wire cleanup question

[lostforawhile]

I'm in the process of removing excess unused wires and plugs from the drivers side up near the power steering area, I already got that vaccume box from under the fender, and i can clean up the harness from under the fender shield, what are most of the unused stuff? i killed the ac, so thats gone, no emission valves, also is the round relay up near the front on that side AC or is that a headlight motor relay? I'll pull the harness down into the wheel well, I had to pull the headlight motor to get the bolt for the hidden vaccume box, so that area will get scrubbed of old PS fluid and dirt, and painted, then put back together, it's filty .

[cygnus x-1]

I'm in the process of removing excess unused wires and plugs from the drivers side up near the power steering area, I already got that vaccume box from under the fender, and i can clean up the harness from under the fender shield, what are most of the unused stuff? i killed the ac, so thats gone, no emission valves, also is the round relay up near the front on that side AC or is that a headlight motor relay? I'll pull the harness down into the wheel well, I had to pull the headlight motor to get the bolt for the hidden vaccume box, so that area will get scrubbed of old PS fluid and dirt, and painted, then put back together, it's filty .


I couldn't tell you much about what wires go where in your case, but I did do some wiring cleanup earlier this summer. I found it easiest to just unwrap the harness and start pruning out wires that I knew weren't being used. It's a tedious job but not really difficult. I started in the front left corner but eventually worked all the way back to the "ECU", which also got chucked as well since I'm running a Megasquirt. The MS is wired independently of the factory harness so I just left all the old stuff at the time.


C|

[lostforawhile]

according to my other book thats the AC diode, it may also be the ac relay, but it's not the headlight relays , i can't go out there right now because we have a pretty bad storm rolling through

[lostforawhile]

can someone verify that the dual diode that is attached to the round relay is all AC stuff? it's in a seperate harness that unplugs from under the fender, no need to cut anything if it is, it just unplugs, I'm going to run new wires from the headlight socket, this is something everyone should do, those wires take a beating where they flex with the headlight door.

[cygnus x-1]

can someone verify that the dual diode that is attached to the round relay is all AC stuff? it's in a seperate harness that unplugs from under the fender, no need to cut anything if it is, it just unplugs, I'm going to run new wires from the headlight socket, this is something everyone should do, those wires take a beating where they flex with the headlight door.


That AC diode thing sounds familiar. At the left front fender there was a bracket with multiple relays on it. Two were for the headlights and everything else was for the AC, pretty sure the diode was in there. I pulled quite a bit from the left front I remember.

Might be some info in the manuals too if you haven't checked there.

http://www.pauldesign.ru/honda/shopmanual.html


C|

[lostforawhile]

That AC diode thing sounds familiar. At the left front fender there was a bracket with multiple relays on it. Two were for the headlights and everything else was for the AC, pretty sure the diode was in there. I pulled quite a bit from the left front I remember.

Might be some info in the manuals too if you haven't checked there.

http://www.pauldesign.ru/honda/shopmanual.html


C|

it's a relay on a round relay? is it part of that the headlight setup? if it is i can bundle the wire and tuck it under the fender area. does someone have a correct wiring diagram for the cooling fan, condensor fan circuits? I'll simplfy the wiring anyway since the ac is gone, I'll make both fans run at one time.

[lostforawhile]

I can't seem to get ahold of a good complete factory diagram, every one i find is different. This is the one relay, it's in the left corner of the engine compartment, it goes to a single pin plug, can someone confirm that single pin plug goes to the reciever dryer or the pressure switch in the condenser? if it does that entire relay can be eliminated.http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021793.jpg
I'll paint this area tomorrow, I'm going to use that same Ace rust stop paint to paint this section tomorrow, that I used to paint the floor pans. It's worked really well in the car, so it should be good under the hood, They said they can tint a quart of that paint to match the factory color. It goes on fine with a brush, it's like tractor paint.
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021792.jpg

[lostforawhile]

since I'm doing this, I'll probably do the headlight relay setup, I've got plenty of high quality relays, and since the combo switch for the hatch is discontinued, this will take all of the load off of the switch, no more burned contacts, for safety you need four relays and fuses like original

[cygnus x-1]

I can't seem to get ahold of a good complete factory diagram, every one i find is different. This is the one relay, it's in the left corner of the engine compartment, it goes to a single pin plug, can someone confirm that single pin plug goes to the reciever dryer or the pressure switch in the condenser? if it does that entire relay can be eliminated.http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021793.jpg




The diagram in my Chilton's manual says that the single red wire (bottom)
above goes to the AC compressor clutch. The other end of that red wire goes to the AC compressor clutch relay. That relay has 4 wires going to it, red, yel, yel/blk, and yel/blk. One of the yel/blk wires is a jumper to the other. The yel/blk wires also go to the AC delay unit. The box on the right looks like the diode box. It should have blu, red/blu, blu/red, and blu/red. The blu/red wires are jumpered together.

From what I can tell that entire harness is all AC stuff. The blu wire from the diode box goes to the radiator fan control module (among other things) and tells it to turn on the condenser fan. You should be able to cut that blu wire back to where it connects to other blu wires.


C|

[lostforawhile]

The diagram in my Chilton's manual says that the single red wire (bottom)
above goes to the AC compressor clutch. The other end of that red wire goes to the AC compressor clutch relay. That relay has 4 wires going to it, red, yel, yel/blk, and yel/blk. One of the yel/blk wires is a jumper to the other. The yel/blk wires also go to the AC delay unit. The box on the right looks like the diode box. It should have blu, red/blu, blu/red, and blu/red. The blu/red wires are jumpered together.

From what I can tell that entire harness is all AC stuff. The blu wire from the diode box goes to the radiator fan control module (among other things) and tells it to turn on the condenser fan. You should be able to cut that blu wire back to where it connects to other blu wires.


C|that helps a ton, snooze says that someone is in the process of scanning the electrical diagrams from the factory electrical manual, i'll be so glad when it's up, i'll run all the needed wires under there up under the bumper cover area, paint in that area tomorrow

[lostforawhile]

the next step after this is all reassembled, is the wiring mess down by the fusebox, i need to take the fusebox apart, figure out how the condenser fan and cooling fan are switched on, so i can tie the two relays together, where are the headlight motor relays? are they by the battery side, the two gold relays? and what is the single gold relay on that side by the strut tower?

[lostforawhile]

this section is almost done, we are going to do one piece at a time, dismantle everything, paint it, and put it back together. I got a quart of the rust stop paint from Ace, they matched it to the factory paint, not bad for under ten bucks. It's like tractor paint, really tough but takes a couple of days to dry. perfect underhood paint.
mostly cleaned
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021792-1.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021795.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021794.jpg
the cover on the pump is a modified one from an 81 civic
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021796.jpg

[Civic Accord Honda]

holy crap!! theres white paint under that 10 years of dust?!

clean whole thing nao!

[lostforawhile]

holy crap!! theres white paint under that 10 years of dust?!

clean whole thing nao!thats new paint, if you read the post we are dismantling and painting one section at a time, as well as removing unneeded wires, it takes time, that paint goes on with a brush, it's very tough paint, there is just no other way to paint it without pulling everything at once

[lostforawhile]

everything under the fender is almost done, all of the excess wires are gone, wires are bundled and loomed, and i just have to hook up some relays, i need to find a weatherproof four circuit fuse holder for the lights. They will be hooked up exactly like before, but the switch will only carry signal for the relays. this completly unloads the switch, no more burned high,low beam contacts. you need four relays, one for each filament, and four fuses, Honda has done this since the 70's, to prevent both high or low beams from failing at the same time. this was at a time when other car makers put all four lamps on one fuse.
this ground connector went, i only have four grounds left, so this thing could go, the tab is the ground point, if this comes loose you'll never figure it out, your horn, corner marker, turn signal, brake warning, ac relays, carb solonoids,idle control solonoid, cruise control, wiper motor, washer motors, and a buch of other stuff ground here. it's buried in such a way it gets covered in PS fluid and dirt. it's under the bumper corner. drivers side. http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021797.jpg
the excess wires were cut off and heat shrunk
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021798.jpg
the wiper and brake switch wire were pulled out and rewrapped, but they didn't have to be changed
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021800.jpg
this is whats left, turn signal, corner marker and running light, horn wires, headlight wires, headlight motor wires, and several grounds. this is reminding me more and more of a Lucas electrical system, way too many grounds long distances from the source all grounded to the same point. why is the wiper motor and brake warning ground four feet away? it could be 3 inches long and to a wiper mounting bolt.
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021799.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021801.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021803.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021802.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021804.jpg
the only visible wire in this area
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021805.jpg

[87roach]

Look at all those wires you capped haha.

I like what you've done Lost, I will be looking into doing the same thing and cleaning up un-used wires.

I agree about the grounds, I will probably go through and change those where needed.

[lostforawhile]

i dread the passenger side,it's going to be a nightmare

[Lil Mike]

yea thats looking great. one question those wires you capped off how much more time would it take to fully remove those wires and de pin any connectors that used them?

[lostforawhile]

yea thats looking great. one question those wires you capped off how much more time would it take to fully remove those wires and de pin any connectors that used them?

it's not worth the effort to do that, this is all wrapped and loomed, it's above the splash shield, you are talking about really getting into a mess

[Civic Accord Honda]

i replaced that ground block by just splicing all the wires in to a yellow ring terminal heat shrieked around the wires. and using a self tapping sheet metal screw in to the body. worked great and the lights were actully better! i bet those old ground blocks get corroded and poor connectivity over time

[lostforawhile]

i replaced that ground block by just splicing all the wires in to a yellow ring terminal heat shrieked around the wires. and using a self tapping sheet metal screw in to the body. worked great and the lights were actully better! i bet those old ground blocks get corroded and poor connectivity over time

thats the ground for the left headlight,as well as the turn signal, and corner marker, the headlight ground looped into the turn signal ground first, they couldn't run a continuous 1 foot of wire? the harnesses to the headlights need to be replaced anyway, they have flexed so many times i'm surprised any of them still work, the one on the right was replaced and most of the wire strands in it were broke

[JDMPrelude23]

Nice! i need to do this, i wanna start cleanin out my engine bay... start off wit PS, AC then battery to trunk

[2oodoor]

:Dthat is the cleanest driver side fender bucket on the site I do believe