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hondalude86
02-03-2011, 04:47 PM
So i posted in the Tech thread asking about the parts into an ET2. Well, i've taken the dive and have bought a whole slew of parts...

Here is the quick rundown so far...

Eagle Hbeam Forged Rods
SRP 10.7 b18a/b pistons

Bisimoto valve springs

Nylon crank Scraper
Trap door weld in oil pan baffle

and an AEM Wideband O2 sensor...

Pics to come as the parts from in...

I also need parts for a Ford EDIS setup, I read 2ndgenguy's thread about his in his hatch, but any info on what to buy would be much appreciated.

Thanks,
Ryan

hondalude86
02-03-2011, 04:51 PM
Oh yea, and i guess i should post what other things i have so far for the car...

Dual Weber DCOE45s sidedrafts on a custom intake manifold
S&S headers
delta 285deg camshaft
7lbs clutchnet flywheel
Clutchnet carbon/kevlar sprung clutch disc
Clutchnet Red 2x pressure plate

That's as far as i can immediately remember thus far

rjudgey
02-04-2011, 05:06 AM
Ryan you need to talk to Cygnus he'll be best to supply brackets and gears for you as well as whole wealth of info on tuning and setting up probably provide some maps as well!!
Don't paint the inside of the oil pan or you'll end up like mikes turbo lude with a dead engine the paint will come off at some point and then clog the oil pickup pipe in the pan leading to oil starvation!! Just make sure it's clean from any bit's of stray weld, and no rust and rub off any burnt bits of original paint. Sounds like a good build just make sure you don't get any valve contact between the pistons you may have to have the crowns moddified a little but hopefully the original valve pockets will be big and deep enough to cover what you have in your head! Whats the plans on the head anything special? Should get some good power out of this setup but junk the collector on the S&S chop it off and weld up at least a 2.25" main tube and flexi joint onto it but preferably 2.5" may well suit better if your shooting for over 200bhp. The setup you have and are planning will really struggle with the 2" collector, downpipe and flexi joint the rest of the system should match the collector so 2.25" or 2.5" depending on what you go with.

2ndGenGuy
02-04-2011, 11:08 AM
I don't know if he's still doing it, but for a while Cygnus was mounting the trigger wheels on the A20/ET cranks and building brackets for the sensor. If he's still going it, pick up his setup! It's awesome and bolts on, and will save you a ton of work. I love the EDIS setup, it totally transforms how your car runs.

As far as the Ford parts, they're off of a mid 90's Escort. I just went on eBay and searched for an EDIS-4 setup. It's usually dirt cheap, and you don't have to pull parts at the yard. The setup I got for $80 came with a coil pack, plug wires, trigger wheel, sensor, and EDIS module. You also need to buy a MegaJolt lite Jr to control it.

hondalude86
02-04-2011, 03:38 PM
Ok, I've ordered the MegaJolt Lite Jr, with the hard rev limiter installed, along with some shielded wire, and adapters to work with my computer... Now I just gotta get cygnus to message me back before i order the EDIS parts from egay

hondalude86
02-04-2011, 03:43 PM
Alright Rich, I wont be painting the inside of my pan i promise!
After what happened with the motor, i'm pretty excited to be getting the money to finally start putting it all together... I've spent so much money in the last week that I'm really hoping for the best... HOWEVER, I doubt I'll be spending anymore money on the head. Right now its just stock valves and intake/exhaust ports Rustylude87 (jared) said i should port and polish it myself or at least play with the ports... We'll see... But right now, I'm hoping for 160ish Hp with the setup that i'll be running, knowing that the car could make more with some headwork done. my Long LONG term goal is a small turbo... Hence why i'm looking at the MAP based EDIS system.

Question... My current manifold is ported between the two intakes (1,2 and 3,4) but on the bottom. Do you guys think i can just tee off of those two bottom vacuum lines and run that to a little plenum and then to the MegaJolt MAP sensor?

2ndGenGuy
02-04-2011, 05:39 PM
Question... My current manifold is ported between the two intakes (1,2 and 3,4) but on the bottom. Do you guys think i can just tee off of those two bottom vacuum lines and run that to a little plenum and then to the MegaJolt MAP sensor?

That's exactly what the MegaJolt guide says to do. You want to try to get a nice smooth MAP signal from all the runners. Running them into a manifold to equalize the pressure is the best way to go about it, AFAIK.

http://www.autosportlabs.net/MJLJ_V4_vehicle_installation_guide#Load_Sensing:_M anifold_Pressure_Sensor_.28MAP.29_or_Throttle_Posi tion_Sensor_.28TPS.29

Vanilla Sky
02-26-2011, 01:10 PM
Moved at user request. I really hope this build runs well.

hondalude86
02-26-2011, 02:51 PM
Thanks vanilla, i'm going to try and take some pictures today of my new goodies, i still have new stuff on the way, but i'll post the pics with the parts, so that everyone can enjoy them all on here too...

Update, got the motor pulled and taken apart, still trying to find time to bring some beers over to the machine shop along with my crank!

gfrg88
02-27-2011, 08:20 PM
Nice... Really interesting. I should be starting my, very similar, build soon too. Keep us updated... Oh and pics or ban!!!

MessyHonda
02-27-2011, 11:23 PM
what kind of gearing are you going to go with? any lsd for better grip

hondalude86
02-28-2011, 07:41 AM
I'm running a stock gm1 transmission. No LSD yet. I'm not sure if there is diff that is a direct fit for the base model transmission

hondalude86
02-28-2011, 02:47 PM
AEM UEGO
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_3418.jpg

BisiMoto Valve Springs
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_3413.jpg

Eagle H-beam Rods
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_3412.jpg
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_3411.jpg

MegaJolt
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_3410.jpg

SRP Pistons 10.7:1
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_3409.jpg

Grip load of Ford EDIS-4 parts
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_3408.jpg

Gutted Motor
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_3416.jpg

Marred Rod journal on the crank
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_3414.jpg

Vanilla Sky
02-28-2011, 03:00 PM
Are those powdered rods?

gfrg88
02-28-2011, 06:04 PM
sssiiickk!!!! nice seeing people doing builds like this one here!!!! :thumbup:

MessyHonda
02-28-2011, 08:11 PM
I'm running a stock gm1 transmission. No LSD yet. I'm not sure if there is diff that is a direct fit for the base model transmission

i know for the a20 the stock b16 lsd fits...i was thinking a OBX lsd is around 390 or a quaife/wavetrac that is around 900

gfrg88
02-28-2011, 08:14 PM
i know for the a20 the stock b16 lsd fits...i was thinking a OBX lsd is around 390 or a quaife/wavetrac that is around 900

:eek5:


Damn, where the hell have I been!!!! I should've jumped back in the a20 scene a long time ago!!! There's soo much new shit around here!!! Fucking amazing :D

MessyHonda
02-28-2011, 08:29 PM
:eek5:


Damn, where the hell have I been!!!! I should've jumped back in the a20 scene a long time ago!!! There's soo much new shit around here!!! Fucking amazing :D

or you could go the cheap way and just buy mounts and drop a b

gfrg88
02-28-2011, 08:31 PM
wait, there's mounts now???? :eek:

MessyHonda
02-28-2011, 08:34 PM
wait, there's mounts now???? :eek:

http://www.innovativemounts.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=18950

yes...but i would much rather see this a20/et2 motor build

gfrg88
02-28-2011, 08:44 PM
http://www.innovativemounts.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=18950

yes...but i would much rather see this a20/et2 motor build

fffuuuuu... BUT if I were to do an engine swap, it would be something else ;)


And yes, I'm loving this build. And am still planning on building something very, very similar :D

edit: sorry for hijacking your thread :slap:

hondalude86
03-01-2011, 08:13 PM
Its ok... i don't mind the thread jacking... As far as the transmission thing goes, its awesome that a stock b16 lsd fits in an a20 trans... I've got two a18 trannsimissions and one a20 trans... so all i'd need is some dx/si drive shafts......

Edison Carasio
03-02-2011, 02:17 PM
Things like this make me wish I had a third gen Accord LX-i and money.

Damn you!

zedries
03-03-2011, 04:58 PM
Hmm.. quite excited to watch this. I will be doing a similar mini build on my ES1 with twin side draft carbs. Like everyone has said, please keep us appraised of developments with lots of pics!

Z

rjudgey
03-04-2011, 08:20 AM
The pistons look interesting if the pins are not offset might be worth using them round the wrong way, so that the smaller valve cutouts are the inlet and the larger valve cutouts are for the exhaust, but if they are all the same done bother, but you will need to do some work to the valve reliefs even if it's to check you don't clunk them once the cam and valves go into your head! With that dome i think you could well be looking at a much higher CR ration than they list for the B18!! What diameter are they? Personally i prefer flat top pistons or ones with a slight dish but for the money they look pretty good and of course are lighter and stronger than stock ones!! don't forget you'll need more piston to wall clearance than with cast pistons and you'll need to do each one individually to get a nice snug fit per cylinder, and please use oversize rings to the bore size you are using and then hand gap them to racing specs if you need advice on the gap end sizes check with a blueprinting book or let me know and I'll see what they recommend.

Are you going for bigger valves as well from SI or supertech using Smeado's setup?

hondalude86
03-04-2011, 04:41 PM
hey rich, i'm pretty sure the valve reliefs are the same on both sides. i'm going to use the rings that came with them with the recommended ring gap. I have exactly an 81mm bore. I'm on a semi limited budget right now, so with that said, there isn't going to be any head work done on this motor out side of the cam and valve springs. i'm not trying to shoot for crazy power, just for good power and reliablitly. i've still got to spend some money on some extreme valving for my koni's because ultimately, thats going to make a bigger difference than another 15-20hp.
I got a new battery (odyessy pc680) and the crank scraper, new oilpressure/water temp gauges, and the rest of my EDIS parts from chris on the way... I just need to find time to take my crank to the machine shop!

MessyHonda
03-05-2011, 01:46 PM
how high will it rev or be balanced to?

rjudgey
03-06-2011, 02:58 PM
Rev band will depend on how well the head flows and the cam specs, most A20's with some DIY clean up on the head, 3 angle valve seats with matched backcut valves with 1mm seats with appropriate breathing on intake and exhaust should pull clean power to 7.5k rpm with the High CR ratio that the pistons should give I would expect power to be around 150hp with lots of torque maybe bit more if the exhaust mani and system works well.

My A20 pulls cleanly to 8k rpm but thats due to the 285 degree camshaft and my headwork, but should be higher still as the stock cast manifold and crappy crush bent 2.25" exhaust is really choking the crap out this engine. I think with a decent mani and system mine would certainly put down around 210-220bhp and possibly more if i switched to the high compression A18 big valve head i have thats been recently built for this car. Still weighing up pros and cons of both designs and all the time it ain't broke I'm less enclined to swap it.

hondalude86
03-06-2011, 04:56 PM
I'm going to set the rev limit at 7.5k possibly
I have the 285degree camshaft, DCOE 45 with 41mm chokes and am planning on modding my collector with a 2.25 with only about 3 1/2 feet of exhaust past the collector with the turn down, and i honestly believe that with what I have now without any headwork i should be able to pull down 140whp at 5280 altitude... pretty easily... my only gauge is this...

my motor with out the high compression pistons with all the other listed mods but with a smaller 2inch collector pulled my 152whp prelude that weighs about 2100lbs without me. so here at this altitude i figure my white prelude makes in the 125whp range with slightly taller gearing... but lighter car. So i figure that i had about 120whp with the mods that i had before or very close to that... So even thinking about this right now, i'm thinking 160whp with the ignition tune. either way, i'm pretty fuckin' excited about it...
let me know what you guys think...

MessyHonda
03-06-2011, 07:48 PM
i bought my coupe off a member here and i can say that the A20 head can flow really good(port n polish with 10:1 ratio). i did the OBD1 conversion with pico and i just used a pr4 ecu that is the LS 1.8 integra computer that will rev to 7.2k and im really happy with it. stock valves springs so i never try to take it that high. the motor has proven to make 164whp but here at sea level. im sure the motor can make more if it had a good tune and better exhaust. im really excited to see your build.

hondalude86
03-06-2011, 08:52 PM
Damn, this makes me super excited messy, time to prove that we can take motors only capable of ~80whp in factory tune and double it!!!

MessyHonda
03-06-2011, 09:09 PM
yeah your thread just inspired me to finish the a20...just bought some obx headers. trying to see if i can get some bigger injectors next and trying to get it tuned so i can daily drive it without getting 22mpg. its a fun car to drive when civics pull up next to me because this is a mid14 sec car maybe high 13s once tuned

hondalude86
03-06-2011, 09:37 PM
does anyone know the head volume of our cars?

gfrg88
03-07-2011, 11:30 AM
dude!!!! I just noticed your in denver!!!! we need to get together soon, so i can check out your car!!


btw, a group of us (CO Acurazine members) have been working on putting this together, 5280fest.com check it out! :thumbup:

hondalude86
03-07-2011, 11:57 AM
Damn. I live northglenn right over by boondocks. I've got 2 2nd gens. One with a bseries swap and one that I'm currently working on along with a 1994 vtec del sol

rjudgey
03-07-2011, 02:08 PM
Not sure what the stock size is have the volumes in a old thread somewhere on pp.com of my A20 head with it shaved and the valves deshrouded and walls polished.
It's pretty easy to double up power on any ET/A series engine I think I've proven that for the last 10 years it's cracking the over 200bhp mark that really needs heavy investment, to be honest the pistons and rods are a bit overkill you can make 200bhp with pretty much stock modified internals from A20A3/4 with the higher CR ratio pistons. Thats what I'm running at the mo but std bore size, next engine will see probably a 83mm bore size now that I've seen your pistons tempted to maybe try them any chance you can get some shots of them side on and top on and maybe near a cylinder head with valves sticking out so we can see how close the pockets are to being at the correct angle etc. What make are the pistons and what bore size? A flat top piston in a std A series should easily see 10:1 CR ratio without any shaving of any sort, so those ones you have combined with some head shaving, decking should bring you up to around 11:1 maybe 11.5:1 or more if you go extreme on the head shaving like 1.5mm off it and .5mm off the deck. Can only imagine the CR ratio combined with an A18 head be looking at well over 12:1!! Would definately only be able to use high octance fuel then!!

Those rods and pistons can easily handle 9k rpm it's making the valve train take that. Would definately need some Bisi springs which would also be good at increasing valve lift although that's not so good for cam bearing wear in the head, thats the main issue with high revving A series they chew up the cam bearings in the head quite quickly, can be fixed machining in some tougher bearings but this could be a little costly, i find that stripping the rockers off every 10k and inspecting the bearings and polishing back up helps keep it a little less troublesome. Thing what i like about a well built A series just looks so unassuming, people look at it and think are just another old 4 banger probably 8 valve OHC rattles and shocks and knocks like tractor engine from the 60's (they do compared to a DOHC 16) and made worse from having to run bigger bore clearances than mild tune engine, but when you give it the beans they all look in horror as you see the air vortex's as it's being swallowed at near supersonic speeds!! Thing that really impresses me that for an old engine 1. very simple very little in the way of moving parts, 2. very little frictional losses, 3. Very light rotating mass the block has one of the lightest cranks I've ever seen no counter weights hence the rattly engine sydrome but upside is weighs nearly half the weight of a Bseries crank, the rods also are some of the lightest yet strongest I've seem mine regularily see 8k and last a long time doing so even though they've been used for 60k plus miles in a stock engine before getting polished, shot peened and balanced by me! The stock piston pins though are too heavy duty and some Patent OEM lighter ones solves that issue. What you get is a very quick revving engine and with the right cam and exhaust you also get a very high revving engine!! 8K is easy 8.5k needs a quality header and the right size mandrel bent system 9k would be achievable with a custom camshaft with the right duration and lift. Talking probably 295 degrees with 11.5mm lift maybe 12mm lift combine all of that with big valves, high CR ratio some huge bike carbs or ITB's with a lot of time on dyno and you would easily see 250bhp maybe more potentially with more custom titanium parts on the rods, pins, valves and valve train you could be looking at over 270bhp with engine peak power around 9k mark then were talking King motorsport spec which apparantly had around 345bhp although they've never emailed me back to give me any specifics in fact never even acknowledged my damn email which i think is just plain rude!! So I've been doing all this R&D on my own for so long it is really nice that you guys listen to what I say and give it a bash building up these old engines as much as others like Vtec and I do too in a way I just love these old engines as they are like the cars there in they have character!:rolleyes:

zoldrin
03-07-2011, 04:49 PM
Hey Ryan I've been doing quite a lot of research about the B16 LSD into A2K5 trans or CG trans. There is some slight clearance issues with the LSD and the outer case, but easily rectified. I am intending to do the CG internals onto the A20 bell housing with the B16 LSD. Here are two good threads on the topic:

http://www.redpepperracing.com/forum...3&#entry315473

http://www.ht-archive.com/showthread.php?t=2276278

From what I understand the normal A20 axles are compatible with either the stock CG diff or the B16 LSD diff... is this correct?

Keep us updated on the build I'm really interested, especially if/when you start playing around with LSD/Axles/Tranny.

How much were the Eagle rods by the way? What cam are you using?

H

gfrg88
03-07-2011, 05:40 PM
Damn. I live northglenn right over by boondocks. I've got 2 2nd gens. One with a bseries swap and one that I'm currently working on along with a 1994 vtec del sol

I know exactly where that's at!!! I live up literally across from Flatirons mall

hondalude86
03-07-2011, 09:54 PM
zoldrin
I got both the eagle rods and the pistons from ebay for just shy of 700 bucks plus shipping. really a killer deal.

I'm pretty pumped about the idea of the LSD, but right now, i've got my money spent very carefully, so there isn't much wiggle room.

As far as the diff idea, i'm pretty sure the internals are nearly the same enough that with the final drive on the b16 diff you can run modified axles to keep your (rather mine) base model hubs. I figured Dx outter cvs with Si inner for the trans... but i do have an A2k5 trans i could just as easily use with out the fear of it not fitting in my dx trannys... I'm def loving the idea for sure, and will probably be on my christmas list... I knew there was a reason i was keeping my Si tranny around for a reason. Also, another brain fart, rather than getting new Dx and Si axles and making one good pair it might be a better idea for me to just get Si hubs from a junk yard and new Si axles so that i could go back to the DX trans quickly if i needed, plus i wouldn't run the chance of fuckin' up the inner cv's... hmm just a thought
DUDE! i'm over in those parts all the time, because my GF's parents live in Rockcreek...

gfrg88
03-08-2011, 12:54 PM
nice!! We need to meet up sometime..

BTW, hope you can make it out to 52080fest, it's gonna be at the phat cats on westminster promenade right off 36 and 104th

hondalude86
03-08-2011, 02:34 PM
I know that place... i looked at the site the other night. I'm debating on wether or not to enter in an old skool honda in the mix of glitzy shiny nice cars... so i doubt it. but I'll definetly drive it. Either way... I'll probably be there.

hondalude86
03-08-2011, 02:35 PM
oh, BTW, i have the delta 285 regrind.

Ichiban
03-08-2011, 11:26 PM
As far as the diff idea, i'm pretty sure the internals are nearly the same enough that with the final drive on the b16 diff you can run modified axles to keep your (rather mine) base model hubs. I figured Dx outter cvs with Si inner for the trans... but i do have an A2k5 trans i could just as easily use with out the fear of it not fitting in my dx trannys... I'm def loving the idea .

I modified my 2g Accord with prelude si wheelbearings and hub flanges, I did it so I could run the teg shafts which are big spline at each end, but you could do the same thing to upgrade to one size axleshaft as well. I've tried fitting the bigger inner cups over the smaller splined guts and nothing inside lines up. Way too sloppy of a fit. Just an idea.

gfrg88
03-09-2011, 06:58 PM
I know that place... i looked at the site the other night. I'm debating on wether or not to enter in an old skool honda in the mix of glitzy shiny nice cars... so i doubt it. but I'll definetly drive it. Either way... I'll probably be there.

My 86 will be in there :D


I'll have my build thread with tons of pics up pretty soon.. Btw, most of the judges will be guys like me, that love seeing different builds, old school, underdogs, etc...of course we also love shiny new cars too :D

hondalude86
03-11-2011, 09:53 PM
Ok guys, i've got my crankshaft in the shop getting reworked... Going to set me back 155 bucks... have to hard weld the cranks rod journal that got messed up... but on the bright side its going to be perfect and new.

Got to put all my pistons together tomorrow with the rods. btw the reliefs are exactly the same and the wrist pans are dead in the middle of the piston... so it doesn't matter which order it goes in... just saying.

Also just ordered some new head studs ARP style... Got the ones for the MZR motor'd miata. no crank scraper yet, and i'm not sure what the hell is going on...

rjudgey
03-12-2011, 03:07 AM
See if you can get them to chamfer edge the oil holes on the journals will help with oil transfer onto the main bearings, you may need to tell them the crank direction of rotation though to have this done properly if they haven't a clue what I'm on about then don't bother letting them touch it!!

hondalude86
03-14-2011, 06:38 AM
I got my pistons put together Friday night!

rjudgey
03-14-2011, 10:45 AM
Have you put the rings on yet? Should check the ring end gaps are ok with the bores in the block just in case there's an issue with the sizing if too tight will cause problem if too big you'll loose lots of compression and power.

hondalude86
03-14-2011, 03:54 PM
yea, i installed them, but i know that i have to take them out and possibly file them down... but for pictures sake, here it is... crappy cell phone pic... so beware..

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_20110312_215959.jpg

rjudgey
03-15-2011, 10:21 AM
Nice!! Think I'll definately give this combo a try don't forgot to take some pics of the piston crowns near the chambers with the valves open would be nice to see how close they get to the pockets!

hondalude86
03-26-2011, 05:23 AM
Here are some more teaser cell phone pics...
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_20110325_170013.jpg

hondalude86
03-26-2011, 05:24 AM
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_20110321_213341.jpg

Hazwan
03-26-2011, 06:31 AM
Moar!

AccordB20A
03-26-2011, 01:54 PM
this is cool. good progress. it really makes me wanna do something to my own car when i see progress in a build thread.

hondalude86
03-26-2011, 04:55 PM
I'm mostly waiting on my crank scraper to put the motor together but tomorrow I'm going to size my rings install my valve springs clean out the oil pump and clean up the block/head. And hopefully watch the KY Wildcats dominate tomorrow night!

hondalude86
03-28-2011, 08:28 PM
OOOOOOOHHHHHHHH, C-A-T-S CATS CATS CATS!!! ok, so not much more progress this weekend other than the fact that UK dominated this weekend, mad props for them!!!

So Sunday, I ordered a whole slew of parts... nothing fancy, just the basics to put it together. Everything that is except the oil pump... i took the oil pump off to clean it out, and that damn thing was nearly seized up! So i'll have to order a new one.

There wasn't much progress with the motor. I took off the oil/water pump. The cam is out, the oil pressure sensor for the AEM gauge is installed, the two extra water pump bungs for the carbs were welded shut, cleaned the motor, and found out that the head bolts i ordered are the wrong ones. Got the RIGHT ones on order! Just in case anyone searches the part number you need for the ARP head bolts are...
218-4703.
I ordered from importperformance and it cost me 100 bucks. not bad at all!
Of course there wasn't much to take pics of, and the only think i did take pics of was with my camera phone, but i think you'll appreciate what 2hours and less than 45 bucks in materials can make you... in fact, 45 bucks in material could make you 3 of these...

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_20110327_170856.jpg

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_20110327_172439.jpg

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_20110327_172439.jpg

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_20110327_172445.jpg

Yes i made my own, manly sized gauge cluster... I'm planning on running the wiring through the clock opening, provided i can get back there somewhat easy... I've been back there before with my white car, so i know its possible... just a pain.

oh yea, and for my last picture, i have this massive fail...
If anyone ever wondered what the Mazda MZR head bolts look like next to the factory honda head bolts here it is...
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_20110327_195156.jpg

PARTS UPDATE...
Still have my Odyssey battery to take a picture of
No crank scraper & oil pan baffle yet (this is what is holding me up the most!!)

Need to do list...
Size my rings per cylinder...
install new valve springs...
get the rest of my ford EDIS/ megasquirt parts (cygnus?)
start the wiring craziness hopefully with the help of cygnus
tap the two exhaust manifold studs that are stripped
assemble motor... (that one is a biggie)

Parts to order...
New del sol radiator/fan (ordered)
oil pump(ordered)
??? (suggestions)

hondalude86
03-28-2011, 08:32 PM
Sorry, mac fail...

hondalude86
03-29-2011, 09:19 AM
EBay 3 core aluminum radiator with fan and shroud on order!

hondalude86
03-29-2011, 07:13 PM
HV oil pump (toga) on order

2ndGenGuy
03-30-2011, 11:08 AM
I thought you were suppose to use the Mazda B6 head studs?

hondalude86
03-30-2011, 06:44 PM
The only studs you really need are ARP head studs and you get them for a 2.0L miata part# 218-4703. and the work in the A20 engines. If your looking for turbo parts let me know I have parts like clutch setup, mani and downpipe, fuel injectors, SAFC, BTM, etc...

2ndGenGuy
03-31-2011, 09:39 AM
Hmm, that's strange. Might ask Mushroom_Toy what he used. I believe his A20 was assembled successfully just recently with ARP head studs.

hondalude86
03-31-2011, 10:33 AM
That wasn't the only post I found. Cygnus posted on several places that that was the number to use, plus tdurrs build thread had that too. I'm not asure what the miata b4 is but I do know the mzr motor was the wron one

2ndGenGuy
03-31-2011, 12:20 PM
Yep, I see that same part number referenced all over 3geez. Maybe you got shipped the wrong parts? The B6 is the 1.6 Miata engine. Same as the 1.8 as well. I'm probably wrong about it being those, as the part number does reference the 2 liter Miata engine... Unless maybe the ET2 is that much different from the A20, but I wouldn't think so...

You should e-mail ARP and give them the specs for your stock head bolts and see what they say, might have been a mis-package or the ET2 could have different size for some weird reason. They are super helpful and helped me locate a set of studs for my EK1 motor in my 81 Accord.

hondalude86
04-04-2011, 07:46 PM
The New head bolts worked, so here is a mini update...
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_3705.jpg
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_3706.jpg

Got my parts from cygnus!
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_3707.jpg
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_3708.jpg
TRIGGER WHEEL!!

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_3709.jpg
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_3710.jpg
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_3711.jpg
VR sensor bracket

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_3712.jpg
had to have my oil pickup cleaned since a new one is 80 bucks

rjudgey
04-05-2011, 07:44 AM
Lol that looks like it's seen better days! But hey at least it's inside and will never get seen! :cheers:

hondalude86
04-05-2011, 07:43 PM
hahaha, yea, the machine shop guy had one hell of a time getting it apart and then back together, but for me, it needed to be 100% and is worth the beat up apperance, and as you said before, it'll be inside! Hopefully monday, i'll get my crank scraper and oil pan baffle, the only bad part is, i don't have ANY time to work on it! school 4 nights a week, and i'm already behind. maybe i'll get lucky on friday and have some honest time to put towards it. I wanted to get some pics to keep this in my head and keep me excited... the hardest part is going to be the wiring. I've got 3 new gauges to wire up, all the megajolt stuff and tons of cleaning to do under the hood, not to mention getting the motor put together. it's literally nuts... I'll have some more money to spend on tools to finish this damn car but i'm still waiting on parts...

Toga High volume oil pump. (4/11 eta)
3core half radiator, slim fan (4/8 eta)
oil pan baffle and crank scrapers... ???

everything else is already here, i've got so many parts here, that I can hardly keep up with it all, I guess thats a good thing!!!

cygnus x-1
04-05-2011, 07:50 PM
Looking good so far! I REALLY want to see what kind of power you put down with this build. That piston rod combo looks killer!


C|

cygnus x-1
04-05-2011, 07:56 PM
On the wiring, the Megajolt part is pretty straightforward. Cleaning up the factory wiring is kind of a pain though. No real easy way to go about it though other than to just dig in and git-r-done.


C|

rjudgey
04-06-2011, 07:59 AM
Yes I can't wait as well should be pretty interesting to see what happens and must admit the piston rod combo is tempting for my next build! Definately be looking at 83mm pistons would still prefer to get some B18 piston blanks made and have the crowns machine myself but for the price you can get these it's worth a shot the CR ratio should still be pretty good. Don't forget if you get a chance to get a shot of the valves sticking out be interesting to see how close the angle is to the pockets in the piston and how far out they are.

Would really like to get forged pistons next time and a higher CR ratio if i can get upto around 12:1 with the right head and custom header and exhaust should easily be able to reach my goal of around 230-240bhp! :0)

hondalude86
04-06-2011, 02:48 PM
Crank scrapers came in today!!! Hellz Yea!

1813mdw
04-06-2011, 04:39 PM
:thumbup::thumbup:glad to see you building instead of swapping. can't wait to see the end result:nervous:

hondalude86
04-07-2011, 07:10 AM
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_3714.jpg
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_3715.jpg
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_3716.jpg

hondalude86
04-07-2011, 07:11 AM
I'm hoping to get some work done on Friday.

gfrg88
04-07-2011, 09:09 AM
what is that???

Vanilla Sky
04-07-2011, 09:25 AM
A crank scraper and an oil pan baffle.

hondalude86
04-07-2011, 06:49 PM
Thanks vanilla...
Check out the site, crank-scrapers.com.. the stuff is pretty awesome, not to mention the weld in baffle with trap door

Smeado
04-07-2011, 11:50 PM
nice work man, I am looking forward to see how this all comes together. show some pictures of the crank scrapper if you get a chance!

Smeado

gfrg88
04-08-2011, 06:20 AM
A crank scraper and an oil pan baffle.


feel like such a n00b :ugh2:

hondalude86
04-08-2011, 03:32 PM
Getting a proper valve spring compressor tonight and a file and hopefully will have some updates. Only update I've got for You is I'm pooping while texting this. This butt gravy sounds like I'm going in to vtec!

gfrg88
04-08-2011, 06:31 PM
:rofl:

MessyHonda
04-08-2011, 11:59 PM
looking good

hondalude86
04-09-2011, 08:20 AM
Hahaha, well last night i found out a couple of things... First thing i found out is I'm getting a free valve spring compressor, so i can return the one i just bought. So since i didn't get to work on my head, i figured i'd start filing my rings... that's when i checked my bore... the pistons i pulled out where .040 over, and somehow some time ago, i figure that must have an 81mm bore. Well, i just so turns out, that my bore is still 80mm... How this happened, i have no idea. So i have to get my block rebored... Grrrr... but on the bright side, what i saved in this valve spring compressor will Almost pay for engine work, but on the much dimmer side, i set the rings on almost all of my motor before i realized that i should probably check to make sure the piston will actually fit, which it wont. The skirt on the piston alone were 80.88 mm or something like that. So that also means i have to buy all new rings, but the good thing is, they won't have to be file fitted... Oh wellz... I'm a dumbass

MessyHonda
04-09-2011, 09:09 AM
well its better than bigger bore...same thing happen to me...had to take it back the the machine shop to bore it a lil more

hondalude86
04-09-2011, 12:03 PM
Hopefully if i get done with my calculus test i can get some more work done. Like weld in the oil pan baffle and change my valves out. I've got 2 leaky intake valves and one leaky exhuast valve that i've got to lap some... get the rust off of the face from sitting for nearly a year

rjudgey
04-11-2011, 05:51 AM
you should still hand gap the rings to the bores still! lol! so get 82mm rings and file em down!

hondalude86
04-15-2011, 03:53 PM
I'm smelling an update this weekend... ;)

gfrg88
04-15-2011, 04:40 PM
Yo, I have a question for you.. do you ever go out to the ricer hang outs up on 120th?? the sonics?? or kings?? anything on Friday nights?? I really, really wanna see your car!! I need some kind of inspiration to keep working on my car lol

hondalude86
04-15-2011, 04:52 PM
I could meet you at sonic tonight? I rarely hang out at those places. Text (303)562-8716if you want

hondalude86
04-15-2011, 08:03 PM
phones dead, but heading up there anyway... i won't stay too long, but i will be driving my white cars

gfrg88
04-15-2011, 09:37 PM
Was there but didn't see no ludes..

CU car show tomorrow up in boulder, I'll be there..

hondalude86
04-15-2011, 09:40 PM
damn, i didn't think about the fact that i didn't mention what sonic i was at. I was at the sonic on federal. there wasn't much going on when i got there. most everyone kinda fizzled out. i'm not hip in the car scene, you should PM what people are usually doing or where you kids go to hang out... hahaha

hondalude86
04-15-2011, 09:47 PM
I'm tired so here are some teaser pics...
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_3786.jpg
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_3767.jpg
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_3774.jpg

hondalude86
04-16-2011, 08:07 AM
One of the things i got done last night was the valve springs... so here are some pictures from that!!!

The Valve springs... stock exhaust on the left, stock intake middle, and Bisi Springs on the right.
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_3734.jpg
Taking off the exhuast spring.
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_3735.jpg
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_3736.jpg
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_3737.jpg
Preparing for the valve lappage...
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_3738.jpg
Valve grinding compound being applied
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_3742.jpg
Lapping!!
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_3743.jpg
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_3747.jpg
Mega Concentration!!
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_3748.jpg

hondalude86
04-16-2011, 08:07 AM
Last Pair of Bisi Springs be added!
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_3752.jpg
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_3754.jpg
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_3756.jpg
Keeps installed AAAANNNNNDDDD relax...
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_3758.jpg
Me and my FREE valve spring compressor!!!
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_3759.jpg
Me and my photographer...
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_3760.jpg
checking the valve install
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_3764.jpg
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_3765.jpg

hondalude86
04-16-2011, 08:08 AM
Artsy emo pics!
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_3766.jpg
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_3767.jpg
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_3768.jpg
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_3772.jpg

hondalude86
04-16-2011, 08:10 AM
Next Project! Oil pan baffle!

Cleaning the paint for the weld in baffle!
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_3773.jpg
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_3777.jpg
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_3778.jpg

Dry fit...
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_3779.jpg

Before...
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_3780.jpg
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_3784.jpg

hondalude86
04-16-2011, 08:12 AM
Fire up the Hobart!
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_3785.jpg
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_3785.jpg
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_3788.jpg
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_3790.jpg

After...
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_3792.jpg
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_3793.jpg

hondalude86
04-16-2011, 08:20 AM
And lastly, dry fit with the big (little) radiator
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_3725.jpg
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_3726.jpg
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_3727.jpg
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_3728.jpg

Side by side comparison
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_3729.jpg
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_3730.jpg
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_3731.jpg

Notice the inlet/outlets are perfect!
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_3732.jpg
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_3733.jpg

hondalude86
04-23-2011, 07:02 AM
So the machine shop accidentally overbored the 4th cylinder .003s so that cylinder has to be bored out abd then resleeved. $uck!

gfrg88
04-23-2011, 08:26 AM
So the machine shop accidentally overbored the 4th cylinder .003s so that cylinder has to be bored out abd then resleeved. $uck!

fuccck.. shit sucks man..

rjudgey
04-26-2011, 11:16 AM
whats that in mm? sure you can't just use bigger rings? if they are forged pistons which i think they are you might be ok they have to have bigger piston to bore gap any way than stock cast pistons as they expand a lot more when hot.

2ndGenGuy
04-26-2011, 02:33 PM
Can you resleeve a cast iron block...?

hondalude86
04-26-2011, 05:33 PM
well, of course with me and the golden horse shoe that's up my ass, i got my block back sat afternoon. He re-sleeved the block sat morning and had it ready to go for me. I didn't get to do more than bring it home being easter weekend and all, but i can say, it looks great. He even machined the rod reliefs at the end of the cylinder...

Rich, btw .003in is .0762mm. and with gap at .028 vs .020 for the second ring thats a dif of .2032mm, which i believe is a bit excessive. the block looks good, and hopefully i'll be able to get some work done on it this weekend, but no promises since i've got a Calc test monday and a Calc final a week from that. ITs pretty intense around here really, that plus a new puppy in my apt!

HON-DUH
04-26-2011, 06:16 PM
looking great! You seem to know what you are doing! :thumbup:

Just got a noob question though, are there any advantages by switching to a smaller radiator?

Thanks

hondalude86
04-28-2011, 06:33 PM
Not much other than weight savings and it frees up some space for a loud spinny thingy. This Rad should perform at least as good as the stock one if not better.

hondalude86
05-02-2011, 07:55 PM
So here are some pics first, but there will be a bitch thread.

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_3830.jpg

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_3829.jpg

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_3828.jpg

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_3827.jpg

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_3826.jpg

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_3825.jpg

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_3824.jpg

hondalude86
05-02-2011, 08:49 PM
So basically it looks like if you wanted to run the crank scarper you have to be running stock rods... I'm going to email this guy and see what he says, but there is no way its going to fit without spacers, and there is no way thats going to work without new main bolts.

EDIT: here is the Email to give you guys an idea what i'm dealing with...

"Well, I have to say that I'm VERY VERY disappointed with this product. The fitment was garbage to start. I had to file down two of my main caps to get the piece level, then i found out that the bolts for the oil pump pick up BARELY fit, I literally had to install those bolts first then the rest of the main cap bolts to get them to actually go. Then of course like you had in your picture directions, there might be some (try LOTS) grinding away to get the clearance for the counter weights. So i used my die grinder and after several hours, got the metal parts finally clearing the counter weights on all 4 cylinders... Then I checked my rod clearance, NOT GOING TO CLEAR AT ALL. What the Hell guys... I got put on the back burner, waited months for a product that was only suppose to take weeks, and then even with major modding to clear the counter weights, there isn't enough modding that could be done to clear my rods... The only way i could halfway seeing this piece fitting my motor is if use spacers to space the piece out enough to clear the rod caps with minimal grinding, but in order to do that, my oil pump pickup wouldn't fit (since it gets bolted to the top of this piece) and i would with out a doubt need longer Main Cap bolts, something that was not mentioned in your instructions. At this point, unless there is something huge i'm missing, I want to send this scraper back and get my 200 dollars back. I don't see a way that A) you can make this right, and B) how i'd be willing to wait on anything less than a full refund.
I will be totally honest with you guys, this was the part i was THE most excited about... This is a HUGE let down."

we'll see what he has to say

Vanilla Sky
05-03-2011, 09:41 AM
I know that scrapers are supposed to be fitted to your motor, but if bolt holes were off, that's pretty poor craftsmanship. I thin EricW has one of their scrapers, but his was of pretty good quality.

And it's good to see another guy on here with long blonde hair, lol.

hondalude86
05-03-2011, 02:47 PM
So... here is the series of emails from kevin today...

-"Hi Ryan,

I am sorry that you had to spend so long fitting the scraper. There are often variances in how factory parts are made that we cannot anticipate.* However, if you can see that something will take hours and hours of grinding you should have stopped there, taken some pictures of the problem and emailed them to us. We send out adjusted parts at no charge and try to do this very quickly.

Please send pictures that illustrate what needs to be altered and we will send adjusted parts at no charge.

* See attached pictures of just one instance of casting variation.

Kind regards,

Kevin"

-"Ill see what I can do pictures wise tonight but what kind of turn around are we talking because I've already waited 3 months for you guys and I'm doubting we are talking a week turn around. The Max I'm talking I want to hold this motor up another up is a few weeks."

-"I spent the majority of today preparing a new frame based on your description. It should arrive by noon tomorrow. The tracking number (USPS) is xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx.

Pics attached."

Vanilla Sky
05-03-2011, 02:52 PM
So are they sending you a new scraper frame?

hondalude86
05-03-2011, 03:02 PM
Here's the pics of what he is sending...

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/STA72302.jpg

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/STA72300.jpg

vs what i have...

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_3714.jpg

It looks like he thinned out the part where the rods come in and the counter weights go...

hondalude86
05-03-2011, 03:33 PM
my email back to him...

"I'm am SUPER IMPRESSED with the instant service... Looking at the one your sending looks like you've opened the pieces ALOT. Definately looks like the counter weights will clear and you've cut the rod section in half! I'm pretty stoked... Again, this is my most exciting part, and despite all the bumps in the road, I am very VERY happy that you did this to help make it right. I guess my I let my frustrations get the best of me, and for that sir, i am very sorry. When i get the new one, I'll bolt it up, with the rods and everything and take some pictures and send them to you right away!
Again, your excellent service and wowed me once again.
Thanks"

rjudgey
05-04-2011, 05:36 AM
lol that put you in your place! hehe! Just out of interest what was it you were grinding to try and make it fit? I hope it wasn't the crankshaft? Otherwise it may have weakened it or at best made it go out of balance and you'll have to have it balanced again. Post a pic of what you hacked up?

To be fair honda did change a few things but only mainly between ET and A18/20 wonder what they based their original design on? Be interesting to see if this one fits any better i hope it does would be a shame not to use it!

hondalude86
05-04-2011, 02:05 PM
I actually grinded on the frame itself, no way in hell that i'd be grinding on the crank shaft!

He shipped it overnight, and has been delivered, not sure if i'll get to pick it up in time to take it over to my car to see if it fits better!

rjudgey
05-05-2011, 05:03 AM
few thats a relief didn't think you'd be that silly lol!

hondalude86
05-15-2011, 07:17 PM
So outside of the working on the Coupe... i spent some time working on the motor... And let me tell ya, that scraper has taken up sooo much time!
I spent about 6 hours fitting the scraper to the motor today... and the good news is, Its all together, Finally! I didn't have my good camera but i did take some pictures that i think will help you guys get an idea of what i had to go through.

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_20110515_184717.jpg
Had to file down this corner... and bend the secondary scraper as well as file it down too

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_20110515_184727.jpg
Had to cut the ends off of the side baffle that goes under the oil pump pick up. You can see in the background what the original one looks like before its cut.

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_20110515_184734.jpg
File the fuck out of this corner... literally a shit ton...

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_20110515_184738.jpg
overhead shot of this corner... look at the original in an earlier post, and you'll see what i'm talking about.

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_20110515_184743.jpg
Hard to tell, but i filled the snot out of this corner too, as well as bent the secondary scraper and filed it bunches as well...

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_20110515_184748.jpg
Side shot of the same corner where you can see the bent tab and the filings

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_20110515_184808.jpg
here is an overhead shot of one of the better cylinders with the scraper formed...

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_20110515_184815.jpg
notched for the oil dipstick
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_20110515_184823.jpg
wouldn't go into the oil pan other wise...(and if you look to the right you can see the notch for the rod bolts...

hondalude86
05-15-2011, 07:25 PM
Now for the pics, 4 of which show the notching for the rod bolts...
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_20110515_184829.jpg
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_20110515_185039.jpg
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_20110515_185043.jpg
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_20110515_185048.jpg

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_20110515_194252.jpg
Finally oil pan on! sorry, for some reason i didn't take an overall shot with the pick up on.
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_20110515_194317.jpg

So there ya go... the scraper is a serious bitch to get it to fit!

87roach
05-15-2011, 09:16 PM
What a load of work.. glad you made it fit though.

rjudgey
05-16-2011, 03:55 AM
wow what a nightmare! At least the block is finally together though! Did you have to modify the teflon scraper as well hope you managed to clean up some of those bits that were hanging off don't won't those getting stuck up the oil pickup and reducing oil flow.

Just out of interest the Felpro gasket you got was that bought recently? When Cygnus-x1 tried to get me some of those they were the usual cheap crap that most patent manufacturers use, but people who have bought these recently have had the felpro ones with the bigger bore??? So I'm confused as to whether these are still in production or out of production? I'd very much like to get some more so I can still continue to use my ET blocks with 2.0litre pistons and use ET1 heads.

rjudgey
05-23-2011, 06:35 AM
Is it running yet! we want a update! lol!

Hoping to be building a killer B20A soon! should be fun! Can't wait to see what a big valve, high compression B20A on Webers can do! :0)

gfrg88
05-23-2011, 08:47 AM
I think he's been out of town, so don't think there's been much more progress :dunno:

rustlude87
05-23-2011, 10:35 AM
Yep he left for Kentucky for a week and stayed at my place on Friday :)

hondalude86
05-24-2011, 07:55 PM
Yep, in ky right now. So yeah not much progress, ill be back in colorado for a week then to atlanta for some training!

rjudgey
05-25-2011, 01:18 AM
Just cleared out all my engine parts from my God Parents garage/workshop to my garage after i managed to clear out a load of crap from it. Making me want to build something new and rather special now! Although I'm in process of getting a Killer B20A together! Unfortunately their old garage leaked water ontop of my spare B20A lower block and rusted out the bores a little, it's only surface but I'll have to fully strip and rehone the bores and drop new rings in to be able to use which is a PITA was hoping to have one that was just plug and play for spares! :( Oh well I have another one in a car still just needs new sump so maybe I'll use that for the plug and play engine while i build the crap outta this one for 250bhp!! :)

hondalude86
06-07-2011, 04:10 PM
Alright, so everyone is probably trying to figure out what the hell is up with the lude! We'll as you guys may already know, i was in KY a couple of weeks ago, and even right now, i'm in Atlanta doing some training all week for work. I did get some work done, but the car is still loads away from running, It's starting to sound like Gio is going to have a boosted a20 running before i get my built et2 running...

Anyway, I got the oil pump on, the studs back in, waterpump on and the head cleaned up and bolted on. Nothing too crazy, being that when i went over to the garage to work on the lude, I ended up helping my dad replace the rear brakes, and tire on his HD Vrod!

rjudgey
06-14-2011, 02:10 AM
Got any pics of the old mans motor sounds interesting!
Well now that your back just got on with it will ya! lol! ;o)
While I'm here you or rusty got any decent pics of the stock shocks front and rear, and any dimensions?
I have a UK Company called GAZ shocks they reckon they might be able to make us up a coilover setup for cheap so hoping they can as their letting me have the first mockup set of £350 for sponsoring my race car! :0)

rustlude87
06-14-2011, 12:28 PM
Rich what dimensions were you looking for on those shocks? I have a set I can measure.

rjudgey
06-14-2011, 01:25 PM
Just general body sizes and piston rod sizes and the fittings. Any pics of just the shock would be ace email me [email protected]

mainly after shock body length, the diameter where they fit into the hub/fork, shock rod length to fitting, and then the fitting length and diameter although this isn't amazingly important as I'm sure we could make it work with a combination of washers and stuff etc.! lol!

Excited though hope they find something similar I'm sure they'll dig out something for the Rex on the front and then hopefully something they can modify for the rear. Going to pop down there one day and have a good nose about they've been really helpful so far in trying to work something out!

hondalude86
06-25-2011, 03:23 PM
okay here is the update from today, the first time ive gotten to work on this thing in a month!

first picture of head bolted on, and cleaned out really good!
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_20110625_115643.jpg

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_20110625_115656.jpg
h2o sensor installed with a 3/8s mpt to 1/8s fpt reducer

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_20110625_115706.jpg
initial motor shot before the goodies got thrown on.

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_20110625_142603.jpg
cam in, timing belt set, but still valve lash not done and the VC isn't bolted down...

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_20110625_142611.jpg
front at this point...

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_20110625_142619.jpg
you can see the new AEM oil pressure sending unit here, as well as the flywheel...

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_20110625_155814.jpg
notice now the motor mount bracket is on, as WELL as the bracket for the Mag pickup

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_20110625_155821.jpg
valve lash now set, the VC is actually installed, and a good shot of the mag pickup

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_20110625_155827.jpg
money shot of the mag pickup

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_20110625_155841.jpg
clutchnet lightweight flywheel!

gfrg88
06-26-2011, 05:38 AM
seks.

87roach
06-26-2011, 07:52 AM
Nice, look's like a great day for it too.

Are you not going to put the timing belt cover on?

hondalude86
06-26-2011, 08:10 AM
No sir I do not

Christofur
06-26-2011, 09:24 AM
Dang that thing is gonna be sweet cant wait to see it run. :cheers:

hondalude86
06-26-2011, 06:36 PM
ok, here is the final update for the weekend... Long story short, the motor and trans are together and ready to go!!! let the pics begin!

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_20110626_103623.jpg
some cp.com luv

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_20110626_105639.jpg
motor off of stand!

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_20110626_105651.jpg

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_20110626_110918.jpg
flywheel all bolted up, loctited and cleaned! Clutchnet luv

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_20110626_110926.jpg
clutchnet srung kevlar disc

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_20110626_110934.jpg
fancy sprung hub

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_20110626_110942.jpg
lightly used clutchnet pressure plate (their 2x model)

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_20110626_112443.jpg
all bolted up and torqued/loctited

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_20110626_141941.jpg
waiting to be installed in the car

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_20110626_141959.jpg

I'd say the biggest bitch today was retapping a stripped bolt that was in my trans. the went from a m10x1.25 to a m12x1.50! that same bolt is stripped on my white prelude too, and my motor moved lots because of it! now, this is all fixed and hopefully wont strip again. I measure the thread depth (after tapping it) at 23mm. So i went UBER safe with a 40mm length cut down to 21mm and of course loctite.

hondalude86
06-26-2011, 07:33 PM
so i have been giving it some thought as far as a vacuum canister to balance out the pulses of my motor as well as for a good solid MAP signal for the MJLJ. so i think i'm going to use the factory vacuum canister that works with the ac controls, except i'm going to tap into it for the vacuum source, leave the one for the ac controls and then have the extra "inlet" and us it as an "outlet" for the MAP sensor in the MJLJ! genius! I can even use it in the factory location and it will be perfect!

gfrg88
06-27-2011, 12:27 PM
Looks awesome!!! Btw, you fucking took my idea with the CP sticker on VC :squint:

Hit me up if you need any help throwing that bad boy in there :thumbup:

hondalude86
06-27-2011, 02:14 PM
Btw, you fucking took my idea with the CP sticker on VC :squint:


Pics or it didn't happen, hahahaha! ;)

hondalude86
06-27-2011, 02:16 PM
i was thinking about my project build sheet on the motor alone, and its ridiculous! fuck!

gfrg88
06-27-2011, 03:14 PM
Pics or it didn't happen, hahahaha! ;)

in the process of shaving it first :chainsaw:

rjudgey
06-28-2011, 01:40 PM
Nice work dude glad it's all coming together can't wait to see what figures you put down on this bad boy!! Be interesting to see what a high CR ratio can do as all my builds have been very low CR if i combine the both could result in some magic numbers!!
Really giving me itchy engine building fingers! damn i hate not having enough time!!

hondalude86
07-02-2011, 10:16 PM
so it's 11:48pm here in Northglenn CO as i type this...

July 4th weekend came with a having to work Sat and Monday on what would have been a 3 day weekend, but being i took a 3 day weekend for memorial day, I am the Supervisor that was voluntold to work this whole weekend. So, I am literally sitting here with my pup, dreaming about finishing this Car. I just re-read this whole thing all over again, to truly appreciate how insane this is, and how much has been done/purchased for this project.
Remembering all the parts so far up till now. The long frustrating nights getting no where, the hours spent on the Teflon scraper, and the amazing satisfaction of having the motor done. I'm so excited about this car and at the same time disappointed in the fact that i'm not done with this car.

Hell, to further add to the hold up on getting this car done is the fact that my mom's side of the family threw a reunion together literally in 3 weeks. I've seen family members i've not seen in 10+yrs. Yet, another hold up...

So i dug this up from PP.com (which I hate)



hey smeado, i havent bought the gauge yet, but it is my next tuning purchase. My new moto is no more jets without a wideband!

As far as recent progress... I finally got the full suspension done...minus all new bushings, how ever there are some new poly bushings in place. Top strut bushings in poly, radius rod bushings in poly and rear strut top bushings {rubber:(}. New konis front and rear, Addco rear 19mm sway bar, stock front still (going to try it out see if i like it), steering wheel, seat, harness and harness bar

Basically if i had a mod sheet list of INSTALLED parts on Race day it would look something like this...

Engine:
Rebuilt ET2 with all new internals
Delta 282 w/11mm of lift regrind
Golden Eagle Adjustable Cam Gear
S&S header
Dual DCOE 45s mounted on a custom Manifold
PiperCross 30mm Full radius velocity stacks
32 inches of 2.25 exhaust/cherry bomb muffler with turn down

Electrical:
MSD SCI ignition box
Blaster SS Coil
Odyssey battery
NGK Wires
NGK Platinum plugs
Oil Pressure/ voltage/ fuel pressure/ engine temp gauges
Stock stereo with Polk audio rears and Infinity front speakers (came with the car)
Mr Gasket Fuel Pump and regulator

Suspension: (my favorite part)
Poly Radius rod bushings, upper strut mount bushings
Koni yellow adjustable fronts
Koni Externally adjustable insert rears
Eibach Race Springs, 500lbs front, 600lbs rear
Addco 19mm rear sway bar with poly bushings
Adjustable spring perches
Extended Top hats

Brakes:
Si Master Cylinder
Si front brake calipers
Stainless steel brake lines
Hawk HPS front pads

Interior:
Sparco Seat
Momo 300mm steering wheel
Ebay B Pillar brace
Simpson 3inch 4point latch link harness

Wheels/tires:
15x8 +20mm TR motorsport wheels
Hoosier A6 275/35/r15 front, 225/45/r15 rear

Something like that! I just got the tires mounted today and tomorrow i'll be scrubbing them in, so i'll try and take pictures of the car...
The best part is with the stock wheels on it (13x5 +50mm offset accord wheels) it looks totally stock. When you fire the motor up, everyone looks around thinking what the fuck? It is a totally stock looking car that sounds like a fire belching monster... with a slight cam lobe to let you know that there is something lurking beneath the faded paint hood.


i added up my cost into the car, and its about 6670 dollars to recreate this car minus that actual cost of the car, since i've gotten for free!
That doesnt count the hours and countless hours to find parts that really dont exist plus all the stupid bullshit, like alternators and gaskets and such

of course this list has grown loads since i posted this more than a year ago. Some of the stuff (motor internals) weren't what I thought they were, some of the other parts (tires, suspension) got heavily abused by my always faithful b16 prelude and will return of course, and the car's current state is most aweful... I've realized that i've probably spent close to 11k on a car that has only driven 800 miles in the last 8 years. hahaha

But all that is going to change... within the next few months... This fucker is going to be one fire breathing, monster. all the work that has gone into this car over the last 8 years, all the parts sourced from all over the world, all the insight, the new and constant developments, have made for one very awesome ride. Reading on PP reminds me of why i'm on 3geez. Walking out to my Stable of Hondas (2 2nd gen preludes, 1 3rd gen accord, and a 500hp del sol) make me happy every day.

I feel like i'm filled with an angst that i've not experienced since my teenage years. The thoughts of things to still be done... the other issues on my other cars, the things i have to spend money on that don't go directly to the Red Lude, the distractions, the misunderstandings of emotion, the everything that has slowed this down are only further frustrating me.

But I have a vision...

One car. A nightmarish terror. Bleching flames from it's undercarriage. Any women that looks at it imagines she will receive tetanus. A car that makes women fell as if they have been violated by being in just it's presence. Any child that sees or hears it driving near them will cry in angry fits of discomfort. Any man that sees it will be intimidated, will wonder, will inquire from what hellish metal was this nightmare forged from. Any competitor will try and find something to fault it for. Will never measure themselves against it for fear of feeling inadequate. I want this car to be the very car that Fear born. This has become my long term goal with this car. This car will be a delight to drive and a true blessing to be apart of. This car is my best interpretation of my lesser known self. A mixture of ill conceived notions.

It's now 12:14am and I'm going to post this. No editing, seat of my pants typing... and a lust for terror.

http://hphotos-sjc1.fbcdn.net/hs378.snc3/24190_800237994610_12900865_43422422_8312662_n.jpg

89T
07-02-2011, 10:47 PM
when will you be in fountain again? ppir..

hondalude86
07-03-2011, 04:11 AM
Not really sure but I could always make a special trip... why do you ask?

rjudgey
07-04-2011, 05:04 AM
Damn was hoping to see pics of it in and running! :(
Ah Oh well getting there slowly but surely won't be long!

Speaking of fire belching monsters took mine out for a much over due spin after i fixed the oil pan leak again (still need a new pan gasket and to glue it on properly this time! lol!) Yes really miss driving this car more often, but really hate the fact it's slowly losing it's battle to rust! although it does make the car lighter! lol!
Still an absolute beast to drive but with the weather a good 15 degrees warmer can really feel the difference in power lost at least 5-10bhp i reckon and really need to get this exhaust done and get my A18 big valve head back on to up the compression to something sensible although no where near as high as what yours is going to be with B16/18 pistons! Can't wait to see this thing tuned properly and what numbers it's going to get!
What jets and stuff you going with on the webers to get it running? Would have thought something similar to mine should work nicely let me know if you need a hand with this.
Be also interesting to see how it works with the Megajolt ignition system versus mine with the modified stock setup, would really like to run the B16/18 pistons as well but just feel the stock rods and pistons work pretty nice if only they were bit lighter and forged and had one less valve pocket on the exhaust side! lol! Once I've done the head swap and finally get an exhaust done not sure what else to do apart from ignition upgrade. Maybe look at custom profile cam one with more lift and possibly bit more duration other than that it is what it is. Might be time to go all out on a B20A and see which one puts down nicer power and curves.

gfrg88
07-06-2011, 11:25 AM
we need a CO meet soon :D

Smeado
07-06-2011, 01:32 PM
Ryan, excellent job with the build. I love the pictures.


we need a CO meet soon :D

I'm living here in the C.O. now too. too bad my prelude is still in TX. If I can get it up here and running decent, I would totally join in.

Smeado

rjudgey
07-07-2011, 04:01 AM
Ryan just a couple of q's
Did you do any mods to the head at all? blend throats into seats, new seats cut and valves backcut to suit 3 angle seat?
Also what bore size did you go for with the B series pistons?
Can't wait for this to be up and running CR ratio should be pretty high and having a good induction and exhaust setup should see some pretty nice numbers!

gfrg88
07-08-2011, 08:39 AM
Ryan, excellent job with the build. I love the pictures.



I'm living here in the C.O. now too. too bad my prelude is still in TX. If I can get it up here and running decent, I would totally join in.

Smeado

NICE!!! glad to see some more co peeps here!! Make sure to come out our car show 5280fest.com

hondalude86
07-10-2011, 02:23 PM
Ryan just a couple of q's
Did you do any mods to the head at all? blend throats into seats, new seats cut and valves backcut to suit 3 angle seat?
Also what bore size did you go for with the B series pistons?
Can't wait for this to be up and running CR ratio should be pretty high and having a good induction and exhaust setup should see some pretty nice numbers!

Hey Rich,

To answer "finally right?" your questions, I have not done ANY work to the heads at all, NONE. The only thing that I have done north of the deck is install the Bisimoto dual valve springs. My theory on the head is this... Less money spent on the heads, equals more money for suspension, turbo, LSD...
The head was rebuilt before, so the valves, valve seats, retainers, and keepers are all NEW. But, i've not done anything or checked to see if its been milled down at all.

As far as pistons go, I went with the 81mm b18a/b pistons, that are rated for 10.7:1. I could have gotten some weisco that were rated at 11.5:1 but I didn't want to chance not being able to run turbo or being forced to run only E85. The long term goal with the car is 300whp/300(ish)lbs of torque on a small ball bearing quick spooling turbo with a blow through setup. My goal is NOT to see how much I can get out of an NA motor. So use this as just a reference of how much farther you can Actually go with these motors with larger valves and better head flow (which will be compromised in about 10k miles) hahahah

hondalude86
07-11-2011, 08:26 PM
So this week, i'm going to try and work on the lude as much as possible without spending any money. Fortunately for me, i've got plenty to do!

Rich, your going to happy about this part of my day...

No more <2" collector!!!
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_20110711_180528.jpg
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_20110711_180545.jpg
Ball joint i'm going to miss!
Cut off the joint, cut back to match the diameter of the 2.25inch pipe, then filed, flushed up, and welded this longer than needed piece to the header!
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_20110711_185324.jpg
here is a pic of it all welded up. Still need to drill the O2 bung.

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_20110711_193506.jpg
This is my total exhaust minus the turn down and mandrels/flanges to connect 100%

Then I went to the interior!!!
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_20110711_194831.jpg
random wiring pulled out, my hand for refrence on the size of this stuff... imagine this stuffed under the lower dash garnish.

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_20110711_193849.jpg
old gauges out...

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_20110711_193939.jpg
New AEM gauges vs the Smaller Sunpro Gauges... $550 vs $40, still not sure if the extra money was worth it, yet!

After that, I pulled the dash Nearly out, and removed the A/C evap core and cleared the way to run the wiring down through the clock area. No pictures do to the darkness and family stopping by to distract me! I'll get more pics when I go over there next!

rjudgey
07-12-2011, 06:38 AM
Nice thats 100bhp there alone! lol! ;o)

hondalude86
07-12-2011, 06:56 PM
hahaha, no kidding. The stock collector barely measures 2" and i do mean barely, and i'm pretty sure it goes smaller than 2" for a bit... It'll be interesting to feel the difference.

The exhaust is going to be a bit smoother than before with the welding ability vs last year and my clamp on retardedness...

89T
07-12-2011, 07:55 PM
we need a CO meet soon :D


Not really sure but I could always make a special trip... why do you ask?

kinda what i was getting at.

rjudgey
07-13-2011, 12:56 AM
Main thing is to keep it all 2.25" with mandrel bends

gfrg88
07-13-2011, 08:36 PM
Btw, all you CO peeps have got to come out and show some support for our car show!!! Jerry and Ryan, you both NEED to sign up and enter the show :D

hondalude86
07-15-2011, 04:18 PM
Alright mates, I've got my mount adapters in, now i just gotta order me up some gm tranny mounts

hondalude86
07-16-2011, 05:17 AM
ok, i did a shit ton wiring related last night...

for starters, i got my mount adapters from cygnus yesterday so first the pics of those little guys...

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_20110715_213604.jpg
compared to the stock mounts

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_20110715_213618.jpg

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_20110715_213707.jpg
Installed in the back mount locations...

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_20110715_213715.jpg

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_20110715_213928.jpg
both of the mounts measured exactly the same height, which happened to be 78mm

I only happened to get one gm tranny mount because the autozone i was in at happened to only have one mount, but i had to take pics today and have this to show you guys!

Also spent lots of time trying to wire up and route all my wiring for the gauges so here is a cute little preview video!

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/th_VID_20110716_004945.jpg (http://s180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/?action=view&current=VID_20110716_004945.mp4)

I've ran everything through the clock, the only wire i need to reattach is the Dimmer light. I tried to use the four wires from the clock, but i couldn't get if to work right, so i just used the ground for it and ended up running the power from the fuse box.

Today i've got to drive down to south denver and pick up a brake master cylinder for the Del Slow, so i'll pick up another tranny mount. All this will leave me is the drilling and welding of the O2 bung, the wiring for the MJLJ and the ford EDIS parts, then it's MOTOR INSTALL TIME! Oh yea, and weld up some brackets for the radiator.

hondalude86
07-17-2011, 07:48 PM
Got the gauges wired up 100% and the EDIS wired up 100% and the mega jolt wired up 100%. Twas a super long day

87roach
07-17-2011, 09:27 PM
Good job man, it must be a good feeling to get it wired up. God I can only hope for my day haha.

What did you torque your head nuts to?

hondalude86
07-18-2011, 10:50 AM
There wasn't a recommended torque from arp like the rod bolts so I torqued them to spec.

hondalude86
07-18-2011, 01:28 PM
Ok guys, I'm going to continue to bust this little car out, tonight I'm going to put the dash back together now the the wiring is done! I honestly think doing all the EDIS/megajolt wiring in one shot is the way to do it. Today I need to mount the radiator and fans and get all my vacuum parts sorted and hooked up. To even better that I need to try and find a cam plug for the dizzy hole... any suggestions? Other than that I may be able to get this little diddy started soon!

rjudgey
07-19-2011, 01:08 AM
Talk to Cygnus he used some commonly available plug for something or other that he just lightly tapped into place with a mallet. Send him a mail.

gfrg88
07-20-2011, 05:39 PM
There wasn't a recommended torque from arp like the rod bolts so I torqued them to spec.

Which would be??? I torqued mine down to 65-ft lbs.

rjudgey
07-21-2011, 01:16 AM
recommended is a lowly 49lbft isn't it? I do mine at about 60-65 too

cygnus x-1
07-21-2011, 10:12 AM
Just noticed you used that plate under the poly mount. I actually didn't use it, thinking that the factory mount would actually sink with the weight of the engine, making it a little shorter. But it probably doesn't much matter honestly.

Can't remember what torque I used for the ARP studs. Something like 60lb-ft sounds right.

And for the dizzy plug, check the local hardware stores for expandable rubber plugs. They would be in the aisle with all the bins of fasteners and stuff. The plug has a bolt through it that makes the plug expand when it's tightened. This works better than anything else I've been able to find.


C|

hondalude86
07-21-2011, 01:52 PM
badass i know exactly what your talking about!!!

The plate is was described as a preload plate for the motor mount itself. seemed kinda important for the plate to operate to me, so i figured, what the hell, doesn't make it that much taller.

So last night, i got my dash all put back together and i got my vacuum canister worked out for the mega jolt. Just used the stock vacuum box that normally runs the HVAC controls from the stock carb setup. It even has a nifty latch location for it to fit super snug!

So i'm still left with the radiator and adjusting (modding) the hood for the radiator, plugging the dizzy hole, fluids, shit!!! I'm so close!! i think honestly i can get this thing started this weekend!
Enough talking, here are a few pics that I took the last couple of times, really nothing to exciting!

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_5453.jpg
Here is the front mount without the GM tranny mount bolted to it. (sorry cygnus, but i had to open one of the holes up a little with a small rat tail file)

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_5454.jpg
Had to take off the vibration dampener off of the crossmember to get the adapter to fit, which was totally fine. but here is the mount with the GM tranny mount in the front.

So basically, i'm mounted up!

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_5456.jpg
I went with an 1/8 hb to 1/8mpt on the vacuum canister. I'm going to run two runners to the each other, then join them, and only have two coming to the vacuum box. leaving one top outlet going to the HVAC (it won't work super perfect because there isn't going to be a check valve going to the canister, and i can see having the vacuum canister running the HVAC controls with tune, so may have to run a separate canister for the HVAC controls with a one way valve.) and the other Top outlet going to the mega jolt.

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_5457.jpg

hondalude86
07-21-2011, 07:05 PM
So here is the update for the day...

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_20110721_182350.jpg
brackets for the rad mount

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_20110721_182358.jpg

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_20110721_184118.jpg
Holes drilled for the pegs

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_20110721_192245.jpg
welded into place with some shitty flux core wire

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_20110721_201143.jpg
Radiator mounted, with the front rad support cut... I have another laying around i think, and i'm going to redo it...


http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_20110721_201156.jpg
Again, the rad mounted... I added a 3/8ths thickness rods and tacked it in to add some ridgidity...

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_20110721_201206.jpg
the lower mounts, with some insulators for some spacing...

And in case if anyone is wondering, it clears the hood with out modding the hood at all!

We also cleaned the fuck out of the engine bay! Also got all the nessasary vacuum tubing for the rest of the setup, and the plug for the dizzy.

All I have left to do is drain the gas tank, and put the fuckin' motor in!!! Holy SHIT!!

cygnus x-1
07-21-2011, 08:24 PM
Here is the front mount without the GM tranny mount bolted to it. (sorry cygnus, but i had to open one of the holes up a little with a small rat tail file)



So you had to open up one of the holes on the mounting tabs? How much did you have to file off? And did you have to do both mounts or just the front? I didn't want to have the brackets be sloppy loose but maybe the holes need more clearance. I also wonder if maybe the powder coating is taking up more of the clearance than I thought it would.


C|

hondalude86
07-22-2011, 01:27 PM
I believe the hole was barely off on just one and I think it was really related to the weld. I didn't have to do much honestly to open it up mostly just opened up the corner of the hole to get it just right. It was very close

cygnus x-1
07-22-2011, 07:58 PM
I believe the hole was barely off on just one and I think it was really related to the weld. I didn't have to do much honestly to open it up mostly just opened up the corner of the hole to get it just right. It was very close


Ok, as long as it was just a little bit. The welding on the mount brackets wouldn't have any effect because the holes were drilled after the tabs were welded on. I did this on purpose knowing that the tabs could move slightly during welding. There isn't much room for error though, so it's possible that your parts just ended up on the wrong side of the tolerance stackup.


C|

hondalude86
07-23-2011, 10:05 AM
Its all good Chris! No worries buddy. Got to fix the trans on the coupe and replace the rear main seal... grrrr taking time from me getting this red prelude started before gio gets his driving around

knifemind
07-23-2011, 11:03 PM
If it matter, the studs I got came with instructions that said 64 ft lbs if using moly lube, or 81 ft lbs with 30 weight oil.

Looking forward to seeing it run. Great job so far

fmn716
07-23-2011, 11:35 PM
Ryan you build is very enjoyable and 2G sex

but I dont understand you guys keep bashing pp and keep talking shit just stop your krap and lets just call ourselves 2G luders

rdn86lude
07-24-2011, 12:39 AM
^^ agree.. what you dont realize is that were all in the same category here.. Just cause im not building my engine to 695hp like you, and cause I didnt choose to slap some dump truck tires on my sick knockoffs and leave the car with 2 feet of ground clearence, doesnt mean we all cant just get along. get off your high horse mr. I run the 2g game and come back down to our level

hondalude86
07-24-2011, 09:48 AM
Hopefully I'll be starting the car today! I know Gio had to get his running this week or at the end of the month, so hopefully i get mine going first! hahahaha Much Luv Gio!
Only a couple more weeks till i'm making 695hp ;)

hondalude86
07-24-2011, 09:42 PM
Ok, as promised i've got a quite an update... including video...

First lets start with the car in its current state. I think this will be interesting because its looks pretty bad. No seriously, really bad.

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_5458.jpg
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_5459.jpg
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_5460.jpg
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_5461.jpg
I always laugh because i've never really taken any good pictures of this car whilst it has been running! so i figure i had better start taking some pictures just in general to get this whole thing going, and to give everyone an idea of what depressing can kinda look like!

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_5462.jpg
picture of the dash...
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_5463.jpg
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_5464.jpg
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_5465.jpg
Pictures of the engineless bay...

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_5466.jpg
Oh wait, here is an engine going in!!
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_5467.jpg
yes, i did this all by myself, kinda scary really

hondalude86
07-24-2011, 09:46 PM
And of course there is more...

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_5468.jpg
motor in!!! fwew, took quite of bit to get this little baby on the studless motor mounts, but damn is this thing solid! Thanks Cygnus!

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_5469.jpg
some cp love

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_5470.jpg
glamour shots!

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_5471.jpg
carbs on, along with most everything under that!

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_5472.jpg
Exhaust header on!!

videos coming up shortly... Time for a shower during upload.

hondalude86
07-24-2011, 10:10 PM
Now these pictures are click to activate i think...

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/th_womegajolt.jpg (http://s180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/?action=view&current=womegajolt.mp4)
This video is the first fire up after realizing that I had the EDIS unplugged, so this is literally first try test the wiring of the EDIS with NO MEGAJOLT!

We were impressed that it started up so easily with the limp tune, just nuts!

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/th_wmegajolt.jpg (http://s180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/?action=view&current=wmegajolt.mp4)
This video is the base tune on the megajolt, I'm not sure exactly what it is, but watch the bug spray, even though it's idle is up alittle from the increase of advance, you can tell how much smoother it runs.

I have to say that i'm most impressed that I wired this beast up right the very first time!! I guess that's the pay off of doing ALL the wiring all at once... and damn did it suck!

So far, i've notice 2 oil leaks... wtf? right? one looks like it might be the oilfilter housing, i took it off to send the motor to the machine shop, and notice the o ring was alittle flat.
The other seems to be the valve cover, even with all the RTV i used, it's still leaking. whatev! I'll retorque the head to the higher torque as suggested on here. Other than that, its just all about getting this thing all put back together! AND getting some clamps on those radiator hoses!

hondalude86
07-24-2011, 10:17 PM
oh yea, and my tach isn't working cyg... I've got the two yellows one each going to the negative on the coil, i've got the ground of course going to ground, and (this might be what i'm messing up) but i attached the tach wire to the blue wire that came off the coil/dizzy. Am I using the wrong wire? or do i need to pull out the gauge cluster and hook it directly up to the tach? or do i need to use the ground from the original coil wire? Oh yea, and i'd like some maps to play with and ANY advice for tuning this bastard.

rjudgey
07-25-2011, 02:04 AM
Lol and I thought mine sounded bad when idling! Nice to see it was easy to get up and running what did you set your rockers too?

Also what jets you using on the idle and mains?

cygnus x-1
07-25-2011, 04:41 PM
oh yea, and my tach isn't working cyg... I've got the two yellows one each going to the negative on the coil, i've got the ground of course going to ground, and (this might be what i'm messing up) but i attached the tach wire to the blue wire that came off the coil/dizzy. Am I using the wrong wire?

As long as that blue wire came off the negative of the coil it should be correct. So the EDIS coil has 3 wires going to it. One fat one that goes to +12V, and two smaller ones that go to the ignition module. Those two smaller ones are the "negatives" for the coil and the yellow wires from the diode circuit go to those, one for each. If that's how you have it and it still doesn't work, something else is going on. What that diode circuit does is combine the 2 coil signals into one that the tach can read. As a troubleshooting measure you can try connecting one of the coil "negatives" directly to the blue tach wire (disconnect the diode circuit first) and see what happens. The tach should read half of the actual engine RPM.

You could also try connecting the blue tach wire to the tach output on the MJL. My tach actually works directly from the tach out on the Megasquirt (amazingly) so yours might work directly from the MJL. If that does it then you don't need the diode circuit at all.



Oh yea, and i'd like some maps to play with and ANY advice for tuning this bastard.

Figuring out good timing maps is going to be interesting. If you were on a common plenum manifold it would be easy, but with Webers/ITBs things get weird. I think we can come up with something at least halfway decent though. First question is, what is your idle vacuum at? And then, how fast does it shoot up when you press the throttle? If you could post a datalog with the engine idling for a few seconds and then slowly easing in the throttle until it gets to maybe 3000-4000RPM that would be helpful. Basically I'm just trying to get an idea of how usable the vacuum signal is for engine load indication.


C|

hondalude86
07-25-2011, 06:47 PM
sounds great cyg... Tomorrow when i go over to the car, i'll try and dataloge some for you as well as see where everything is at. I'm not sure where the idle actually is at, but with the computer hooked up, should be much easier to figure that out, you know since its telling me right there, hahaha! Either way... That's what i have right now. i'm only running the o2 sensor right now off of one bank (driverside) and that happens to be the side that might be acting up.

I used my cute little syncromizer is reading 5.5-6kg/h on cylinders 2-4, but reading 7kg/h on number one. not really sure why but part of me thinks it has something to do with me trying to compensate for the weak cylinder (#2) from before, because now 1 is a little higher.

Also rich, tomorrow i'll check my jets sizes but do you have any suggestions? and as far as the rockers go, i set them a tiny bit snug on the factory settings side. I'm pretty sure i had one of my near final setups jet wise posted somewhere on PP, so i'll see if can dig that up, to try and expedite the process...

So here is the thing, what do i tune first? Get the ignition halfway setup then work with the jets? Or Vice Versa? Knowing that the more advance i go, the leaner the mix will be, but at the same time, i can go loads more on the fuel, and richen it up, and go back and forth on this... So it definitely seems like I need (with some help, Cyg/Rich) to get a good healthy baseline figured first...

hondalude86
07-25-2011, 06:58 PM
Alright right rich, these are my best guess on the jets that are currently in the motor...

Accel pump jets, 45
Accel Discharge, 45 (took out my soldered closed discharge)
main jets, 140
air correctors, 200
emulsion tubes f7
idle jets 50f9

And 40mm chokes

hondalude86
07-25-2011, 07:47 PM
hey, thought this was an interesting comparison

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/th_100_2925.jpg (http://s180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/?action=view&current=100_2925.mp4)
this was with the dizzy, and original build on a stock cam... amazing how much smoother it is and how much better it started, i literally dont have to feed the motor at all for it to stay alive!

cygnus x-1
07-25-2011, 10:26 PM
So here is the thing, what do i tune first? Get the ignition halfway setup then work with the jets? Or Vice Versa? Knowing that the more advance i go, the leaner the mix will be, but at the same time, i can go loads more on the fuel, and richen it up, and go back and forth on this... So it definitely seems like I need (with some help, Cyg/Rich) to get a good healthy baseline figured first...


The AFR won't change drastically with changes in timing unless your just WAY off, so I think the thing to do is to throw together a reasonable guestimated timing map for now, and tune the fuel first. With the fuel dialed in you can go back and mess with timing. Then go back and make any final tweaks to the fuel after the timing is good. Seems like tuning is sort of a never ending process, but that should get you pretty close.

For the timing, as a worst case you could set up a map that only uses mechanical advance and no vacuum advance. The throttle response won't be great but it will get you driving. To do this just put the same number of advance degrees in for all the MAP values at a given RPM. The following values would be good to start with:


RPM : Advance
800 : 3
1000 : 5
1500 : 9
2000 : 14
2500 : 22
3000 : 26
3500 : 29
4000 : 32
5000 : 34
6000 : 36
7000 : 36


These values should work pretty well for full throttle, but less so for part throttle and idle. At part throttle you need more advance because of the less dense mixture. Normally you can use manifold pressure to base the vacuum advance on but with individual runners the vacuum signal tends to be lumpy and shoots up to almost atmospheric pressure with very little throttle opening. That's why a datalog would be helpful in seeing what your manifold pressure looks like.


C|

rjudgey
07-26-2011, 01:27 AM
What spec is your camshaft again?
Emulsion tubes I prefer F16
Mains i think you should go upto 145/150
Air correctors bit too high as well start from 170 and see how it goes 180-190works well on mine
Whats your Auxilary venturi size as well?
Will try and open mine up and see what they are at the moment yours shouldn't be too disimilar despite no head work, but you have a better header
and exhaust as well as higher compression.

hondalude86
07-26-2011, 07:51 AM
Hey rich, the biggest reason for the air correctors being so high is the aLtitude. Starting at 5300 on up to 10k will be most the driving... tonight I'm going to throw the car back together, cap off the hvac for the moment and do some idle dip ins for map ideas for cygnus.

gfrg88
07-26-2011, 11:43 AM
yeah, I'm supposed to get mine running by saturday, 10am for car show.. It'll be there one way or another!! even if it's towed there haha!! Looks like it's time for a race to get the cars started!!! xD

gfrg88
07-26-2011, 11:47 AM
awww, fawk!! reading ownz me y0!!! Looks like you win :(

hondalude86
07-26-2011, 03:03 PM
What spec is your camshaft again?


my cam is a 285i/e duration w/11 or 13mm of lift i think?

hondalude86
07-26-2011, 08:54 PM
hey chris, had a bear of a time getting the port name assigned to the computer without a serial port. was a totally bitch to figure out. either way, just letting you know that I sent you a little datalogging to your paypal email, hope that's ok!

cygnus x-1
07-26-2011, 09:22 PM
hey chris, had a bear of a time getting the port name assigned to the computer without a serial port. was a totally bitch to figure out. either way, just letting you know that I sent you a little datalogging to your paypal email, hope that's ok!


Aren't computers great? :pc:
I spent a couple days last week battling with Windows 7. Never had to use Vista thank god.

Just got your log, will take a look.

C|

cygnus x-1
07-26-2011, 10:22 PM
Just looked over the log you sent. I'm not really familiar with the Megajolt logging; is the "load" column reading MAP in kPa or is there some other scaling factor? If it is kPa then the idle pressure is about 50 kPa, which is pretty reasonable. The higher RPM readings look too low though. I would expect anything above 3000RPM to be closer to 90 kPa, but the highest readings I see are only about 60 kPa.

With the engine not running, what is the load reading? At sea level it would be near 100 but since your at a higher altitude it will be lower.


The advance values in the log actually look halfway decent. They don't appear to change with load but only RPM, which would approximate mechanical advance like I was saying before. So you can probably use the map that's in there for now and work on tuning the carbs first.


C|

hondalude86
07-27-2011, 12:23 AM
None of that was actually under load. Literally in neutral in the drive. Its running pig rich right now too. Ultimately I need together it driving today and do some Carb adjusting then some road data logging.

hondalude86
07-28-2011, 09:21 PM
Alright guys, so i've got my idle down to a more reasonable speed and have been driving it around a little. The car feels great, but there is still plenty of room! 1st thing is I think I might have low compression on the 2nd cylinder, maybe a valve problem, but i say this because of the readings i'm getting now on each cylinder are 5kg/h, 3, 5, 5. (1,2,3,4)... i have the O2 sensor reading right now just on the left bank... I haven't played much with the computer at all, but i do have an exhaust semi on now. still need to drill and weld in the O2 bung to get a better reading a little further down stream.

So I upgraded my Jets to...
F16 emulsion tubes
150 mains
170 Air correctors.

Full throttle in the upper RPMs my A/F is in the 11.5-12.5 ranges...
Partial throttle cruising, Afrs are so lean, that they aren't on the gauge...
idle sometimes is lean sometimes rich, pretty much all over, but lean more than rich with about an 800rpm idle.
Another thing i notice on my way home was pushing the HVAC buttons, you could watch the UEGO read a bit richer, than back to lean again, even at idle! so i'm going to disconnect for a while since its not cold...
Still have not hooked it up to the computer yet but will soon!! I'm freaking out about my leaness... I have some 60f9 idles, do you guys think that will help with my partial leaness and the backfiring? Or should i stick with my current idles and adjust just the computer?

gfrg88
07-28-2011, 10:03 PM
I'd play with the computer a little first..

rjudgey
07-29-2011, 09:33 AM
you got 40mm chokes
what auxilary venturis you got?
hows the upper rpm power band like?
285 degree cam isn't going to like idling at 800rpm!
Also are the carbs balanced properly?
Also howmany turn outs on the idles screws have you got maybe you need a bit more on them?
Will try and check my idle jets i think mine a richer i certiainly run a bigger pump jet over your's think they are 50's
Are your carbs 3 hole progression or 2 hole? newer ones are 4 holes which are much better on part throttle think it's possible to drill if only 2 hole to 4 google it.
Could be they are out of balance.

Also now that you've run the engine check valve lash clearance, do not run them tight the valves will be hotter from the high compression run something like .20 though on inlet and .25 on exhaust

hondalude86
07-29-2011, 07:45 PM
4.50mm aux venturis pretty sure... 3 hole progression... I've got a decent map now, so i'm going to try and start from scratch with the carbies... i've adjusted the carbs but i still have the low 2nd cylinder for some reason... you guys think that an exhaust leak at the header could cause that? or just my tight valves... and to be 100%, i should be setting my valves at .20in intake and .25in exhaust right?

So i've been driving the car around quite a bit. but i've set the rev limiter at 5k, i've got a whopping 30 miles so far, plus i need to relax the valves tomorrow afternoon. Plus i've got a bitch exhaust leak with a stripped stud in my head...

To be honest, it doesn't quite have that light pippy motor feel yet, it still feels heavy, not quite b16 territory...

Here is the Map i'm running right now...

http://www.autosportlabs.org/download.php?id=1086

cygnus x-1
07-29-2011, 11:29 PM
Just looked at your datalog. The MAP (load) values look closer to what I would expect. The highest I see is 83kPa, seems maybe still a bit low but I don't know what your altitude is. So, it its what it is. I would guess the load reading with the engine not running is around 85kPa?


For the ignition table, the one you have is ok but way conservative. This will make the engine seem sluggish. The A20 really likes a lot of advance just off idle. I'll put together a more aggressive table tomorrow when I'm more coherent.


C|

hondalude86
07-30-2011, 06:11 AM
Yes! the highest when the engine is not running is 86kPa! Funny that that map is conservative because its for a dual 40mm 20v
http://www.autosportlabs.org/files/ya_casi_102.jpg

cygnus x-1
07-30-2011, 10:21 AM
That's a VW, with a serious slant to the engine.

The A20 head has a pretty lazy combustion chamber so it needs to start combustion earlier than more modern heads. I sent you a new table to try out. You can also use a little more timing since you're at higher altitude.


C|

hondalude86
07-30-2011, 03:17 PM
Loaded up the table and increased my rev limiter to 6k it is definitely feeling loads better. I think i need to experiment with the Air Correctors to try and lean out my mixture up top. Right now i'm not pinging from what i can tell, but my a/f is between 10.7-11.5 about 5k at WOT

rjudgey
07-31-2011, 02:56 PM
Right ok so similar setup to mine, go with the 190 air correctors and see how they go maybe 145 mains jets for now.
Will try and get my idle jets out tomorrow night to see what size they are I know my pump jets are 50 as they came with 45's which are sitting as spares.
Mine are modded with 42mm chokes but 40mm is fine.
As for the rev limiter should be able to run the engine to 8-8.5k rpm with the cam you have especially with the lighter pistons although not sure how much heavier your new rods are compared to the old ones, the old ones are very light and strong I still use them only had one failure and that wasn't due to the revs or power output but the rod bolts coming undone from stock torque settings.
30miles isn't enough takes a good few hundred miles for the rings to seat really nicely I tend to notice a really good pickup in power and driveability when this happens!
Also yes slacken the tappets off they will need adjusting now that you've run the engine for a bit and will effect readings if too tight. Header won't effect compression reading.
Do another compression reading after some more miles and after you adjust the tappets, make sure that throttle is WOT when doing it and all plugs are out the engine.

rjudgey
08-01-2011, 09:19 AM
Pump jets are 50 as i thought and for mains I'm running 155 and 170 airs on F16 tubes which yes is probably on the rich side but given the revs it uses and the bigger power it's probably not that bad.
the idle jets are 50 F6 and when tested for emissions it's so low it doesn't read on their machine so it should be tax exempt! lol!

Whats the fuel pressure set at? mines about 4.5 psi.

hondalude86
08-01-2011, 09:35 AM
My fuel pressure is set at 3psi, so I could probably bump it up. I'm going to drop in some 145 mains with my 190ac. I put the 190s in yesterday and noticed my afr went from 11.5 to 13.0:1. So a small improvement. Still haven't opened it up past 6k. But I've had it pull to 110 no problem. Oh yeah and I blew a damn hose cap off.

rjudgey
08-01-2011, 10:45 AM
Yeah you need to make sure everything is on tight and also are you running the Tstat? if not loose it when the engine revs higher than 7k all the time it will just bend the hell out of it and try and suck it through the housing better to not bother and have more power with cooler engine.

hondalude86
08-01-2011, 07:16 PM
I finally got the carbs synced all together, i forgot about the little air metering valve on the side of the carby, once i adjusted that one on the low flow one, i've got a consistent 5kg/h at 900rpm across the board! Fwew!!! Car is feeling great and sounding smoother and smoother! In fact, whilst putting groceries in my car, i started it up, to just enjoy it, and it sounded so smooth, outside of the big cam sound, which definitely sounds great! Once, i get this thing at 1500 mile mark, i'll change to oil, and open up the rev limit to 7.5k! There is a dyno day in mid-late aug, so hopefully i'll be able to go to that, and then give everyone an idea what Hp this thing is making!

rjudgey
08-02-2011, 03:41 AM
Should be interesting to see how it's power band goes can't see why it shouldn't have power all the way upto 8k with the cam and exhaust your running. Just a shame you left the head stock!! grrrrr!! lol!

hondalude86
08-02-2011, 05:09 AM
Turbos out flow na heads for the cost

rjudgey
08-03-2011, 02:13 AM
Not if you can do it yourself! lol! Just imagine a nice small blower with a nicely done head you'll have best of both worlds then!!
Hows it running now done anymore miles on it yet? I normally just take mine for a nice cruise up and down a nice long stretch of motorway steady 2500-3000rpm for hour or so once i've plugged all the leaks and made sure nothing pops off the coolant system!
Classic mistake i make is allways forgetting to tighten the bleed bolt so get about 10 miles down the road to find it's fallen out and all my coolants gone AWOL as well! lol! I allways keep a spare in the car with a 5 litre bottle of coolant now! and a few spare Jubilee clips too! doh!!

gfrg88
08-03-2011, 04:01 PM
Dyno day is august 20th :D

hondalude86
08-13-2011, 11:11 AM
Hey Guys, figured i'd give everyone the heads up on the Prelude...

It's running pretty damn good, but i'm starting to wonder if my pump is flowing enough fuel... Last night i went running up the mountains here in CO, and cruising in 3rd between 4.5k-5k i'd notice that i was running rich under throttle (12.5:1 afr) but all of a sudden my car would just run out of top end busting up the mts, and i'd look at my UEGO, and i'd drop lean all of a sudden. I'd shift to 4th and baby it, and i'd come back down...
I uped my pressure today, but my gauge is busted so i'm not sure what the pressure is, but i drove it around today, and everything seemed fine, but i didn't run it long... I'm wondering if this is why i was thinking in the 4th and 5th gear pulls that i was going to need bigger jets past 6k...

Ok, now for some video... Still alot left in this thing, if i can just get this tuning 100%

First the in car...
http://youtu.be/BbKJNZWGMcc

and next the under the hood!!!
http://youtu.be/X_MP6Y6vp9Y
on this vid, here are the high light times if you don't want to watch the whole 5 mins.
-start up... ~30secs
-getting on the interstate... ~1.28mins
-then another 3rd gear pull...~1.48mins
-right turn then 1,2gear and part of 3rd...~4.00mins
enjoy

gfrg88
08-14-2011, 12:06 PM
You coming out tonight??? Let's see what efi vs carbs does :D

knifemind
08-14-2011, 08:11 PM
I watched the underhood first and must admit, the moment you started it, I got a little smile.

hondalude86
08-15-2011, 05:49 AM
I'm glad you like! Still wishin I had a high def camera

rjudgey
08-16-2011, 03:15 AM
Sounds like you got it running pretty well so far probably still a little tweeking to be done yet with fueling and ignition but balance sounds good idling better than mine but my manifold is level so it's nigh on impossible for me to get it right untill i take it off and have it machined flat.

Looks like it's pulling well from low down to top end no hesitation's anywhere, as for the fuel pump could well be not quite enough pressure or flow you need to get a pressure gauge really to get it right on a high tuned engine should have it at between 4-4.5psi, also could be maybe the float valves aren't a large enough size to flow the fuel in if the pump is big enough and you have enough pressure. I'll try and figure out what mine are I've stuck some slightly bigger ones in mine so will try and find the old ones whereever they are in my jet collection box but haven't seen that kicking around for yonks! got so much shit you won't believe it! lol!

Howmany miles you done now then? I really need to get on with changing my oil pan and getting that OBX exhaust header and 2.5" system sorted out then think about whether I should bosh on that A18 head or not, ultimately i don't think it will flow as well as the A20 but the jump in CR ratio could make it worth it overall especially for torque across the board. Let me know when you start doing some full power runs and see where your true powerband finishes and that will help me decide. You still running on std pump gas or with an additive or high octane fuel plus additive?

hondalude86
08-17-2011, 03:48 PM
So i'm running a 2.00 needle valve going into the float, but i'm also running one of those specter autozone fuel pressure regulators... you think that cheap regulator is cutting down my flow enough that i can't get enough fuel into the carbies?

Also i'm thinking about these parts to buy...

55f9 idles...
50 pump jets
install my soldered bypass
maybe the 2.50 needle valves...

Right now sitting at idle my afr reads 10.5:1-11:1... So i'm thinking this is way to rich... but my 50f9s just aren't big enough, just cant get it to idle without turning the screws WAY out.

hondalude86
08-18-2011, 02:00 PM
I turned my fuel pump regulator all the way up to max pressure!! that is helping for sure on my long pulls, its not dropping out lean anymore.

Last night i swapped my 145 mains down to 140 mains, and the car feels lots better, but still pretty rich... Anyone have any idea how much Advance i can run on 91 octane? 93?

the car feels a little bit more fluffy and zippy that with the 140s in. I also swapped my 190 air correctors out for some 200, can't really tell if that helped at all up top, but the car is def running a bit better. Right now i've got a just a scosh over 1200 miles! I'm going to be changing the oil friday night and do some tuning on the 8k side of things. Maybe add some more timing...

hondalude86
08-20-2011, 07:48 AM
here is two new videos for your viewing pleasure...

0-100
http://youtu.be/kUt8GF_itrk

20-90
http://youtu.be/cCrnaOmwTPI
did this video as a kinda comparison vid... i loosely timed it going 20-80 about 2 secs faster than my previous vid...

I'm took out the f16 emulstion tubes because the car just wasn't pulling to 8k. Put my super rich, f7s (the richest available) and the car was literally different animal

hondalude86
08-20-2011, 10:23 AM
didn't start running out of fuel till i got to about 7300 rpm in 3rd. it pulls so hard and clean in 1 and 2 and most the way through 3rd... I tried to get this thing 130 last night, and what i did was push 5th to 90mph then dropped to 4th, was lean by 110... fuck this regulator!

gfrg88
08-21-2011, 04:18 PM
get that fuel issue fixed!!! Mine is starting to run better. gotta play with timing a bit tonight. You coming out?? :D

hondalude86
08-22-2011, 07:45 PM
no dyno day btw guys, the dyno turned out to be a bust, and being strapped on cash, the likely hood of me spending 60-100 bucks for no tuning time just isn't worth it to me. Hopefully the vids have helped a little bit, but damn my gearing is tall. Right now i'm running these jets...

140mains
170 ac
F7 emulsion tubes
60f8 idles
45 accel pump

2.00mm needle valve
40mm chokes


Worked on my mates ZC powered CRX with some 40DCOE webers. Got them all synced up for him, but the poor bastard is running 32mm chokes in that little diddy. i told him to buy some 36s and told him that that poor car wont make it 9k with the 32s, and hell probably will be struggling with 8k... funny thing is this... His jet settings...

140 mains
190 Air correctors
F16 emulsion tubes
60f8 idles
45 pumps, no discharge
32mm chokes
2.00mm needle valves

like damn near the same setup jet wise...

sounds good, but i'm not digging his ignition setup, and the irony of it is, jared talked me into the megajolt and i was totally going to run the Electomotive setup... fwew, was that close! The Xsi is very limited, his setup as only 3 tuning points... idle/startup 3k rpm and 8k rpm. And the most advance he can run is 35 degrees. I'm running 44 at WOT at 6k+ without pinging, although, probably could pull a little out past 7500

rjudgey
08-23-2011, 03:20 AM
It's possible to get the old chokes bored out to much bigger nearly 39mm i think funky managed on his 40's makes huge difference ZC will be severly choked on 32mm! Mine was on just 36mm!!
Still not convinced by the F7 emulsion tubes though but seems to be working on yours maybe it's the higher compression and lower cc not sure maybe worth a try but i have the next set of tubes that are richer and they car has never liked them and had to revert back to F16 maybe because your exhaust setup is much better I really need to sort that out will try and order OBX header and get new system made up in next couple of weeks.

rjudgey
08-23-2011, 06:38 AM
Hmmm think you might be onto something here F16's come with 45's std, but a lot of people end up going for richer ones, I think somewhere somehow I managed to think that F9's were richer but in fact due to Italian logic they are leaner even though F8 and F7 are richer, so this possibly could bring me some large benefits on top end due to larger valves with more air would need a much richer mixture to gain more power and top end zippiness!
May have to give the F7's a go as well and see how it performs over the F16's

rjudgey
08-23-2011, 07:52 AM
Can only get F2's but they should be better still than F16 as they are two up from here and two below F7's

hondalude86
08-23-2011, 04:08 PM
yea rich, i think they would be worth a try. I'm kinda dissappointed about the whole dyno thing, but like i said in another thread, i believe the trans is going to my next big investment. its something i need to do before boost. i wouldn't mind trying some f2s, but really i don't know anyone that would let me try them out, other than you, and your thousands of miles away!

cygnus x-1
08-23-2011, 08:43 PM
Remember Rich, he's also at significantly higher altitude so the jetting will be different.


C|

rjudgey
08-24-2011, 12:53 AM
After doing some reading on the internet though F2's should be perfect for my engine as they are designed to work with 1.9-2.1 litre modified engines F16's are next down from 1.7-1.9 although you can use them on 2.0.

How High up are you then? That means I should be putting down more power If I'm near ground level! lol! I still think the F2's should show some improvement and found a place that does them cheap, just really really want to get this exhaust sorted out even if it's just a new downpipe and system would be a big improvement over the junk exhaust i have at moment header would be nice though just not sure about the clearance problem though.

gfrg88
08-25-2011, 07:11 AM
We're at 5000+ ft above sea level :(

hondalude86
08-25-2011, 04:39 PM
yeah, you can expect that to be about a 15% or more power loss! let me know how your F2s do, cause i might try them!
Hey Cyg, i'd say the emulsion tubes aren't affected to much by alititude so much, of course the jets are hugely effected as well as the air correctors and idles. Its just hard to believe that at sea level i'd be running 160 mains!!! OMG!

cygnus x-1
08-25-2011, 07:26 PM
Hey Cyg, i'd say the emulsion tubes aren't affected to much by alititude so much, of course the jets are hugely effected as well as the air correctors and idles. Its just hard to believe that at sea level i'd be running 160 mains!!! OMG!


Perhaps not. I know how the e-tubes work but tuning them (as far as I know) is pretty much trial and error. I have no idea how they might be affected by altitude.


C|

rjudgey
08-29-2011, 01:26 AM
Ordered them but unlike the website they have a 8 day lead time hopefully they'll be here by next weekend before car goes in for new header and exhaust! I'm still debating the header though I've had a look underneath and the OBX one is just going to be way too close to the ground, with all the humps and ramps we have here I just can't take the chance of it hitting, so I'm either gonna keep my stock ported and flowed header and have a new 2" downpipes welded up to a 2.5" collector and matching system or if i can get my man to cut me a good deal on making up a header he has the flanges already for last few years hopefully not lost them! then I may go for the full monty as they say over here! But to be honest anything will be better than what is on there at the moment even swapping over reds exhaust to this one would be an improvement! Car goes to exhaust shop on the 12th hopefully to be finished before the race event.

gfrg88
08-29-2011, 07:33 AM
You can always get a skid plate made up if you're that worried..

hondalude86
08-29-2011, 01:44 PM
Rich, i'd run it anyway... I'm telling ya, with the spring stiffness, and the fact that your not SUPER dumped, i don't think you'll really have any clearance issues. I've only bottomed my header out on driveways i wasn't hitting just right, but even with the uber soft springs i haven't bottomed it out yet. And i'm curious why you decided to go with 2.5" piping. I've only modded mine to 2.25". Really i think that's all it needs...

rjudgey
08-30-2011, 02:21 AM
Well to be honest I've run out of time to get it in just going to run with what I can get done, hopefully I can get my man to make me a new header with much bigger primaries than were use to seeing and long ones with a good 2-1 section leading to the 2.5" exhaust.

Reason I'm going so big is that from everything I've seen on honda engines they like big exhausts anything that's running over 200bhp has a 2.5" exhaust, also the next head and block I'm planning on using will definately be capable of around 230-240bhp and once I'm bored I my plan on putting a small turbo on A B20A and going for a 300-350bhp tune so a 2.5" exhaust should just cope with that and I'll use the old header on the Red lude instead.

So just future proofing as well as guaranteeing that the exhaust is no way the bottle neck in the system!! But we'll see how it goes may just settle for Downpipe and system at present and maybe try hoggin some more material out the cast header. Depends howmuch my exhaust guy is going to charge me for the header on top if i can get the whole lot done for £600 I'll be happy if it's nearer to £1000 then I'll have to just get downpipe and system done which last time cost me £300.

rjudgey
08-30-2011, 02:26 AM
My tyres are only 195/50/15 so are smaller, and compared to yours it is mega dumped! lol!

Trouble is ryan I'm so used to going over our humps across the middle I'd easily forget one time and it will be completely destroyed you have no idea what our humps are like here they are PIA nasty MOF's!! I've even hit a fold down pillar that ripped the old exhaust to pieces at slow speed so any hit about 2mph on the header is going to get messy!!

Oh and on the suspension side I jacked it up 1cm roughly and it just clears the worse of it now but best of all it's made the handling a little more neutral now, I've increased damping a bit more on both front and rear and it's handling like a beauty even with 195 rain tyres on with super squiggy sidewalls!! Can't wait to get some Hankook Z212's on with 205/50/15 size will stick like glue to the road!!! Just need to fix my oil pan as it's taken a massive dump again and spewing oil out onto the downpipe and making a nice smoke screen for the Police!! lol!!

rjudgey
09-01-2011, 01:32 PM
Well got my F2's but won't be able to try till Sat at earliest or Sunday, have the pan on the engine off and have spent the evening taking off the crappy exhaust and cast header loads of things broke or got stuck have to change the manifold regardless now! lol! have a spare though and I did some measurements check out my build thread for that makes some interesting reading!!!

bryan6732
09-18-2011, 10:54 PM
Inspiring build! Glad to be subscribed to this thread now! ;)

hondalude86
09-19-2011, 12:48 PM
Hahaha, thanks!
Right now my car isn't running to great as of last night! I noticed that my car was running a little rougher and rougher, so i had this idea that i'd set my afr to 11.5-12 on the one cylinder (since i'm really only measuring one cylinder) to and then shut the car off and turn all the other idle mixture screws to the same as the ideal running cylinder. 2 and 1/4 turns out is where it is now. I set all the other mixture screws to the same and fired it up... I had a pretty good idle, but i couldn't really get it to idle down from 11rpm no matter how much i tried. I thought that was kinda weird but i was in crunch time trying to meet up for a local cruise in. The partial wasn't too hot. it was spotty at best, which was weird because it was running so well before all the craziness. Also I noticed i was super rich (11.0-11.5) under acceleration until i got to about 6.5rpm, then went pretty lean! It drove decent, and mid range felt good, but top end was gone and my partial wasn't so hot.
When i got to the local cruise in i tried to adjust my idles while i was there, figured i'd turn them just a 1/4 richer... partial was even worse, plus off throttle i was getting lots more back fire, which is abnormal, because before the car was pretty smooth especially when i wasn't coming off of a full throttle. And whilst i was adjusted the idle mixture screws and changing things around, i fired the car up again and notice that now i have a weird squeak that pulses with the rpm... I def sounds like its one of the carbies but i can't figure out which one. So then i checked my carb sync, and i found that i had a steady 3.5in/mg on cylinder 1,2 but 7-10 (pulsing with the squeak) on both cylinders 3,4. Today i'm leaning towards a vacuum leak but really haven't had time to look at it... just sucks!

hondalude86
09-20-2011, 04:56 PM
alright guys! quick update before class! Well the other night was frustrating... i was trying to get it running again last night, and having a bear of a time trying to keep it idling. On my carb linkage i didn't have an adjustable screw between the main carb and the slave carb. So the other night i swapped in an adjustable one, which is when i realized that putting an adjustable one in, just gets in the way of the linkage for the throttle, ARGGG.. So last night i took the linkage apart and swapped the slave one for the main one, so now the passenger side carb has the linkage mounted on the far outside (pass) of the carby. that left me plently of room in the middle to get the adjustaable screw in there. I then synced the carbs up for off AND on throttle. before i was just adjusting the idle on both the carbs, syncing them that way, just assuming that the fixed screw was perfect! WRONG! this whole time my two carbies were synced at idle and were slightly off ON throttle. Also after all the "trying to get it to run" my 2 and 3rd cylinders were pretty much useless, plenty of suction, but no firing. bought new plugs, and boom, much better. Tuned it, synced it and man does it even feel better! Time for bigger mains, again! And some computer time. ordered some 55F9 idles and some 50 accel pumps last night, as well as a anti vib kit last night. should help keep it all together rather than vibrate out of adjustment.
then i went driving to class, driving seperate from my gf, and this happened...

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_20110920_175740.jpgthrottle screw fell out and...

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x319/hondalude86/IMG_20110920_180742.jpghit the windshield of my del sol (that my gf was driving)

Got lucky and found it in the road after having nothing but idle... O snap 4 more minutes to class!

gfrg88
09-20-2011, 05:51 PM
Oh the joy of old modded ludes!!!! Starting to sound a lot more like me!!! lol

hondalude86
09-20-2011, 07:38 PM
your not kidding! I just can't believe that when i was fucking around I happened to be in front of her (least i remind you she is driving my 400+whp car) and that piece came off the prelude and hit the upper part of the lowered Del Sol windsheild, and to make it even better, I actually found this little diddy in the ROAD! I feel so lucky... She remembered well enough were the hit on the windsheild was and it was right were she thought it was. Some of you might have noticed but that is a left hand / right hand thread piece which would be nearly impossible to find anywhere local. without that piece i would have had to walk to school and figure something ELSE out... Shame i guess i would have to drive the ALWAYS reliable white prelude.

In other news, i bought a set of Hankook Rs3 in a 225/45/r15 size for my Kosei K1s. Hopefully sometime next week i'll get those guys on! These are suppose to be one of the stickest Street tires you can buy for road racing

rjudgey
09-21-2011, 03:29 AM
Nice I'd like a set of those!!
Lucky the linkage didn't break your windscreen or radiator in the Rex! lol!
My idle jets and pumps had to go up huge amounts, running appox .65 F6 idle and .65 pumps used a drill to save money! lol! Running sweet now! Just need to figure out whats causing the fuel to stop on right hand bends now!!

hondalude86
09-21-2011, 03:08 PM
mine kinda cuts out too on hard rights, so as soon as you figure that out, i'd love to know...

rjudgey
09-22-2011, 01:22 AM
It never did this before I'm pretty certain it's tank related as the fuel pump and pickup is to the back off the tank on the left side, so on hard rights something is being pushed back here and then blocking the fuel!

hondalude86
09-22-2011, 04:19 PM
My car has sat for awhile, and whilst the fuel filter doesn't have many miles, its about 7 years old! probably worth changing out. I got my new jets today... car feels better, i think i'm at a good stage to start modding the ignition curve again, take a little advance out of the partial, add a little advance across the board, and of course install my antivib mounts. I'm even thinking that i need to change up my fuel splitter a little bit, being that it vibrates enought to dystroy a fuel pressure gauge, probably vibs enough to aerate the fuel quiet a bit.

rjudgey
09-23-2011, 01:30 AM
Yeah it won't help the fuel getting all frothy! lol! Just remember not to go too tight and make sure they are both level to each other, and also make sure you use super glue or loctite on the nuts and studs just incase they start to undo themselves from all the vibrating! which they do no matter how tight you get em on!!

hondalude86
10-10-2011, 08:05 PM
So i was talking to Jared online earlier and I had one of those moments when i had a realization about something... I keep fouling plugs on just cylinder 2 and 3... and when i was telling him that, he asked why i thought i was doing that. I guess before i never really gave it much thought until i realized that both cylinder 2 and 3 are both on the same coil pack side!! I guess i need to do some voltage/ohms testing, but i figured i'd post that up, maybe someone can jump on here and through in there .02cents!

gfrg88
10-11-2011, 06:29 PM
Hmm.. interesting..