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View Full Version : a/c delete help... quick



88lxi-shortram
11-30-2010, 06:32 AM
ok since ive removed the lines and everything under the hood im going to pull the evaporator out today so i can plug the holes in the firewall. but... i still want to be able to maintain heat. is it possible? the a/c means nothing to me seeing to the fact i run with the windows down anyways. but heat is vital.
a few questions would be
1:how to access the housing
2: looking at a diagram i see that the thermostat looks to be connected or bolted to expansion valve... its an old diagram and very confusing so i could be wrong.
3:what should i remove/keep?

lostforawhile
11-30-2010, 11:17 AM
the heater box is under the dash after the evaporator, the evaporator box is between the blower and heater box, you just need to connect the blower back to the heater box. the eaisiest way would be to remove the evaporator core from the evaporator box, seal the box up, and put it back in. then it becomes an air duct. if you need space, you need to figure out something else. there was an OEM ac delete air duct, but I've never seen one, I just made my own

A18A
11-30-2010, 12:00 PM
^indeeed

lostforawhile
11-30-2010, 03:19 PM
I always wondered why they didn't put the heater core in there and the evaporator where the heater core is, how often do you replace an evaporator vs a heater core? the core could have been changed in 30 minutes

88lxi-shortram
11-30-2010, 03:19 PM
That was the plan... I just wanted to make sure I would still have heat... Anyways I'll probably try to get it done if I get the chance. Weather here is uber lame lol. I couldn't even see on the way to school today because of the rain... It slows down my day and makes me not be able to do anything.

Xaisk
11-30-2010, 03:30 PM
Yeah you should be able to completely remove the evap, then fab a pipe that will go from the blower motor to the heater core. I know pretty much everything about the damn A/C from rebuilding it. Only 2 firewall ports should need to be plugged. The 2 A/C line wholes. Just pull the evap, fab the pipe, and plug em.

The heater core is only tied to the evap via the blow motor.

I need to check up my A/C. Never went and had the oil in the compressor changed. Nutsack mechanic put 140 weight oil in the damn compressor and it drops my RPMs about 200-300 RPM just to have it running. I think mine might have developed a leak though. I tryed to activate my compressor and it wouldnt engage.

88lxi-shortram
11-30-2010, 03:44 PM
Dam... Fab work. What would I need to fabricate it? I know I probably have all of the supplies I just need resources and possibly instructions.??

lostforawhile
11-30-2010, 04:23 PM
Dam... Fab work. What would I need to fabricate it? I know I probably have all of the supplies I just need resources and possibly instructions.??if you aren't adding anything under the dash, just take everything out of the evaporator box, it's plastic it doesn't weigh much, fill all holes in it and use it as an air duct

88lxi-shortram
11-30-2010, 04:50 PM
I don't exactly understand what you mean by add stuff but here's my main objective. I want to get rid of the ac as easily as possible while retaining the heater. I don't min fab work because I have access to tools and stuff but I'm not the best at the hvac field so hang in there with me and try not to get frustrated. I'm learning slowly... But surely

lostforawhile
11-30-2010, 05:39 PM
I don't exactly understand what you mean by add stuff but here's my main objective. I want to get rid of the ac as easily as possible while retaining the heater. I don't min fab work because I have access to tools and stuff but I'm not the best at the hvac field so hang in there with me and try not to get frustrated. I'm learning slowly... But surely

I thought you might be using the space used by the evaporator, all the evaporator housing is, is a big duct with the evaporator coil, and ac thermostat inside of it. it splits into two halves, open it up, remove the evaporator coil and other parts from inside of it, put it back together, seal up the holes with good quality duct tape, and put it back in, since it has all the brackets ready to bolt up, it's the best way to do it. all it does is allow air from the blower to reach the heater core assembly under the dash, just like a duct in your house. the openings in the heater box aren't round, neither is the opening in the blower motor assembly. the housing the evaporator is in is designed to bolt right in there, and bolt right up. I would have done this, but I used the space under the dash.

Pnem3
11-30-2010, 06:02 PM
I always wondered why they didn't put the heater core in there and the evaporator where the heater core is, how often do you replace an evaporator vs a heater core? the core could have been changed in 30 minutes
The air has to go through the evap before it goes through the heater core. Sometimes both the heat and AC are on at the same time. In the winter, you may want to de-fog the air by running the AC to get the moisture out and then heating the dry air with the heater core. If it was reversed and the air went through the heater before the AC then the heater would just overwhelm the AC and no moisture would be taken out. Because the path of air-flow is from right to left when sitting in the passenger seat, the AC evap has to be to the right of the heater core.

88lxi-shortram
12-01-2010, 06:55 AM
so basically if i take out the evap i will end up fogging up my windows? that doesnt really matter to me. i just want raw heat in the car to kind of counter the cold air i let in through the windows. today i should be getting started if we dont get stuck in the classroom and its not raining anymore... its just freezing :mad: ... but anyways ill be asking questions as i go since i know i dont know exactly what im doing and i only get maybe one or two hours of work time...

Pnem3
12-01-2010, 08:00 AM
so basically if i take out the evap i will end up fogging up my windows? that doesnt really matter to me. i just want raw heat in the car to kind of counter the cold air i let in through the windows. today i should be getting started if we dont get stuck in the classroom and its not raining anymore... its just freezing :mad: ... but anyways ill be asking questions as i go since i know i dont know exactly what im doing and i only get maybe one or two hours of work time...

The AC has to work for the evap to take out moisture. It seems that you have already disabled your AC so just removing the evaporator won't make a difference. A working AC does serve to defog a car so if your AC worked before then you might see a difference.

88lxi-shortram
12-02-2010, 06:34 AM
do i drop the box down from under the dash? if so ... how? ive unbolted everything inculding that metal bar for support. and i still cant get it to drop out.... i may end up just cutting the two pipes from the firewall to dropit out

lostforawhile
12-02-2010, 09:54 AM
do i drop the box down from under the dash? if so ... how? ive unbolted everything inculding that metal bar for support. and i still cant get it to drop out.... i may end up just cutting the two pipes from the firewall to dropit out
you need to drop the blower first, it's also clamped to the blower i believe. once the blower is out, it will come away from the heater box assembly under the dash

88lxi-shortram
12-02-2010, 04:50 PM
lol well i didnt get the message in time and i did manage to get it out by forcing past the dash clip like things in front of it... luckily nothing got broken and tomoro ill be sealing those holes and reinstalling... but the problem is that the housing has a space b/w the box on the right about 1/4 inch long mayeb smaller..

Xaisk
12-02-2010, 05:23 PM
if you aren't adding anything under the dash, just take everything out of the evaporator box, it's plastic it doesn't weigh much, fill all holes in it and use it as an air duct

That is a great idea actually. I didnt think of that. If you just do it like lost said and use the plastic box then you dont have to fab anything. Kudos!

(EDIT)

I have an AC but mine doesnt work. Needs lighter weight oil and more coolant added. I didnt think about running the A/C to remove the moisture then running the heater. My windows ALWAYS fog up, and I live in Mississippi. You have just answered a question ive been trying to figure out for awhile.

-$MOKIN-
12-02-2010, 08:49 PM
Hey do u even need to mes with it? I took my compressor out and my ac lines to the firewall and my heat works just fine . Just like it did before i took the ac compressor and lnes out . Just left a whole in the firewall .O well.

http://img560.imageshack.us/img560/1056/57368819.png