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rjudgey
05-24-2011, 05:06 AM
Right everyone, as you may or may not know I have quite a lot of these EDM B20A's and finally going to be building one!! Yay!!
Now I'm entering a budget race challenge I get £999 plus £250 for old parts I can sell.
Now the car was free and was in all working order, got some springs, and shocks hopefully coming together, and new brakes and pads already sorted.
What I need is some more info on what engine parts i can possibly use to increase HP on this engine! I'll list the things I do have and what I plan on doing, this engine is going to be N/A turbo is just too much for the budget and feel the added weight an torque steer will decrease performance in the handling section

Ok so i have a choice of 3 blocks and 3 heads to get the best ones, I'll probably keep one together as a reference on how they go back together again! 1 of which is stripped down bare and the other is in two complete pieces head and block and the other is in the car still.

I've been mucking around with porting and flowing and have some pretty good ideas on what to do with the inlet and exhaust ports.
1: Heavily modify inlet ports and exhaust ports, reshaping valve guide ramps, and filling the injection notches to make the port flow nicely to the manifold, bronze guides fitted from SI and the ends reshaped to match the port work around the guide ramps.
2: Valves were going up a size I have a set of Blanks from SI valves that use the same stem sizes and I'll be jumping to 34mm on inlet side and 30mm on exhaust size both are stainless steel and will be backcut to match the new race seats that I'll have machined in.
3: Head and Block will be loosing some material looking at shaving 1mm off the head and .5mm off the block this will raise the CR ratio up nicely as well as make my F22 cam pulleys line up a little better.
4: Pistons this is where it gets a little sticky the JDMB20A has 22mm wrist pins the EDM ones are smaller I think mayeb 20mm or 21mm can't remember off top of my head anyone know without me having to dig one out from the bottom of my parts buckets! B20A5 are 22mm as well, not sure what to use here can we drop in B18A pistons looking at 82mm with a high compression trying to get to somewhere like 12:1. I do have wiseco forged pistons for B20A5 and Crower H23 rods but this was initially for a turbo setup so the CR ratio is 9:1 and the rods are seriously weighty unlike stock or the light weight N/A ones they do now, I also have a Eagle crank as well but as I'm sticking with N/A i don't think this should be needed! So basically looking for a easy to plug and play setup that doesn't need money spending on machining parts to fit each other and also common enough that they won't cost a fortune or possibly find 2nd hand. I don't mind using stock pistons and rods if they are upto the job. I'm aiming for as much N/A power as possible around 250bhp at flywheel.
5: Intake well that's sorted custom inlet manifold in stainless with 6" runners and pair of well modified Weber DCOE 45's which are capable of 250-260bhp easily they running modded chokes that are 42mm in size as well as flowed internals and butterfly screws removed and countersunk ones fitted and ground flush to spindle.
6: I believe the EDM flywheel is pretty heavy similar to A20 one so will be getting machine lighter, I believe as well that the A20 pressure plate and disk should fit can anyone confirm if so will be ordering up a stronger setup from clutchnet to use as anything less than this will either break or slip.
7: Gearbox if I fit an LSD from a newer Civic from Quaife or similar make anyone know the exact years? And also if i fit the LSD will this solve the problem of the stock diff breaking the pins holding it together and chewing through the gearbox casing? Std axles look in good shape and have a few of these to choose from.
8: Exhaust looking at getting a B20A5 header and have custom downpipe made up with 2" diameter piping into a 2.5" collector and mandrel bent system with sports silencers this should let the engine breathe properly!

Any more ideas on extra power and what parts they recommend please let me know! Be nice to see a serious B20A build going on looks like it's been a bit quiet here lately! thanks Rich!

mykwikcoupe
05-24-2011, 05:30 AM
Wow sounds like a nice build to me. The best advice on pistons is to use the B16 pistons. They should hold up well to your demands. The only requirement is to get the wrist pin on the piston enlarged to match the rod. It will move the piston to deck height up as well increasing the CR even more. I dont believe anyone has had any measurements done in the past to overall CR or new deck/piston height. These stockers should be fairly cheap as well. New cheapos are less then $200 on Ebay

As for the head keep us posted, if you finish with it or have room for another practice job let me know. Good luck and post lots of pics

rjudgey
05-24-2011, 07:19 AM
Will be keeping the engine hopefully to drop into my other B20A lude that I'm restoring. The head will be a monster and will put down some big numbers for sure especially with the larger valves and my special touch on the ports and chambers! :)
Just need to check on the wrist pin size on UK B20A if same size as B16/18 pistons will be laughing!! :)

mykwikcoupe
05-24-2011, 03:06 PM
will also be removing a few sets to ship to the USA to save in machine work. That would be great.

2oodoor
05-24-2011, 04:17 PM
will also be removing a few sets to ship to the USA to save in machine work. That would be great.

Huh?

Rich, you didn't mention cams. I was thinking of Crower b18 with the ends cut off for mine some day. This black top engine really needs a more aggresive cam when using a carburated set up. There were a few different Crowers available last time I looked.

Torque steer is inevitable sometimes, mine almost threw me off into the wall on the interstate one morning. Merged to the far left lane and floored it at same time dont do it!

mykwikcoupe
05-24-2011, 05:03 PM
I doubt the downshift from the auto trans had much to do with that as well. If you didnt put such a powerful engine in you wouldnt have that problem.

MessyHonda
05-25-2011, 12:02 AM
hey Rich i had some performance b20 stuff but they are all gone. just have the cams, port and polish head

rjudgey
05-26-2011, 02:33 AM
Whats the cams Messy? Sorry don't need a head I have 4 of them! lol! I got more B20A parts than Carotman! lol!

rjudgey
05-26-2011, 02:36 AM
Hi Roodoo2 yeah was thinking about the crowers as well or maybe get webcams to grind them found a place that can send them out and get done here in UK, but I'd rather have the crowers or possibly the Cat Cams which are also quality items but slightly pricey. I don't think there's many other cam options that I know off. Might have a word with some other cam places in UK see what they can do.

MessyHonda
05-26-2011, 11:54 PM
Whats the cams Messy? Sorry don't need a head I have 4 of them! lol! I got more B20A parts than Carotman! lol!

i have stage 2 web cams but they been sitting on the shelf so they have surface rust

rjudgey
05-27-2011, 02:26 AM
Oh messy what a shame that was what i was after or around that spec can you take some pics of just how bad it is? It's only got to last a few days so suppose a clean up with some WD40 and wet and dry might be ok.

Let me know how much you want for them as they are I'll make a couple of calls maybe a camshaft place can give them a clean up for a small cost.

Thanks Rich

rjudgey
05-27-2011, 07:43 AM
Found some nice B18 cams from crower
Stage 3 - 3/4 Race ones PN: 62404-2
Duration 263 inlet 258 exhaust
Lift .445" inlet .434 exhaust

They do a spring kit as well which is same as H23/B18 does anyone know if you can use these on std steel honda retainers or do you have to buy the crower ones? The spring kit and cam is pretty cheap so hoping to get both and still have enough left for a tasty exhaust setup and suspension setup.

As far as engine plans go I'm going to take .5mm off the block maybe even as much as 1mm, then I'm planning on taking off the head as far down as the chambers pent roof, so all you will see is the rectangular outline of the pent roof chamber, with stock 9.4:1 pistons this should see a really big bump in CR ratio hopefully to around 11:1, I'm having real issues getting any pistons that will work without having to resort to using my really heavy Crower rods that i have lying around. So I'm thinking stock rods just get them polished up, shot peened, balanced, get the stock pistons cleaned up and balanced as well, then new oversize rings then hand gap them once I've cleaned the bores up with a hone. If I can I may get new pistons with 81.5mm bore size i was thinking of using hondas new R18 pistons they are available in 81-82mm and are pretty much flat but trouble is exhaust valves are in wrong position and the valve reliefs and angle of them is wrong and not big enough for the size valves I'm using. Only thing I'm worried about with taking that much off the head and block is there enough room on the belt tensioner I'm sure there is just panicking! lol! I've got adjustable F22 pulley's already and having the head and blocked skimmed so much will actually make them line up better than they currently are!! which is cool!!

But anyway i think with a nice set of stock rods and pistons all blueprinted and tweaked, combined with the head work and new bigger valves, Dual weber setup, my B20A5 header modded with custom 2" downpipes and 2.5" system, crower Stage 3 cams, lightened flywheel, hopefully clutchnet A20 plate and disk should make for a pretty potent setup!!

Rest of the car should be coming along nicely have a company called GAZ shocks going to be matching up and modding some coilovers they make to fit, have poly bushes already to go on, then it just leaves getting some super sticky tyres on the car and strippin the hell out of the shell!!