Electrical trouble shooting

[PeterNtheWolf]

89 lx-i is having electrical problems. I had a new battery drain down to nothing. I presumed it was the power cable connection, but a new cable didnt solve the issues, though it created a new one. After replace the battery with another larger capacity battery it started up right ran normal. when turned off the ignition locked the key in. During this whole time with a new battery it had the battery light on.

To release the key, i disconnected the power cable, and then heard the fuse switch off.
What could be the cause of this problem?

[PeterNtheWolf]

Alternator must be not working because it has cut out while driving.

But the system still has a short.

[PeterNtheWolf]

its not the steering lock. and the automatic shifter is also locked.

[PeterNtheWolf]

main relay?

[PeterNtheWolf]

does the light only mean the alternator isnt charging.

but what would cause the key to get locked in? and the trans.

my shifter may not be making it to park.

[Vanilla Sky]

The light means the voltage is too low. Take your car to the parts store and have a full charging system test run.

[PeterNtheWolf]

found out the ignition was just sticking, and the trans shifter was too and wasnt all the way in Park. the trans fluid was also low
so false alarm with that.

[PeterNtheWolf]

is the alternator the only problem... i bypassed the battery by hooking cables to another vehicle with higher batter capacity, and the light is on.

it may still be a fuse issue

[lostforawhile]

http://wwwdelivery.superstock.com/WI/223/1779/PreviewComp/SuperStock_1779R-24498.jpg

i'm not saying another word

[w261w261]

The sticking ignition key means your ignition lock is telling you it is on its way to failure. Either rebuild it, which might be beyond your skill level at the moment, or get a new one, or grab one from the JY. You may have to pay someone to put it in, or search on here for how to do it. Eventually, you won't be able to get the key out at all or it will fail in another way....whatever, you don't want to have something go wrong with it just when it's most inconvenient.

Buy a decent multi-meter at Radio Shack, about $20. With a freshly charged battery with the motor off, you should measure about 12.0-12.8 volts across the terminals. With the motor on, it should be 13.5+ across the terminals. If it's unchanged, it means the alternator is not charging. The dash light being on means that the system has detected a low voltage situation.

You probably need a new alternator.

[lostforawhile]

The sticking ignition key means your ignition lock is telling you it is on its way to failure. Either rebuild it, which might be beyond your skill level at the moment, or get a new one, or grab one from the JY. You may have to pay someone to put it in, or search on here for how to do it. Eventually, you won't be able to get the key out at all or it will fail in another way....whatever, you don't want to have something go wrong with it just when it's most inconvenient.

Buy a decent multi-meter at Radio Shack, about $20. With a freshly charged battery with the motor off, you should measure about 12.0-12.8 volts across the terminals. With the motor on, it should be 13.5+ across the terminals. If it's unchanged, it means the alternator is not charging. The dash light being on means that the system has detected a low voltage situation.

You probably need a new alternator.the dashlight means the regulator is no longer switching the field current and the altenator or the regulator has failed. it doesn't detect voltage, that wire changes state from a +12 volts to a ground depending on whether the regulator is switching the field coil. check fuse number eight in the underhood fuse box it should be hot all the time

[Hauntd ca3]

usually with a charge light on all the time, its the brushes have worn out, especially with denso alts.
the light means that the alt output voltage or lack there of is lower than battery voltage.
if the light goes out for a start but goes comes on with some load, the brushes are gone.
if the light stays on , but goes out or dims when you rev it, the rectifier has a diode out. the reg may still be switching the field current, but if it has a diode out, it will be running on 2 phases and wont have any guts

[rc00netzero]

I actually had a case once where the light stayed on with key off and removed (on a Buick). That turned out to be a dead short in the alternator. It's rare but can happen.

[w261w261]

usually with a charge light on all the time, its the brushes have worn out, especially with denso alts.
the light means that the alt output voltage or lack there of is lower than battery voltage.
if the light goes out for a start but goes comes on with some load, the brushes are gone.
if the light stays on , but goes out or dims when you rev it, the rectifier has a diode out. the reg may still be switching the field current, but if it has a diode out, it will be running on 2 phases and wont have any guts

I had to replace my alternator recently. The only warning I had was the day before at a light, when the warning light flickered. It went out when I accelerated away and stayed off. The next day I noticed it was gone. This is the only time I've ever lost an alternator without a light coming on.

[lostforawhile]

I had to replace my alternator recently. The only warning I had was the day before at a light, when the warning light flickered. It went out when I accelerated away and stayed off. The next day I noticed it was gone. This is the only time I've ever lost an alternator without a light coming on.

this is why you use a voltmeter, i would really like to get one of the electronic circuits for an aircraft that warns of low or high voltage but they are so expensive, the warning light isn't that accurate.

[Hauntd ca3]

yaeh, if yout batt is flat as hell, the alt may only need to output 12.5 or so volts to put the light out.
i have a stereo( pioneer) that has its own built in voltmeter, and it is pretty accurate.

[Demon1024]

yes it's your alt, but check the fuses first i beleive theres one under the hood and one under the dash for it

I've had a similar problem on my ignition switch and door keyholes before. My self i have always used just a bit of oil. Always fixed it. Never had a problem tho im sure someone will say it will attract more dirt that way it's never been as issue. One or two drops of oil never a problem again. Just rub you key with a bit and work it around. On / off , in / out a few times

[Dr_Snooz]

this is why you use a voltmeter, i would really like to get one of the electronic circuits for an aircraft that warns of low or high voltage but they are so expensive, the warning light isn't that accurate.

Why not use an aftermarket voltage gauge?

[lostforawhile]

Why not use an aftermarket voltage gauge?

i do have one, but sometimes you can get complacent always looking at the gauge and not notice it dropping, this is why a warning light combined with the gauge is the best option, when the warning light goes off it makes you look at the gauge

[Dr_Snooz]

Or you could pencil a mark on the gauge. But you probably have some really slick warning light idea already, so I'll just be quiet over here.

[PeterNtheWolf]

Or you could pencil a mark on the gauge. But you probably have some really slick warning light idea already, so I'll just be quiet over here.
you the only one who thought that

[PeterNtheWolf]

The sticking ignition key means your ignition lock is telling you it is on its way to failure. Either rebuild it, which might be beyond your skill level at the moment, or get a new one, or grab one from the JY. You may have to pay someone to put it in, or search on here for how to do it. Eventually, you won't be able to get the key out at all or it will fail in another way....whatever, you don't want to have something go wrong with it just when it's most inconvenient.

Buy a decent multi-meter at Radio Shack, about $20. With a freshly charged battery with the motor off, you should measure about 12.0-12.8 volts across the terminals. With the motor on, it should be 13.5+ across the terminals. If it's unchanged, it means the alternator is not charging. The dash light being on means that the system has detected a low voltage situation.

You probably need a new alternator.
what makes you judge me like i am not able to do an ignition rebuild/rewiring?

but thank you i think its my alternator as well.

[PeterNtheWolf]

yes it's your alt, but check the fuses first i beleive theres one under the hood and one under the dash for it

I've had a similar problem on my ignition switch and door keyholes before. My self i have always used just a bit of oil. Always fixed it. Never had a problem tho im sure someone will say it will attract more dirt that way it's never been as issue. One or two drops of oil never a problem again. Just rub you key with a bit and work it around. On / off , in / out a few times
yep i used lithium grease, its a bit luxurious for this application, so WD-40 is good.

but i was thinking of replacing the main relay fuse since its prone to cracking on the bond. and its only 10 dollars and simple to exchange.

and when i do the alternator im going to replace the water pump and belt tensioner and belts. since im in there. it is around 100 for those parts

[Demon1024]

i use 10w-30 lol
always have a bit after an oil change and keep it around. light oil or grease im sure would be better

[w261w261]

If you're going to put something in the ignition switch, probably best to use graphite lock lube. Comes in a spray can or a little tube.

[lostforawhile]

If you're going to put something in the ignition switch, probably best to use graphite lock lube. Comes in a spray can or a little tube.
axle grease always works well :tongue: