View Full Version : De Vacuum Stock Carb

03-22-2011, 09:42 PM
Hey, I am trying to take off as much vacuum related stuff as I can on my stock carb. I got the box out, and it still runs fine infact seems a little better. I had looked at this thread: http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11067 but since thats for a 3g its a little differant. I dont know if I have an a/c idle diaphram like the one shown so I dont know how to convert to a mechanical secondary and the layout of the carb is slightly different so I dont want to mess it up. Can anyone help me out?

03-22-2011, 11:54 PM
i would say the best way is to get a Weber conversion and it would run way better.

03-23-2011, 05:48 AM
Ya that's what I plan to do I just figured since most of this stuff will be taken out when I do that I would run it with as little as possible until then. Would the cheapest place be from redline? Or does anyone on here theh want to sell me?

03-23-2011, 04:58 PM
I got all the vacumm lines taken out and plugged except the vacuum advance from the distributor and the car seems to run way better and have alot more power. The only problem now is that it idles high and the idle screw seems to have no effect on it.

03-24-2011, 11:59 AM
My boss helped me look at it and he says it is running really lean and that I may have a vacuum leak, but im pretty sure I got everything capped that was making vacuum. The car seems to run great, much better than before I started. What can I check or adjust to fix it?

03-24-2011, 05:53 PM
Check carb gaskets and all dash pots for vacuum leaks. Check your intake gasket too.

03-24-2011, 06:13 PM
The vacuums that i T together from the distributor go into the Idle diaphragm right? I think that is the problem I didnt remember where they went to until I looked at the diagram again after I left work. I will try that tomorrow and let you know how it works.

03-25-2011, 02:40 PM
Does anyone have a diagram besides the vacuum one showing what each vacuum port is on the carbon and maybe what the different dashpots are?

03-28-2011, 04:31 PM
I ended up getting it to run perfect after i took off the idle diaphragm.

03-29-2011, 06:54 PM
Here is a before and after picture.


03-30-2011, 08:02 PM

03-31-2011, 06:01 PM
Thanks man, it runs 10x better than it did when I started. The only vacuum lines left are the one from the distributor and the one going to the climate control. I just have to rev it up a little when I first start it since I took out the choke and all of the idle vacuums, but after it warms up a bit it idles perfect at 800-1000 rpm. If anyone needs help doing this let me know it was really easy and if you cant afford a Weber right now its probably the next best thing.


04-04-2011, 02:55 PM
At the least, you probably want to keep the vacuum lines that go to the PCV, vacuum advance and the brake booster.

04-04-2011, 08:13 PM
I still have all those, I didnt mean I removed every single line. The last pic is current except ive run a new line with a filter so it gets air from where the charcoal canister was to the intake line on the carb. I removed all the lines that were connected to the black box, and all of the air control diaphrams and valves. I also removed the cruise, idle vacuums/diaphram, and choke.

05-12-2012, 09:54 AM
Okay so I'm trying to duplicate what this fella did before I shell out money on a Weber kit. I think I have a pretty good handle on it generally, and the pics are a big help, but there's a couple small points I've run into so far.

First, the big dryer hose that comes off the exhaust and hooks to the flapper on the intake. I see that the hose is gone, but should that line be plugged up, or does it not matter? Second, I'm not too clear in general on what devices get pulled off the carb and how to delete the choke.

05-12-2012, 10:30 AM
I want some machinery parts for my car,what I can't found it in the markert,please some body help me to finding this,Thanks.............

spam in a can reported

05-12-2012, 02:31 PM
I could use a little help finding my way around this carb and what ports are what, etc.

Here is the back of the carb. Do these lower four all need to be plugged up? Is one the equivalent of the "power port" on the 3G carb, that needs something hooked up to it?


I presume the distributor needs to be hooked up to one of these spots. Speaking of the distributor, I can only seem to find one vacuum connection on it, the black dashpot on the side. I thought I had pulled another hose off it, but now I can't find the other one.


Driver's side. I know I should run a line with a breather filter to that big inlet that was hooked up to the charcoal canister. I'm also guessing the dashpot and the other device hooked to the throttle will do nothing. Not too sure what to do with the four nozzles down on the manifold or the blue and yellow thermovalves.



Left the choke on for now as I don't want to take apart all the linkages, but I did remove the choke plate. Also I understand the actuator on the right can be removed and a vacuum hole behind it plugged. I just want to make sure I am not missing something.



I did try to run the car with all this stuff ditched and most of the holes plugged up. It started up and then flooded and died (all that wetness is gas spilled over the top of the carb) and I can't start it now. Distributor vacuum is not hooked up though and I'm sure one of these lines on the carb needs vacuum on it.

06-11-2012, 08:30 AM
Well I haven't been able to figure this out yet, I wasn't really wanting to spend the money on a Weber just yet but my car is a paperweight...