HEEEEELP!! please!

[RallyKid]

alright,
so a few days ago my lx started acting funny. and i cant drive it no due to the problem. It starts up perfectly fine and idles perfect. but after it gets warm, it putters violently then dies. now if i drive it, once it gets warm, it dies if i come to a complete stop or go below 10 mph. before this problem arose, it ran well. it idled where it was supposed to on a complete stop, but still had the putter problem. i thought it was the fuel filter, so i changed it, but nothing got better. then i was told its probably the o2 sensor. is that right?? i really need help. cause i need this car for work. i need to fix it a.s.a.p. and i dont want to buy a new fuel pump or o2 sensor or whatever and have it not be the problem at all. ya know?? pleeeaaaase help :bowrofl:

[b345tifall]

check your o2 sensor

[RallyKid]

alright just take it out and look at it? what exactly am i lookin for?

[b345tifall]

if its shot it will be very black and burnt looking check your thermostat too

[Buzo]

The O2 is for emissions control purposes, i don't think a bad O2 sensor will cause the car to die.

There are a lot of things to check.

I would start checking electrical problems, check if all pistons are working OK, dissconnect one spark plug at the time and see if there is change in the engine RPMS. A bad spark plug / wire will not cause any change.

Then the classy in these cars, vacuum leaks. Check the hoses that are rubbing against metals, check the vacuum actuators (with a help of a hose pull vacuum with your mouth, then plug with your tongue and feel if it holds vacuum)

[RallyKid]

well im planning on changing the spark plugs anyway. where exactly is the o2 sensor and vacuum actuators?? better yet, where and what is everything i should check for??

[Buzo]

I am thinking in something else you may want to check, the choke plate. If you take the air filter and the metal screen out, you will see the choke plate closed if the engine is cold, once the car is fired up, the choke plate will open slowly all the way. You can use your finger and move it just to check if it is not stucked or something. A stuck-closed choke plate will cause more or less the failure you are describing.

Forget about the actuators for now, start with the vacuum leaks in the hoses, which also can cause the car to die during a complete stop.

[RallyKid]

so how do i fix the vacuum leaks if there are any?

[1813mdw]

so how do i fix the vacuum leaks if there are any?

by replacing the vacuum line(small rubber hose) that leaks. you can buy vacuum line by the ft at any auto parts store for dirt cheap. buy extra hose so you know you have enough; also you can trim this stuff down to size w/ scissors.


i did a search of the site and found something that might help get you started finding the leak if you have one.

"The easy way is to get a can of carb cleaner. With the car running spray a small squirt directly into the carb, you will notice it raises the rpms for a couple of seconds. Next spray cleaner on the vacuum lines and around the connections slowly. If you idle raises again that means that there is a leak and the carb cleaner is being sucked through the hole or crack. If you do not have emissions testing I highly reccomend removing most of the vacuum lines, there is a thread concerning it posted in the HOWTO section of this board. Good luck." -a member named K-Roy

[dacantu]

My opinion check to see if your getting spark in all cylinders. Pull a spark plug and reinstall one by one whilee the car is running. Pull in order from right side to left side of engine. If your engine has combustion in all 4 cylinders as it should you then you will notice it idles differently after you pull each plug. But if when you pull a plug and there is no difference in idle/combustion then you need to replace your distributor rotor and distributor cap. Its fairly cheap and might fix your problem. If it doesn't then at that point you can go ahead and buy new spark plugs and spark plug cables.

[RallyKid]

alright update, the car starts. ive been starting it everyday the past 4 days so i dont lose charge or anything. anyway, it idles fine and everything for a couple minutes, then once it warms up, it starts to putter rapidly and then eventually dies. but before it dies, if i put it in drive, it dies right after. and if i start it right after it dies, it starts, goes to 1000rpms, then dies not even a couple seconds after starting it. i bought new spark plugs just need to change them out. NGK i believe. forgot. ha. i just really need this problem fixed. ASAP. i dont want to buy a part and change it out then find out it wasnt even the problem. ill change out the spark plugs and if that doesnt do it i might try the o2 sensor cause ive had a good number of people tell me it may be that. thanks everyone for your posts, PLEASE keep posting i need and want all the help and input i can get.

[Buzo]

One way to quickly circumbent your problem is to adjust the idle stop screw.

http://img863.imageshack.us/img863/8096/accpump.jpg (http://img863.imageshack.us/i/accpump.jpg/)

Its located in the back of the carb and you are gonna need to use both hands to adjust it (it's really hard to adjust it due to the vacuum tubes in the back of the engine). After your engine warms up the choke is retracted and then its responsibility of the idle stop to keep the idle speed up.
So adjust this screw to avoid your engine to die, then keep looking for any other failure.

[Dr_Snooz]

Start by looking for vacuum leaks. With the trouble you're having, you probably have a very big leak. If it isn't a vacuum leak, then I'd say you need a new carb.

[RallyKid]

well i had a mechanic from jiffy lube look at it, and he said its proly an exhaust leak. but my friend and i adjusted the distributor and it actually helped. it idled for almost 10 minutes(hasnt idled longer than 4 or 5 minutes y itself since this problem came up). The mechanic then told me to get a new distributor and it might help. But then my friend and i thought that maybe its the timing? could be off. we were looking for the knob or whatever to adjust it but couldnt find it. and i just read on a forum on another site that it may be the ECU. so ill check that out. the only problem with this car is that it doesnt idle by itself after it warms up. and that it dies when coming to a full stop. in order to drive this car, (its an auto trans) i have to have my left foot on the brake and right on the gas in order to keep it running. i really dont want to spend money if i dont have to.

[ShyBoyCA6]

well i had a mechanic from jiffy lube look at it, and he said its proly an exhaust leak. but my friend and i adjusted the distributor and it actually helped. it idled for almost 10 minutes(hasnt idled longer than 4 or 5 minutes y itself since this problem came up). The mechanic then told me to get a new distributor and it might help. But then my friend and i thought that maybe its the timing? could be off. we were looking for the knob or whatever to adjust it but couldnt find it. and i just read on a forum on another site that it may be the ECU. so ill check that out. the only problem with this car is that it doesnt idle by itself after it warms up. and that it dies when coming to a full stop. in order to drive this car, (its an auto trans) i have to have my left foot on the brake and right on the gas in order to keep it running. i really dont want to spend money if i dont have to.

#1: its not your timing.

#2. sounds more like a vac leak or fuel problem.

i would mess around the the idle screw on your carb and then check your distributor(which shouldn't be the problem unless it has hesitation when accel). could be possible that the fuel filters might be clogged(there are 2 of them) i really don't know anything about carbs but following Buzo idea first and adjust your idle and check them Vac. Hoses.

[RallyKid]

well i changed out the first one by the fuel tank in the rear of the car but i have no idea where the second one is. i know its supposed to be under the hood though, or so i read. and the idle adjustment screw is on the back of the carb right? i cant find that either. i was told i have to use both hands to adjust it because of all the lines. i need help locating the vacuum lines though.. lol

[GrandpaAccord]

well i changed out the first one by the fuel tank in the rear of the car but i have no idea where the second one is. i know its supposed to be under the hood though, or so i read. and the idle adjustment screw is on the back of the carb right? i cant find that either. i was told i have to use both hands to adjust it because of all the lines. i need help locating the vacuum lines though.. lol

Vacuum lines are black and many of them have numbers on them in these cars. They are like rubbery hoses about 1/4" around. Try the carb cleaner method. Did you try any of the other suggestions? Checking spark plug wires and such?
How about the choke plate? You need to do your end, we can't do it for you. When we have more info we can help!
Good luck!

[lostforawhile]

The O2 is for emissions control purposes, i don't think a bad O2 sensor will cause the car to die.

There are a lot of things to check.

I would start checking electrical problems, check if all pistons are working OK, dissconnect one spark plug at the time and see if there is change in the engine RPMS. A bad spark plug / wire will not cause any change.

Then the classy in these cars, vacuum leaks. Check the hoses that are rubbing against metals, check the vacuum actuators (with a help of a hose pull vacuum with your mouth, then plug with your tongue and feel if it holds vacuum)the 02 sensor lets the computer determine how much air to let into the manifold to create a proper mixture, it's an ass backwards fuel injection system


well i changed out the first one by the fuel tank in the rear of the car but i have no idea where the second one is. i know its supposed to be under the hood though, or so i read. and the idle adjustment screw is on the back of the carb right? i cant find that either. i was told i have to use both hands to adjust it because of all the lines. i need help locating the vacuum lines though.. lol

the other filter is right by the carb, follow the fuel line from the firewall and you'll find it, have you checked vaccume advance? if the advance diaphram has a hole in it, the engine won't advance and you will have a vaccume leak, plus the retard side of that diaphram will pull the timing retarded if the advance is broke. the fact it got better by adjusting the timing is telling me you have a bad adance diaphram

[anubis_4_99]

well i changed out the first one by the fuel tank in the rear of the car but i have no idea where the second one is. i know its supposed to be under the hood though, or so i read. and the idle adjustment screw is on the back of the carb right? i cant find that either. i was told i have to use both hands to adjust it because of all the lines. i need help locating the vacuum lines though.. lol

i hate to say this to anyone, because i at one time didn't know a nut from a bolt as well, and i don't want to come off as an ass, but it really sounds like you shouldn't be messing with your car at this point. especially considering the importance your impressing on the fact it needs to be fixed quickly

several people have told you multiple times what to look for, and instead of investigating that, you run off in another direction and just keep saying you need this fixed asap

since you don't seem to know your way around a car, look for a reasonable priced mechanic and get it fixed.

the guy at jiffy lube doesn't count as a mechanic, he's an oil monkey, and they shouldn't be allowed to speak of anything other then oil since 98% of them know about nothing else, and most of them i have met don't even know about oil.

btw, no offense meant to jiffy lube oil monkeys

[RallyKid]

thanks everyone for your suggestions. first off, everything ive done myself: changed oil, oil filter, both fuel filters, air filter and spark plugs. ive had a mechanic come look at it and he checked all the vacuum hoses(which i feel stupid for asking about those) and he said they were good. he noticed the distributor, when he turned it, moves in and out of place. its a little hard to describe. anyway, he believes its the distributor. i read about it, and my problems have the symptoms of that, as well as some other things. i tried the spark plug test, but it doesnt idle long enough to perform the entire test. the mechanic and i also noticed that the second the car dies, it sprays..excess fuel im guessing?? anyway, sprays something out of the carb. the mechanic also said he doesnt think its the fuel pump or a fuel problem. his main concern right now is the distributor, or the rotor in it. and to anubis, yes, im not a mechanic or anywhere close at all to one, but i know my general way around a vehicle. hondas, not so much because theyre different. but ive defly been learning a good amount from mine. i have not been going different directions from what people have been telling me to try. i just havent had a chance to come on here and give you the news on trying them. ive had many people tell me different things it could be. and yes your right that most of the "mechanics" from jiffy lube only know oil and what not, but the one that looked at my car had a civic around the same year as my accord and did all the work himself. and one last thing, i dont need to be lectured and told to not work on my vehicle. for your info, im not doing all this myself, besides the listed things above. i know damn well that i dont know everything or anything close to everything. but i learn from doing and getting help, which many people have given me and i thank them so much for helping me with this problem. if you didnt want to come off as an ass, you should have just either offered help, or not said anything at all. im pretty sure you know as well as i do, that you learn more about cars by working on them and also learn from failure. so to everyone that has helped me, thank you so so so much. im still continuing on trying everything you tell me. and i will continue to let you know how it works out.

[lostforawhile]

thanks everyone for your suggestions. first off, everything ive done myself: changed oil, oil filter, both fuel filters, air filter and spark plugs. ive had a mechanic come look at it and he checked all the vacuum hoses(which i feel stupid for asking about those) and he said they were good. he noticed the distributor, when he turned it, moves in and out of place. its a little hard to describe. anyway, he believes its the distributor. i read about it, and my problems have the symptoms of that, as well as some other things. i tried the spark plug test, but it doesnt idle long enough to perform the entire test. the mechanic and i also noticed that the second the car dies, it sprays..excess fuel im guessing?? anyway, sprays something out of the carb. the mechanic also said he doesnt think its the fuel pump or a fuel problem. his main concern right now is the distributor, or the rotor in it. and to anubis, yes, im not a mechanic or anywhere close at all to one, but i know my general way around a vehicle. hondas, not so much because theyre different. but ive defly been learning a good amount from mine. i have not been going different directions from what people have been telling me to try. i just havent had a chance to come on here and give you the news on trying them. ive had many people tell me different things it could be. and yes your right that most of the "mechanics" from jiffy lube only know oil and what not, but the one that looked at my car had a civic around the same year as my accord and did all the work himself. and one last thing, i dont need to be lectured and told to not work on my vehicle. for your info, im not doing all this myself, besides the listed things above. i know damn well that i dont know everything or anything close to everything. but i learn from doing and getting help, which many people have given me and i thank them so much for helping me with this problem. if you didnt want to come off as an ass, you should have just either offered help, or not said anything at all. im pretty sure you know as well as i do, that you learn more about cars by working on them and also learn from failure. so to everyone that has helped me, thank you so so so much. im still continuing on trying everything you tell me. and i will continue to let you know how it works out.

let me uncross my eyes now, I know you may know a lot about cars, but there are specific things you may not know about this car, People here know what they are talking about, we are trying to help you. The nightmare vacuum system and controls to this Accord are unique and unlike any other Honda, just "looking" at the vacuum hoses means nothing. I understand your mechanic friend may have a civic the same year, but this isn't a civic, and the engine and controls are nothing like a civic, it's an entire different ball game with this car, we will help you, but listen and follow the advice of others here and you will be back on the road

[RallyKid]

no i know theres defly stuff i dont know about this car. and i know just looking doesnt do anything. i understand everyone is helping me and im doing everything everyone is telling me to do. im sorry if my last reply offended anyone. i just got a little offended and only meant the last part of the post to that other person. im pretty sure ive made an ass of myself and i do feel stupid for blowing up about it. i understand if noone wants to help anymore and i will not hold it against anyone. i really do appeciate the help ive been given and the future help (hopefully). you guys are the reason i joined this site because you all know about these cars and i really do rely on all of your inputs. again, sorry if i offended anyone and sorry for blowing up. thanks everyone.

[lostforawhile]

no i know theres defly stuff i dont know about this car. and i know just looking doesnt do anything. i understand everyone is helping me and im doing everything everyone is telling me to do. im sorry if my last reply offended anyone. i just got a little offended and only meant the last part of the post to that other person. im pretty sure ive made an ass of myself and i do feel stupid for blowing up about it. i understand if noone wants to help anymore and i will not hold it against anyone. i really do appeciate the help ive been given and the future help (hopefully). you guys are the reason i joined this site because you all know about these cars and i really do rely on all of your inputs. again, sorry if i offended anyone and sorry for blowing up. thanks everyone.

it's cool, I'm sure everyone will still help, this site is generally full of far fewer assholes then most honda sites, cool people here, one thing you need to get is a hand vaccume pump, it's going to help a ton with the diagnostics, that and there is an actron low pressure fuel/vaccume gauge I think most aut parts stores carry it, with those tools and the diagnostics in the manual, it will help you work through this

[RallyKid]

well i hope i wasnt one of those assholes. and if i was....oops. so for the hand vaccuum pump..be prepared im gonna sound dumb here... where and what do i with it exactly? and the mechanic i had helping me, has flaked 2 days in a row and has the manual for my car so i need to get another one. lol

[anubis_4_99]

thanks everyone for your suggestions. first off, everything ive done myself: changed oil, oil filter, both fuel filters, air filter and spark plugs. ive had a mechanic come look at it and he checked all the vacuum hoses(which i feel stupid for asking about those) and he said they were good. he noticed the distributor, when he turned it, moves in and out of place. its a little hard to describe. anyway, he believes its the distributor. i read about it, and my problems have the symptoms of that, as well as some other things. i tried the spark plug test, but it doesnt idle long enough to perform the entire test. the mechanic and i also noticed that the second the car dies, it sprays..excess fuel im guessing?? anyway, sprays something out of the carb. the mechanic also said he doesnt think its the fuel pump or a fuel problem. his main concern right now is the distributor, or the rotor in it. and to anubis, yes, im not a mechanic or anywhere close at all to one, but i know my general way around a vehicle. hondas, not so much because theyre different. but ive defly been learning a good amount from mine. i have not been going different directions from what people have been telling me to try. i just havent had a chance to come on here and give you the news on trying them. ive had many people tell me different things it could be. and yes your right that most of the "mechanics" from jiffy lube only know oil and what not, but the one that looked at my car had a civic around the same year as my accord and did all the work himself. and one last thing, i dont need to be lectured and told to not work on my vehicle. for your info, im not doing all this myself, besides the listed things above. i know damn well that i dont know everything or anything close to everything. but i learn from doing and getting help, which many people have given me and i thank them so much for helping me with this problem. if you didnt want to come off as an ass, you should have just either offered help, or not said anything at all. im pretty sure you know as well as i do, that you learn more about cars by working on them and also learn from failure. so to everyone that has helped me, thank you so so so much. im still continuing on trying everything you tell me. and i will continue to let you know how it works out.


im sorry if i offended you at all, i was just suggesting that maybe you should take it to a shop and get it running, and learn later so you aren't out a car as it seems its rather important for you to have it running soon from what you've been saying

if your distributor is wiggling in the hole, that is definitely not a good sign and needs to be addressed regardless of if its the cause of the problem or not, because it soon will be a problem

trust me it is not good to let it be, this is what can happen if its left alone

http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/2198/681/5492840143_medium.jpg


to help find vacuum leaks you can use carb cleaner and spray it around the vac hoses while your car idles, if the idle changes suddenly and goes back to normal when you stop, you've found a leak, dig into it and address it. dont just spray all over the place, be specific where you spray and keep it away from areas that could ignite it.

im more then willing to offer help where i can, as i've needed alot in the past so know how it feels :D

again sorry for earlier, i was really only trying to help

[RallyKid]

its all good, im sorry for blowing it up about the whole thing. again, i feel like an ass because of it. but thanks for helpin me :)

damn i had no idea it would get so bad. im goin to pick n pull tomorrow and depending on if the mechanic gets back to me, i might just take one of another honda. im hoping its the problem, but regardless if it is or not, im going to check the vacuum hoses like many people have expressed. oh another thing..
when the mechanic was checking my car, it was idling at first. he took a spray(didnt see what it said on the bottle) and sprayed it into the carb(well, the little shield above it in the container for the air filter) and the idle changed rapidly. it sped up, then slowed down again. dont know exactly what that means...
thanks all!:wave:

[Demon1024]

/cheer Welcome!

Hiya!

it's really does sound like a choke problem honestly <--easy to check
Also sounds like your float may be screwy check the gas level in the carb before you start it and then when it dies.
If you can't see it either time have someone help you watch it

[RallyKid]

alright thanks! ill proly have someone help me. cause i dont know exactly where to check that in the carb. i only know a little about carbs cause i had a '70 f250 and learned a bit from that. hahaha. oh and when i tried to start it when the mechanic was there, it wouldnt start unless i put my foot on the gas a little while trying to start it. dont know if ive stated that before...gettin the feeling i have..lol

[RobDirt89]

I think the choke is stuck. Depending on how long the choke has been messed up (Aka running way RICH) your cat. converter may be clogged. When the internals heat up they restrict the exhaust. That is if you even still have one on the car. It sounds like you have more than one problem. Any vacuum leaks dont help either! check the intake manifold gasket. Hope this helps.

[RallyKid]

alright everybody update!

the mechanic got a new distributor, and it helped it. it now idles when in park. only thing, it surges a bit while idling. when cold, idles at about 800, but when warm, idles around 1000 to 1200. so i have no idea what could be causing the surging. it drives and runs great while moving, and still tries to die when coming to a complete stop. he thinks its proly a vacuum leak or a fuel problem, and knows there is more than one problem.

robdirt89- would you recommend changing the cat converter out? or just taking it out and checking it? im hoping its not a vacuum leak.. but everyone has brought it up that it might be that. soooo yeah haha. oh, and the mechanic told me to check the plate that sits under the carb cause it might not be tightened all the way or something along those lines, and that i could just swap it out with a better one..

again, thanks all for your inputs and help! lookin forward to more tips! haha

[Vanilla Sky]

Your problem is either a vacuum leak or a poorly adjusted carburetor. What will really help you out a TON would be to download the service manual from Paul's website. You can find the link in the General section of this website. It's stickied to the top of the forum. It will walk you through diagnosing all of your issues, and costs nothing.

[RallyKid]

sweeeeet thanks so much vanillasky!

[Vanilla Sky]

I just realized that it's in the Technical section, not the General section. Sorry about that.

[RallyKid]

oh alright. no worries. thanks again!

[Dr_Snooz]

This manual (http://honda.roadpwnage.com/manuals/pages/usdm-accord-1989-full.php) is more betterer.

[-$MOKIN-]

Just read threw this and it defently sounds like a vacuum line .Start it up and stand over it and look at every little hose line up by the carb . They sometime get brittle at the ends and u need to pull it off and cut the broke part and slide it back on. The motor is not going to blow up while ur leaning over it . Just look at all the the little hose lines to make sure there all there thats a start make sure there isnt a hose line thats not connected to somthing. and while its running feel around on the line tips to the bracket and make sure non of them are broke by wiggling each line to see it u get idle changes. It was scary until i had to do it and then it was so simple afterwards.

[RallyKid]

ok so i looked at the vacuum lines. the only ones i found with visible cracks or tears were 18 and 25. i replaced them and nothing got better. and when i sprayed carb cleaner the idle went up to 3000rpm and dropped back down 2000-2200rpm after a few seconds. i bought the gaskets and just need to replace the old ones. would the gaskets maybe possibly be causing part of this problem?? the top gasket looks pretty worn out on the edges from what i see. and the bottom gasket looks a little worn as well. ill check all the vacuum lines again when its light outside. haha.

[1813mdw]

keep at it. you'll get it figured out:hs:

[RallyKid]

yeah eventually haha. i was thinkin of just sellin the car, but ive decided against it. i love this car(when it works) and want to fix it. im learnin so much from all this and sellin it would just be givin up.

[2genbrod]

dude i had the same problem in my 87 prelude i switched out the floaters and the jets in the carbs and that fixed the problem dude try it out might work

[1813mdw]

yeah eventually haha. i was thinkin of just sellin the car, but ive decided against it. i love this car(when it works) and want to fix it. im learnin so much from all this and sellin it would just be givin up.


eventually you could convert to efi too. lot less hassle

[RallyKid]

yeah ill try that with the floaters and everything after the gaskets are replaced. even if they arent the problem, im sure they need to be replaced. i defly want to change it to efi. gots to save up money before i do that though.. lol

[anubis_4_99]

i had a few little burps and what not in my car since i've owned it.

did the full vac removal last night and she runs a million times better.

i think thats a little intense for you at the moment, but its nice not having a million vac lines to worry about

where did you spray the carb cleaner? because if the idle fluctuated that means there is a leak in that area

unless you sprayed directly in the carb, then it will always do that.

[kentwat]

Need a manual. Here: http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=25137

[RallyKid]

yeah the full vacuum removal ill wait on. i had my friends brother look at it today( only cause he knows about carbs) and he said theres something wrong with the choke. we adjusted it for 3 hours trying to fix it, and almost blew it up 3 or 4 times. it idled for a few seconds at 2000rpm in park, then rapidly went up to 5000rpm in less than 5 seconds. it still wants to die when coming to a complete stop. and on our way to pick n pull this morning, it blew white smoke, a lot of it, all over the freeway for like 2 seconds. then a few minutes later blew out blue smoke for the same period of time. which ive been told means its burning oil at a rapid rate. and when i sprayed the carb cleaner, i sprayed it directly into the carb.

[lostforawhile]

yeah the full vacuum removal ill wait on. i had my friends brother look at it today( only cause he knows about carbs) and he said theres something wrong with the choke. we adjusted it for 3 hours trying to fix it, and almost blew it up 3 or 4 times. it idled for a few seconds at 2000rpm in park, then rapidly went up to 5000rpm in less than 5 seconds. it still wants to die when coming to a complete stop. and on our way to pick n pull this morning, it blew white smoke, a lot of it, all over the freeway for like 2 seconds. then a few minutes later blew out blue smoke for the same period of time. which ive been told means its burning oil at a rapid rate. and when i sprayed the carb cleaner, i sprayed it directly into the carb.

what is the oil level? if you fill these too full it can pull oil through the oil separator and directly into the intake manifold through the pcv valve, that would account for the blue smoke, the way it's acting it seems like a large vacuum leak, have you checked the O ring under the carb base? there is a special O ring type gasket between the manifold and the EFE heater plate under the carb, if it leaks, you will have issues like this, there are also coolant passages through the carb, one of those passages goes through that same gasket, if it's bad, pressurized coolant can be pulled directly into the intake manifold, this will make it seem like it has a blown head gasket, when it's really a 5 dollar seal

[RallyKid]

:banghead:ya know, i was actually curious about that oil level to be honest. i put in the reccomended amount and when i check the dip stick, its a little over. i didnt check the ring on the bottom. i checked the gasket closer to the top. now when i go to check that bottom o ring, ill need to take off the entire carb right? i already bought the gaskets. one is cardboardish but didnt match up with the one already in there. the other one is rubber plasticish...kinda hard to explain haha, but i didnt compare it to the bottom one because i didnt go that far. oh and when i take off the screws to the carb, will i be able to just lift off? after disconneting the vacuum hoses of course..

[RallyKid]

ummmmm.....
ok this is weird..
so i was looking at the vacuum lines when my neighbor came out and asked what it was doing, so i told him and he asked about the o2 sensor, the distributor and if it was timed right. so we talked about that for a little. then he told me it could have just had bad gas in it. then i started thinking and remembered that right before this happened, i did fill it up. that same day. it was pretty much empty today from all the running around to different people getting help, so i went and filled it up. now the past weeks, its been doing good when i first start it, but fumbled and died after about 5 minutes of driving. now after i filled it...it didnt do that. i just got back from driving it for almost half an hour, and it ran perfectly. no fumbling, no shaking, got up to speed really well. im dumb founded right now. the only thing is it idles a little high but i just have to adjust that. its proly from my friends brother messin with it yesterday. but this is sooo weird! it works! im gonna post another update later and let you all know if anything changes or the dying and fumbling comes back..:bandance:

[lostforawhile]

:banghead:ya know, i was actually curious about that oil level to be honest. i put in the reccomended amount and when i check the dip stick, its a little over. i didnt check the ring on the bottom. i checked the gasket closer to the top. now when i go to check that bottom o ring, ill need to take off the entire carb right? i already bought the gaskets. one is cardboardish but didnt match up with the one already in there. the other one is rubber plasticish...kinda hard to explain haha, but i didnt compare it to the bottom one because i didnt go that far. oh and when i take off the screws to the carb, will i be able to just lift off? after disconneting the vacuum hoses of course..

I have the O ring type one here still in the package, if you need it, I don't have a factory type carb anymore of course

[RallyKid]

I have the O ring type one here still in the package, if you need it, I don't have a factory type carb anymore of course

yeah maybe. ill check out the o ring on mine and get back to you on that

[lostforawhile]

yeah maybe. ill check out the o ring on mine and get back to you on that

if it's running good, thats a mess you don't want to get into , it could have been the combination of bad gas and the distributor problem, did you change both fuel filters? if the gas was bad they need to be changed, I'll hang on to the gasket if you need it, no charge, I have no use for it

[RallyKid]

if it's running good, thats a mess you don't want to get into , it could have been the combination of bad gas and the distributor problem, did you change both fuel filters? if the gas was bad they need to be changed, I'll hang on to the gasket if you need it, no charge, I have no use for it

yeah i did change both fuel filters. thats what i was thinkin too. i changed them right after the problem first evolved. should i change them again?
well thanks man :D yeah ill take a look at mine and let you know