Car shudders on deceleration - Why?

[Australian 86]

As you guessed i am having problems with my 3rd gen Accord (carby) when it is in gear clutch engaged and i want to pull up the car with the gears. As soon as i move it from accelerating to any less acceleration the car hates it and shudders for a few seconds, i have no other problems with the car, and i have recently installed new shocks and about all the steering rubber there is, plus the top rear engine mount to try and fix this problem... to no avail...
Am i right in saying the top engine mount is meant to allow the engine to move a little? because when accelerating whilst stationary in neutral the torque does move it a little, but it seems natural and doesn't effect the car on accelerating...
Any ideas? could it be the Carby or lower engine mounts?
Thanks!

[Hauntd ca3]

by top engine mount, i guess you mean the one that looks like a dog bone, attached to the firewall and a big bracket on the g/box end of the motor.
thats a torque reaction bar, and is there to stop the motor rocking backwards to far under acceleration and takes the stress off the engine mounts.
that will have no effect on any shudder yo have on decell .
is it shuddering as you let the clutch out on decell ?
does it shudder on decell once you have your foot right off the clutch?
what sort of revs is the motor doing when its shuddering?

[Australian 86]

Hey thanks for the reply, it seems to be fine whilst accelerating when letting the clutch out. The most noticeable point of shudder is when you have your foot off the clutch (in gear obviously) and you are accelerating (not too much, about 2k RpM) then you let off the accelerator and (attempting to slow the car from the gears. Thats when the most shuddering appears. It is also a little present when the clutch is fully engaged and you accelerate again, but not as much as when you take your foot off the gas. (i suppose thats because we generaly take our foot off the accelerator faster than put it on (depending on how we drive :D)).

[Hauntd ca3]

i had a shudder similar to what you describe.
with mine, it was the bearing in the intermediate drive shaft support bracket that bolts to the back of the block.
half way between the diff and the passenger side front wheel, the drive shaft effectively is split in two with a cv joint, the cv is supported and runs in a bearing. if the bearing gets worn, the shaft gets a bit of a whirl going and you get a shudder

[Australian 86]

Hey thanks for that, once i have my roadworthy done, ill get it checked out so i don't do some serious damage :D

[Australian 86]

Ok, as time as passed on and i have gotten wizer and the problem has gotten worse, i have now ascertained that the issue belongs somewhere between
the gear box and the tires... Whats happening is that when the car is under acceleration the wheels pull forwards. As soon as this acceleration stops (foot
off accelerator) it slams back the other direction. The opposite also happens when the clutch is already engaged, and i want to accelerate again. (Oh and
at speed humps i can feel the wheels push back under the car and then brusquely be thrown forwards).

Now i think this could be a few problems (Drive shafts, drive bearings etc.) but im really not sure, and i don't have the expertise to know when a part is worn
without fully dismantling it... can anyone help?

Oh just as a note, i replaced the front radius rod bushing to see if it resolved the problem... no luck, plus the CV's don't make a clicking noise at all.)

[POS carb]

if the wheels are shifting back and forth it's the radius rods or the control arm bushings

[2oodoor]

I hope you had the caster checked after replacing those radius bushings? Otherwise the original problem soundEd like a effect of thrusting of lateral parts like loose axle nuts, flywheel bolts, cv shaft notlocked in, input shaft bearing in tranny, transaxle issues etc.

[Australian 86]

Ok, pulled the car apart a bit.... wow... shit be hitting the fan...

So i felt the radius rod nuts, they were completely loose :/ and i check the condition of the bushings themselves, and
even though they are the good hard Moog ones, they look like they've be on the car for much longer than a few months...
I also realise that the outer lower arm bushing is also rooted from all the lateral movement... and it was put in brand new
when i replaced the radius rod bushings.

The only reason i can see why this may have occurred is because i did take it in for a steering alignment, and they could
have possibly not tightened up the nuts enough...

Blah its all very confusing what to do here. I'm not even sure if i have the bushing the right way around now one says fr
and the other rr.

[POS carb]

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/catimgs/13se001_b29.png

Note the orientation of the bushings
#8 fr is the outer bushing on the front of the vehicle, #7 rr is on the inner
left and right are interchangeable

[Australian 86]

Excellent. This will help considerably. I have workshop manuals, but they were all very vague. I think for the mean time I'll leave in the slightly damaged bushing 12 because it is still pretty new, but was just thrown from side to side too much, but will probably do its proper job well for th next couple of years.
I just can't figure out how those bloody nuts came loose in the first place! I'll go and replace the front lock nuts and take it for a steering alignment and see how she runs. I just hope it's not some other part on the car that is causing this extra stress on the radius rod bushings, because I cant hear any bearing noises, and that's the only other thing I can think of...

[Australian 86]

Huh, thats strange. I can see that picture on my phone, but not on my PC... must be the whole rolling IP thingo on phones and how that website
doesn't like hosting photos for people from over seas :/

[Taylor Smith]

by carby you mean carburated? i know that some of the carbs have a thing on them that allows some fuel into to engine while your coasting in gear its meant to make the engine run smoother that could be malfunctioning... i had a problem one time where at 3000 rpm my car would start bucking so violently that it wasn't drivable i figured out that the engine was being starved of fuel if you get your suspension sorted out start looking at fuel delivery

[Australian 86]

Ok, I've tightened up the strut rods, and i tell you what, it feels a million dollars better!
It still hasn't got rid of 100% of the lurching, but i have to be up around the 3,500 rpm range
and then quickly let my foot off the accelerator before i feel it now. (is this vaguely normal?)

I'll take it to get the steering alignment done tomorrow and see what happens.