thermovalve on a 86 lxi hatchback?

[luvestoospooge]

okay, so just bought my first 3gee hatch! WHOO!


anyways, the thermovalve is broken to crap and covered in jb weld. every place i went said that they didnt show a thermovalve for a fuel injected model. i know its efi, but maybe the earlier models were set up different? anyways can i just buy the one for carbed model and be on my way or what? i just dont wanna spend 40 something dollars or order one off ebay and it not be right

ohh and they said they had a blue or a black one i could choose at orilleys. im stuck and gotta smog it before i can get it in my name, any help would be appreciated! :sadwave:

[charliekuney]

Thermo...stat?

[Bluntman]

Some auto parts stores can cross reference the factory part number. On a 86 LXi the Honda part # I show is 17360-PN3-003. It is number 1 in this pic, if this is what you are talking about.http://www.bkhondaparts.com/billkay/jsp/prddisplay.jsp?catcgry1=ACCORD&catcgry2=1986&catcgry3=3DR+LXI+%28NON-PASSIVE%29&catcgry4=KA5MT&catcgry5=FUEL+VACUUM+TUBING+%28PGM-FI%29&ListAll=All&vinsrch=no&systemcomp=List+All&prdrefno=&quantity=0&act=&count=0&hidSwitch=&hidIrno=

And also in 1987 that Part# was replaced by another#, but same part. You can google the part numbers, and RockAuto has it.
http://www.hondapartsnow.com/engine/e__0201~1987~honda~accord~3dr_lxi_non-passive~4at~kl~fuel~vacuum~tubing.html

[luvestoospooge]

ported vacuum switch, whatever you wanna call it, its on the thermostat housing, and just to clarify bluntman, that is the one were talkin about right? and thanks for the quick response, i just didnt see exactly where it was located, but the picture looks similar.

[Bluntman]

ported vacuum switch, whatever you wanna call it, its on the thermostat housing, and just to clarify bluntman, that is the one were talkin about right? and thanks for the quick response, i just didnt see exactly where it was located, but the picture looks similar.

Yes ported vacuum switch. Goes by both names.

[luvestoospooge]

thanks man appreciate your help, goin to honda to get the part then hopefully gonna pass smog!

[Bluntman]

thanks man appreciate your help, goin to honda to get the part then hopefully gonna pass smog!

That is probably the way to go. I cross referenced it on my NAPA site and could not get a match. And being smog specific I could not get a match. And all the valves were for different temperature calibrations. And this is the site I use for NAPA part numbers and to cross reference factory part numbers with NAPA part numbers, it comes in handy.http://www.dmauto.com/web/dmauto/Catalog/NAPA_ECAT/1986/Honda+++++++++++++++++++++++++/Accord++++++++++++++++++++++++/2.0+L+1955+CC+L4++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++/4/4007/

[luvestoospooge]

honda didnt know what i was talking about when i went up there, a mechanic told me to just jump a line between the outlets for the switch and just bypass it?

sounds like it would work, i usually let it warm up before i drive, cause its starting to get a little cooler.

well did what he said and it failed smog for carbon monoxide.

the hc was (standard)197 and (current) 65
the co was (standard)1.27 and (current) 2.92
the nox was (standard)1440 and (current) 276

do you know anything about emissions? like what could cause it to fail, i tested with the lines plugged and once with it looped back, it was about the same both times, and theirs no mil, the car has newer heads, dizzy, and a older tune up, and yes i warmed it up real good, like 80 in 4th to the shop, and it idled while my friend was getting the dyno ready, just wondering cause ive never had one fail for carbon monoxide, any help would be appreciated, i just gotta make it pass for one more year!

[ecogabriel]

honda didnt know what i was talking about when i went up there, a mechanic told me to just jump a line between the outlets for the switch and just bypass it?

sounds like it would work, i usually let it warm up before i drive, cause its starting to get a little cooler.

well did what he said and it failed smog for carbon monoxide.

the hc was (standard)197 and (current) 65
the co was (standard)1.27 and (current) 2.92
the nox was (standard)1440 and (current) 276

do you know anything about emissions? like what could cause it to fail, i tested with the lines plugged and once with it looped back, it was about the same both times, and theirs no mil, the car has newer heads, dizzy, and a older tune up, and yes i warmed it up real good, like 80 in 4th to the shop, and it idled while my friend was getting the dyno ready, just wondering cause ive never had one fail for carbon monoxide, any help would be appreciated, i just gotta make it pass for one more year!

Well, at least your EGR system works OK. Those are a little painful to diagnose and especially so because the system changed a little between from 88 onwards so the manual we have over here is not that useful...

Since you have just got your car I would have suggested to get a new O2 (oxygen) sensor before putting it in the dyno. At about $20 for a universal-type (bosch) they are a maintenance item. Anyway, I posted a link below so you can learn a little bit on the "science" of emissions.

http://www.aa1car.com/library/2000/ic60032.htm

http://www.auto-repair-help.com/auto_diagnostics/diagnose_emission_test_failure.php

Oh, with regards to the thermovalve it should have only two ports. I dunno about the temperature operation of the thermovalve though. I believe what the valve does is allow the vapor canister to direct fuel vapors to the intake once the engine is warmed up.

Hope it helps. Good luck

[wh1skea]

I'm in the same situation with my thermovalve being broken on my 86 hatch. Any idea if it would be any cause the the up-down idling my car does when its cold?

[luvestoospooge]

okay, just an update, i removed one of the o2 sensors and it was gunked up and rusted pretty good on the outside, their probably original! So ordered a pair off rockauto.com, btw i might start ordering from them more, the o2 sensors were around 8 dollars each, ordered them last night and they estimate the sensors will be here tomorrow! i would choose to wait 2 extra days anytime to pay less than half as much lol

and it seems to have alot more balls over 3k, it used to level out now i can feel the powerband, ever since i just bypassed that thermovalve. oh and thanks for your oppinions guys, i dont think my old hondas would still be running if it wasnt for this site!!

and ill tell ya how the new sensors go when i get them in :thumbup:

ok gonna edit it ONE MORE TIME!
i just remembered last night after running my car hard all day, it sputtered for a bit leaving a stop sign and for a little bit there after like it was low on gas, then it went back to normal.. could the o2 sensors have caused that? ive never really had an o2 sensor go bad so i dont know what to expect, its got new heads, plugs and distributor by the way. and was planing on doing the fuel filter and transmission oil tomorrow with the o2 sensors just cause i dont know when and if it was ever changed, and its a good piece of mind not having to worry about that for around another 30k miles!

[luvestoospooge]

just an update, closing the book the cat was plugged as hell and got to the point where it blew a radiator hose off, and eventually wouldnt run, so probably why it was failing, and i took it off and gutted it and it was completely melted on the inside. woo for no emmisions testing :) and the thermovalve just went to the evap purge i suspect following the lines, but thanks for the help guys