burning oil really bad in A20A3.

[Convenienze]

so ive got a pretty bad problem here. ive got a 89 Accord lx-i 2door 5speed..

well, im burning oil at a pretty bad rate, atleast i think its burning it, i took the plugs out and the tips are not fouled or anything but just after the threads end it has some oil on them.

well, im not really sure if it has a constant smoke but when you are on the highway its noticable when you do an rpm change.
if im riding at say.. 2900 rpm, going about 70mph it doesnt really smoke ( that i can see) but when i am riding at a constant rpm like 2900.. then hit the gas over 3k it smokes pretty good for a couple seconds then goes back to how it was at 2900, and the same thing if i was going like 85.. around 3200 or so.. its not really smoking but when i give it gas it smokes then stops. also the smoke is grey-ish.

also another issue with smoking, sometimes at random the engine light will come on and it will have a massive smoke cloud really dark close to black color, and the engins sputters for a few seconds. if i push in the clutch and rev it it will stop, but i dont know what is causing that, only thing i can really think is an injector sticking or something and loading it up with gas.. black smoke usually means gas right?
not sure whats going on.

is this from rings? or valve seals or something else? i was planning on replacing both.
no ive not done a compression test i dont have anything to do it with.

well if anyone can help me.. id really appreciate it, it would help a ton :)

edit. well i should also mention my car has 221k miles on it.

[stat1K]

you're on the right track. i'd do a compression test as your first test.

[2oodoor]

what code ya got on that engine light?

[lostforawhile]

so ive got a pretty bad problem here. ive got a 89 Accord lx-i 2door 5speed..

well, im burning oil at a pretty bad rate, atleast i think its burning it, i took the plugs out and the tips are not fouled or anything but just after the threads end it has some oil on them.

well, im not really sure if it has a constant smoke but when you are on the highway its noticable when you do an rpm change.
if im riding at say.. 2900 rpm, going about 70mph it doesnt really smoke ( that i can see) but when i am riding at a constant rpm like 2900.. then hit the gas over 3k it smokes pretty good for a couple seconds then goes back to how it was at 2900, and the same thing if i was going like 85.. around 3200 or so.. its not really smoking but when i give it gas it smokes then stops. also the smoke is grey-ish.

also another issue with smoking, sometimes at random the engine light will come on and it will have a massive smoke cloud really dark close to black color, and the engins sputters for a few seconds. if i push in the clutch and rev it it will stop, but i dont know what is causing that, only thing i can really think is an injector sticking or something and loading it up with gas.. black smoke usually means gas right?
not sure whats going on.

is this from rings? or valve seals or something else? i was planning on replacing both.
no ive not done a compression test i dont have anything to do it with.

well if anyone can help me.. id really appreciate it, it would help a ton :)

edit. well i should also mention my car has 221k miles on it.

the smoke at rpm change sounds like bad valve stem seals, very common at this many miles, they just disintegrate over time, especially the exhaust ones, if they are gone, this engine will burn oil like crazy, the cloud of smoke with the check engine light, that sounds like fuel smoke,not oil smoke, oil smoke is more of a blue color, a rich mixture will cause black smoke

[Convenienze]

what code ya got on that engine light?

im not sure. :/ every place i go to does not have the old system to check this. as its not obd-2

and im thinking after i get paid in the morning ill buy a ring, seals and gaskets to replace what i take apart. and try to replace them as soon as i can.. which im not sure when ill get days off to do so. but.. i drive about 85 miles round trip to work and back a day, and it eats about a half a quart a day.. its pretty bad.

but, also i didnt mention the car did sit for 4 years, ive just got it re registered so its a daily driver for now. but the oil issue was already there when i bought the car, i just didnt know it was that bad :s

[Dr_Snooz]

x2 on the compression check. Check with your local Autozone. They might have a tester you can rent.

This thread will tell you how to check the codes: http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=26342

[Convenienze]

well, when it does get the engine light on it turns off after i shut the car off and turn it back on.

but, im not sure if its normal but.
every time i turn the key to the 2nd click before cranking the engine light flashes 2 times.

[stat1K]

code 2 is for an oxygen sensor

[lostforawhile]

the o2 sensor code could be a bad O2 sensor, which might account for the rich smoke, or it may be so covered in soot, it's not working anymore, black smoke is a sure sign the engine is far too rich, check your fuel pressure regulator

[Convenienze]

the o2 sensor code could be a bad O2 sensor, which might account for the rich smoke, or it may be so covered in soot, it's not working anymore, black smoke is a sure sign the engine is far too rich, check your fuel pressure regulator

well, im not quite sure how to check them other than try to blow minimal air through it with a compressor to see if it will open, in which case ive done that. and it did open. also my bad on the engine light. it flashes 2 times on the "1" position on the key not 2

[88Accord-DX]

Sounds like a combination of burning oil & a bad oxygen sensor. Do a compression test at normal operating temps as mentioned. That is good starting point.
You can replace the valve stem seals with each cylinder at TDC. Anything this age has bad ones. I'd change the PCV valve & bad oxygen sensor first & see what happens since it's easier. If your serious about the condition of the cylinder walls, blow by will show up with a leak down test at operating temps w/ that cylinder at TDC.

[Vanilla Sky]

Hey man, I'm about an hour away in Palatka if you want me to take a look-see at it. Everyone sounds like they're on the right track with doing a compression check, but there's the possibility that it's a faulty PCV system.

[Convenienze]

Hey man, I'm about an hour away in Palatka if you want me to take a look-see at it. Everyone sounds like they're on the right track with doing a compression check, but there's the possibility that it's a faulty PCV system.

could be an option. id have to see what days i have free and then maybe i could drop by.
im pretty new to messing around with honda stuff. im used to just working on old v8's.

but thanks guys alot for giving these suggestions they are helping narrow things down alot.

edit also guys, im thinking of buying a gasket set. this comes with the stem seals also.

http://www.jisautoengine.com/honda-prelude-accord-85-89-a20a-full-gasket-set-hfsa20.html

anyone know anything bout this site? or would anyone here have a better suggestion on a place for a gasket set.

[Convenienze]

hmm well.. im really thinking of getting a different motor all together.
im trying to find just another a20a3 but if i cant ill try to find another cheap motor.. i really dont know where to look though, ive posted on craigslist about an a20a3 someone has emailed me but im waiting for a response back from him on details.
anyone happen to know of any places in general mid FL area that sells honda motors? like a jdm place or something..
id be willing to spend around 5-700.. i dont need anything spectacular. just a reliable swap for cheap.

also.

the thing with the engine light im not sure really why it is doing it, as long as my stereo power is turned off the engine light, along with the other dash lights do not flash on the first key click.

forgot to mention the one other thing too.. its with my ignition system.. i can not start the car with a key ive unplugged the wire that runs to the starter and replaced it with a push button system, have the key turned on the 2 position then push the button to start the car. which is pretty much a wire running from the battery to the button, from the button to the starter. and it starts that way..
its not a big issue but id like to find out why its doing that

[Convenienze]

so i went to the junkyard today.. there is a 87 accord there with an a20a3.. but its not wrecked.. so im scared to spend the time pulling the engine apart in the heat out there to buy a head and pistons from it if its junk..
edit: it had 134k miles. and was auto.


but they have really nice 3g coupe in the processing part of the yard. the manager gave me a free pass to get back in another day because the site listed it as in the yard.. and i went there and its still in the drainage portion of the yard..
im gonna call tomorrow to find out when it will be ready for picking. hopefully it will be worth the wait..
also i might bring a battery with me so i can see if the engine on the 87 is seized or not.

[lostforawhile]

so i went to the junkyard today.. there is a 87 accord there with an a20a3.. but its not wrecked.. so im scared to spend the time pulling the engine apart in the heat out there to buy a head and pistons from it if its junk..
edit: it had 134k miles. and was auto.


but they have really nice 3g coupe in the processing part of the yard. the manager gave me a free pass to get back in another day because the site listed it as in the yard.. and i went there and its still in the drainage portion of the yard..
im gonna call tomorrow to find out when it will be ready for picking. hopefully it will be worth the wait..
also i might bring a battery with me so i can see if the engine on the 87 is seized or not.
with 124 thousand better grab it, thats nothing on these cars

[88Accord-DX]

If the car has been sitting for a long time, rust more than likely has got the rings a little seized up to the cylinder walls. I would pull the plugs real quick, spray some PB Laster in the cylinders & turn the crank bolt to free the pistons up.. Then turn the key over with a good battery..

[Dr_Snooz]

You should make sure you actually need an engine. It could just be the PCV valve malfunctioning or too much oil in the crankcase.

Do the compression test first. If you have money for an engine, you have money to buy a compression tester and make sure you actually need one.

[Convenienze]

changed my mind again.. im just gonna deal with it for a few months untill i save enough for another car.
ill end up getting eiter a boosted accord / civic, a 240sx or a FC rx7.
whichever i find first for a better deal i will jump on.
so as of now im not worried about fixing it.

btw i took off the intake hose and the intake is coated in oil behind the butterfly.
also the inlet hose from pcv valve to intake also has oil in it. im guessing the oil is mainly coming from there.
but im pretty sure the rings are also dead as the engine hardly has any power.

[lostforawhile]

why not check to see if some of the Florida members have an engine for sale? It makes no sense to get another car when an engine can be had so cheaply for that one, and it's not that bad to change

[Convenienze]

well idk really.
ive posted in the wanted section and got 1 pm, one person was pming me but lives in SC. doesnt really wanna sell what he has.
the other thing is i cant really afford to have the car down for more than 1 afternoon, because of my job.

[lostforawhile]

well idk really.
ive posted in the wanted section and got 1 pm, one person was pming me but lives in SC. doesnt really wanna sell what he has.
the other thing is i cant really afford to have the car down for more than 1 afternoon, because of my job.

if you get another car they are basically going to give you scrap value for that one, keep it and buy a second car, I know there are a bunch of Florida members who have engines, you need to grab the low mileage engine you saw at the yard

[rocketman]

Why don't you try an oil change to 20W50? Betcha you'll drop your oil consumption. You're in Florida, right? That should be no problem. I use it during the Summer up here in Pennsylvania and I used to have a lot more drips and smoke on start-up before I started using it. Rocketman

[Convenienze]

i already tried swapping to 20w50. its what ive been putting in it since about the start of this thread.

i think im going to try to make a catch can with a reservoir on the pcv valve hose going into the intake and see what it does and see if it helps any.

[Dr_Snooz]

Did you ever actually check the code flashing from the blinking LED under the driver's seat?

[Convenienze]

Did you ever actually check the code flashing from the blinking LED under the driver's seat?

sure didnt.

i believe it was o2 sensor though.

also i think i may have fixed it..

i decided to buy a new pcv valve. well while changing it i broke the old one off inside the metal tube.. that was a nightmare. well i started to take all the intake off.. untill i realized i could not remove the bolts on te bottom of the intake.. i was trying to get the black box off so i can clean it and remove the piece from the metal tube..

well. i ended up just sticking the new pcv valve on it without taking the existing broken piece out.. it cant really do any harm as its wedged inside the tube and will not move.
i put it all back together and it was still smoking.. well. i believe it was just smoking the oil out that was already in the engine. oh also the intake was coated in oil.. i mean bad.

it did stop smoking after a long drive of burning the oil out from the old pcv valve. and i just drove it to work and back going 75-80 on the highway all the way and back, got home checked the oil and it is still as full as it was before i left for work.
the rings might not be bad afterall..
also it seems to have a bit more power.
but there is a new issue striking me. after i finished this, it seems that i have a verry loud piercing squeak comming from my engine bay at times.. i am thinking it is the altenator, as thats where most of the noise comes from.. its not constant. but it seems that when the altenator is charging the battery it squeals really bad.. maybe its going bad? idk..
i have a 2400 watt amp powering 2 12's for a stereo.. maybe it is killing the altenator..? idk

but. im not 100% sure the oil thing is fixed.. but im pretty sure it might be.

[stephensimmons]

sure didnt.

i believe it was o2 sensor though.

also i think i may have fixed it..

i decided to buy a new pcv valve. well while changing it i broke the old one off inside the metal tube.. that was a nightmare. well i started to take all the intake off.. untill i realized i could not remove the bolts on te bottom of the intake.. i was trying to get the black box off so i can clean it and remove the piece from the metal tube..

well. i ended up just sticking the new pcv valve on it without taking the existing broken piece out.. it cant really do any harm as its wedged inside the tube and will not move.
i put it all back together and it was still smoking.. well. i believe it was just smoking the oil out that was already in the engine. oh also the intake was coated in oil.. i mean bad.

it did stop smoking after a long drive of burning the oil out from the old pcv valve. and i just drove it to work and back going 75-80 on the highway all the way and back, got home checked the oil and it is still as full as it was before i left for work.
the rings might not be bad afterall..
also it seems to have a bit more power.
but there is a new issue striking me. after i finished this, it seems that i have a verry loud piercing squeak comming from my engine bay at times.. i am thinking it is the altenator, as thats where most of the noise comes from.. its not constant. but it seems that when the altenator is charging the battery it squeals really bad.. maybe its going bad? idk..
i have a 2400 watt amp powering 2 12's for a stereo.. maybe it is killing the altenator..? idk

but. im not 100% sure the oil thing is fixed.. but im pretty sure it might be.

Get you a new alternator belt and I bet the noise will go away.

[Convenienze]

Get you a new alternator belt and I bet the noise will go away.

think so?

it sounds like the actual unit itself though.

[Vanilla Sky]

Given that you have 222,222.2 miles on the car, I'd suspect the alternator itself as well. There's a really simple test, though. If it's the belt (driveline), the squeal will change if you spray water on it. If it stays the same, it's probably the bearings in the alternator. They're a bit of a pain to replace, but they're not THAT bad. I can lend a hand if you'd like if it turns out to be the alternator.

[Convenienze]

Given that you have 222,222.2 miles on the car, I'd suspect the alternator itself as well. There's a really simple test, though. If it's the belt (driveline), the squeal will change if you spray water on it. If it stays the same, it's probably the bearings in the alternator. They're a bit of a pain to replace, but they're not THAT bad. I can lend a hand if you'd like if it turns out to be the alternator.

yeah ive had it off in the past, but turned out it wasnt the problem ( then )
but i took it out through removing the axle.. but when i just did the work i was doing yesterday with the intake i discovered you can just remoe the air filter box and take the altenator out of the top. which is far more simple. :)
ill look at the belts first, tighten them if needed and maybe put some belt dressing spray on them? see if that stuff helps and if not im sure ill need to buy another.. ill try to grab one from the junkyard. if the accord is still there. would be $25. and if it doesnt work i just gotta bring it back for a refund.. so its worth a shot.

[Convenienze]

adding some more stuff to this..

seems like each thing i fix something else goes bad.

i believe i fixed the squeal, i sprayed it pretty good with belt conditioner and tightened the belt up. and no squeal.

but now my engine light is constantly on and im getting 2 flashing led lights under the seat. which is o2 sensor but where is it located so i can try to clean it?
also i should mention its making my engine idle SUPER low like 400-500 rpm at idle.. it almost wants to die.
and when i try to start the car it doesnt wanna start it takes a few seconds and it never does that, its always instant start.

[lostforawhile]

adding some more stuff to this..

seems like each thing i fix something else goes bad.

i believe i fixed the squeal, i sprayed it pretty good with belt conditioner and tightened the belt up. and no squeal.

but now my engine light is constantly on and im getting 2 flashing led lights under the seat. which is o2 sensor but where is it located so i can try to clean it?
also i should mention its making my engine idle SUPER low like 400-500 rpm at idle.. it almost wants to die.
and when i try to start the car it doesnt wanna start it takes a few seconds and it never does that, its always instant start.you have over 200000 miles on the car, get two new o2 sensors, they are probably shot by now, they don't last forever, they are standard maintenance items

[Convenienze]

you have over 200000 miles on the car, get two new o2 sensors, they are probably shot by now, they don't last forever, they are standard maintenance items

sure ill look into it.
could you lemme know the locations of said o2 sensors? :)

[Vanilla Sky]

There really isn't any cleaning to an O2 sensor. They're the 2 plugs that hang off of the front of the exhaust manifold.

There are 2 of them on these cars. They're just under $15 each. If you spend $30 online with Advance Auto Parts, there's a $10 coupon. The code is DEALIO. It's $10 off of $30, $20 off of $50, and $40 off of $100. You can order them online and pick them up in store in 15 minutes.

Just a heads up, but that belt conditioner is bad for belts. It makes the rubber softer so it grips better, but at the same time allows more slippage. I'd just spring for a new belt and clean the dressing off of the pulleys.

[Convenienze]

one more thing. im looking at the site at the moment. gonna get them, but are they both the same? or is it 2 different ones.

[Vanilla Sky]

Both the same.

Be sure to rent the socket for it. You can normally do the change in the parking lot, unless the $15 sensors are the universal ones that have to have the plugs attached. It's one of the few jobs I make sure I pick up the tool for.

[Convenienze]

Both the same.

alright.
thanks a ton for all the help y'all are giving by the way, really friendly site.
im enjoying it.

[Vanilla Sky]

There's a reason we're sad to hear you're considering getting rid of the car. They're great cars, and not many people actually care for them anymore. Even nearing 1/4 million miles, you still have a lot of life left. There have been 1/4 million A series motors pulled apart that still had good cross-hatching on the cylinder walls. You seem to care enough to make sure it's running right.

[Convenienze]

There's a reason we're sad to hear you're considering getting rid of the car. They're great cars, and not many people actually care for them anymore. Even nearing 1/4 million miles, you still have a lot of life left. There have been 1/4 million A series motors pulled apart that still had good cross-hatching on the cylinder walls. You seem to care enough to make sure it's running right.

yeah, i do care that its running right, its a really great car i love it.
im not really wanting to part with it, its just getting to the point where it might be a future project on building the A20, maybe ill keep the A20 in it and boost it eventually, nothing super crazy just 6-8psi i think would be great for a daily driver with some added fun, 6-8 shouldnt fry the tires to bad and should be plenty for the A20.
changing the pcv valve seems to have helped a lot on performance on it also, im guessing the rings are still kicking, there is no more smoke and the engine has more power than before. also.. is there any possibility that it has a posi front end? both the wheels seem to get equal power and leaving 2 tracks.. not saying im out doing clutch dumps, just fast accel from 1st gear, and both seem to grip and leave marks.

by the way i just went and picked up the o2 sensors. i wont replace them tonight, as the engine is hot.. and i have work in a few hours.
so ill do them sometime on the weekend or next week some time.
untill then it should be ok, it still runs really good just the idle is bad..

[Vanilla Sky]

If it fits in a first gen Integra's transmission, it will fit in ours. While you're going that deep, you might as well mix and match gears and have a nice and tight 1st-4th and a deep 5th for cruising. Again, Integra parts work, as do 2nd gen Prelude parts.

[DatHatch]

theres a good trick to running shell rotella diesel oil on cars with bad valve seals and piston rings. it sounds like a valve seal issue though... theres also chevron delo oil...just make sure its diesel oil.. give it a try it helped my 3g it smoked alot when i got it. now it doesnt burn any oil

[Convenienze]

working on it now..

cant seem to ge the o2 sensors out.. anyone have any tips on doing so?
i cant seem to find out how to get a wrench on them lol.

edit.. i guess i need an o2 sensor socket?
guess i gotta go buy one now lol.

next edit.. i went to autozone and lent one.. but the one on the left is rounding off.. i got the right one out..
quick question, which o2 sensor is sensor b? the left or right.

[Convenienze]

well, i got them changed... ended up removing the radiator and all that crap, so i could break the tip off the old sensor and put a smaller bit on top of it and whack it with a hammer. sure enough it broke loose. new o2 sensors are a go.
putting her back together as we speak.

also found why my ac compressor was not kicking on. something chewed the wire :/ lol. well i fixed it.. ill see if she kicks on with the button now when im done, and get her charged up and see where my leak is.

starting to have a little more faith in this car the more i mess with it.

[ecogabriel]

well, i got them changed... ended up removing the radiator and all that crap, so i could break the tip off the old sensor and put a smaller bit on top of it and whack it with a hammer. sure enough it broke loose. new o2 sensors are a go.
putting her back together as we speak.

also found why my ac compressor was not kicking on. something chewed the wire :/ lol. well i fixed it.. ill see if she kicks on with the button now when im done, and get her charged up and see where my leak is.

starting to have a little more faith in this car the more i mess with it.

O2 sensors are a regular tune-up item. I believe the replacement interval is in the 30K ballpark; make a note when you did it so you'll know. The "universal-type" are cheaper but you need to get the connector from the old one (anyway, it is just one wire!)

If the O2 sensors came with anti-seize compound, just apply it on the threads. It'll make removal a little easier later on

You will need to overcome years of neglect when getting an old car. As good as they are they need the care. Once you start getting them right they'll keep on ticking

[Convenienze]

so.. i unplugged the battery... let it sit a few mins, rehooked it.. turned it on it idled fine then shut it off... engine light still on.
reset the ecu again. and its getting code 6 now..
ECT Sensor..
and its idleing really bad again... what to do..

[lostforawhile]

so.. i unplugged the battery... let it sit a few mins, rehooked it.. turned it on it idled fine then shut it off... engine light still on.
reset the ecu again. and its getting code 6 now..
ECT Sensor..
and its idleing really bad again... what to do..

thats the engine coolant temp sensor, you have two, one for the gauge, and one for the ECU, I believe on the FI cars the ecu one is on the thermostat housing, if the engine thinks the temp is different then it actually is, this can cause a rough idle,it's possible while you were in there, you moved something, or it's another bad or chewed wire

[Vanilla Sky]

My offer of checking it out still stands. I've got the factory service manual on my computer, but it's pretty large (30MB, Zipped). I'm free this weekend if you are.

[Convenienze]

wish i was free, ive got work though :/

also i bought a new sensor for that.. and my engine light is gone.
and its running better but my idle is a bit bugged still.. its kinda weird.
edit.. i think the idle may be messed up still because of when i was taking the intake off, the throttle cable got tweaked in adjustment. nd i cant seem to get it right again.

[Vanilla Sky]

You might have oil fouled spark plugs. I'd pull them to check, since you just got rid of an oil burning issue.

[Dr_Snooz]

Both the same.


Minor note: the wire is longer for the left sensor. If you get them switched, the wire won't reach.

[Convenienze]

ill mess around with the cable and look at the plugs tomorrow. it got dark to fast :s
spent most of the day trying to get that stuck o2 sensor out..
but atleast the engine light is gone.. man that thing was annoying driving at night to work.. so bright lol.

[88Accord-DX]

I figured it the PCV valve was mainly the problem.

The oxygen sensor sometimes needs some persuation to get out, like some heat on it & a good oxygen sensor socket with some PB Laster for soaking at first. Hopefully you have a direct fitting oxygen sensor with no wire splices/butt connections/ heat shrink .... OEM or Bosh is about the best bet on that sensor for direct fit...

[Convenienze]

I figured it the PCV valve was mainly the problem.

The oxygen sensor sometimes needs some persuation to get out, like some heat on it & a good oxygen sensor socket with some PB Laster for soaking at first. Hopefully you have a direct fitting oxygen sensor with no wire splices/butt connections/ heat shrink .... OEM or Bosh is about the best bet on that sensor for direct fit...

i bought a set of bosch ones that have the metal connectors with heat shrink on em.. i dont have the money at the moment to buy the best things, just something that will work for a while.
but they seem to work so its all good.
about to see if i can mess around with the idle so i can get that sorted

[Convenienze]

good news.

i fixed the idle. it seems as good as its gonna get. which is about normal not 100% perfect but about 95%
gas gauge is working again.
i guess it was just gummed up or something but its reading now..
so thats 2 more things fixed.
but the a/c thing didn't work so i guess im not gonna worry about a/c right now.
does the a/c system have to be charged in order for the a/c clutch to kick on? or does it work no matter.
edit, no time to look at the plugs today. it started raining after i fixed the idle and went to get gas.

[Vanilla Sky]

Unless you short out the clutch to stay on, you have to have a charge in the AC system. I have a set of R134 gauges if you have a converted system.

[Convenienze]

Unless you short out the clutch to stay on, you have to have a charge in the AC system. I have a set of R134 gauges if you have a converted system.

its just got the stock stuff that came with it.

also gas guage doesnt seem to go down as i use gas..

before it was stuck on empty, now its stuck on full lol.

it used to work before it sat for 4 years..
in that time the fuel pump went bad also. and i replaced it.
does that have anything to do with it?

edit. also.. has anyone messed with dropzone lowering springs?
im thinking about buying some next week if they are any good.

[Convenienze]

here is a thread i started with some pics.
anything else you wanna see specifically lemme know :)

http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1072235#post1072235

[Vanilla Sky]

Dropzone springs need more strut than you can purchase. Hit up the "which shock/spring" thread in suspension for more info. I'd stick with something that will work alright with dampers available off the shelf.

[Convenienze]

ah. i see.

[Convenienze]

getting code for air idle control valve... are those able to be cleaned or do i have to just get another? :/

new ones is $154.. best bet would be try the junkyard i guess if i have to get another..
the one i go to here has a 30 day warranty on parts.. if it doesn't work i can take it back..

[Vanilla Sky]

I'm willing to bet that ever member here that's been a member for more than 2 years and daily drives a fuel injected 3gee has cleaned the IACV. Some haven't had any issues, some have had to replace it. I say you should try to clean it.

[Convenienze]

well, ill pull it off when i wake up. clean it all out and see if it works.

maybe that explains why my idle was messing up before.

[Convenienze]

well i cleaned it, seems to be working for now. light is off and stuff.. hope it stays working.

edit.. light is still off but its idleing like garbage. might be bad..