burned through a set of rubbers in >1k miles?

[mykwikcoupe]

I hope that how the less then symbol goes, I don't exactly remember. Anyways I swapped in new moog front upper control arms and tie rods. I have an order in for the bushing sets and I wasn't sure about the rear control arms. the car squeaks like crazy and the passenger front seems extra loose up front. When you hit a rough patch of road the car really does wander wherever it wants to go and its hard to keep in the lane around a turn under these conditions.

Today I go out and install the studs since Im planning a lot of snow on my way to work for the next few days and the rears are past the wear indicators. Its been about 3 weeks and just about a 1k miles and they have nothing left.

The rear upper ball joints actually rack inside the housings like you can move the joint around while its bolted in and it clunks real bad. I'm sure that means its bad but is it worth a set of those spc adjustable types since I'm about 2.5in lower then stock? Also with that front passenger side. I still need to do the lower ball joints and all the bushings since they have about 275k on them. What else could cause the crazy out of control driving? When I try to push and pull the tire off the ground it feels tight, no clunks or noticeable movements. I have the 2nd gen arms swapped in, all washers to the rear of the car. Thanks for the help. Im going to start pricing out the rear arms and see if its something I can do tonight before I leave.

[Dr_Snooz]

I'd look at lower ball joints and an alignment. Are the tires fish-scaled at all? That would indicate a toe problem, which would cause a lot of wear. Was it just the rears or the fronts too? What brand of tires? You have to remove the knuckle to do the lower ball joints, so it's a good time to replace...well...everything. All bushings, the wheel bearing and the lug studs. Don't drive the car until you get the upper arms for the rear. If they fail, you'll have a big problem.

[mykwikcoupe]

no wear indications just smooth and flat. I have no choice but to drive the car and hope they last a few more weeks until I can swap them out. I keep the tools to fix them and almost any other problem I could have with the car in the car. The adjustable rear arms aren't available today and I wont be back in town to pick them up for a few more weeks.

I know the rear has camber issues, you can see it just sitting on the ground and the lower suspension as well as bad arms are to blame for that one. The fronts look good asside from an alignment.

[2ndGenGuy]

If the car feels squirley then It's probably due to alignment. You replaced a ton of stuff and had everything apart. You definitely should take it in.

[Oldblueaccord]

Its possible that a worn ball joint has now wallered out the taper in the arm so even a new ball joint wont hold in tight anymore.

At the least I would get a new stock arm and throw it in there.

I can go 15k miles easy on the rear with Falken Azines 615's so 1k miles something bad is going on. I run -2 degrees camber all the way around on a stock ride height.

EDIT: its the Ingalls that makes the arm(rear). I got a post on it. do a search I can remember the part number I think I got them from Livermore performance.


wp

[-$MOKIN-]

Im thinking its your rack and pinion . same thing im going threw right now as far as uncontrollable steering when hitting a bump it jerks real bad to one side .i just did all ball joints lower control arm and bushings all the way around and both wheel bearings. First check to see if its the wheel bearing . But then check your inner tie rod . I got 17s on it that are real heavy im suspecting my rack n pinion is bad because my powering steering fluid is low im looking in going to the jy and pulling a front sway bar and do the bushings on that and gettting this cheap rack n pinion from auto zone.
I had a tie rod pop out and the tire went in the wheel well pretty deep .Then the tow truck dragged my car on a flat bed and broke my lower control arm and im for sure that the sway bar is a lil jacked up which could be some issues also.
Or are u breaking and hitting bumps and it jerks whcih could be that u need to blead your brake lines out all of the way around. Or Bad rotors will make it jerk while ur braking and hitting a bump too.

[mykwikcoupe]

No smokin its like you said at the 1st part of the post. when you hit a bump is just bounces and jumps all over the road. The steering wheel itself feels stable so I didnt think it would be the rack. Im not leaking fluid and the power steering itself works great.

What are the symptoms of a worn inner tie rod and how could one wear?

Napa sells a few sets of the adjustable rear upper control arms. Ill try and find that link you were talking about oldblue.

[kentwat]

I had a 90 integra that would go all over like you state. I gat a $40 alignment and it drove straight and tracked much better. Swapping all those front end parts just one out of place can make a drastic change in road tracking\handling.

[2oodoor]

excessive positve camber will make a car drive like a total POS three wheeled wooden jack wagon, unpredictable suspension and all

[Oldblueaccord]

http://www.ingallseng.com/38600-38620-smartarm-adjustable-link-adjusts-camber.html

i was talking rear as far as the arm.


Rockauto has a better front end kit then the SPC.

http://info.rockauto.com/getimage/getimage.php?imagekey=274760&imageurl=http%3A//info.rockauto.com/Moog/K90207_TOP.jpg

MOOG K90207 or what ever camber you need to run.

I use the SPC kit because I have nylon bushings made to that kit or I would use the one above.


wp

[-$MOKIN-]

Why not just get honda parts and grab a set of 2nd gen prelude upper control arms and get longer bolts and put some washers in the back on the upper 2 bolts at the top ?

[Tdurr]

Why not just get honda parts and grab a set of 2nd gen prelude upper control arms and get longer bolts and put some washers in the back on the upper 2 bolts at the top ?

do you do that for the front or rear?

[-$MOKIN-]

do you do that for the front or rear?

I seen Messy posted something about it .If your talking about the rear bolts and washers. I emailed him to get more information. But i think he was talking about just spacing out the upper control mount at the top 2 bolts with washers . Im going to try it when i dropp her back down this week and im going to see if i can just do that to adjust my ll camber issue in the back

[Layson]

Sounds like you need an alignment... It is your tie rods. You probably have one wheel pointed in a different direction... LOL