.

ADRIANFARINA

10-08-2010, 06:31 AM

thanks!
ok , the rain stoped and this is what happened..
took some sensors out
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/norm_3A1D9D9C092C4A33AEDFE10160858930.JPG

http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/norm_4D7F466DE5C74B3DB78650C929F31C07.JPG

http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/norm_5C4C17211AE643568F4F1C7FBCDC7FCD.JPG

http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_9C751D5B4428476187ADBC2E6E7E5F66.JPG

http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_694C7EAFAE1C4B8D9A73E815C52EEA54.JPG

is this unit related to the heater?
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_8EDD47FD1C6B4D688BD5E16F3A3905FD.JPG

http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/norm_663153EEAB484F45B5940D9BE7CFC41D.JPG

this is where the vacoom lines go in the wing , wht do I do with them? just leave them like this?
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/norm_2222D8C78684414CB5CAFE293CF13369.JPG

http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/norm_20229FA6D2FA4752AC5D67680104403C.JPG

I want to keep the a/c working, have I removed anything that I shouldn't have?

ADRIANFARINA

10-08-2010, 06:42 AM

also :stick:,
the pcv is the black cube located under the inlet manifold, right?
do I need to take it off? if yes, I only need to plug the black hose at the bottom of it?

what about the egr? where does its vacoom line ends?

InAccordance

10-09-2010, 03:40 AM

pcv is the black box under the intake bolted to the block, leave it where it is.
I just left the intake part of the pcv like it was stock, should be a tube coming off the box that plug into a valve which is connected to the intake.
if your gonna keep the a/c, in the summer id adjust your idle up a bit since you are removing the idle boost selenoid, then just adjust it back down whenever you stop using a/c
My a/c didnt work in the first place so ripped it all out, anyone with a weber and working a/c could prob provide better advice.
any, and I mean ANY vacuum lines that arent related to the distributor can be ripped out and thrown away.
that looks like the heater switch thingy so yea. When you turn your heater on, it opens a valve that lets coolant into the heater core.

ADRIANFARINA

10-09-2010, 04:08 AM

the vacoom line from the egr ,does it go to? (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t280/roodoo2/1211403548.jpg)

these vacoom lines that go into the wing , should I leave them like hanging like this? and where do they end ?

InAccordance

10-09-2010, 10:11 AM

i think those are related with cruise control and/or the a/c idle boost... not 100% on that though.
I'd have to go outside and look but im pretty sure I ripped all that out... my cruise control didnt work either so it went bye bye as well.

as for the egr, since its being unhooked, you dont need a line to it anymore, you can remove the valve itself and block off the hole, or just leave the valve there as a handy plug.

ADRIANFARINA

10-09-2010, 11:50 AM

OK , I'll take the egr down.
where do the vacoom lines end? I'll take them down also .. unless I can use the a/c ones..

InAccordance

10-09-2010, 01:05 PM

you'll have to trace them, im not 100% sure

ADRIANFARINA

10-09-2010, 01:13 PM

they can't be traced... they go inside the wing panel..:dunno:

integratuner77

12-15-2010, 06:41 PM

Did you make any more progress on this?

ADRIANFARINA

12-19-2010, 12:41 PM

yes ,
the carb issue turned into an overhaule...
it was my luck that I was a little dusturbed about a starting problem the car had , so I took the head off .
the head gasket was broken , the watter passages were worn because of regular water usage.
some of the valves were in bad situation , the oil passages from the oil filter to the engine block were almost closed because someone used a lot of RTV there...
after taking the head down , I filled the cylinders with oil and let it stand for few days , the #1 cylinder "suck" half of the oil , #3 and #2 only a little of the oil and #4 is perfect.
it means ... new piston rings.. any recommendations?
I bought a complete engine gasket kit , I'll take the oil pan down and check the big end bearings , cranck bearings and oil pump.
also bought the cam belt and tensioner..
the head was already fixed , new valve stems , new camshaft oil retainer , water passages were fixed/welded , the inlet manifold was cleaned inside and outside , I took the core plugs out and welded the holes (no need for them in Israel)
:dunno:

just want it to go smooth .. no biggie..:nervous:

ADRIANFARINA

12-20-2010, 10:52 AM

as you guys reccomended , I took this out
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/norm_48AE5AC6CBA243499E58AC650FAC0B3A.JPG

but how do I close the holes? the one that goes out of the engine block isn't easy to do ..
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/norm_93F2012427E242AC87E5183F1662F712.JPG

the oil filter is out with its housing .. and look what some idiots before me did ..
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_404372CF563B44F39D6AD9CD72FB3DF3.JPG

this is how the valves looked
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_B6F931C7196540F181DA3CC94DD8A671.JPG

water and oil passages lamost blocked
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_6C8518FD1BFC4AD8BC3287AFE674BAE7.JPG

this is what I've told you about the oil I poured in the cylinders
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_0C2C0C1AE4194167A5FEBB7D2D51201E.JPG

:beat:

CzEcHy

12-20-2010, 12:29 PM

Wait that looks like the PCV :|

I believe to my knowledge, you DEFINITELY need that.

Is it the thing in the middle of the intake manifold? (top of intake infront of carb), a U shaped hose went to it. (underneath manifold also has a box it connects to)

If not, disregard.

stat1K

12-20-2010, 12:35 PM

you don't NEED a pcv but it is there for a reason.

CzEcHy

12-20-2010, 04:27 PM

A clean engine is a happy engine.

ADRIANFARINA

12-20-2010, 09:36 PM

I know the reason why the PCV exists , but is it necessary?
it's there for enviorment reasons , and to help prevent blowing gaskets.

Lil Mike

12-21-2010, 12:15 AM

its dumb to get rid of it, it helps keep the oil clean.

ADRIANFARINA

12-21-2010, 07:21 AM

can I improvise an open filter instead of the black box? I mean .. like the one I'll be using on the valve cover?

I can connect a filter to the tube that comes out from the block .. but what about the hole?

Xaisk

12-21-2010, 08:52 AM

Ive done the weber swap successfully and I left that black box in there.

Im waiting for Lostforawhile to chime in because he knows alot of the technical details on how it keeps our oil from getting watered down and sludging up.

The PCV system in our Accords is really great and I would highly recommend reinstalling it.

Also it keeps your block from not having that hole in it =D

Another good thing to do while you have your stuff apart.. That metal pipe going from your exhaust manifold.. The only sound way of removing it is to go to a junkyard and grab an LXI 4-2-1 header and downpipe. You can pick it up here for about 25 bucks together. The LXI manifold doesnt have that metal pipe at all so you can just throw that thing in the trash. Also the LXI header and downpipe have alot better flow than the 4-1 header that came stock in it.

I personally didnt know about that when I did my swap and drove around by putting a cork in the metal pipe to keep the exhaust from escaping it, but that only worked so well as it will blow out of the pipe after so much pressure builds. You can drive without anything blocking it, but your hood will look black on the underside like mine. Still needs to be cleaned.

Your intake manifold is for a water choke carb. The only problem with that is, if you got the electric choke weber, you will have to fill in that little metal hole in the manifold near where the throat of the carb sits with JB weld or something. It is an absolute MUST do. If you dont you will have water coming out of that hole and going through your intake manifold, down into your cylinders and its all hell from there. Make sure you glob that JB weld on because it is EXTREMELY important that you seal it good.

Last but not least.. your intake manifold will have vacuum inlets/outlets on it that wont go anywhere and will leak vacuum and cause it to run like crap if you do not cap em'. I used rubber caps and mine is holding out, the caps are dryrotting pretty quickly so im going to have to put another pack on. When I finally get money again im going to have aluminum ones welded on so it will last forever.

I think that was the list of the major things you need to look out for. Just use some gasket sealer when you put it together on each gasket to help it seal since you have all the adapter plates, and you should be fine.

ADRIANFARINA

12-25-2010, 12:39 PM

OK,
today I took the oil pan and pistons out.
I don't like the looks of them .. they are ok ... but not so reliable.

here are some pictures,

http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/norm_6E0A4601D83346D282C0C5F995896B1E.JPG
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_C3C09F2DB43D44D197EBD74A3593EFA4.JPG
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_9E60F22CB06B4B1BA7337AC05AC626D6.JPG

http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_64C666C2A3AD492F984899E1B377C951.JPG

#4 cylinder has this corrosion , it's because of the gasket that blew ... water set in there for about 2-3 months until I filled it with oil.
how do I take it out?
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_161A1030C4A840109B2973F4BB94295F.JPG

ADRIANFARINA

12-25-2010, 12:39 PM

no pistons
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_6A9DB1796A8A4C9893B8DF8B127BDF44.JPG

http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_CDB50F416A26443482257BEED2CD86E9.JPG

#1
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_55D59EB7499C43F399BAB7C5EEFE2644.JPG
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_8369F375BE9B416BA3F092BBA78569BC.JPG

#3
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_81AC73FBADEE4E2DBBA6777047C354C4.JPG
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_F2673A0D6C294DD0BB3492C13A84938C.JPG

#4
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_615B6690519948E0B20A132AEB5E36BD.JPG
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_054ED7E4A28D4926A55E607C5372F7B0.JPG

#2
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_2A421B52DCE64491A170C65681C165BB.JPG
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_086C214A4EBC4B64A2A67855EC1D683A.JPG

ADRIANFARINA

12-25-2010, 12:40 PM

more pictures of cylinder #4
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_F7F27F4212A345BF8533EC9F1623977B.JPG
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_253BA5F6B78145C4B9F517152703AADE.JPG
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_198448D22206444CB456C8BDF6872CF8.JPG

the rest of the mounts don't look much better than this one..
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_57F9317116774288A6A2010912EDA3BE.JPG

and this is someone that slept under my car...:nervous:
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_55E1A49D0110460C9C2820EE59E628E3.JPG

now ,
I have some questions ,
how do I get rid of the corrosion?
can I do the honing with the engine block on the car and how complicated is it?
I'm thinking about getting this piston set (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=8066726622&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT) , they don't ship to Israel .. can someonr help me with shipping it to Israel? I'm thinking about shipping it to someone that will accept it , repack it in a smaller package and ship it to me .. ofcourse I'll pay in advance...:rolleyes:
thanks,
Adrian.

p.s.
I also need a complete engine/gear mount kit , any recommandations?

88Accord-DX

12-25-2010, 03:36 PM

It would have been easier to pull the engine & transmission out as an assembly with the amount of work that is needed there. If you want to rebuild that engine, you need to pull it out & send it to a machine shop to have it bored out, to at least .010" if not beyond that specs on any cylinder. Yeah, if you have an inside dial bore gauge & good tools to take all the measurements, you might be able to hone it out if it's within specs. You'll also need to mic or plastigage you main bearings to see how worn they are also.
Typically, they sell pistons,rings & main bearings in standard, .010" , .020" & .030" increments. I would send that block off to have it mic'ed before buying any kits, if you don't have to the right tools. Precise measurements need to be taken for a successful rebuild.

ADRIANFARINA

12-25-2010, 09:49 PM

I have exelent tools , but don't have my own space .. this is why I didn't take the whole engine out but took it out in pieces.

88Accord-DX

12-25-2010, 10:27 PM

In that case, see if you can catch the top on the cylinder bore with your fingernail, if you can, than you have a ring ridge that needs removed. They make ridge ring remover tools. After that, you'll need to see how far the cylinder is at different points along the wall at top bottom & middle to compare out-of-round, taper, & diameter to see if it is specs to hone or it needs bored out. If the ridge isn't to bad, you might be able to hone it out with the right cylinder honing stones.
Your going to spend some time 'going under the car back & forth' a lot rebuilding the engine in the vechicle.

88Accord-DX

12-25-2010, 10:33 PM

(wrong button)

ADRIANFARINA

12-26-2010, 12:10 PM

asuming I disconect everything from the engine block including the gear , can I take it out of the engine bay but leave the gear in ?
my accord is automatic.

88Accord-DX

12-26-2010, 04:01 PM

ADRIANFARINA

12-26-2010, 09:46 PM

should I remove the crank before or after separating the engine block from the trans. ?

88Accord-DX

12-27-2010, 05:22 PM

should I remove the crank before or after separating the engine block from the trans. ?
Seperate the engine front the transmission first. You won't be able to pull the crankshaft out yet, cause the flex-plate is bolted to the end of it. Like I said earlier, remove the bolts to the torque converter & slide it back - then remove the block..

ADRIANFARINA

12-28-2010, 12:03 PM

the converter is fixed with 12 angle bolts? what size?

to day I've closed the hole on the exhaust manifold
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_46120D1BBBD749C99ABB453576074254.JPG

88Accord-DX

12-28-2010, 04:23 PM

the converter is fixed with 12 angle bolts? what size?

I don't know what size bolts they are, cause I have a manual trans-axle. You'll have to size it up with different 12 point wrenches &/or sockets if you can get to it with one..It's probably some odd ball size like 14 or 16 mm. You'll also need a second hand to have someone hold the crankshaft bolt while you break them loose.

Hondamonster

12-30-2010, 07:01 AM

prettty sure the torque converter are 10 or 12 mm, 12 point. and are you doing all this work in the street? pretty impressive if so

ADRIANFARINA

12-30-2010, 09:13 AM

yes , in the street .. :dunno:

ADRIANFARINA

12-31-2010, 05:59 AM

done some more work today.. everything that is bolted to the engine block was disconected.

what is this part?
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_D692B1955C4A4F3E9814ADA5227E1D0D.JPG

what am I missing here? I want to separate the block from the transmission ,
but something holds them together. must be something to do with the clutch, right?
all the connecting bolts and engine/gear mounts are disconected.
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_EC165ED1499C4DB79905F0A4A88A058E.JPG
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_B873784A2FAC49B58C77737471051EEA.JPG
btw , I've loosened the crank .
http://www.3geez.com/forum/images/icons/icon14.gif

integratuner77

12-31-2010, 05:36 PM

I was wondering the exact same thing on that part! I was cleaning my engine bay and came across that, it appears to do nothing.

Are you able to separate the transmission from the engine at all?

88Accord-DX

01-01-2011, 12:18 AM

That is a vibration damper in the red box. Forget about it for now. It is basically nothing but for engineering when the car was made to help on vibration.

You need to equalize the tension on the block even with the transmission to get to break away from the block... . You can't pull the engine off the tranny or it will fall down & your could get hurt or damage the crank/block.! A pry bar is useful in this situation & nice even equalization between the engine & transmission. (I can't stress that enough here) *hint*

Be careful, & don't let the engine hit the ground..... . Use a floor jack or something with a piece of wood so you don't crack or damage anything. Seriously, don't try to pull that block out with nothing under it supporting it!

ADRIANFARINA

01-01-2011, 12:55 AM

88Accord-DX

01-01-2011, 01:07 AM

so basicaly they should separate if there wont be any stress on the shaft?
I'm asking because there is no movement there .. there is no gap to start from..

is the vibration thingy worth replacing? can someone axplain it better? I don't see how it functioning..

Yes, the engine will seperate from the transmission easy when you get the stress off the trans & engine. Once you get that part right, you can wedge something between the block & transmission to seperate & it will slide out.. (unlike other things)

No, the vibration thing is not worth replacing. It is just something there for engineers to make their mathmatical equation right. I could get in to detail on how it works, but this is not the place. It's called NVH equation used in manufacturing. (complicated)

If you got the money & need your noise, vibration & harshness down, waste you money on it.

ADRIANFARINA

01-01-2011, 07:28 AM

wiki (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Noise,_vibration,_and_harshness)

dustinksmith

01-05-2011, 09:44 AM

Did you use a FPR with the Weber? i have one but have yet to install the weber because from what i understand i have to install the FPR. I bought the holly yet i am still unsure about how to install it.

ADRIANFARINA

01-05-2011, 11:29 AM

Webber still not on the car , I'm overhauling the engine now..:beat:

ADRIANFARINA

01-05-2011, 11:38 AM

You should be able too, just remove the bolts to the torque converter from the flex-plate on the transmission & push the torque converter back. Remove transmission bell housing bolts. Engine block weighs around 90-110 lbs stripped out.

Are these the bolts you meant?
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_4EFC2F68539940F0A97EEF46D40E997B.JPG

88Accord-DX

01-05-2011, 04:49 PM

Are these the bolts you meant?

YES, those are the bolts. They look to be about 10-12 mm. SIX point. (might want to re-size that pic!) :beat:

That Wiki link doesn't get into detail about NVH formulas btw.

ADRIANFARINA

01-05-2011, 09:30 PM

wanted to be shure the bolts are visible..:rolleyes:

ADRIANFARINA

01-08-2011, 01:30 PM

sometimes I'm sooooo stupid ! :pc:

after strugling with separating the engine from the trans , I gave up on trying and got them out together...
then I've looked at the starter motor .. looked .. looked again .. and it got to me .. one of the bolts that holds him also connects the trans to the block !!!

:facepalm:

http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_24E1B1026AE54564A300FEABF92EA10F.JPG

http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_3F00E4C4960C4D809664F63FF8036A55.JPG

http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_DA4BB8E1110548E7875381B16E779A01.JPG

http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_8D839AEF3B694E87B15F32FFFEC8A0C6.JPG

http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_5F60B134BDC64202954EDB48CADE672D.JPG

ADRIANFARINA

01-08-2011, 01:31 PM

http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_A77CC08200D74ED9B054FDA1DC22FAB5.JPG

http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_C9A4AF23A1734D8681A376C7D59990A0.JPG

http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_9AA4DB6F4FFD4EB0AB99790B61F57D94.JPG

:D

88Accord-DX

01-08-2011, 07:18 PM

Please don't leave that crankshaft & flex-plate bolted together like that for very long laying horizontal/flat on the ground..... Anytime your leaving the crankshaft or camshaft out for any length of time, lay it up on its end/ straight up (vertical) so it doesn't WARP !....

ADRIANFARINA

01-08-2011, 09:43 PM

yes , I know about that .. it's laying on the cranck with the plate in the air.
I don't have the tool to open the bolts..

ADRIANFARINA

01-10-2011, 10:03 AM

a good engine block degreasing..
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_3C1F7A41505D4AC7B1B6ECE723B4E390.JPG
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_A6E5D74947B947449322B7536ECB2630.JPG
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_B2F089B20C6B430987AFE57FBFCEA20F.JPG

I want to order the socket that opens the bolts that hold the plate to the crank , what size is it?

88Accord-DX

01-10-2011, 04:12 PM

I want to order the socket that opens the bolts that hold the plate to the crank , what size is it?

Snap a pic of it & could tell you what it is.

ADRIANFARINA

01-11-2011, 09:35 PM

its a 17mm "star" socket

88Accord-DX

01-12-2011, 09:12 PM

What kind of motorcycle do you have? Kind of curious now with that tire the engine is laying on.
Drive a few myself.

ADRIANFARINA

01-12-2011, 09:37 PM

I have few motorcycle ..
I ride A very special streetfightered and powered TL1000S ,
I have two 39 Zundapp motorcycles ,
An 83 DerbI Variant,
a 63 Vespa,
two Derbi RS,
An X9 500,
Honda Spazio ,
and just bought me a new 2011 Husqwarna Wr125 :naughty:

ADRIANFARINA

03-02-2011, 01:42 PM

just got this today
http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/188885_10150114898441705_575266704_6531237_8142506 _n.jpg

:flash:

ADRIANFARINA

03-07-2011, 09:20 AM

oversized crank , oversized block , new main bearings and crank bearings , new pistons and rings , block surface was grinded ..

http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_07A79F41DB984C31BF0A30D2DE883F6E.JPG

MessyHonda

03-07-2011, 06:22 PM

looking nice

ADRIANFARINA

03-26-2011, 10:42 AM

more work done today.

I've sealed the transmission with JBweld.
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_BDB4E5CE146443F18875594F6EC98A5A.JPG
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_CC9098A42B38476381857A9CDA31AD99.JPG
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_166E7D98C778484D948199889598D75B.JPG

installed the cranckshaft and pistons
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_6E7A6E1AE1A442F4A3C9FEE57BA3663B.JPG
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/norm_31964E6B84B04DB1BCB563D92CD7B55D.JPG
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/norm_E0FBA67CAA64419A8B8AE3DA3F5ED18E.JPG
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_51A659D199EC463D88F93D6490A215C5.JPG
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/norm_5F5A20F59A854FF4B6567C43BF15A99A.JPG
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/norm_FC6907002EEE49F99C8A8DA5D92FCB2D.JPG

ADRIANFARINA

03-26-2011, 10:43 AM

also , this washer was in the same bag with the front and rear cranck oil seal
where does it go?
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/norm_0B4144EECD8A45DBB4EF4F34EECB4960.JPG

this O-ring is lockated on the bottom of the engine block , do I have it inside the rebuild kit? what size is it?
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/norm_F78E8051DE564B36BE5AC73E2ABD0261.JPG

to be continued..
thanks

MessyHonda

03-27-2011, 10:24 AM

looks like you are rebuilding it the right way...good luck and thanks for the update

ADRIANFARINA

03-27-2011, 01:14 PM

ADRIANFARINA

03-29-2011, 12:18 PM

installed the water and oil pumps today , nothice the impeler on the water pump .. doesn't look like the oem one..
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_A61EBBDEB5AC4210B40175A0F8A89451.JPG
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/norm_AD010E88B9414F9BA95E69737CDB8BF1.JPG
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/norm_FD82DE12EF10415A8AB9F529C800A7D9.JPG

88Accord-DX

03-29-2011, 05:23 PM

Looking good.

I didn't know they sold jb weld in gallon size containers. That shouldn't leak tranny fluid... :thumbup:

ADRIANFARINA

03-29-2011, 09:29 PM

bought the largest I could find , 10 oz I think.

forrest89sei

03-29-2011, 09:42 PM

Looks like your doing it Right! and on the street, has to be fun to work on!

The only thing that puzzles me is the JB Weld on the gearbox? doesn't using the JB Weld like you did on the center of it, render it unrebuildable? since you wouldn't be able to open it?

ADRIANFARINA

03-30-2011, 06:58 AM

yes , it wont be easy opening it...:nervous:

ADRIANFARINA

03-30-2011, 11:58 AM

todays progress..

good clean to many parts
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_8CDF1F706FDF4BAA912691080246838B.JPG

water pump pulley
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_DD35C8086B5A47089193ED328CCA0158.JPG

cleaned the surface again
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_0EBAA9C74FE74F94839600F12BA6D4C6.JPG

head gasket , dowels , oil jet
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_2ACA44BD965C4F7AB4E71515C0560702.JPG

rebuilded head
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_EFD641782B6E46259BC189E264631E1B.JPG

installed the head
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_B0B8418911484460B41A0C1790CD376B.JPG

oil filter base
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_CBD5134AF9A64222B8D78397908F303A.JPG

oil separator
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_CBB6F8187FEF466DB3B45B37955C0442.JPG

to be continued...:cool:

88Accord-DX

04-01-2011, 06:30 PM

What size pistons did you end up getting & did you plastigage your new bearings on the rods & crankshaft after you installed it all to make sure it's in tolerance?

ADRIANFARINA

04-01-2011, 11:20 PM

bought everything oversized.
the main and cranck bearings are +10.
the pistons are 0.020" oversize.
everything was machined and checked at the shop.
what's stoping my progress right now is the fact that I don't have new engine/transmission mounts.

Demon1024

04-01-2011, 11:42 PM

resizing the oil jet is recommended while you "had" it apart.

Very nice work btw!

ADRIANFARINA

04-02-2011, 12:43 PM

Please explain the resizing thing ..

thanks , btw..

Demon1024

04-14-2011, 10:19 PM

the jet in the head should be drilled out to be a bit larger. Lostforawhile knows more than i do about it. I can't remember the size bit i used now

ADRIANFARINA

04-15-2011, 07:12 PM

is it a must? I didn't change the engine (beside of the small boring thing)..I'm asking because its closed..

ADRIANFARINA

04-24-2011, 12:57 PM

inlet and outlet manifolds installed , oil sump , engine mounts brackets and other hardware , oil filter ,thermostat housing ... basicaly the engine is closed , tomorrow I'll try and put it in the engine bay ...

http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_B598B5195B0E4849BC28AAFB9EBAE66A.JPG
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_EBEAE41CF7684C56AF502F24BDE78548.JPG
here the camera ran out of batteries :slap:

integratuner77

04-26-2011, 04:52 PM

Looking good! Looking forward to it mounted up in the engine bay.

ADRIANFARINA

04-26-2011, 08:26 PM

me to ...

this weekend http://www.3geez.com/forum/images/icons/icon10.gif

ADRIANFARINA

05-10-2011, 11:46 AM

Finaly , the engine is in the car !
I made this tool to help me load the engine

http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/norm_DB4B3F98E4AF482784A11889BFB147CA.JPG

http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/norm_7B4124A10C9F49AF9AA0006B49ABA10E.JPG

http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/norm_7EFF694DC1BB478FBB1B4865242673EF.JPG

brought the engine to the car on the scooter...

http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/norm_2C198E169C014F31B951506AE4B3575E.JPG

my friend helped me .. damn this engine is heavy..

http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/norm_ED93E141062240AE85894F86011481AC.JPG

http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_3FEC83EB64534FE2BFB956FB74223B81.JPG

stay tuned..

ADRIANFARINA

05-10-2011, 12:26 PM

btw ,
today is Israels 63 indipendence day !!

http://freecodesource.com/myspace-graphics/images_db/474/prod_668_18148.gif

TotaledTL

05-22-2011, 01:55 PM

What's the status- any updates?

ADRIANFARINA

05-22-2011, 08:19 PM

did the timing but lost the crankshafts woodruf key.. waiting for a new one .

ADRIANFARINA

05-23-2011, 11:51 AM

today:
installed the alternator and it's belt.
installed the torque converter and plate.

ADRIANFARINA

05-28-2011, 05:01 AM

finished the right side today , belts , alternator , air condition , steering pump , water pump .

http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_E66F0F1252BD425A94CAE668D58F1481.JPG

http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_FF88608FA5EB47EA9AFD3538A7659F5A.JPG

http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_9B062B7943ED4FE3B7A508F5EC59D7AE.JPG

http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_3699327306AC4443AEC6FC3BE52D83CE.JPG

t used to have a sunroof.. probably..

http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_7EF2DF0495164A5CAE6AADC41FABBFF1.JPG

next step is to install the tran. after I'll replace the oil retainers of it.

MessyHonda

05-28-2011, 06:14 PM

hatch is starting to look like a car again. cant wait till its running

ADRIANFARINA

05-29-2011, 12:02 PM

replaced the old cheap steering wheel

http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_61F0D38B68F24521A8465C1428EC8358.JPG

with a new cheap steering wheel with a deep design that I like

http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_C448F6CE6E16498D83A66426D256C99D.JPG

http://www.3geez.com/forum/images/smilies/dunno.gif

ADRIANFARINA

06-08-2011, 11:21 AM

the trans nightmare is finaly behind me...

installed new oil retainers
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_B531A5E85DEB4D31BF16EF8799CF8560.JPG
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_1C7F59F881E8479499A1F6A069B06822.JPG

wasn't easy to install it alone , installed it from under the car by pillung it up and lowering the left side of the engine

http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_AF8FD10E0E17446A85BA99D5C2049175.JPG]
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_0C96C450A1CC42C784D4BBA2E0359348.JPG
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_2E1E0ABDA18A47089D7E54119F2F039D.JPG
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_9C61662BF4834F9CBADF7D7AFEC7CA4B.JPG

now I need to install the water hoses and fill the water system .. fill the engine and trans with oil , connect the engine wire harness... and then... back to the carburator... where it all started...http://www.3geez.com/forum/images/smilies/naughty.gif

integratuner77

06-09-2011, 10:06 AM

Looking good! getting close now

ADRIANFARINA

06-10-2011, 08:56 AM

I want to order coolant hoses and Ebay is full of 3gees hoses.
how do I know wich to choose?

ADRIANFARINA

06-19-2011, 12:33 PM

closed the transmission oil lines and filled it with oil.
installed the dist. and wires.
installed the thermostat .
because I couldn't get original water hoses , I bought long hoses and made them fit .. and filled the cooling system.
now , I need to install the webber and buy a new battery.

http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_B3F49E2152D84FF888B55089AC63ACC0.JPG

ADRIANFARINA

06-20-2011, 12:30 PM

no one likes my thread anymore... :(

integratuner77

06-20-2011, 02:14 PM

Awesome! Its looking really good! Let me know if you have any questions on the weber install, I should be able to help out there.

88Accord-DX

06-20-2011, 03:34 PM

Looking good!
I'm to spoiled with lifts, air tools, cherry pickers, engine stands to even try to attempt working on one in a street with that amount of work. Mad props for your devotion there....

ADRIANFARINA

06-20-2011, 08:27 PM

thanks

ADRIANFARINA

06-24-2011, 11:18 PM

Today ... carburator.. http://forums.usms.org/images/smilies/dedhorse.gif

ADRIANFARINA

06-25-2011, 01:52 PM

started with pluging the holes that aren't needed anymore
http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg192/scaled.php?server=192&filename=20110625113502.jpg&res=medium

base gasket
http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg809/scaled.php?server=809&filename=20110625114615.jpg&res=medium

adapter #1
http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg851/scaled.php?server=851&filename=20110625114812.jpg&res=medium

second gasket + adapter #2 + studs
http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg828/scaled.php?server=828&filename=20110625115854.jpg&res=medium

carb gasket
http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg217/scaled.php?server=217&filename=20110625120140.jpg&res=medium

carb is on
http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg6/scaled.php?server=6&filename=20110625120805.jpg&res=medium

filter base gasket
http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg803/scaled.php?server=803&filename=20110625120958.jpg&res=medium

filter base
http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg121/scaled.php?server=121&filename=20110625122514.jpg&res=medium

filter
http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg189/scaled.php?server=189&filename=20110625122750.jpg&res=medium

DONE !!

http://img708.imageshack.us/img708/6639/20110625122805.jpg

ADRIANFARINA

06-25-2011, 02:10 PM

now to the linkage issue:

found in my toolbox this aluminium spacer , exact fit!
http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg202/scaled.php?server=202&filename=20110625141935.jpg&res=medium

need to cut this cable end
http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg641/scaled.php?server=641&filename=20110625142057.jpg&res=medium
http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg59/scaled.php?server=59&filename=20110625142120.jpg&res=medium

and insert it through the screw that goes through the linkage
http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg829/scaled.php?server=829&filename=20110625142813.jpg&res=medium

and then...
http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg121/scaled.php?server=121&filename=20110625145505.jpg&res=medium

I drilled a hole through the cable bracket
http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg20/scaled.php?server=20&filename=20110625145550.jpg&res=medium

then mounted these two
http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg833/scaled.php?server=833&filename=20110625151507.jpg&res=medium

and this small bastard
http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg3/scaled.php?server=3&filename=20110625152838.jpg&res=medium

and the spring
http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg593/scaled.php?server=593&filename=20110625152851.jpg&res=medium

works exelent!!

ADRIANFARINA

06-25-2011, 02:36 PM

now to the questions

http://img695.imageshack.us/img695/6382/20110625155041.jpg

http://img36.imageshack.us/img36/6524/20110625155851.jpg

http://img577.imageshack.us/img577/1036/20110625161003.jpg

http://img823.imageshack.us/img823/9946/20110625161025.jpg

http://img820.imageshack.us/img820/7682/20110625161239.jpg

also, to wich wire do I connect the electric choke on the carb?
thanks!!

turabaka

06-25-2011, 10:35 PM

The vacuum advance port can go to the vac advance on the dizzy or you can just leave it capped, and run vacuum from another port on the intake.

The black sensor on the top of the thermostat housing can be left as is, although you don't even need to bother with capping those ports.

Same thing for the black and white sensors on the back of the intake manifold. you can just leave them as is since they don't do anything anymore.

All of the extra wiring harness bits and vacuum connectors on the drivers side can be either entirely removed, or just tucked out of the way. They also no longer go to anything useful.

edit: forgot to answer the choke question. The choke wire needs to be hooked into a 12 volt circuit that comes on when the ignition is turned on.

ADRIANFARINA

06-26-2011, 10:00 AM

But the two vacoom ports from the dizzy go to the back of the intake manifold , should I add the one on the carb to the same line?

turabaka

06-26-2011, 03:55 PM

But the two vacoom ports from the dizzy go to the back of the intake manifold , should I add the one on the carb to the same line?

no. It's fine to leave it like you already have it. You don't even need to use both ports on the dizzy. The one closest to the front of the car can be left unplugged.

TotaledTL

06-26-2011, 07:17 PM

The vacuum advance port can go to the vac advance on the dizzy or you can just leave it capped, and run vacuum from another port on the intake...

I thought that vac. adv. port from the distributor needs to go to constant (manifold) vac. to provide advance at idle- is that not correct??

Also you can reverse the fuel input barb w/ the plug so the fuel line to the carb will have a more natural path.

turabaka

06-26-2011, 07:39 PM

I thought that vac. adv. port from the distributor needs to go to constant (manifold) vac. to provide advance at idle- is that not correct??

Also you can reverse the fuel input barb w/ the plug so the fuel line to the carb will have a more natural path.

That would make sense. I've never tried to run vacuum from the carb's vacuum port before, so I don't know how that would affect the advance on the dizzy negatively. Probably best to just draw is straight from the manifold like you're saying.

ADRIANFARINA

06-26-2011, 08:38 PM

ot me confused here.. what should I do with the ports on the dizzy , the one on the carb and the one on the back of carb?
what about the fuel input?

turabaka

06-26-2011, 08:41 PM

ot me confused here.. what should I do with the ports on the dizzy , the one on the carb and the one on the back of carb?
what about the fuel input?

Just hook up the first vac port on the dizzy up to manifold vacuum and leave the port on the dizzy closest to the front of the car unplugged.

TotaledTL

06-27-2011, 03:55 AM

Just hook up the first vac port on the dizzy up to manifold vacuum and leave the port on the dizzy closest to the front of the car unplugged.

That's what I did. The one nearest the distrib. I connected to man. vac. Had to salvage vac. "adapter" from some of the discarded stock crapola to use to adapt. it as I didn't see a port that small on the manifold to use.

Was there a quest. on the fuel input?

ADRIANFARINA

06-27-2011, 08:12 AM

is there a reason to leave it unpluged? i preffer putting a plug on .. cleaner look.

TotaledTL

06-27-2011, 08:19 AM

is there a reason to leave it unpluged? i preffer putting a plug on .. cleaner look.

"it"... you mean the unused distrib. vac. port? If so then yes you can plug or cap it for a cleaner look. I did also.

ADRIANFARINA

06-27-2011, 09:33 AM

exelent!

to another thing , today I made a replacement tube for the PCV valve.
I couldn't find an oem shaped tube to go from the metal box to the valve so I decided to make an adaptor here it is.
took an SS pipe and used a small piece of it , also cut the original PCV valve ( also was curious to see why it doesn't work (spring was broken)) and used a metal spacer/washer to center everything out.

http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/norm_FF3192D2239147258CC31522E383A9B5.JPG
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/norm_1E715F48678E4CCBA3F6247AAC756E4B.JPG
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/norm_3014459D36EC4F61A93759782F931524.JPG

TotaledTL

06-27-2011, 11:30 AM

Metal box? I thought it just looped in a "u" shape back to the man.?

ADRIANFARINA

06-27-2011, 11:45 AM

what I'll have now will be : metal box=>hose=>adaptor=>hose=>pcv valve=>hose=>manifold.

turabaka

06-27-2011, 11:46 AM

Metal box? I thought it just looped in a "u" shape back to the man.?

no. It goes from the manifold to an oil separator on the back of the block.

MrSamson

06-27-2011, 04:08 PM

Looks good!

ADRIANFARINA

06-27-2011, 08:17 PM

thanks

ADRIANFARINA

07-04-2011, 09:51 AM

used the other way inlet fuel line..
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/norm_FC1985795AC94E729554AB800839B732.JPG
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/norm_E9865EAA112441BE83FDEA614295E478.JPG

connected the fuel line and filter
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_C949800A0F1F4B0F9B6598A505158EE7.JPG

had to rerute the crank breather and to connect it to the vacoom port on the manifolds side
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_5CB38879C6BE421A9F911A2C2455C01B.JPG

TotaledTL

07-04-2011, 01:02 PM

Might need a fuel press. regulator. Ended up putting one on mine along w/ adjusting the float.

ADRIANFARINA

07-04-2011, 08:44 PM

I remember reading in other posts that a pressure regulator isnt necesary ..
http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=75157&highlight=pressure

btw ,
the pcv valve installed the right way ? air goes up , not down , right?

TotaledTL

07-05-2011, 07:54 AM

I read that also. However after driving approx. 200 mi. w/out one I began experiencing severe flooding; I then installed a regulator & adjusted the float to get it to run again. I mentioned it in the event you experience problems. Good luck, you deserve it.

ADRIANFARINA

07-06-2011, 10:42 AM

finaly fixed the vacuum lines
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_630F2FF3FC7A4C689E7CDC685C1E8F71.JPG

then I've started with replacing the master brake cylinder , it was leaking

http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/norm_D02C8B2907A741098200836C64F1EF55.JPG
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/norm_7E2DCD02307B46959231659EC37D104B.JPG
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/norm_76A52DD01B4943D89E4EF157D82C4414.JPG
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/norm_1170A73396954A12A952DA96F34815AD.JPG

ADRIANFARINA

07-06-2011, 10:44 AM

the new one , what to the two metal balls do?
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_CA6C500E249140F499B2AA6F9A596A8A.JPG
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/norm_ACB8268C23FE4F619C829AB419902DB7.JPG

look what the barbarians did , they didn't find the right gasket so the filled it with rtv
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/norm_7B7A1F50FE774788BFDCDA7E26696FC7.JPG
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_ADD8B881B52544C69D00FD44A1DFE9D8.JPG
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_93BFDF4CDAD2485494EC8DEC16414671.JPG
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/norm_D03AE0CA47E6434097F8B46DEEB53ACE.JPG
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_3748EC9B3881460FA410D1539E211476.JPG

ADRIANFARINA

07-07-2011, 09:25 AM

4000 views !!!

ADRIANFARINA

07-09-2011, 10:25 AM

more work

couldn't find the right bolts to close the water holes on the manifold .. so I cut the sensors like a barbarian..
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_61C90FC1D0FC44199C051A657985296F.JPG

started to work on the front suspention
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/norm_3531946FF0D647278DDCA54140F7C1E6.JPG
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_90B8E788CC0D40009945A790D451DD02.JPG
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_C1D634D43A884AB299D4CBDCE073728F.JPG
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/norm_FBAC65CB1F024A648DC898D8155CAEFC.JPG

this is part of the stuff that I plan on installing
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_0C5708519A4442289E4D748581F3492D.JPG
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/norm_E83CCDE7C18841B2B70C19A69FBCA147.JPG
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_61A8E6A4E61841D2B031EFECB0B9ADA0.JPG

ADRIANFARINA

07-10-2011, 02:09 PM

everybody went to sleep on this forum?

started replacing the front wheel bearings
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/norm_BD75C14D2F03423FBD8C2CE6DF31924E.JPG
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_51095E883BB6437993D3A485C38BEC61.JPG
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/norm_366A88EB7A704AF386F56B28715CC5CC.JPG
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_9A71A9BC05234C2DAC6D0246BF5DBCE9.JPG

integratuner77

07-16-2011, 07:01 AM

Good work! I just did my wheel bearing yesterday as well as lower ball joint. Your projects turning into a complete overhaul. It will be so nice to drive it again soon.

ADRIANFARINA

07-17-2011, 09:20 AM

thanks !!
it will also be nice if someone moves this thread to the "project forum"...

TotaledTL

07-18-2011, 07:26 AM

I wish I had the time/$$/intiative/skill/etc., etc. to do all that....

ADRIANFARINA

07-18-2011, 08:02 AM

can't argue about the money, but time? everybody has it.. sometimes I work on the car at 01:00am.. after everybody sleeps .. I have a four months baby girl , full time job , in the project of buildg a new house and studying for my second degree.. what I mean is , that you are responsible of what you do with your time. :)

gtpilot

07-18-2011, 10:59 AM

...what I mean is , that you are responsible of what you do with your time. :)

D'OH! I wish I could convince my Mother-in-Law, my Wife and my Step-daughter that small nugget of reality...I work a 60 hour gig to support all of them (including two grand kids and four dogs) and I find time to work on the house, build racecars and street cars and they all bitch about not having any time! And none of them work!?!? ...end of rant...

I have a 87 CRX that I bought brand new and I pretty much rebuild every three or four years - this last time was a D16A1 transplant and suspension upgrade. I got the motor running and tuned NA and collected all the parts for a turbo install plus the shocks/torsion bars/springs, MUGEN body kit and poly bushings to get it looking new again. Refinished one of the seats (the important one, the driver seat...don't need no stinking passenger seat, it adds useless weight!) and have started on the body work thus far, I'll get the body kit hung and repainted and suspension complete before winter...crap - forgot that I need to tear down one of my transmissions to put in the Torsen diff before I install the turbo.

Good to see another person go the extra mile and get into a rebuild!

Kirk

ADRIANFARINA

07-18-2011, 11:38 AM

About the mother in law .. just wait ;)

ADRIANFARINA

07-19-2011, 02:03 PM

replaced the wheel bearings , lower ball joints and the control arms bushings into poly ones , all of this wasn't easy at all !!
the inside of the bearings remained on the hub , so I had to inprovise
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/norm_53B50E280B8045A9B7AD110C37B8416D.JPG

this didn't work
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/norm_5D8B45789C9A436A9AD49F87765FC2B0.JPG

this did
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/norm_164FB440815343108E906C8F919BAD8A.JPG
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/norm_043E0F6FA50E44769480F21EE992911D.JPG

the arms gave me a lot of trouble , the bushings were really stuck , I had to heat them and press the rubber out , only after the rubber was out I managed to take the metal tube out
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_ABA1555D6EF14B5CBEBF8162D99F0E0D.JPG
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/norm_52833FCCA56F435D9A94423BC918BFBF.JPG

more tomorrow.. I hope

gtpilot

07-19-2011, 03:13 PM

I have had to take a hack saw blade to a frozen inner race a time or two - cut a nice stress line down into the race and then took a cold chisel and a swing press to bear on the situation and cracked the race in half...learned that trick out of necessity from a wheel bearing giving up on me while I was driving and having to do the repair on the side of the road!

Kirk

ADRIANFARINA

07-19-2011, 08:34 PM

my trick looks easier ;)

MrSamson

07-19-2011, 10:21 PM

When you going to fire this up?

I JUST completed this Weber 32/36 swap and when I can find the time I am going to put everything out there because i learned a ton via thread on here.

Really woke up the car tho, and that is WITHOUT any fine tuning...just bolted on and off to play.

I did tho have a couple of mods I did myself but the bulk of swap was based off of how tos and the collection of related threads.

Fun stuff!

ADRIANFARINA

07-20-2011, 09:13 AM

I will fire it up when I'll finish the suspention.
I'm waiting for the front axles to arrive from the US the lower motor mount and the cooling hoses.
then install everything on the front and rear including shocks and lowering springs.
have some interior stuff to mount , thinking of changing the tires from 205.55.15 to 205.50.15
at the end paint.

integratuner77

08-23-2011, 04:42 AM

Did this thread die? I keep checking back for updates, but there hasn't been any in a while.

ADRIANFARINA

08-23-2011, 06:27 AM

"I'm not dead ... I'm not dead..!! " (by Monty Python).
I'm waiting for large suspension parts to arrive from the US to Israel.

but also , I can't upload pictures straight to the 3GEEZ forum .. I have to upload them to another forum and copy paste to here... weird. also this forum is really really slowwww..

integratuner77

08-25-2011, 04:34 AM

Got ya, well I'm still following if it matters. I'm still curious to see how this project turns out. Best of luck!

ADRIANFARINA

08-25-2011, 05:34 AM

thanks!!!

ADRIANFARINA

09-04-2011, 10:55 PM

got these today

http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_C466AF78411142229FF2ED66373B0280.JPG

integratuner77

09-05-2011, 04:58 PM

Nice! Finally! lol

ADRIANFARINA

09-05-2011, 08:41 PM

waiting for the rear hubs now..

ADRIANFARINA

09-13-2011, 11:00 AM

done with the front suspention

http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/norm_EE125382DDFF441DBC2BDDC8A085D15F.JPG
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/norm_9AF7596A82AA45168D85D86FD036F29B.JPG
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/norm_14A7CC01640B4AC88C1BC82F56AD4851.JPG
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/norm_EAEB721A7B4A4A1FA478FF7A07251E57.JPG
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/norm_C621CC44669F434F835490EB4AD9C28B.JPG
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_44984DD9AC9A4C83AEF49DC1183414DB.JPG
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_7D3E64D6CF804112985B12422FCBDC05.JPG
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_E3E5A3ABB3FC4EDD98851CA0B72003CB.JPG
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_1FC4B6D634044D45BA4AAD3FCB7AB65F.JPG
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_F169E0B52BFC45F99AA5E794EA0F27BB.JPG

ADRIANFARINA

09-13-2011, 11:01 AM

http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_154974EEE511453C841846A1FB5F3C17.JPG
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_AE4C9249E88C48748E928D9BD710BE47.JPG
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_4E960A344F5343DF8F40BF751CB9A309.JPG

ADRIANFARINA

09-13-2011, 11:03 AM

btw ...

I've started it up today .. sounds exelent !

http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_EB4DAE24F1204322BE68FB15A62AB744.JPG

86dxhatch

09-13-2011, 05:51 PM

Looking good man! :cheers: Went from just a Weber swap, to a whole other level!! What kind of shocks springs are those?

Seeing those new poly bushings gives me some inspiration to get my front suspension done!!

I take it you had to buy those smaller end-link bushings cause the bolt was too short?

What was the part # for the bushings with the bolt? Looks like a good setup for end-links.:thumbup:

ADRIANFARINA

09-13-2011, 08:27 PM

what are those end links you are reffering to?
I bought all the poly bushings through Ebay .

now I need to do the rear suspention also , waiting for the rear hubs to arrive .. I already got the other parts.

ADRIANFARINA

09-13-2011, 08:34 PM

from all these wires that come out of these three plugs , I've used only three wires , the water temp , the oil temp and the ignition that goes to the solenoid.

can I get rid/ cut all the plugs I won't use?
I want to cut the plugs themselves and leave only the above three wires and clean up the engine compartment.

http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_7AB105A3A152472284CA835B69324EFF.JPG
http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_C54D5C8B4E5B4710BC975D775A6C117D.JPG

these three plugs end here

http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/orig_CF393C0A115D4EFAB79512A9A71F00D3.JPG

thanks

ADRIANFARINA

09-15-2011, 06:23 AM

no one knows about the wires?

ADRIANFARINA

09-18-2011, 08:30 PM

everyone gave up on this thread?

This is what happened to the starter motor

http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/norm_6E4181ED413F48A7AD163997BAF5BDEB.JPG

wich wire do I connect to the carburator?

http://www.pic.co.il/Files/A389AD0CCF05407982435B032041DED6/norm_2EF363C3176A481E8A6CFC3BF5F49CCE.JPG

ADRIANFARINA

09-21-2011, 06:21 AM

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rUAchTFhqWM

integratuner77

09-22-2011, 05:33 PM

Excellent work!

You just need a wire that goes +12V with the ignition on. It should be the wire that was connected to the stock choke.

ADRIANFARINA

09-22-2011, 08:18 PM

I can't remember which one was it , and I can't find it in the wiring diagram.

also ,
do I have an oil pressure sensor?

integratuner77

10-03-2011, 06:23 AM

Just bust out a multimeter and find a wire that goes to +12 when the key is turned to the ACC position.

Yes you should have an "oil pressure sensor" the reason I put it in quotes is bc its just a dummy sensor. If the oil pressure drops below 10 psi it will turn a light on for low oil pressure. It however will not read the actual oil pressure at all times.

ADRIANFARINA

10-03-2011, 11:46 AM

it's the one on the oil filter base , right?

integratuner77

10-04-2011, 04:39 AM

I cant remember exactly where it is, but it should be on the back of the block somewhere.

ADRIANFARINA

10-14-2011, 11:03 AM

almost finished rebuildin an 86 Accord Hatchback .. but then got stuck with a no charging problem. I made a new harness in the engine bay and when I started plugin it the main POSITIVE from the fuse box that goes to the alternator touched the NEGATIVE on the baterry and blew the main 50W . I woder if it damaged something related to the alternator..

mtaylor

10-24-2011, 03:31 PM

ADRIANFARINA

10-24-2011, 09:15 PM

I think there is a problem with the alternator , it's charging between 12.9-13.4

mtaylor

10-25-2011, 10:27 AM

the voltage will fluctuate based on your rpm.
you may want to check if the voltage regulator is still good.

ADRIANFARINA

10-25-2011, 09:20 PM

How do I check it? it's inside the alternator..

mtaylor

10-26-2011, 07:24 AM

Hook up the voltmeter to the + an - of the battery, turn on the car, at idle you should have 12 - 13V.
Push the gas and get the rpm up to about 2000, you should have closer to 14 - 14.5V.
Get the rpm up to 3-4000 you should see the voltage does not go past 14-14.5V, if it going higher, the regulator is toast.

When my alternator was getting old and warm out, it would still produce voltage close to 14V, but as soon as you load it (turn on your headlights, press your brakes, radio...) the voltage would drop to 11 - 12V.