Clutch advice

[lostscotiaguy]

Please forgive me if there's already a post on this guys, but I have 4 questions:
1: Clutch replacement: I already know the whole process (Plus I have the FSM) so I don't really need advice on that, but I'm just wondering if I'm gonna have to completely remove my axles from the knuckle AND the trans, or whether I can disconnect my tie rod ends and the shock mount and/or lower ball joint (Hopefully giving me enough room to work some magic with the knuckle) and just pull out my axles from the trans. I've just had a bad time with that crown nut on the axle and I'm hoping I can get away with not COMPLETELY removing my axles. Ahhh, the joy of having no airtools.

2: Getting a new (or reconditioned) flywheel I've checked my local Used honda parts place....no luck, I've searched elsewhere to no avail. I know I can find at least 2 of them on E-bay, resurfaced & at a decent price. I know I could simply take mine out and resurface it but I'm not so sure about the condition of mine (I think it's missing some teeth and it's prob. pretty worn). My only other option is to go through the nightmare of trying to get one at Pick N Pull (and then get it resurfaced) for a big saving of 20-$30. So, anyone have any good leads on a good place to get a good flywheel around 60-$75? or should I just get the Ebay one? I'm just curious about any other options I may have.

3. Anything I should know/look for before getting one? I know there's a minimum machine thickness and # of teeth, but other than that I'm unaware of any specifications I might need to look out for.

4. Any suggestions about any part of the process are welcome. I technically know the process, so I don't specifically need instruction on how it's done per se, but if anyone wants to pipe in with tips/pointers/the voice of experience will be greatly appreciated.

[A18A]

you should be able to just take out the axle whilst leaving it attached to the hub. that's what i do on every fwd car, cause I too have a problem with axle nuts

[1GCustomAccord]

Yes, like A18A says, some parts are difficult to remove without the proper tools, one time i removed the complete strut with the axle attached.
Then the trans is right there and ready to remove.
I recommend you to take the new clutch disk and pressure plate, as well as the flywheel to the resurface shop, so they can measure the whole thing and do a perfect job.
Also, when reinstalling, make sure to align the disk properly. If not, the trans is a real pain in the a** to fit.

[lostscotiaguy]

I recommend you to take the new clutch disk and pressure plate, as well as the flywheel to the resurface shop, so they can measure the whole thing and do a perfect job.

Well, I've got a new clutch and pressure plate & throwout bearing (All the contents of a new clutch kit) and the only thing "used" will be the flywheel. So, if I take it to a machine shop, what exactly would they do? All I can think of is checking the thickness and checking for out of round, although I have heard about peope getting their flywheel balanced. So, what would be the "standard procedure"? Oh, and just to double check...there's no pilot bearing on these 1st gen Accord clutches right?


I realize I'm probably making the task harder than it seems, it's just i've never done a clutch job before, and I just want to know I'm well prepared. I need to do it at a friend's house so I want to know I'm showing up with all the knowledge/tools/parts I need for the job.

Thanks for answering all my questions guys!! I really do appreciate it!
Now it's time to hit Ebay and buy some goodies!

[1GCustomAccord]

Basically they check that everything fits well, check the height of the machined area where the friction material works (some flywheels have a higher area where the pressure plate seats,not the case of the Accord clutch tough), and they make sure everything is balanced and centered, etc. to make sure its on factory specs. I even bring the pressure plate bolts so they can assemble everything if needed, and check whatever they want ( thats here, maybe the procedure varies in other countries).
No pilot bearing is used on this model.

[lostscotiaguy]

Awesome. I WAS thinking I should buy new bolts, I will before I bring everything to a shop. I ordered a flywheel off Ebay last night so I'm waiting nervously for it to hurry up and get here.

Thanks again for all the advice, I really do appreciate it!

[1GCustomAccord]

Post pics of the process! :flash:

[lostscotiaguy]

That's a good idea! I have a friend who said I can do it at his garage (shop) so I should have access to airtools and all "the goodies" to make it easier. I'll see if I can find a decent camera for it. I'm actually looking forward to it now...instead of dreading it! LOL Now if my new flywheel would just hurry up and get here.....

[2ndGenGuy]

When I pull the transmission on my 81, I just undo the lower ball joints from the spindle and that gives you enough room to pull the axle out of the hub. All you gotta do is take off that castle nut and then push down on the control arm. I managed to find a flywheel at CarQuest. The only parts place I found that had them at all really. Also, if you're pulling the transmission out, it makes it way easier if you drop the center crossmember, and remove the right-hand side radius rod for extra clearance.

[lostscotiaguy]

Thank you 2nd Gen guy! That's exactly the kind of info I'm looking for! Thankfully I got my flywheel yesterday so I'm one step closer. Did you guys replace the flywheel bolts and/or the bolts that hold the pressure plate against the flywheel? Once again I know I'm being fussy/ putting too much thought into it but I figure "Well, as long as I'm in there, and I've got it all apart..."

[1GCustomAccord]

Thank you 2nd Gen guy! That's exactly the kind of info I'm looking for! Thankfully I got my flywheel yesterday so I'm one step closer. Did you guys replace the flywheel bolts and/or the bolts that hold the pressure plate against the flywheel? Once again I know I'm being fussy/ putting too much thought into it but I figure "Well, as long as I'm in there, and I've got it all apart..."

Theres no need of replacing the bolts if they are in good shape, but something i ALWAYS do is to replace the rear crank oil seal every time i remove the gearbox, just in case!

[lostscotiaguy]

LMAO I'm looking at them online right now.... I was also thinking of replacing the axle seals.... When I DO replace it, it pretty much just pushes right in right? I assume I don't need any special tools to press it in or anything....

[1GCustomAccord]

LMAO I'm looking at them online right now.... I was also thinking of replacing the axle seals.... When I DO replace it, it pretty much just pushes right in right? I assume I don't need any special tools to press it in or anything....

Well, theres special tools to install them without damage, but i dont use any of these. A seal is compossed of a steel frame covered in rubber, i normally install the seals with a home made tool, a steel cylinder (or an old brake caliper piston can also do the job if the diameter is close enough-NOT THE CASE OF THE AXLE SEALS THAT ARE HUGE!-) with a diameter slightly smaller than the seal so it seats close to its outer edges (if you push in the inner edges, you will damage it), and then tapping the steel tube with a hammer. OR you can tap directly in the borders of the seal, tapping alternatively so it goes straight, but if you dont have experience, you can end up damaging it.

Remember that the seal normally seats even with the surface of the machined area in the gearbox/engine, try not to push it too deep. In any case, see how the original one fits before removing it, so you can install the new one properly.

Is not a bad idea to use a very thin layer of RTV silicone in the outer border of the seal to avoid any leaks and to make installation easier.

[lostscotiaguy]

Cool, thanks!

[lostscotiaguy]

Yet again...another question....What do you guys suggest for oil? The fsm calls for plain old 10w30 or 40. I'm gonna go with the 10w40 cause I'm in Cali...but anyone have any ideas for something "better"?
Or any recommendations for a particular brand (I'm a lifelong Castrol guy)
or synthetic vs. normal? (I'm more inclined to go for normal).
Feel free to throw in your 2 cents worth guys!

[lostscotiaguy]

Oh, and this is oil for my Transmission.....

[1GCustomAccord]

The owners manual reads:

Use ONLY SAE 10 W-30 or 10 W-40 SE grade oil.

2.4 litres of oil required.

Maybe you can use sintethic to improve something, but i dont know if thats really necessary.

[2ndGenGuy]

For the transmission, you're best off running Honda MTF. I spoke with a tech at the dealership, and they said it's compatible with all Honda Manual Transmissions even that far back. It's kinda spendy, but it definitely smooths out shifting, especially VS standard 10w30. I love that shit! :D

[lostscotiaguy]

Well, job done, sadly no pics. I ended up using some plain old Pennzoil 10w30 but I plan on doing a change again soon anyway, as the pennzoil seems to have some detergents in it so I figure i'd let that work on the 150,000 miles worth of gunk in there, then drain it and replace with something a little more long term. I just have an uneasy feeling about how well normal oil supposedly works after years of heat, and no filtration. So, next time around I think I'll go with the factory MTF! It was a rush job (still took WAY too long) and despite mostly following the manual, we winged it for a lot of it, since the manual seemd to not only have some steps in the wrong oreder, but also seemed to miss some steps altogether. Plus, a lot of the "intructional diagrams" left me saying "WTF are they trying to show me here?!". I started yesterday @ 1:00 and finished this morning around 2:30 with a few 5 minute B.S. sessions in between. I wish I still smoked!!!! I drove home around 4:00 this morning covered in grease and feeling like I'd been hit by a truck...repeatedly. The clutch feels great, although I think I need to fiddle with it a little. My takeup point is right at the floor and it was kinda fussy about going into first gear. I don't think we bent the linkage though.
All in all it was an educational experience, and while I'm sure I'll be much quicker if I have to do it again, I really have no desire to! Next up: New axles on both sides, steering rack install, more carb fiddling, interrior redo, spot treat some rust patches, ne wheel bearing, partridge in a pear tree, cure for cancer, humane genome project.......

[1GCustomAccord]

Lol.. A lotta work indeed, i hate when the clutch goes bad. You have to correctly set the free play in the clutch pedal in order to improve shifting and to avoid early disc failure.

[lostscotiaguy]

So I should do that "at the pedal"? I was going to adjust (lengthen) the rod from the slave cylinder that pushes on the clutch fork....

[2ndGenGuy]

What you might also need to do is some more bleeding on the clutch. Mine has been engaging at the floor recently too. But if I pump up the pedal's free play area, I can feel the clutch beginning to engage higher at the top. Once you're sure it's properly bled, then you can go on to adjusting the nut on the slave cylinder... No adjustment on the pedal itself...

[1GCustomAccord]

What you might also need to do is some more bleeding on the clutch. Once you're sure it's properly bled, then you can go on to adjusting the nut on the slave cylinder... No adjustment on the pedal itself...

The pedal has a nut but is set at factory, so the pedal free play is correct, no need to touch it now. The pedal has a spring load to go up, there is another spring in the slave cylinder at the gearbox, so you first have to bleed all the air from the lines, using the bleeder valve, then adjust the free play between the piston and the clutch fork, wich is 2 - 2,6 milimeters.

Proceed as follows:

1- Bleed the system.

2- Make sure the piston in the slave is all the way in the cylinder.

3- Check the free play between the piston tip and the fork. 2 - 2,6 mm.

4- Adjust if necessary.

5- Drink a beer while watching your well done job.

6- You are done.

Note: Apply some grease in the tip of the piston, where it touches the fork.