Got a few problems I could use some help with.

[Honda_Hobby]

Ok so I have an 89 dx coupe. It's great car but there r few things that I would like adress before winter comes. So, first when the car sits for more then 6 hours when I start it the engine dies after 20 seconds, then starts right up and dies again. However afterwards after some cranking it starts and runs fine. Second when I step on the brakes engine rpms start dropping and it begins to choke, the same thing happens when I turn the headlights on at idle. Cruising on the highway is fine I'm only having these problems at idle. The car has 93k miles with rebuilt alternator, new belts, new battery, new fuel filter, new spark plugs, new distributor cap and rotor, new master brake cylinder. All this installed within last 8k mikes. Anybody have any suggestions where I should start? Any advice would be appreciated.

[kentwat]

As a start I'd check the vacuum lines around and going to the brake booster and see if you can find any leaks.

[Honda_Hobby]

I checked all the vacuum lines and they all look none r showing any cracks or leakage. Anything else i should check before i take it to a mechanic and spend more money then the car is worth

[charliekuney]

Well, the sitting-starting-dying thing happened when I had no gas in my LX-i...

[Honda_Hobby]

Well, the sitting-starting-dying thing happened when I had no gas in my LX-i...

Dont worry its got plenty of gas. I use premium for the past 8k miles I don't know if that had anything to with it. With premium it just rides so much better I can't resist filling up with it.

[car6289]

DX should mean carb, unless you've swapped to FI.

FYI there are 2 fuel filters, one by left rear tire, the other under hood by the wiper motor.

Poor cold starting:
Check automatic choke and fast idle system for proper operation. Cold idle should be 2000 to 3000 rpm.
Warm idle should be 700 to 850 rpm, transmission type dependent.

Idle drop off with electrical load (headlights and/or brake lights):
If your idle is too low to begin with loading up the alternator just exacerbates the problem
Check alternator belt tension and wiring connections for security, check for bad ground connections (loose, corroded, broken etc.)

[Honda_Hobby]

DX should mean carb, unless you've swapped to FI.

FYI there are 2 fuel filters, one by left rear tire, the other under hood by the wiper motor.

Poor cold starting:
Check automatic choke and fast idle system for proper operation. Cold idle should be 2000 to 3000 rpm.
Warm idle should be 700 to 850 rpm, transmission type dependent.

Idle drop off with electrical load (headlights and/or brake lights):
If your idle is too low to begin with loading up the alternator just exacerbates the problem
Check alternator belt tension and wiring connections for security, check for bad ground connections (loose, corroded, broken etc.)
It's carbed with manual transmission. Cold idle is between 2-3k once it warms up it idles close to 1k. I checked alternator belts it's fine as are other belts except power steering pump I need to tighten that. As to fuel filter I replaced the one in the engine bay but not the one in the rear that one is a tricky one. When I get my next oil change done I'll do that one on the lift. I was thinking about getting a weber carb but don't know if that will affect emissions. They are really uptight about that in NYC, I really want to get rid of all those vacuum lines. Anybody know if weber messes up emissions and how is it in the winter time? It gets pretty cold up here and I haven't owned this car in the cold season so I don't know how it's gonna behave itself. Also today it developed a new problem, when you step on the brakes harder the steering wheel starts shake rather violently. I suspect the rotors but when I changed brake pads few weeks ago they were fine so maybe it's something else. Any ideas?

[charliekuney]

I was thinking about getting a weber carb but don't know if that will affect emissions. They are really uptight about that in NYC, I really want to get rid of all those vacuum lines. Anybody know if weber messes up emissions and how is it in the winter time? It gets pretty cold up here and I haven't owned this car in the cold season so I don't know how it's gonna behave itself. Also today it developed a new problem, when you step on the brakes harder the steering wheel starts shake rather violently. I suspect the rotors but when I changed brake pads few weeks ago they were fine so maybe it's something else. Any ideas?

itzdave has dual Weber's here in Washington. They haven't gone through a winter yet, but I don't think he's about to swap them out every other season. Emissions-wise, I'm not sure.

As for the steering: Alignment?

[Honda_Hobby]

Ok I was just trying fix the window regulator after getting a new one (both manual) and some messed up all the holes to where you screw the regulator too. My only option now is to use the power regulator holes and a motor with regulator. My question is has anyone converted their manual windows to power ? If so did you have to run wiring or was it already present in the door? I know this may sound a little dumb but I can get all the parts to do I was just wondering if I need to run wires, seeing as pretty much everything else is prewired (ex: no rear speakers but wires are there). If anyone could enlighten me I'd appreciate.

[InAccordance]

it's just starting to cool down here and the weber in mine is already giving me hell.... but for me its just jet sizes, just a little too big.

[charliekuney]

I think all models are wired for all power options.

[Honda_Hobby]

I think all models are wired for all power options.

Yeah I think so too but my question is if I get a window regulator with motor and a relay for the fuse box in the engine bay would that be essentially a plug and play operation? I'm not really proficient in electrical circutry. I wanna go next Friday to a junkyard and get everything so if anyone can shed some light on the situation I'd appreciate it. Also I want to put window switch where sunroof switch supposed to be maybe even use it because they ain't got my color interior in PA.

[Dr_Snooz]

some messed up all the holes to where you screw the regulator too.

Not sure what they did, but have you considered using a bolt and nut and bolting through the door metal? It would be a lot easier than trying to swap power windows in and doing custom wiring.

[Honda_Hobby]

Not sure what they did, but have you considered using a bolt and nut and bolting through the door metal? It would be a lot easier than trying to swap power windows in and doing custom wiring.

It already has that set up just to hold the regulator from falling out. I wish I taken a picture when I had the door panel off. My option at this point welding it which is the last resort, converting to power or getting a new door.