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itzdave
02-05-2011, 11:03 PM
ok, i has it...:ugh2:
now here comes the fun part!

http://img211.imageshack.us/img211/9739/66270387.png (http://img211.imageshack.us/i/66270387.png/)

http://img59.imageshack.us/img59/1543/75716689.png (http://img59.imageshack.us/i/75716689.png/)

http://img51.imageshack.us/img51/916/18073810150415298470377.jpg (http://img51.imageshack.us/i/18073810150415298470377.jpg/)

http://img684.imageshack.us/img684/5154/17900010150415338785377.jpg (http://img684.imageshack.us/i/17900010150415338785377.jpg/)

http://img41.imageshack.us/img41/9551/16870010150415297480377.jpg (http://img41.imageshack.us/i/16870010150415297480377.jpg/)

sweet cnc work thanks to cygnus!

http://img840.imageshack.us/img840/6431/16841710150415339010377.jpg (http://img840.imageshack.us/i/16841710150415339010377.jpg/)

2ndGenGuy
02-06-2011, 12:36 AM
Fuck that is a badass trigger wheel! Let me know if you want any help! :) I got nothing planned next weekend...

itzdave
02-06-2011, 01:29 AM
1/4th the way there!

http://img708.imageshack.us/img708/1772/89565989.png (http://img708.imageshack.us/i/89565989.png/)

charliekuney
02-06-2011, 01:04 PM
What's that?

:inout:

cygnus x-1
02-06-2011, 10:37 PM
What's that?

:inout:


It's a fully tunable crank fired distributor-less ignition system. And it's going to rock. :rockon:

I have to say that cutting the trigger ring teeth directly into the pulley turned out even better than I was expecting. I was worried they might be too thin but they're not at all.

C|

MessyHonda
02-07-2011, 12:49 AM
wow that pully looks good...who needs AC anyways

itzdave
02-07-2011, 02:28 AM
well, my car is a DX and didnt even come with A/C, so it doesnt reall affect me at all. all this wiring is begining to be a P.I.T.A.!

2oodoor
02-07-2011, 04:28 AM
well, my car is a DX and didnt even come with A/C, so it doesnt reall affect me at all. all this wiring is begining to be a P.I.T.A.!

Isnt an AC delete Accord pretty rare?

Cygnus that pulley is awesome, brilliant as usual!

Dave this is a very good move on your part, Im excited how this will improve your drivability with radical carbs.

poison2003
02-07-2011, 10:34 AM
what exactly is this supposed to archive with the removal of the distributor?
might be a little off track but if i remove ac on my car would i gain any mpg?

itzdave
02-07-2011, 01:23 PM
barely. only mainly by reducing the weight. by removing this dizzy, i get a crank-fired, fully tunable ignition.

Dr_Snooz
02-07-2011, 04:32 PM
Good luck with the conversion Dave. I'm jealous.

Cygnus, do you have any ideas for those of us who want to do EDIS, but like A/C very much?

forrest89sei
02-07-2011, 05:02 PM
Awesome!! Looking forward to the result!!!

itzdave
02-07-2011, 05:02 PM
i guess you could have the trigger wheel mounted elsewhere, but i dunno for sure...

2ndGenGuy
02-07-2011, 05:48 PM
Might be able to sandwich a sensor bracket between the AC pump and the block somehow...? Might need a little longer AC belt to go with it...

87roach
02-07-2011, 05:56 PM
Killer work Chris, damn.

cygnus x-1
02-07-2011, 06:30 PM
Good luck with the conversion Dave. I'm jealous.

Cygnus, do you have any ideas for those of us who want to do EDIS, but like A/C very much?


Thanks for the compliments guys!

I've pondered over the AC problem for many hours and I have yet to come up with a reasonable way to do the EDIS conversion without removing the AC. Probably the next best option would be to remove the power steering and bolt a trigger ring to the pulley where the PS groove would normally be. You would have to find another place to mount the crank sensor but that's not as difficult a problem as getting the trigger ring on the pulley. If you want to keep AC and PS it gets much harder. I suppose it *might* be possible to put a trigger ring on the back of the pulley if you didn't mind hacking up the timing cover. I think it would probably interfere with the timing belt though.

The transmission side is a possibility, maybe modify the flywheel by cutting teeth into it. Obviously you would have to take the trans off to do the conversion, but this option has some potential. The sensor could maybe go somewhere near the little window in the bell housing for checking the timing. A different shape sensor would likely be needed. Hmmm. Yeah. This method would be more work but maybe not too bad. I would need a stock flywheel and an A20 transmission for development though. My trans is the smaller version that came on the 1.8L 2g 'ludes. The guts are all A20 compatible but the bell housing is different.
I'll definitely consider this one more.


Oh, and Turabaka, if you happen to read this, I'll PM you when I get home from work.


C|

Dr_Snooz
02-07-2011, 10:44 PM
I do want to keep both. I was thinking of mounting the ring gear over the PS pulley and then machining down the PS pump bracket to run inline with the A/C pulley. You could keep both by putting a little larger pulley on the pump and running a longer belt to drive both the pump and compressor at the same time. It seems pretty do-able to me. What do you think?

Sorry for the threadjack Dave.

Dr_Snooz
02-13-2011, 01:08 PM
OMG. I'm such a fool. The answer is obvious. Do a serpentine conversion. That will give all kinds of room to mount ring gears. There should be at least 15 billion pulley options at the junkyard right now. That would make changing fan belts easy as well as tightening them properly. Mounting the tensioner would need some thought, but everything else should be plug and play. What do you think?

Sorry for the continued threadjack.

itzdave
02-13-2011, 03:11 PM
Fan belt?

phrenology
02-13-2011, 03:30 PM
Fan belt?

Accessory belt???

itzdave
02-19-2011, 12:58 AM
got the intake drilled and threded the holes for the vac ports.

http://i1225.photobucket.com/albums/ee398/itzdave405/carb6.jpg

http://i1225.photobucket.com/albums/ee398/itzdave405/carb5.jpg

http://i1225.photobucket.com/albums/ee398/itzdave405/carb4.jpg

http://i1225.photobucket.com/albums/ee398/itzdave405/carb3.jpg

http://i1225.photobucket.com/albums/ee398/itzdave405/carb2.jpg

when i was finished they were totally smoothed out in there, looks pretty good...
http://i1225.photobucket.com/albums/ee398/itzdave405/carb1.jpg

AccordB20A
02-19-2011, 02:56 AM
top work mate. look forward to see the result.

87roach
02-19-2011, 08:31 AM
gogogo

2ndGenGuy
02-19-2011, 12:53 PM
Top work man!

fmn716
02-24-2011, 12:40 PM
sorry for my ignorance but what are all those vac ports for ?

Smeado
02-24-2011, 01:43 PM
Awesome Very awesome. I'm jealous of the crank!

88Accord-DX
02-26-2011, 09:25 PM
That looks like a awesome setup! Little more add ons to be up to OBD II level? lol

Not trying to be negative, but don't care for the butt connectors (wire splices) you used. Butt connectors are OK where the wires aren't exposed to the elements. The prefered method is to solder them wires together & used some heat shrink tubing on the joint.

They sell butt connectors that your crimp which are a little more expensive. You heat up the ends & seals the joint.

87roach
02-27-2011, 01:20 PM
x2

itzdave
02-27-2011, 01:40 PM
yea i know, the wires and splices will taken care of tho, heat shrink, wrapped in conduit, etc...

2ndGenGuy
02-28-2011, 01:22 PM
I did the same thing with my initial setup. Easier to butt connect everything and make sure you wired it all up right before you go bundling and soldering all the wires... I don't know how many times I had to rewire this or that because I had something backwards. Was glad to have the butt connectors from the get go.

itzdave
05-13-2011, 01:52 AM
i really need to get back to work on this, lol...

2ndGenGuy
05-13-2011, 09:05 AM
Yes!

itzdave
06-09-2011, 04:53 PM
I done. It werx now! kthnx.

2ndGenGuy
06-09-2011, 05:33 PM
VIDS! How's the tune going on that guy? Using the default map that comes with it? Or had a chance to advance it up yet?

itzdave
06-09-2011, 05:53 PM
VIDS! How's the tune going on that guy? Using the default map that comes with it? Or had a chance to advance it up yet?

no. gettin there. yup. nope.
lol

2ndGenGuy
06-09-2011, 07:59 PM
woo

88lxi-shortram
06-09-2011, 08:14 PM
I wana see this in action buddy. It's time you pull out that camera for us

charliekuney
06-09-2011, 08:31 PM
I feel like this is old news for some reason. ;)

itzdave
06-09-2011, 08:51 PM
I wana see this in action buddy. It's time you pull out that camera for us

nah im good, thanks tho. haha...

itzdave
06-10-2011, 07:32 PM
mounted...
http://i1225.photobucket.com/albums/ee398/itzdave405/IMG01136-20110610-1959.jpg

dizzy blockoff plate...
http://i1225.photobucket.com/albums/ee398/itzdave405/IMG01137-20110610-1959.jpg

Pico
06-10-2011, 08:30 PM
Woot!!!!

88lxi-shortram
06-10-2011, 08:48 PM
Sweet. So this allows you to tune your ignition timing how you want correct? And you are the first accord with ford parts that I've seen lol. Fonda accord

itzdave
06-11-2011, 12:48 PM
Sweet. So this allows you to tune your ignition timing how you want correct? And you are the first accord with ford parts that I've seen lol. Fonda accord

yup! a few other people have done it too.

Tdurr
06-11-2011, 01:43 PM
Lol why not go obd1?

MessyHonda
06-11-2011, 07:19 PM
Lol why not go obd1?

he is carbed

turabaka
06-11-2011, 08:34 PM
Lol why not go obd1?

Independent crank fired ignition is always going to be better than a distributor setup. ignition spark can be controlled extremely precisely this way.

itzdave
06-17-2011, 01:46 AM
anybody know what wire i hook the 'tach output' wire to, so my tach works. and any ideas to get the fuel pump going, other than running a switchable / 'hot' wire from the ignition.

AccordB20A
06-17-2011, 02:09 AM
there has to be an output from that box somewhere that you can hook to the rev counter. you can also use the stock carb accord fuel pump relay as it uses a rev sensor to turn on the pump i believe

itzdave
06-17-2011, 02:31 AM
yea but i dont know what wire is the rev counter, and i dont know what wire/wires to use for the fuel pump relay.

AccordB20A
06-17-2011, 03:45 AM
i guess start the car and hook the rev counter wire to random wires till it works accurately lol. i dont think you can blow up the rev counter by doing this

2ndGenGuy
06-17-2011, 08:20 AM
I'll have to look in my diagrams, but there is a wire on both the EDIS module and on the MegaJolt unit that have outputs for tach signal. It will run your tach, but for some reason it's not quite right to trigger the fuel pump relay. Somewhere, Cygnus has a diagram where you take the two negative wires off the coils and combine them using some sort of diode (zener diode maybe?) and feed that to your relay. I was lazy and just bypassed the relay and put my fuel pump on a switch. One of these days I'll switch it back...

cygnus x-1
06-17-2011, 08:40 AM
anybody know what wire i hook the 'tach output' wire to, so my tach works. and any ideas to get the fuel pump going, other than running a switchable / 'hot' wire from the ignition.


Do you have the diode circuit hooked up? Along with the jumble of EDIS wires there was a thing that looks like a big wire splice with black heat shrink tubing around it. That's the diode circuit. There should be 4 wires coming out of it, 2 go to the negative leads on the coil, one goes to ground, and one goes to the tach/fuel pump circuit. On my Prelude the tach/fuel pump circuit used a blue wire that originally attached to the negative side of the ignition coil. Because the EDIS system has two coils you need the diode circuit to get a combined signal from both.

You may also be able to use the tach output on the MJL too. I discovered that the Megasquirt will drive the stock Prelude tach so theoretically it should work for you too. I'm not sure about the fuel pump since MS drives that separately but if you're using the stock FPR it should use the same signal as the tach.


C|

cygnus x-1
06-17-2011, 08:50 AM
I'll have to look in my diagrams, but there is a wire on both the EDIS module and on the MegaJolt unit that have outputs for tach signal. It will run your tach, but for some reason it's not quite right to trigger the fuel pump relay. Somewhere, Cygnus has a diagram where you take the two negative wires off the coils and combine them using some sort of diode (zener diode maybe?) and feed that to your relay.


Ok, yeah. That's not surprising. Years ago I diagrammed the circuit inside the FPR and it was a bit strange. I never did figure out exactly how it was working but I know it was designed to use the signal directly off the coil.

Best bet then is to use the diode thing to run the tach and FPR together. I don't remember the wire colors for the diode circuit off the top of my head but if you have a picture of it I can tell you how to connect it.


C|

itzdave
07-30-2011, 09:22 PM
vids... cuz it happened.
http://i1225.photobucket.com/albums/ee398/itzdave405/th_VID00090-20110730-1432.jpg (http://s1225.photobucket.com/albums/ee398/itzdave405/?action=view&current=VID00090-20110730-1432.mp4)

http://i1225.photobucket.com/albums/ee398/itzdave405/th_VID00091-20110730-1439.jpg (http://s1225.photobucket.com/albums/ee398/itzdave405/?action=view&current=VID00091-20110730-1439.mp4)

cygnus x-1
07-30-2011, 10:27 PM
Cool man, you got it running! So what did you figure out with the fuel pump relay?


C|

itzdave
07-30-2011, 10:50 PM
i hooked up the wire that i had goin to the coil, i think it was blue, to the 'tach out' from the MJ, and now the tach and the fuel pump work.

jbabb
10-13-2011, 04:06 PM
how different would it be on an EFI model

itzdave
10-13-2011, 08:22 PM
how different would it be on an EFI model

Megasquirt is for efi