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SFCA1987lx
06-10-2011, 11:47 AM
Debated putting this in the carb forum, but its got what "'m guessing is an electrical issues tied into it so here goes. So my 87 accord, with abut 168xxx on it has been having some issues with the carb(i think). A lot of the time when I start it up, it will rev anywhere from 1000-3500 rpm. If I put it in gear anywhere above about 1800 rpm, it clunks so hard I feel like my engine is going to fall out or something. I learned to live with this by turning on the ac and loading the engine anyway possible to get it where I can safely place it in gear and carry on. Now though, its new thing is if I idle for too long, say stop and go traffic or a drive-thru, suddenly my tach will start going insane, jumping all around from 0-5000+rpm but the engine isn't revving like the tach shows, and the SECOND I come to a complete stop, I have to apply 100% pressure to the brake peddle, because the engine will suddenly kick up a few hundred rpm's and lurch forward if I'm not ready for it. When I take my foot off the brake when it's doing this, it will lurch forward, roll for a second or two, then bog down to i'm guessing 800 rpm(normal idle feel) and then I continue on my merry way. Is my carb just going? is there anything I can do, short of replacing the carb? and why does the tachometer lose its shit too now? Sorry this is long, any help is greatly appreciated.

itzdave
06-10-2011, 11:56 AM
check for any vacuum leaks for the carb and distributer. an wasy way to check is to spray carb cleaner while the engine is running and the rpms will fluctuate.

SFCA1987lx
06-10-2011, 12:01 PM
I've tried looking for vacuum leaks before and I've never found any. And if there is a leak that I'm missing, how would it tweak the tach?

Also, I've found that when it starts tripping out, the best way to get it to get back to normal, I have to floor the engine, usually 3 or 4 times, on open road so revs really high then shifts into 3rd or 4th, then it's all better until I have to slow down a lot again.

car6289
06-10-2011, 01:16 PM
Your tach is losing its' shit because your ignitor is probably on its' way out. If you have a Hitachi distributor the ignitor is internal (under the cap), if you have a TEC distributor the ignitor is external on the side of the distributor.

As for your mental idle problem there is no magic bullet here. Methodical troubleshooting of the carb and its' inter-related systems with the service manual Chapter 11 Fuel & Emissions (Carb) should help you solve your idle issue. The USDM service manual here http://3geez.wiki-tv.com/Honda_service_manuals is for a 1989. I'm not sure of the differences in the carb and systems between 87 and 89.

-$MOKIN-
06-10-2011, 03:32 PM
Brake pressure ?

SFCA1987lx
06-10-2011, 04:57 PM
Brake pressure ?

What about it?

-$MOKIN-
06-10-2011, 05:03 PM
How is it? Does the pedal feel sloppy?

SFCA1987lx
06-10-2011, 07:07 PM
How is it? Does the pedal feel sloppy?

Nope, brakes are good, I'm certified in brakes, suspension, and alignment, so theres nothing wrong there.

reYmo
06-11-2011, 05:18 AM
Debated putting this in the carb forum, but its got what "'m guessing is an electrical issues tied into it so here goes. So my 87 accord, with abut 168xxx on it has been having some issues with the carb(i think). A lot of the time when I start it up, it will rev anywhere from 1000-3500 rpm. If I put it in gear anywhere above about 1800 rpm, it clunks so hard I feel like my engine is going to fall out or something. I learned to live with this by turning on the ac and loading the engine anyway possible to get it where I can safely place it in gear and carry on. Now though, its new thing is if I idle for too long, say stop and go traffic or a drive-thru, suddenly my tach will start going insane, jumping all around from 0-5000+rpm but the engine isn't revving like the tach shows, and the SECOND I come to a complete stop, I have to apply 100% pressure to the brake peddle, because the engine will suddenly kick up a few hundred rpm's and lurch forward if I'm not ready for it. When I take my foot off the brake when it's doing this, it will lurch forward, roll for a second or two, then bog down to i'm guessing 800 rpm(normal idle feel) and then I continue on my merry way. Is my carb just going? is there anything I can do, short of replacing the carb? and why does the tachometer lose its shit too now? Sorry this is long, any help is greatly appreciated.

its definetely from distributor Sir. I believe you use a CDI magnetic trigger inside the distributor housing. Try to near-en gap between rotor and pulser>
Hope this will help

SFCA1987lx
06-23-2011, 01:48 AM
its definetely from distributor Sir. I believe you use a CDI magnetic trigger inside the distributor housing. Try to near-en gap between rotor and pulser>
Hope this will help

Hmm, I will definitely give this a try. Also, another totally random thing I forgot to mention, the problem with it deciding to rev high if I idle for longer than it likes, almost never occurs if I have more than a half tank of gas. If it's less than a half tank, its happens really easily.

reYmo
06-23-2011, 04:20 AM
Hmm, I will definitely give this a try. Also, another totally random thing I forgot to mention, the problem with it deciding to rev high if I idle for longer than it likes, almost never occurs if I have more than a half tank of gas. If it's less than a half tank, its happens really easily.

Hmm, so weird...I cannot find any relationship between fuel level and high revving engine..I wish I was there to inspect the car myself...Is there fuel vapor pressure build up in the tank, so it creates enough pressure to deliver more fuel to the carb? while there is not much vapor created in a tank full of gasoline..but if this is what happening, how can the excess fuel go through the fuel chamber in the carb and then got sucked by intake? cause there is a floating valve which control the level of fuel there..
is there any black smoke come out from exhaust when you rev the engine high?

Dr_Snooz
06-23-2011, 08:28 PM
I would carefully remove the stock carburetor, place it gently in the middle of the driveway and smash it with a BFH. Then replace it with a Weber. Do you have to pass emissions? Also, sounds like your igniter is going south. That will cause the crazy tach.

reYmo
06-24-2011, 03:31 AM
I would carefully remove the stock carburetor, place it gently in the middle of the driveway and smash it with a BFH. Then replace it with a Weber. Do you have to pass emissions? Also, sounds like your igniter is going south. That will cause the crazy tach.

a smart way to solve the problem tho'

g.frost
06-24-2011, 10:40 AM
You could try to diagnose and fix the problem(s) by following the detailed test procedures in the service manual. It sounds like at least 2 (separate) problems; electrical with the Tach behavior and carb with the idle issues (Idle control, fast idle and/or choke opener maybe?) Quit driving it until you fix it or you will soon need to fix the transmission and maybe rebuild the engine.

SFCA1987lx
07-05-2011, 08:05 PM
Hmm, so weird...I cannot find any relationship between fuel level and high revving engine..I wish I was there to inspect the car myself...Is there fuel vapor pressure build up in the tank, so it creates enough pressure to deliver more fuel to the carb? while there is not much vapor created in a tank full of gasoline..but if this is what happening, how can the excess fuel go through the fuel chamber in the carb and then got sucked by intake? cause there is a floating valve which control the level of fuel there..
is there any black smoke come out from exhaust when you rev the engine high?

no, no burning smoke ever. well, not at least since i replaced the valve cover gasket haha

SFCA1987lx
07-05-2011, 08:06 PM
I would carefully remove the stock carburetor, place it gently in the middle of the driveway and smash it with a BFH. Then replace it with a Weber. Do you have to pass emissions? Also, sounds like your igniter is going south. That will cause the crazy tach.


I would love to do that if only i had the $$ for a weber and then the skills to install it. im keeping that BFH handy though...

g.frost
07-06-2011, 07:18 PM
If your only tool is a hammer, a carb is just another nail. Do you have a vacuum pump/gauge? That's the diagnostic tool you need.

If you live in SF, I don't think CA emissions will pass the Weber mod.