fuse keeps popping... help me please

[1987AccordLx-i]

can anyone tell me what EXACT components are on fuse number 2 on the under dash fuse box? it keeps blowing and i tried replacing the turn signal switch.. still blows... took off the clock and reverse lights and its still blowing... is there something im missing? if i dont get an answer within the next hour and a half im just going to buy a new fuse box...

[charliekuney]

Wrong fuse? Bad ground? The cover for both fuse/relay covers tell you what components they go to.

[1987AccordLx-i]

Wrong fuse? Bad ground? The cover for both fuse/relay covers tell you what components they go to.

i checked them and i disconnected all the components but still it blows... im getting really frustrated... i guess ill have to search for grounds

[car6289]

Under dash fuse 2. 10 Amp. Yellow wire from fuse box. I'm not sure which of the three connectors at the fuse box contains this yellow wire. The yellow wire powers the following: Safety indicator, shift lever position indicator (auto trans only), clock, fuel guage, coolant temp gauge, tachometer, back-up lights, turn signal relay/lights, integrated control unit, warning lights (brake, low fuel, seat belt, oil pressure, PGM-FI), cruise control indicator light dimming circuit, automatic seat belt control unit (if equipped), shift lock solenoid (auto trans only).

[1987AccordLx-i]

Under dash fuse 2. 10 Amp. Yellow wire from fuse box. I'm not sure which of the three connectors at the fuse box contains this yellow wire. The yellow wire powers the following: Safety indicator, shift lever position indicator (auto trans only), clock, fuel guage, coolant temp gauge, tachometer, back-up lights, turn signal relay/lights, integrated control unit, warning lights (brake, low fuel, seat belt, oil pressure, PGM-FI), cruise control indicator light dimming circuit, automatic seat belt control unit (if equipped), shift lock solenoid (auto trans only).

would you know what wires are on this circuit on the backside of the panel? i want to trace them and find opens or grounds

EDIT: also would you know if its a solid yellow color? i found a couple that are yellow/other color and yellow with a silver stripe every few inches... one more thing, if possible does anyone have a diagram for this circuit?

[1987AccordLx-i]

ok i did some testing and on the center connection on the back of the fuse panel im getting power... one of them is dead...

on the left connection (looking at the fuse side) im getting (k) and (m) ohms... is this normal?

on the right connection (looking at the fuse side) im getting close to 0 ohms... specifically like .2 ohms to about 2.5 ohms... hope this info helps anyone think about whats happening with my car

[Civic Accord Honda]

if its on the same circut as reverse lights unplug it from the trans and tape off hte wires then try just removing the bulbs wont help lol, normaly thoses wires get old a brittle and crack then ground out... happend to every honda ive worked on in the past 4 years lol

[car6289]

EDIT: also would you know if its a solid yellow color? i found a couple that are yellow/other color and yellow with a silver stripe every few inches... one more thing, if possible does anyone have a diagram for this circuit?[/QUOTE]

Wire is solid yellow with no colour stripe. There are silver spots at random intervals along the wire.

[Oldblueaccord]

ok i did some testing and on the center connection on the back of the fuse panel im getting power... one of them is dead...

on the left connection (looking at the fuse side) im getting (k) and (m) ohms... is this normal?

on the right connection (looking at the fuse side) im getting close to 0 ohms... specifically like .2 ohms to about 2.5 ohms... hope this info helps anyone think about whats happening with my car


unhook the battery if your testing for a short in a wire. Touch your leads together and see what the meter does. Thats a short. A Lot of them beep if you set it to continuity.

I think you need to disconnect everything on that circuit first since the fuse blowing is a short and go from there.


wp

[car6289]

ok i did some testing and on the center connection on the back of the fuse panel im getting power... one of them is dead...

on the left connection (looking at the fuse side) im getting (k) and (m) ohms... is this normal?

on the right connection (looking at the fuse side) im getting close to 0 ohms... specifically like .2 ohms to about 2.5 ohms... hope this info helps anyone think about whats happening with my car

As Oldblueaccord said never do resistance checks (open circuit or short circuit) with battery connected, you'll fry your multimeter and possibly yourself or the things you are testing.:thumbdn:

You need not buy a new fuse panel as the fuse is just doing it's job of protecting the wires in it's circuit from overheating and possibly starting a fire.

What the KΩ and MΩ are is kilo-ohms (1000's of ohms) and megaohms (1,000,000's of ohms). FYI: 1.200 Ω is 1.2 ohms (low); 1.200 KΩ is 1200 ohms; 1.200 MΩ is 1,2000,000 ohms (high). Higher is better, as in infinite or high MΩ's, when looking for short circuits. Without the K or M before the Ω your meter is probably reading just straight up Ω's.
Simply put: low resistance = short/completed circuit. high resistance = open circuit.

[1987AccordLx-i]

ok gentlemen... ive found the problem.. it was grounding on the reverse light circuit... the wires were grounding on the clutch cable bracket... but now my check engine is on for map sensor... but the car still runs normal... any ideas?