Lizardskin Equivalent for $10?(Ceramic Coating)

[firefighterwhite89]

I found this and i was wondering if anyone here had tried it? I found it at autozone for $9 a can. Says it's good up to 2000*F and was made JUST FOR EXHAUST SYSTEMS. Any info? Opinions?

http://i875.photobucket.com/albums/ab320/firefighterwhite89/Mar24_005.jpg

Ah, and i went on a crazy trip to the Old Bryce Insane Asylum that's closed down in Tuscaloosa, AL and found these ever so nifty tags for teh crazies. I figured i'd use them to label wires i add, and such. There's 7 colors. And I got well over 2000+ of them. Enough to fill up a book bag.

http://i875.photobucket.com/albums/ab320/firefighterwhite89/Mar29_097.jpg

[stat1K]

VHT makes good stuff. i have used the engine enamel and the exhaust paint. i painted my tailpipe with the exhaust paint and an extension pipe i made. neither have flaked or burned off like some of the other barbecue paints.

but, i have also painted a header with rustoleum barbecue paint that i paid 4dollars a can for and it hasn't flaked either.

[firefighterwhite89]

VHT makes good stuff. i have used the engine enamel and the exhaust paint. i painted my tailpipe with the exhaust paint and an extension pipe i made. neither have flaked or burned off like some of the other barbecue paints.

but, i have also painted a header with rustoleum barbecue paint that i paid 4dollars a can for and it hasn't flaked either.

WOW. Not Bad. Thanks For The Feedback. Now, I'm Wondering If They Make A Pink Header Paint. ROFLMAO:cheers:

[turabaka]

I used the silver vht header paint and it bubbled almost instantly. They make good paint, so I probably just did something wrong with the prep work or I got unlucky with a bad can of paint.

[stat1K]

WOW. Not Bad. Thanks For The Feedback. Now, I'm Wondering If They Make A Pink Header Paint. ROFLMAO:cheers:

they make a hot pink high heat engine enamel. i know that valve covers stand up with it not sure about exhaust.

[lostforawhile]

pretty much all the paints will flake off or bubble eventually, there is no real substitute for the ceramic coating

[Xaisk]

I try'ed that paint out. 3 coats of it and plenty of time to dry in between. It peeled off in less than a month. I have before and after pictures if your interested. I definatly wouldn't recommend it.

[lostforawhile]

I try'ed that paint out. 3 coats of it and plenty of time to dry in between. It peeled off in less than a month. I have before and after pictures if your interested. I definatly wouldn't recommend it.

I think it would be fine past the down pipe if you don't have a converter, but no further up. also if there is any sort of grease or oil on the pipes, it will get hot and cause the bubbling from underneath

[Vanilla Sky]

Not to be morally smug or anything, but don't steal from abandonments. It's morally wrong on many levels that I won't get into here.

On the topic of the paint, it's still not ceramic coating. It won't do much, if anything, to help with heat control. That's the real reason for ceramic coating, not appearance.

[dieselgus]

Will give you top dollar for a straight jacket.

Used.

The more bitemarks and stains the better.














Seriously.

My tattoo artist would love you longtime, GI.

And there is no substitute for ceramic coating or Nomex wrap

[Vanilla Sky]

Search for items from Danvers State Hospital. A lot of items were looted from that abandonment prior (and during) asbestos abatement.

/knows too much

Do try to keep this a bit more on topic, though. I know I brought it off topic, but it was only to point out that we don't tolerate thieves here.

[dieselgus]

lol.....sorry 'bout that (not into thievery either, would totally mess with my police clearances and such. But it is kind of an interesting item to track down)

But yes, ceramic is the way to go as far as pretty. Any of the paints we have tried on exhaust parts have been pretty much NFG (not a fan of much of the VHT stuff to begin with. We got a sampler pallet of paint to try and change us from SEM over to VHT, and well, we stuck with SEM). Ceramic coating is quick and easy (coating place up the street does headers for us same day, and for less than $100 if I remember correctly), but the real deal is Nomex header wrap. Lowers bay temp, keeps the heat in the exhaust stream where it belongs. And besides, it looks all gnarly and race-like. Even better.

[lostforawhile]

lol.....sorry 'bout that (not into thievery either, would totally mess with my police clearances and such. But it is kind of an interesting item to track down)

But yes, ceramic is the way to go as far as pretty. Any of the paints we have tried on exhaust parts have been pretty much NFG (not a fan of much of the VHT stuff to begin with. We got a sampler pallet of paint to try and change us from SEM over to VHT, and well, we stuck with SEM). Ceramic coating is quick and easy (coating place up the street does headers for us same day, and for less than $100 if I remember correctly), but the real deal is Nomex header wrap. Lowers bay temp, keeps the heat in the exhaust stream where it belongs. And besides, it looks all gnarly and race-like. Even better.

you don't want wrap, it holds mositure and causes your headers to rot out faster, there's a reason all the header manufacturers void the warranty if they are wrapped

[stat1K]

the paint will eventually fail that's true. but if the item is thouroughly cleaned and degreased it will last much longer. also following the procedure of baking the paint between coats either with a heat gun or an actual oven will help it stand up much longer.

there is no REPLACEMENT for ceramic coating, but for a job that's going to cost at least 50 dollars i'd rather drop 4 dollars of paint onto my 50 dollar header.

if i had paid a pretty penny for something like you guys have to for a header (before the obx came out) then i might consider dropping the cash to ceramic or jet hot coat it. but on the cheap these paints do well. you can also strip them later and reapply so no big deal, especially if you have access to a shop with a parts cleaner.

[dieselgus]

If you never drive it, yes. Bigger problem on often washed trailer queens. Or for those that constantly wash engine bays and never take it out for a good drive after to dry things out afterwards.

We haven't seen any issues so far (use header wrap a lot to keep heat off of starters and 480LE transmission PRNDL/Neut safety assemblies on tight quarters engine swaps at work) with headers rotting out. But to each their own. It does work quite well though.

[87roach]

you don't want wrap, it holds mositure and causes your headers to rot out faster

These aren't made of wood.

[cubert]

Ive had bikes with wrapped headers, and have friends with wrapped exhausts and have never had issues...

[stat1K]

it all, again, will depend on if it's done properly. as soon as it starts to sag or come loose you should redo it as that's when it can just be a moisture lock instead of a deterrant.

[cubert]

it all, again, will depend on if it's done properly. as soon as it starts to sag or come loose you should redo it as that's when it can just be a moisture lock instead of a deterrant.

Im not arguing this at all...my comment was aimed more towards people who think that wrap is gonna instantly turn their header to dust.

[stat1K]

oh i know cubey, i was just agreeing with you buddy.

[gp02a0083]

prep, prep , prep


that is the #1 issue with most coatings failing in general.

i don't know what you guys are doing, i've sprayed my dirt bikes with paint like this. I have never had a problem, the only places it would peel off is the sides of the motor case where your feet would rub.

THE BEST thing to do with a header is to have it hot tank'd followed up by a light media blast. This will remove any grease / carbon / oils that would come in contact with the header in addition to providing a good surface to bite on. i would also spray the paint in it while the header is warm, this will help with the adhesion and also bake it in an oven for a 1/2 hour @ 350 to reduce the possibility of water moisture while applying the paint. Note: be very careful with this as most paints use volatile organic solvents, wait 15 min to a 1/2 hour to allow the paint to flash, then bake it. This should minimize the paint odor and solvents so that you don't end up with a fire

This is a lot of work involved just to paint it IMO

I agree with Lost that with the design and issues that our engines have with leaky valve covers and such that the paint will fail, this is very true.

Still and i agree with the others , ceramic and other forms of paint deposition work great, but expensive. Im just giving a suggestion on a cheaper way to do it

[lostforawhile]

i guess it depends on the header and how hard it would be to replace, in my case I may never find another S&S, so I need to protect it.

[Tdurr]

Lol I just painted my manifold with the engine stuff (it's supposed to be good up to 1800f I think) and I don't see any probs so far but it's only been a week. After sandblasting and dousing it in brake cleaner I painted it via can instructions and did the on car baking process and it works great. I've sprayed brake cleaner to test it and it's good. I'd say go for it man.

[MessyHonda]

i used that on my heat sheild. held up really good even have my rear oil main leak...cleans up fast

[stat1K]

i guess it depends on the header and how hard it would be to replace, in my case I may never find another S&S, so I need to protect it.

but the obx is widely available

[lostforawhile]

but the obx is widely available

but the quality was junk, i saw the pictures of it, it really sucks S&S went out of buisness, this looks to be a really high quality header, definitly worth the money to have coated, They had one of the best reputations in the industry, just not enough buisness in this lousy economy to keep the doors open, thats taken out a lot of the good aftermarket companies,

[MessyHonda]

but the obx is widely available

truth....i owned one...quality was alright but it still needs a flex pipe instead of the ball and joint.


but the quality was junk, i saw the pictures of it, it really sucks S&S went out of buisness, this looks to be a really high quality header, definitly worth the money to have coated, They had one of the best reputations in the industry, just not enough buisness in this lousy economy to keep the doors open, thats taken out a lot of the good aftermarket companies,

lost...mine was pretty good quality unlike daves....you can pm hondalude86 because i sold them to him when he bought the coupe...i was going to installed them but my exhaust guy never got around to it...but the quality of welds look better than the pacesetter i had.

[firefighterwhite89]

What if i did some research and found an SS header made for like an F-series or B-series, That's about as big as our exhaust ports...and cut off the flange and TIG an A-series SS flange on it? Or would it be best to get a shitty OBX and grind/filler weld it better to fit the A-Series...?:violin:

[Vanilla Sky]

It's going to take a bit more work than just a flange change. The A series motor has different port spacing than most other Honda motors.

[lostforawhile]

What if i did some research and found an SS header made for like an F-series or B-series, That's about as big as our exhaust ports...and cut off the flange and TIG an A-series SS flange on it? Or would it be best to get a shitty OBX and grind/filler weld it better to fit the A-Series...?:violin: there is someone on here that makes the A20 flanges, if the tubes were cut off flush and moved, it's possible it might work to change the flange, you'll have to find a used one though, as S&S went out of business

[turabaka]

there is someone on here that makes the A20 flanges, if the tubes were cut off flush and moved, it's possible it might work to change the flange, you'll have to find a used one though, as S&S went out of business

I'm guessing he meant stainless steel, not S&S, and just failed with his use of 'a''an'.

[lostforawhile]

I'm guessing he meant stainless steel, not S&S, and just failed with his use of 'a''an'.
ah, they were discussed earlier in the thread so i figured that's what he meant

[MessyHonda]

What if i did some research and found an SS header made for like an F-series or B-series, That's about as big as our exhaust ports...and cut off the flange and TIG an A-series SS flange on it? Or would it be best to get a shitty OBX and grind/filler weld it better to fit the A-Series...?:violin:

you dont trust the OBX?

[firefighterwhite89]

you dont trust the OBX?

That'd be a huge negative. Wasn't that the header here on a thread somewhere that had poor craftmanship? To where the flange/piping was horribly welded, like a 4 year old did it? I'm thinking it was an OBX someone was pointing this out on in a pic. I think Lostforawhile knows the thread. I think he commented a good bit on it. But, maybe i'm thinking of a wrong header company...But it wasn't S&S(Notice there is an & sign, Unlike the universal SS(Stainless Steel) abreviation) and it wasn't Paceshitter either. And yes i know the flanges/spacing is different. All metal flexes to a point. then weld.

[Tdurr]

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c220/TheDarkDarkRacer/trackdays/IMG_9904.png

the paint i used.
and id trust the OBX, they usually make good parts for cheap.

[lostforawhile]

That'd be a huge negative. Wasn't that the header here on a thread somewhere that had poor craftmanship? To where the flange/piping was horribly welded, like a 4 year old did it? I'm thinking it was an OBX someone was pointing this out on in a pic. I think Lostforawhile knows the thread. I think he commented a good bit on it. But, maybe i'm thinking of a wrong header company...But it wasn't S&S(Notice there is an & sign, Unlike the universal SS(Stainless Steel) abreviation) and it wasn't Paceshitter either. And yes i know the flanges/spacing is different. All metal flexes to a point. then weld.
It was an obx, I know who bought it, but for some reason the brain is not working, thats the one with the awful welds and where the one port was hogged out way over size

[lostforawhile]

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c220/TheDarkDarkRacer/trackdays/IMG_9904.png

the paint i used.
and id trust the OBX, they usually make good parts for cheap.

that's what I used on my stock manifold and after about six months it flaked, It was beadblasted first, then baked on, and still started coming off

[firefighterwhite89]

It was an obx, I know who bought it, but for some reason the brain is not working, thats the one with the awful welds and where the one port was hogged out way over size

BAM! See? Who the heck wants something of such horrid craftsmanship? Not I said the man who paid attention.

I can do better than them on my own with a TIG welder, and it'd look so much cleaner. Pacesetter and OBX are FTL...And they're our only option pretty much...or did i miss something?

[Tdurr]

that's what I used on my stock manifold and after about six months it flaked, It was beadblasted first, then baked on, and still started coming off

weird. well ill see how long it last on my car lol. prob not long then

[lostforawhile]

BAM! See? Who the heck wants something of such horrid craftsmanship? Not I said the man who paid attention.

I can do better than them on my own with a TIG welder, and it'd look so much cleaner. Pacesetter and OBX are FTL...And they're our only option pretty much...or did i miss something?

as far as I know there are still people who can laser cut the flange for our cars, the guys running turbo use those flanges to make their own manifolds, you may have to search, you could measure the tube centers on a different header, to see if they are close enough to make fit, cut them off flush, do a little light prying, and weld to the new flange. once most 4-1 header tubes are cut off, they will move around quite a bit, once you get them tacked securely in place, then can be finish welded, oh it was itzdave who bought the first OBX on here.

[firefighterwhite89]

Ok. I will look into it.



Let me know how long your paint lasts tdurr.
:koolaid:

[MessyHonda]

i bought the 2nd set of OBX....and mine came in perfect...i wish i would of taken pics the ports were nice and the welds were good. so sad that my exhaust didnt have time to fix it