What is wrong?

[prince_frog]

Hi everyone, I am currently having an idle issue that just doesn't quite seem right to me. I converted my 89 lxi from auto to manual. It works but the problem I am having is when your in gear and coming to a stop; you pull into neutral and the idle goes up to 2000rpm for about 10sec the drops back down to what it should be 700-1000rpm. I was wandering if I did anything wrong or if anyone has run into this issue b4 please let me know how you would or can correct this. Thanks in advance

[charliekuney]

Are you pushing in the gas pedal when this happens?

:kekeke:

[firefighterwhite89]

Is It Running too hot OR cold when you notice this?

Is your A/C running when this happens?

Did you change anything on your F.I.?

[prince_frog]

no im not pushing on gas pedal when this occurs.

doesn't run too hot nor too cold, temperature is where it should be. I took AC system out. I haven't changed anything on the FI.

I starting to believe that it might have something to do with my clutch, as I put a new clutch in and the adjusted the clutch cable til I couldn't any more. The reason behind that is I like my clutch firm and not soft.

[ShyBoyCA6]

you said you changed from auto to 5spd im guessing that you accel cable might be on to tight and leaving the butterfly a bit open. could be getting stuck i would check both.

[lostforawhile]

you said you changed from auto to 5spd im guessing that you accel cable might be on to tight and leaving the butterfly a bit open. could be getting stuck i would check both.

this is a carb? there is a dashpot on the auto carb that keeps the throttle from closing to quick and stalling the motor from the drag of the torque converter,it's not needed on the manual cars, I'm not sure if it's on the fi cars of not, it might be built into the ecu for the auto cars, does anyone know for sure? in other words the ecu might be programmed to drop the idle slower on automatic cars, or there may be some sort of input to do this

[firefighterwhite89]

Could it be the Auto Trans Shift position sensor(RED)?
http://i875.photobucket.com/albums/ab320/firefighterwhite89/ATshiftsensor.jpg
What about the Auto Trans Idle Control(RED)? Or the A/C Idle Boost Valve(GREEN)? The Blue Square is where the TB Diaphragm is.
http://i875.photobucket.com/albums/ab320/firefighterwhite89/ATtoMTissues.jpg

What are we supposed to do to the A/C Idle Boost Valve after the A/C delete? Just leave it hooked up? Cap all holes?

[lostforawhile]

I would almost bet the auto transmission idle control, does the same thing as the dashpot on the carb, I'm just not sure if it boosts idle, or is a primary idle control. if it just boosts it, it might be able to be disconnected, not sure if this will throw a code, instead of a mechanical dashpot the computer does the same thing

[prince_frog]

Yea i dont think its the throttle cable. But I'm going to locate the AC idle valve and disconnect that and see what happens. Plus Im gonna check out the AT idle valve. What I don't get is I did everything correctly and it just idles weird. I even got a 5spd fuel injected ecu for the car. Runs alot better with the 5spd ecu than it did when i was running the auto ecu.

[firefighterwhite89]

Yea i dont think its the throttle cable. But I'm going to locate the AC idle valve and disconnect that and see what happens. Plus Im gonna check out the AT idle valve. What I don't get is I did everything correctly and it just idles weird. I even got a 5spd fuel injected ecu for the car. Runs alot better with the 5spd ecu than it did when i was running the auto ecu.

was the car originally carbed or Fuel Injected?

[ShyBoyCA6]

I would almost bet the auto transmission idle control, does the same thing as the dashpot on the carb, I'm just not sure if it boosts idle, or is a primary idle control. if it just boosts it, it might be able to be disconnected, not sure if this will throw a code, instead of a mechanical dashpot the computer does the same thing

im using a IACV from a auto and seems to run fine

[ShyBoyCA6]

Yea i dont think its the throttle cable. But I'm going to locate the AC idle valve and disconnect that and see what happens. Plus Im gonna check out the AT idle valve. What I don't get is I did everything correctly and it just idles weird. I even got a 5spd fuel injected ecu for the car. Runs alot better with the 5spd ecu than it did when i was running the auto ecu.

well mine would stay at at 2k and then go down after while i changed the IACV seemed to be the problem and stayed at about 1.5k and i remember messing with the TBC and after that the car started to run just fine no more high ilde.

by any chance did you clean the butterlfy?

[Bglad420]

Most likely you need to adjust your IAVC in a little bit.

[prince_frog]

Actually I did clean the butterfly when I had the head off.

The car is originally fuel injected no carb part

I have been trying to adjust the idle screw and I think I have it screw in close to the max (screw in most of the way in)

[gp02a0083]

I don't really know with this one , you said you removed the A/C. A/c fast idle circuit?

[prince_frog]

I removed the A/C components but no electrical removed.

[YK86]

If you have the idle adjusting screw in all the way and car fully warmed up, then the car should run like it's about to stall.

With the intake pipe off the throttlebody and the car idling, use your finger to cover up the hole in front of the butterfly valve. There is an upper and lower on the firewall side. If the idle goes down when you cover the upper hole, your fast idle valve isn't closing properly. If you cover the lower hole and idle drops, it's your IACV. If you cover both and they still don't drop, you have an air leak from where the FIV/IACV mate to the manifold.

If the FIV is the cause, the nut is probably too loose and causing the car to run like it's always cold. For the IACV, it's either jammed/needs adjusting, getting the wrong signal (ecu telling it to idle faster) or the solenoid isn't working. A quick test is unplug the connector at the IACV. When you reconnect it, you should hear a quick whooshing sound. That tells you the solenoid is still responding so it's probably just dirty inside. If it doesn't do anything, get a new IACV.

The AC removed shouldn't have anything to do with it. If I recall, the IACV gets a signal when the AC is on (and compressor running) to bump up the idle speed a bit to compensate for the extra load. If the AC stuff is removed, it shouldn't be getting this signal at all.

[prince_frog]

YK86- wow man very well explained and said. I will try that before I try anything to confirm working components. Thanks alot to the guys who gave advice. I will let you guys know what I find.

[YK86]

No problem. I know how it feels to deal with stuff like this and it can be a pain if you don't know the tricks to diagnosing. Plus no one wants to throw parts at it hoping it'll get better.

One thing I did leave out was that if the throttlebody gasket is cracked/no good, this my also cause high idle problems but that usually only happens if you removed the tb and reused the old gasket.

Also, I find on most Honda's the idle screw usually seems to hit the right idle roughly 2 turns out from all the way in. This is just a rough starting point but a good place to set it after taking it apart or cleaning it out.

Good luck!

[2oodoor]

Hi everyone, I am currently having an idle issue that just doesn't quite seem right to me. I converted my 89 lxi from auto to manual. It works but the problem I am having is when your in gear and coming to a stop; you pull into neutral and the idle goes up to 2000rpm for about 10sec the drops back down to what it should be 700-1000rpm. I was wandering if I did anything wrong or if anyone has run into this issue b4 please let me know how you would or can correct this. Thanks in advance

If this is happening when you push the clutch in I would say the clutch cable and housing is attached (tie wrap or something) to the throttle cable housing there somewhere along the drivers side fender well. The clutch cable can flex some and lift up which in turn pulls slightley on the throttle cable.

[1987AccordLx-i]

if you did auto to manual swap the ECU must be changed.. did you change it? i believe the ecu high idles the auto a bit so it wont stall under deceleration.. could be wrong tho