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gp02a0083
03-30-2011, 10:33 AM
ok well figuring i haven't updated much i wanted to make a new thread and start off fresh.


Start off with when I had both hatches, I sold goldie ( my 87 hatchback) roughly a month or so ago. These are the last pictures of them together.
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/lawren71/New%201989%20Accord/DSCN1407.jpg?t=1301509842

http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/lawren71/New%201989%20Accord/62773_611657935746_31503800_34979094_3963596_n.jpg ?t=1301509941

http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/lawren71/New%201989%20Accord/59897_611658853906_31503800_34979117_5470090_n.jpg ?t=1301509982

gp02a0083
03-30-2011, 10:43 AM
Now onto the good stuff.

Picked up my 89 lx-i hatchback in September 2010 with 57,xxx miles! She was dealer maintained the whole time and garage kept until 5 years ago. A 91 year old lady owned this car and her son sold it to me for a reasonable price.

http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/lawren71/New%201989%20Accord/61115_611524607936_31503800_34973175_5148157_n.jpg ?t=1301510203

very clean engine bay, they even had a Honda battery installed. I installed the strut tower bar I got from Justin.
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/lawren71/New%201989%20Accord/58478_611525735676_31503800_34973205_5470280_n.jpg ?t=1301510230

The interior door panels are pretty clean too , not much damage from the seatbelts
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/lawren71/New%201989%20Accord/61115_611524622906_31503800_34973178_1632283_n.jpg ?t=1301510323

Hell the interior is soo clean that this car was never smoked in at all, or at least i can tell from the almost like new cig lighter.
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/lawren71/New%201989%20Accord/61115_611524617916_31503800_34973177_3470992_n.jpg ?t=1301510388


copy of the bill of sale and additional original paperwork that came with the car.
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/lawren71/New%201989%20Accord/63869_611524183786_31503800_34973171_7704485_n.jpg ?t=1301510462

and the best part yet, there isn't a spot of rust in the fender wells or the chassis from being under it.

http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/lawren71/New%201989%20Accord/Photo0038.jpg?t=1301510551

gp02a0083
03-30-2011, 10:54 AM
installed my JDM corner lights

http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/lawren71/New%201989%20Accord/DSCN1426.jpg?t=1301510669

installed my rear lower bars, i didn't feel like painting them again so they look liek crap, and now the only thing i found under the car thats a little bit rusty is the tail pipe.
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/lawren71/New%201989%20Accord/100_0587.jpg?t=1301510727

installed my rear upper bar
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/lawren71/New%201989%20Accord/100_0586.jpg?t=1301510803

took a few shots inside my new workplace, we were constructing the building at the time , so i sneaked my car in. It was snowing that day and i didnt have a way to dry the car off.

http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/lawren71/New%201989%20Accord/Photo0137.jpg?t=1301510849

http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/lawren71/New%201989%20Accord/Photo0133.jpg?t=1301510849

http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/lawren71/New%201989%20Accord/Photo0135.jpg?t=1301510849

http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/lawren71/New%201989%20Accord/Photo0132.jpg?t=1301510921

http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/lawren71/New%201989%20Accord/Photo0131.jpg?t=1301511250

gp02a0083
03-30-2011, 11:05 AM
About a month ago driving home from work i experienced a front lower ball joint failure, the nut sheared right off. I ended up replacing the upper and lower control arms, strut and Axle ( im glad i horde parts and had these on the shelf in the garage). We later found out that the axle put a small hole in the back of the oil pan. I ordered another pan from rockauto, and since then i was having issues with the car chewing up oil. While diagnosing the problem i found that this engine has very good compression 180psi for all 4 cylinders, later a bore scope was used to check the cylinder, and i was amazed to see the original cross hatching in the cylinder from the factory.

We later realized after dropping the oil pan that Dorman messed up, they fabricated the pan incorrectly causing a high buildup of pressure in the crank case.
the original pan should have a spacing like this:

http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/lawren71/New%201989%20Accord/100_0595.jpg?t=1301511614

and the Dorman pan looked like this:
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/lawren71/New%201989%20Accord/100_0591.jpg?t=1301511614

I got another pan from Lost ( Had to straighten out the pan and re-thread the oil pan bolt even tho it was a "good" pan ) and since then its been smooth sailing.

i washed her up and took a few pictures the other day when it was warmer outside

http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/lawren71/New%201989%20Accord/100_0590.jpg?t=1301511614

Hopefully in the next few months i can fix a few dings she has and paint her, black is tough because any imperfections you left will be seen, but when its done right it looks like glass.

i plan on installing fog lights like i had on my 87 , maybe going more for the yellow OEM look, i want to get new rims the SE-i's i have have held up well but its time for something new. i have a box of goodies to be installed this spring also note some oldsmobile parts in the background like the taillight :

http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/lawren71/New%201989%20Accord/Photo0081.jpg?t=1301511251

88LXi68
03-30-2011, 11:29 AM
New car looks good! You should remove those rubber strips around the rear arches though.




i want to get new rims the SE-i's i have have held up well but its time for something new.
also shamless plug....
http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=75012

stat1K
03-30-2011, 11:52 AM
love the blacky!

gp02a0083
03-30-2011, 12:47 PM
@ 88lxi

yah i have been looking at those rims for a little bit now, i just ended up buying new front tires due to a sidewall defect in my falken's. From what im understanding you have to bump up the tire pressure on these a little bit.

and removing the rubber strip is probably a good idea, a lot of junk gets stuck up in there and sits.

idk about this area with the 16's my SE-i's are already dented just from local driving. You have seen the area I am in, i work closer to New brunswick now than i was in jackson. Dodging pot holes as it is makes it look like your driving drunk. This is the reason i haven't just spent the money on the k-sports or the XYZ's (if there even legit)


thanks stat1k, i plan on trying to keep this one running for a long time.

charliekuney
03-30-2011, 03:32 PM
love the blacky!

love the blacky!

love the blacky!

love the blacky!

love the blacky!

love the blacky!

forrest89sei
03-30-2011, 03:42 PM
Clean Car!!!!!! Odd having a Coupe Owners manual?


I want :D

89T
03-30-2011, 04:12 PM
what Stat1k said. lol.

Pico
03-30-2011, 04:51 PM
Love the Hatch

ShyBoyCA6
03-30-2011, 05:17 PM
thats the first black hatch ive seen :jaw: keep her clean bro!

87roach
03-30-2011, 07:09 PM
Black beauty right there.

Fuck is that nice, you better take damn good care of her!!

Tdurr
03-30-2011, 07:58 PM
I WANT A HATCH!!!
as a DD.

gp02a0083
03-30-2011, 08:02 PM
thats the first black hatch ive seen :jaw: keep her clean bro!

i bought this new hatch 5 years to the date of getting rid of my old one. Odd thing is it is practically the exact same car, only option this different is the pwr antenna

My first 89' hatch:

http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/lawren71/DSC00322.jpg?t=1301543036

http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/lawren71/DSC00213.jpg?t=1301543036

had the back hatch glass shatter on me in the summer , that decal on the rear glass was already there.

That car ended on September 9th 2005. We had really bad storms that year, hydroplaned going through an intersection into a curb doing 15mph :wtf: The hit was just right, took a 3" gash out of the tire, the rims were still ok. The body separated 1"-1/4" under the area where the battery sits. we tried to use a makeshift frame machine, but it wasn't working. The auto had a bad slip in third gear, so I decided to strip parts and get rid of it. I should have stripped more parts off the car , but I didnt have the room to store anything else.

http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/lawren71/DSC00538.jpg?t=1301543073

http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/lawren71/8414580038_large.jpg?t=1301543741

http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/lawren71/8414580039_large.jpg?t=1301543741

http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/lawren71/8414580041_large.jpg?t=1301543741

Tdurr
03-30-2011, 09:16 PM
dang 15mph?

MessyHonda
03-30-2011, 11:26 PM
now thats some clean mods

88LXi68
03-31-2011, 06:42 AM
It is kind of interesting that all your hatches have been automatic...:sad2:

gp02a0083
03-31-2011, 12:06 PM
i know this was not really by choice. I was going to do the manual swap to my gold hatch , but the trans gave out and i didnt have the resources at the time. I really want the 5spd in this hatch , i just need a donor car that i can swap stuff over and have a reference

gp02a0083
04-06-2011, 09:41 PM
bump with some not so recent pictures

http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/lawren71/New%201989%20Accord/DSCN1604.jpg?t=1302153960

http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/lawren71/New%201989%20Accord/DSCN1606-1.jpg?t=1302153960

http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/lawren71/New%201989%20Accord/DSCN1610-1.jpg?t=1302153960

Hondamonster
04-07-2011, 07:19 AM
your screenname is wierd.
that hatch is clean.
that is all.

HON-DUH
04-07-2011, 10:10 AM
Damn that is a clean hatchback...57k miles....sweet

Xaisk
04-07-2011, 10:50 AM
The rear strut bar is nice and all but I would cut holes in the covers where the bar would stick through so you dont have huge gaps in those slots.

gp02a0083
04-07-2011, 11:43 AM
The rear strut bar is nice and all but I would cut holes in the covers where the bar would stick through so you dont have huge gaps in those slots.

thats exactly what i wanted to do with my gold hatch, it would look super clean that way, i just don't want to cut up my originals. if anyone has a spare set of those covers let me know. I did have a crazy idea of making another bar and have it welded to a b-pilar bar, but i dont have much time to do that at the moment.

hondamonster, the name is odd, i created the name after i got really into the older Gundam series. The screen names comes from the Gundam Model: Rx-78Gp02A "Physalis" in the series with the year: 0083

but always my cars are clean

i may change my screen name soon, cuz it really looks like a spam name or something.

gp02a0083
04-24-2011, 05:38 AM
got some work done to the hatchback yesterday. I replaced the torque strut bushings as the engine side was kinda worn, i noticed i still have a bit of side to side play in the front joint, even with the anchor replacements i got. However i noticed there is no other movement otherwise. While i had most of the stock intake pipe off i replaced almost all of those SOB little coolant lines. I didn't want to chance a hose bursting on a road trip, the old lines were probably the original ones on the car because they didn't have flex to them at all, they were solid.

picked up a cheap plastic welder at harbor freight for some random projects that would need plastic fused together. Wish i had the money for it , they had a small electrical powder coating kit. Next month I will probably pick this up

mtaylor
10-03-2011, 12:15 PM
Looks awesome, done any more work to her?

89jdmaccord
10-10-2011, 07:14 PM
bump it up clean hatch man

Hondamonster
10-12-2011, 03:16 PM
You should slam it and put it on prelude sawblades. I see that looking super nice.

gp02a0083
10-13-2011, 03:12 AM
i actually really like mesh or the stock style sei rims on it, was thinking of getting the newer multi spoke honda wheels in 15 or 16 inch, but first things first, rear disk swap.

gp02a0083
11-20-2011, 09:35 PM
Looks awesome, done any more work to her?

Just did a bit today.
Had a free weekend I got a few things done around the house and to the car. I replaced the fuel filter and cleaned up the fuel system and the ignition system being i was getting around 25mpg. Checked the plugs and re-gapped them and reset the distributor, now im getting around 30 average 50/50 highway town driving.

I decided to work on the front end and found another part i had hidden in my house.

The sides of the integra lip are about 3/4" too long on each side, i decided to keep the ends being that they work with the pre-facelift hatch bumper.
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/lawren71/New%201989%20Accord/100_0925.jpg
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/lawren71/New%201989%20Accord/100_0924.jpg

Im planning on mounting the lip with the original slide clips
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/lawren71/New%201989%20Accord/100_0927.jpg

If you know how to solder you can do this too, i bought a crummy $10 plastic welder from Harbor Freight. Practice on 2mm thick HDPE or LDPE to get the hang of it.
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/lawren71/New%201989%20Accord/100_0929.jpg

after cutting:
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/lawren71/New%201989%20Accord/100_0931.jpg

after careful planning the lip fits like a glove without bolts to the bumper
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/lawren71/New%201989%20Accord/100_0959.jpg

New project for the winter will involve making molds of this item and a bit of extra work. I might be able to make repo parts for coupes, sedan's and hatch's.

http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/lawren71/New%201989%20Accord/100_0915.jpg

obdriver6
11-23-2011, 12:36 PM
It always look cleaner with lip ends instead of just leaving them cut.

gp02a0083
10-09-2013, 09:04 AM
I can't believe that its been over 2 year since i've posted in my thread. Well Life takes us down many paths, for me that path resulted in my father passing away January 2012 due to health issues. I haven't had time to do much work to my black hatch and it's been neglected other than basic maintenance. In the mean time i was able to get my father's tool box out of Strauss after they closed their doors only 3 months after he passed away. It's kinda symbolic that he worked for them for 30+ years and was their top mechanic and closed the doors shortly after he passed. I thought it was only fitting to only use his truck to move his tool box back to the home he built.

http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/lawren71/Dads%20Toolbox/DSCN0057.jpg (http://s1008.photobucket.com/user/lawren71/media/Dads%20Toolbox/DSCN0057.jpg.html)

http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/lawren71/Dads%20Toolbox/Photo0370.jpg (http://s1008.photobucket.com/user/lawren71/media/Dads%20Toolbox/Photo0370.jpg.html)

http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/lawren71/Dads%20Toolbox/Tool%20Box%20cleaned%20up/DSCN0102.jpg (http://s1008.photobucket.com/user/lawren71/media/Dads%20Toolbox/Tool%20Box%20cleaned%20up/DSCN0102.jpg.html)

Just some of the tools he had in the box, I've clean it up a lot since then
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/lawren71/Dads%20Toolbox/Tool%20Box%20cleaned%20up/DSCN0101.jpg (http://s1008.photobucket.com/user/lawren71/media/Dads%20Toolbox/Tool%20Box%20cleaned%20up/DSCN0101.jpg.html)

http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/lawren71/Dads%20Toolbox/Tool%20Box%20cleaned%20up/DSCN0098.jpg (http://s1008.photobucket.com/user/lawren71/media/Dads%20Toolbox/Tool%20Box%20cleaned%20up/DSCN0098.jpg.html)

I put these tools to good work on all of our vehicles we own. Just recently I was able to get some work done to my hatch.

gp02a0083
10-09-2013, 09:11 AM
Just before Sandy hit us here in NJ I finished updating the suspension with bilstein Struts and new springs.
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/lawren71/New%201989%20Accord/DSCN7671-Copy.jpg (http://s1008.photobucket.com/user/lawren71/media/New%201989%20Accord/DSCN7671-Copy.jpg.html)

they looked really good compared to the olds cruddy OEM ones that were installed from the factory
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/lawren71/New%201989%20Accord/DSCN2859-Copy.jpg (http://s1008.photobucket.com/user/lawren71/media/New%201989%20Accord/DSCN2859-Copy.jpg.html)

however now with the new springs the ride height was increased. I'm ok with that being I frequently drive down dirt roads and will help during the snow season. (added cargo ones in the rear so i can haul some heavy stuff in the hatch, I've been able to transport a V-8 engine with my first hatch)
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/lawren71/New%201989%20Accord/DSCN7699.jpg (http://s1008.photobucket.com/user/lawren71/media/New%201989%20Accord/DSCN7699.jpg.html)

I managed to find a set of 2-dorr vent visors, wet sanded them and polished them up, also just before sandy i got my new C-1's and went 15" with kuhmo tires after i was pissed with every set of falken 912's and kept getting sidewall bubbles.

http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/lawren71/New%201989%20Accord/Photo0497_zps43503785.jpg (http://s1008.photobucket.com/user/lawren71/media/New%201989%20Accord/Photo0497_zps43503785.jpg.html)

http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/lawren71/New%201989%20Accord/135269_982943985526_1283572969_o_zps33c42202.jpg (http://s1008.photobucket.com/user/lawren71/media/New%201989%20Accord/135269_982943985526_1283572969_o_zps33c42202.jpg.h tml)

gp02a0083
10-09-2013, 09:26 AM
About A month ago I needed to replace my exhaust that was rotted out, this also pushed me to get the rear disc swap done. I Had a sticky Drivers side caliper , so i replaced them all

got a lot of work to do.....
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/lawren71/1003540_10100269257527866_332477235_n_zps1fbf2079. jpg (http://s1008.photobucket.com/user/lawren71/media/1003540_10100269257527866_332477235_n_zps1fbf2079. jpg.html)

Paul from techna-fit in Indiana helped me out by extending the knuckle to caliper lines 1", this helped with it binding, making the flex line 2" longer would have been better.
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/lawren71/Photo0620_zps9696ff7b.jpg (http://s1008.photobucket.com/user/lawren71/media/Photo0620_zps9696ff7b.jpg.html)

http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/lawren71/New%201989%20Accord/DSCN8349_zpsf2dca024.jpg (http://s1008.photobucket.com/user/lawren71/media/New%201989%20Accord/DSCN8349_zpsf2dca024.jpg.html)

http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/lawren71/New%201989%20Accord/DSCN8351_zps904b4b6c.jpg (http://s1008.photobucket.com/user/lawren71/media/New%201989%20Accord/DSCN8351_zps904b4b6c.jpg.html)

After this picture was taken i replaced both upper control arms with the ball joints
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/lawren71/New%201989%20Accord/DSCN8352_zps355ff40e.jpg (http://s1008.photobucket.com/user/lawren71/media/New%201989%20Accord/DSCN8352_zps355ff40e.jpg.html)

http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/lawren71/New%201989%20Accord/DSCN8355_zps81e36502.jpg (http://s1008.photobucket.com/user/lawren71/media/New%201989%20Accord/DSCN8355_zps81e36502.jpg.html)

onto replacing the Exhaust!!!!!! Picked everything up for a really good price, only spent a total of $300 for my Stainless steel 2.25" exhaust, Magnoflow Cat, Jones resonator, SS flanges, Flowmaster 50 series muffler and flex pipe. I did want to use the DC sports headders I have being i have two complete sets, however i needed to fix the EGR port as they were cracked on both. For the time being My friend and I modified the Stock 4-2-1 down pipe. We found a few little odd things with it, near the flex pipe there is a inner pipe that chokes it down a lot, this was removed to improve flow.
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/lawren71/New%201989%20Accord/DSCN8354_zpsdf218b03.jpg (http://s1008.photobucket.com/user/lawren71/media/New%201989%20Accord/DSCN8354_zpsdf218b03.jpg.html)

old stuff, the muffler pulled right off the car that's how rotted it was, it also sounded like a maraca
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/lawren71/New%201989%20Accord/DSCN8356_zpsf911ba2b.jpg (http://s1008.photobucket.com/user/lawren71/media/New%201989%20Accord/DSCN8356_zpsf911ba2b.jpg.html)

http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/lawren71/New%201989%20Accord/DSCN8357_zpsecf9dfc3.jpg (http://s1008.photobucket.com/user/lawren71/media/New%201989%20Accord/DSCN8357_zpsecf9dfc3.jpg.html)

My buddy Justin helping me out with fabricating the exhaust
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/lawren71/New%201989%20Accord/DSCN8365_zpsc1f7a2fa.jpg (http://s1008.photobucket.com/user/lawren71/media/New%201989%20Accord/DSCN8365_zpsc1f7a2fa.jpg.html)

I'll post more pictures when I get home later

Dr_Snooz
10-10-2013, 06:38 PM
The new brakes look awesome! Post some pics of the new exhaust installed.

gp02a0083
10-11-2013, 05:03 AM
Crude , yet effective way to mock up the exhaust

http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/lawren71/New%201989%20Accord/DSCN8378_zps45c179b1.jpg (http://s1008.photobucket.com/user/lawren71/media/New%201989%20Accord/DSCN8378_zps45c179b1.jpg.html)

Justin took his time tacking the exhaust, the hatch's have really weird bends due to the fact it travels under the sub frame area where the control arm connects to.
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/lawren71/New%201989%20Accord/DSCN8401_zpsf2b6d7d4.jpg (http://s1008.photobucket.com/user/lawren71/media/New%201989%20Accord/DSCN8401_zpsf2b6d7d4.jpg.html)

Took the exhaust back out to run some more weld beads, still gotta drop the exhaust again as we found a few little pin holes. In the picture is the 2.25" SS vibrant exhaust flange on the 2.25" Magnaflow Cat, SS2.25" pipe to a Jones 17" long resonator flipped in the direction to improve flow. It sounded really throaty before adding the flow-master 50 series muffler
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/lawren71/New%201989%20Accord/DSCN8395_zpsc2b710a3.jpg (http://s1008.photobucket.com/user/lawren71/media/New%201989%20Accord/DSCN8395_zpsc2b710a3.jpg.html)

http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/lawren71/New%201989%20Accord/DSCN8403_zps5d168da6.jpg (http://s1008.photobucket.com/user/lawren71/media/New%201989%20Accord/DSCN8403_zps5d168da6.jpg.html)

http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/lawren71/New%201989%20Accord/DSCN8408_zpsfe3914fd.jpg (http://s1008.photobucket.com/user/lawren71/media/New%201989%20Accord/DSCN8408_zpsfe3914fd.jpg.html)

So here is a side shot, the disc brakes look great behind my C-1's, the lowest part of the exhaust system can be seen there near the tire, no real way around it due to the subframe and control arms. Otherwise the exhaust tucked really nice almost as if it was meant to be there.
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/lawren71/New%201989%20Accord/DSCN8413_zpsd91d5b29.jpg (http://s1008.photobucket.com/user/lawren71/media/New%201989%20Accord/DSCN8413_zpsd91d5b29.jpg.html)

here's a video before the exhaust got finished up
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/lawren71/New%201989%20Accord/th_DSCN8393_zpsc4f55e4c.jpg (http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/lawren71/New%201989%20Accord/DSCN8393_zpsc4f55e4c.mp4)

88lxi-shortram
10-11-2013, 05:18 AM
mine did the same thing. everything tucked except that final bend by the rear tire. im glad im not the only one like that lol

gp02a0083
10-11-2013, 06:48 AM
yah i noticed the old muffler and even the stock replacement ones have that part of the pipe crushed a little bit to allow it to fit tight to the chassis. I'm not worried being my car isn't lowered and is actually raised up

MessyHonda
10-17-2013, 06:46 PM
nice work. i wish i could say i had a tool box but someone stole mine out of my car. i can see you have put alot of time into your hatch. it looks clean.

gp02a0083
10-20-2013, 06:07 PM
thanks, I always liked the 3rd gen hatches they just need a little bit of help. Now that im mostly done with getting everything updated, i can start getting some body work done for next spring.

86hatch
11-02-2013, 07:08 PM
Not trying to jack your thread but if you were willing to part with that gorgeous black hatch I have a proposition in a for sale thread for you.
Thanks

gp02a0083
11-05-2013, 05:47 AM
I would consider, but i need my reliable DD, my truck is a pig on gas and my olds is going through a rear end and heart transplant

gp02a0083
05-23-2014, 09:12 AM
Fewer sections the better I say! here is a nice shot of the flex pipe stainless flange and cat.
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/lawren71/New%201989%20Accord/DSCN8372_zps5bf1a287.jpg

Only one section of pipe was used to connect the down pipe to the flex pipe
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/lawren71/New%201989%20Accord/DSCN8373_zps3bf1bbd0.jpg

here is the underside, the 2.25" pipe really fits up there nice with my new cat and resonator, looks almost factory! The underside of the chassis isn't all that bad for being a daily driven care in in NJ. Shortly after we welded on the factory bracket so I can use the factory mounting points.
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/lawren71/New%201989%20Accord/DSCN8371_zps24e4f6f3.jpg

Not the best photo here, but this is when the flowmaster muffler was being mocked up and positioned so we could put a few tack welds and remove the whole exhaust to clean up the welds and check for any leaks. It fit a little tight being the case is more rectangular than oval like the stock one.
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/lawren71/New%201989%20Accord/DSCN8410_zpsae9d8a42.jpg

AccordB20A
05-24-2014, 07:27 PM
all the right mods have been done to this car. top work man

gp02a0083
06-09-2014, 09:54 AM
thanks! only good work here being done!

gp02a0083
07-20-2014, 02:19 AM
Well summer is here and so is the nasty summer heat. It gets really hot inside my hatch even with the light colored interior, so I looked in to seeing how the A/C system is working. A few years back I converted the A/C system to a Denso type and flushed all the lines and parts of the old mineral oil that was used with the older R-12 system with the keihin compressor. The conversion was successful, however as time goes by these old cars develop leaks and I had to "service" the A/C system again. I was very happy to find out that only the low pressure schrader valve was the issue and was not seating correctly due to my father's older quick chuck style connectors for the gauges. I got myself manual connectors so that I can contain the pressure at the port rather than just through the manifold gauges. I replaced both valves and evacuated the system pulling 30 inHG of vac for roughly an hour then charged with 28 Oz of R-134. Outside temps were nearly 90 degrees and my pressures were 45psi on the low side and 265psi on the high side, pretty good in my opinion. Tested the how well the system was working by placing a thermometer in the center vent with the fan on #3. I think i'll be nice and cool all summer!

6417

Dr_Snooz
07-20-2014, 05:16 PM
That's the perfect temp right there. Your high side pressure seems high to me though. You might be replacing your expansion valve soon.

Hazwan
07-21-2014, 05:44 AM
A/c ftw!

gp02a0083
07-21-2014, 08:23 AM
That's the perfect temp right there. Your high side pressure seems high to me though. You might be replacing your expansion valve soon.

I agree Snooz, it was a tad on the higher end, spec for 90F with a +50% RH on a day like that should be on the order of 250psi to 270psi on the high side for the 134A. The 45psi on the low side is the low end of the spec. Still I may end up replacing it next season even tho this car has been very well taken care of by me and the previous owner ( they only had dealership services), I think it will hold out for this summer. So far its been a few weeks and it's been behaving very well. In this case I like being rewarded with the fact I know things were done right and it works tip top! :rockon:

gp02a0083
12-15-2014, 10:30 AM
Well, last Sunday I purchased another hatchback to use in order to have my hatch fixed up. However this one is mainly going to be for parts and is a 88 DX with blue interior , carb'd. if anyone is looking for parts let me know

gp02a0083
12-20-2014, 10:38 PM
Well hatchback #4 arrived today from Delaware back to its original home state ( ill explain later) . Time to get #3 fixed up.
This ones a Carb'd 88 with 150K with a bad 4th band , its got some new tires and dizzy, mainly picked it up for the sheet metal and some other parts.
6686
6687

Neat fact I discovered after taking a better look at the original owners manual and from the added dealership badge on the hatch lid. The car came from a Honda dealership in Marlton NJ called Burnes honda. The previous owner of my black 89 hatchback mentioned about this dealership as well when i purchased my 89 a few years back. So after looking for my 89's original manual they both were sold from the same dealership to owners here in south NJ. I'm going to keep the hatch badge to go with the dealership's key chain tag.

VeroZ
12-22-2014, 04:08 PM
Love the build and the South Jersey pictures. I grew up in Tabernacle and my Aunt/Uncle are in Hightstown.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

gp02a0083
12-24-2014, 04:24 AM
Love the build and the South Jersey pictures. I grew up in Tabernacle and my Aunt/Uncle are in Hightstown.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Thanks! Keeping it simple/clean/ functional is the goal. Hightstown isnt that far from the howell/freehold area. Should really set up a nj meet seeing there are a few more nj members.

gp02a0083
12-24-2014, 12:37 PM
got to work today on ripping apart my donor hatch for good interior parts

6692

6693

6694

gp02a0083
01-05-2015, 10:20 PM
Reason for my black hatch needing repair, deer hit.

6713

6714

After fighting with the progressive insurance adjuster about the repair quote, (they were hellbent on totaling it) they deemed the value of the car to be about 4500 after taxes, not including the upgrades done to the car, and was issued a check for the repairs. Always question the estimates guys, I learned a lot in the body shops and seen some shady stuff happen more often than not. When all was done and unrelated repairs were removed they reduced the estimate, car was not totaled, avoided a salvage title. ill get to work on getting the radiator support repaired, bodywork done, and painted soon. hopefully in a few more weeks I can more forward with this DD project,lower the car on koni reds, and try making it to honda day at Englishtown NJ. I'll have a bunch of parts from the car listed in the for sale section later.

Dr_Snooz
01-06-2015, 09:46 PM
Cool stuff! Nice work giving Progressive hell. I hope you slapped Flo while you were at it.

gp02a0083
01-07-2015, 05:47 AM
Cool stuff! Nice work giving Progressive hell. I hope you slapped Flo while you were at it.

that bitch never showed up to reassure me that my claim would be handled properly lol. This is a minor setback but with the money from the insurance company I can now get the body and paint work done very soon instead of waiting until the spring. If all goes well and I planned this correctly the original body-shop that I was trained at will do the work and will let me spray the car with dupont BC/CC when its ready for the booth. It would end up costing me less than $500 when said and done with the whole car.

MessyHonda
01-07-2015, 11:16 PM
Insurance companies are a rip off. One day il own one. Only company that fights to keep its money. My customer has a 89 teg with 63k and a lil fender bender and they wanted to total her car. I told her to fight it. Hope you can fix your car. I've had some close calls when I would go riding in the hills. I'm just glad once I was able to avoid a deer because they can do a lot of damage. Seen an ford explorer hit a deer on the freeway and it didn't look nice at all.

gp02a0083
01-08-2015, 06:20 AM
Insurance companies are a rip off. One day il own one. Only company that fights to keep its money. My customer has a 89 teg with 63k and a lil fender bender and they wanted to total her car. I told her to fight it. Hope you can fix your car. I've had some close calls when I would go riding in the hills. I'm just glad once I was able to avoid a deer because they can do a lot of damage. Seen an ford explorer hit a deer on the freeway and it didn't look nice at all.

Its sad that they will outright try to total a car due to its age, not its overall condition. I bet that customers car is in decent condition other than the fender bender. Yah freeway hits with deer are usually pretty nasty, non freeway speed hits however typically look worse from all the repair jobs I have done in the shops. It all comes down to how fast, what car, where it hit and all that.. you really cant argue physics.

gp02a0083
02-07-2015, 05:41 AM
Lately I have been really busy ripping apart #4 for parts, however with the weather not cooperating i decided to fix my dash clock that finally stopped displaying the time a few weeks ago. It seems that the intermittent display is caused by the poor wave soldering that the manufacturer had done. The problem with this is some pins can have excessive solder while other pins have very little. I decided to check out the pins under a microscope and found many cracked cold solder joints so i decided to re-flow every single pin. FYI for those re-soldering the pins, because of the wave soldering technique as soon as you apply heat to the pin and the existing solder is molten it will bubble and pop that can leave a hole or crack in the re-flow.
6765

Finished re-flowing more solder, removed excess solder, and cleaned up all the flux residue
6766

Re-installed and works fine!
6767

Dr_Snooz
02-07-2015, 09:09 PM
Dang. It shines like new!

gp02a0083
12-07-2015, 09:13 AM
little teaser picts. Now she is 100% cancer/rust free. New arches installed, hatch dent fixed, ect.


7235

7236

7237

Oldblueaccord
12-08-2015, 04:10 AM
Looking great!

gp02a0083
12-19-2015, 06:56 AM
Ready for paint , sticking with the nh503-p code for now

7270

7271

7272

MessyHonda
12-28-2015, 09:29 PM
Seen some pics of facebook. Cant wait to see full size pics on here once its all done.

gp02a0083
05-11-2016, 09:41 AM
its been a while since my last update. Lots of shenanigans and BS with progressive and the shop. The end result was me not having to pay for anything... long story.

While i was waiting for the work to be finished i started reconditioning the moldings, Honda had a somewhat decent idea for the rubber parts on the moldings but they eventually flake and fail. Took a while to remove all the rubberized coating.

Side 1/4 hatch trim
7497
rear upper hatch trim
7498
weather beaten wiper arms
7499

7500

Finished work
7501

Had to reglue the outer molding parts
7503

7504

gp02a0083
05-11-2016, 10:47 AM
Next i started working on the Koni's and got all my suspension stuff ready

7505

7506

7507

I used vogland springs being they are the only other drop around 1"
The koni's were originally set to 1.5 turns from soft in front and 1 turn fron soft in the rear

"upgraded" the brakes as well, went with EBC brakes ordered from summit at the time. Be careful ordering, first set of fronts i had were for the smaller front disc setup. Rotor never fit over the hub at all, the correct set installed no problem. I was skeptical about my akebono pads i used in the front and the generics that came with the loaded rear calipers, swapped everything out for decent hawk pads.
7508


7509

gp02a0083
05-11-2016, 10:55 AM
Did some more research and found out our hatches have a unique molding clip that was only used on the accords from 86-89. Took some measurements and looked into this 3d prototyping stuff through 3dhubs.com and autodesk123d.

Thanks to one of our Vet members, Johnny O, for supplying a few clips with the mounting studs ( sadly they all break )

old busted clips:
7510

Rendering:
7511

First Test run of prints:
7512
really neat stuff and my printing guy was very helpful after several printing attempts failed. Glad i went with a cheap material to evaluate if this is ever worth it. Happy with the first run but still improvements need to be made but they fit the molding well but i need to adjust the rest of the clip to pull the molding closer to the body

7513

gp02a0083
05-11-2016, 11:07 AM
Now that the hatch was "done" I had some work to do cleaning up the hack job shops work in the rear fender wells, didnt like the idea of shredding my brand new tires

7514

7515

more suspension stuff to work on, need to rebuild the prelude arms and measure for the spacer needed.
7516

New shoes, Compe's 15x7 with 205/55/15 kuhmo extesa II's
7517
got these from tire rack, always check your stuff when you get it shipped, two of my wheels had bad scuffs and tirerack would not honor enkei's warrenty even if it is cosmetic. They tried to chuck it up to shipping , but kinda hard to damage the rim lip when the rim is 7" wide and the tire is 8.1" wide. Not to mention they like to stick 13 1/4oz weights and can't properly balance a tire correctly with the fancy hunter road force balancing crap. Their solution was to offer me 2 wheels at 50% off. To hell with that. I played hard ball and they quickly shipped me two replacements free of charge. Took the other two wheels to my uncles and pop the beads off them and remounted the tires, only had to use 3 1/4 oz weights. will never buy anything from that shitty company again with that kinda return policy.

moved onto other stuff and got other things installed:
7518

7519

both rear wheel houses are seamed sealed and lined with por-15 so never rusting again!

2oodoor
05-11-2016, 12:31 PM
Looking good

Tdurr
05-13-2016, 12:41 PM
yes!!!! im loving all this restoration going on. keep it up man!

gp02a0083
05-16-2016, 08:40 AM
After about a month's worth of work , got it back rolling again
7531

Brought it to my friend to have it aligned
7532

The rears are set to dead "0" for toe and camber, everything is good there. However, the prelude control arms cause a slight issue. I took the time to do a little homework on the control arm builds here, the overall spacing required is just about 0.355" - 0.360", allows the control arm to bolt right up using the accord pin and prelude mounts. According to the how-to the spacers should be toward the firewall, this may not be entirely correct but may as well be used as a starting point. My friend and I aligned the front both with the stock accord arms and with the prelude arms, curious how off the alignment would have been without camber correction. With the accord arms the castor was within spec, however the prelude arms do play a bit with the castor as you increase / decrease the camber. I took frame and wheel house measurements and all were in spec before my friend and I even thought about moving the tq rods. Seems like the prelude arms require a little bit of fine tuning to get the thrust angle and castor better. I'll have to mess with that when he gets back from vacation in a week.
7533

gp02a0083
05-16-2016, 09:23 AM
So after the alignment was ok to drive besides the castor issue, Next step was to resolve the now horrible / harsh bouncy ride, was soo bad i thought i was going to make a new sunroof!

Suspension setup:
Koni Reds
Fronts P/N: 80-2581L & 80-2581R
Rears P/N : 80-2582
Both upgraded with Energy suspension poly bushings
Springs: Vogland 1.2" drop sport springs P/N: 957015

Originally I had set the koni's rebound dampening to 1.5 turns from soft and the rears at 1-1.25 turns from full soft, Overall the ride was horrible and bouncy. Made the car feel very uncontrolled over bumps. I then removed the whole set and set the fronts to 2.25 turns from full soft and the rears I maxed out. The ride improved slightly as far as bouncing , but still was super harsh over very minor imperfections on the road surface.

This is when I was deciding on going with another spring set or go back to my bilstiens. So i decided to dig up some information and call some of these vendors. As far as im aware, Eibach is the only other company to offer a drop spring within the 1" to 1.5" range. With this I contacted Eibach ( 1-800-507-2338) regarding the sport kit (P/N: 4005.140), I spoke with Trevor regarding this spring set from them. He indicated that they are no longer producing these springs , most likely why the main source for them is ebay. He was able to provide the spring rates for the 4005.140 kit. Note these springs are progressive, not linear like the oem ones so height and coil size will appear different. Fronts are 308 lb/in to 742 lb/in and the rears are 97lb/in to 200lb/in. I did read up that some of the members running the eibach kit complain about the rear handling of the car, at 97lb/in it does not surprise me, that appears to be too soft compared to the oem 117 lb/in springs. Hell OEM style cargo coils can be used at 145 lb/in and 175 lb/in.

With this new information , I called Vogtland about the spring rates for the 957015 kit being i was only able to obtain a tech sheet written in German ( tried translator apps but didnt work). I contacted Layla ( 9951-694-6981 ext 101 ) at Vogtland, she was unable to give me any info at the time and needed to contact the German division of the company the following working day. When I received a call back from Layla she indicated / given me spring rates that appeared linear with the fronts at 350 lb/in and the rears at 320 lb/in. Even she said those values seemed a bit high and requested that the german division re dyno the springs for the exact values. Still waiting on the actual test results. in the meantime Layla suggested a contact at koni to help with this ride quality issue.

Next Step was getting a hold of someone at Koni, that was a bit rough trying to get a human to speak to over the phone lol. I ended up speaking with Lee Grimes, he is a fellow tech associate that works with Gordon that has helps other members in the past. Lee is very knowledgeable ( been tracking a CRX for nearly 20 years) and is very familiar with the prelude type suspension we have on our accords. He took the time to educate me a bit on the possible issues that I could be having with the dampeners. First and foremost he mentioned that it is very very easy to over-dampen or under dampen with the system so its important to understand how that is translated through the car to the driver. He explained these conditions using a sine wave as a model in relation to the spring force and dampening force. ideally an oscillation or full cycle ( compression and rebound) would be somewhat symmetrical for both situations, resulting in smoother transitions at the extremes. Basically if your savvy with data handling depending on the condition, the sine wave would become more of a square wave. Lee had also mentioned the importance of the bump stop and how it is supposedly used by engineers. Older suspension styles like ours mainly use the bump stop to help prevent bottoming out and damaging further components, late model stuff the bump stop is incorporated into the overall travel / strength of the spring. Sounds legit, but my concern is on the older stuff.

With my education lesson done, I re adjusted the koni's to 3/4's of a turn from full soft for both the front and rear. Bump stops were trimmed to a height of about 1" / 1.25". Now the car has a good balance between comfort and performance. I need to speak with Lee again to discuss my results so he has application notes and i wasted to discuss with him if it was possible to provide a coil over system being most guys use the civic fronts and legend rears. Don't think it will go anywhere being they get less than 1 call a year regarding our trusty CA chassis, but its worth putting the word out there for good aftermarket upgrades.

Oldblueaccord
05-16-2016, 01:20 PM
After about a month's worth of work , got it back rolling again
7531

Brought it to my friend to have it aligned
7532

The rears are set to dead "0" for toe and camber, everything is good there. However, the prelude control arms cause a slight issue. I took the time to do a little homework on the control arm builds here, the overall spacing required is just about 0.355" - 0.360", allows the control arm to bolt right up using the accord pin and prelude mounts. According to the how-to the spacers should be toward the firewall, this may not be entirely correct but may as well be used as a starting point. My friend and I aligned the front both with the stock accord arms and with the prelude arms, curious how off the alignment would have been without camber correction. With the accord arms the castor was within spec, however the prelude arms do play a bit with the castor as you increase / decrease the camber. I took frame and wheel house measurements and all were in spec before my friend and I even thought about moving the tq rods. Seems like the prelude arms require a little bit of fine tuning to get the thrust angle and castor better. I'll have to mess with that when he gets back from vacation in a week.
7533


See thats what I suspected with the prelude arm but never could find anyone to dig into that very deep. Good work on the arms.

gp02a0083
05-17-2016, 04:43 AM
See thats what I suspected with the prelude arm but never could find anyone to dig into that very deep. Good work on the arms.

Thanks Blue. Just want to make sure things are correct.

yes there is little information on the subject and the how-too should be updated. As said before , putting the spacers on the back side toward the firewall is most likely a good starting point. I guess its also how comfortable you are with adjusting the bottom tq rods to the extremes to correct this. I've checked everything from wheel house to frame measurements and everything is good there. I guess as a general statement that you should fine tune the shims so that you need minimal amount of adjustment on the bottom to get it in spec at the range of camber you want to set it at. However , i do see many people grind/drill out the holes for the ball joint because they don't have enough correction. I'm in the middle of the adjustment range for the camber and im near -2* , my friend didn't want to make the camber any more positive or else it would have rolled the castor back further. However , i think i have enough adjustment because i'm not lowered that much.

I also noticed that many use multiple little washers for the arm spacing, i ordered 3 different thickness Stainless steel washer packs. I wanted as few washers as possible

Oldblueaccord
05-17-2016, 10:58 PM
Thanks Blue. Just want to make sure things are correct.

yes there is little information on the subject and the how-too should be updated. As said before , putting the spacers on the back side toward the firewall is most likely a good starting point. I guess its also how comfortable you are with adjusting the bottom tq rods to the extremes to correct this. I've checked everything from wheel house to frame measurements and everything is good there. I guess as a general statement that you should fine tune the shims so that you need minimal amount of adjustment on the bottom to get it in spec at the range of camber you want to set it at. However , i do see many people grind/drill out the holes for the ball joint because they don't have enough correction. I'm in the middle of the adjustment range for the camber and im near -2* , my friend didn't want to make the camber any more positive or else it would have rolled the castor back further. However , i think i have enough adjustment because i'm not lowered that much.

I also noticed that many use multiple little washers for the arm spacing, i ordered 3 different thickness Stainless steel washer packs. I wanted as few washers as possible

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/923/35mcFN.jpg


I use these Teflon jobbies. I got them made local with the 10mm hole but i think Mcmaster carr has them as well