MrSamson
07-22-2011, 12:01 AM
I have been having problems with my 1988 Honda Accord LX 5-speed relevant to fuel delivery for some time, and my choke system on the original carb was nonfunctional.
I bought this car for 400 bucks a couple of years ago...and today it is at 202K miles. It had significant paint failure with the clearcoat. It also had CV joint with a failed boot.
I repainted the exterior using the roller method.
I also replaced the damaged CV joint which went surprisingly well.
I decided to go with the 32/36 Weber. The locked How To thread on here is incredibly helpful but I needed more detailed info. Fortunately a simple search found suffice information to complete the install.
I cant believe how well this carb is performing based on a basic bolt on install - I have not tweaked with the adjustments as of this time and it is pretty amazing performance, but I do plan to tweak with these.
At any rate, I thank anyone on here that provided info. on this swap as I read a lot of threads and attained a pretty good understanding of how to complete the install based on everything I found on here.
At any rate - here is a picture of the engine bay as stock setup:
http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z94/MrSamsonphotos/HondaSTOCK.jpg
Here is a picture of all that garbage removed from engine bay...many folks on here talked about how good it felt to remove these things and I must say I concur:
http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z94/MrSamsonphotos/CARBGONE.jpg
NOTES: These two bolts at the back of the intake manifold (next to the coolant port that eventually gets plugged) were a MOTHER to remove...in fact, they did not ever come out. I pulled all the tricks - and the one we focused on first ended up breaking at the carb surface. SOOO - the carb swap progressed to an intake manifold removal too. This extended the install by adding several days as I had to take the manifold to a machinist to remove the other frozen bolt, rebuild the broken bolt side, and while he was at it drive a screw into the coolant port. I then ended up filling the coolant hole the rest of the way to make a level install surface with Quicksteel.
I am NOT a mechanic by trade, although I like to tinker obviously. This swap should be in a lot of folks' reach. My point: when I came to the point in this swap where I realized an intake manifold removal was required, I almost threw in the towel and gave up. HOWEVER, with all that stupid carb emissions crap out of the picture, working within the engine bay now is much, much less intimidating.
Here is a random picture on the gas input/EGR side:
http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z94/MrSamsonphotos/Progressoninstall.jpg
Here is a picture of the linkage side, final install:
http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z94/MrSamsonphotos/FinalCARB.jpg
NOTES: I read a suggestion on here that using the original carb cable to carb linkage was the suprior choice. I read that someone dremeled out the smaller hole of the original linkage to fit on the new carb throttle-bolt mount. This required a LOT of patience but in retrospect I agree THIS IS SUPERIOR. I mounted the return spring (that came with the kit) as pictured, and I find the return tension at the throttle via foot to be suffice with this setup and the provided spring in the kit.
I also realized that the plugged ports on the intake manifold require a fastener - of which I used hose clamps (which I dont really like and may change) - but my point is the swap is running pretty good now, but I had two limp-home experiences.
The first tweak I needed to make on install required me to plug the AS Valve tube with Quicksteel as apposed to the original high-temp tape. The tape was not suffice in totally blocking the pressure changes that occur in tandem with the high heat. The Quicksteel plug I have now I think puts this problem behind me. When this blew on the maiden voyage after swap it was a LOUD limp home (at 1233 AM, BTW!!!).
My other failure was that one of these plugs blew from the pressure exchange and heat - they just let go. Obviously this created a vacuum leak and I again managed to limp home.
Other challenge - My original wiring for the choke was NOT a 12V power source. I have now tweaked this with a varified 12V Key on power source and sure enough, the choke worked today!
Here is a final picture of the install outside from a small distance:
http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z94/MrSamsonphotos/FinalCARBmacro.jpg
Questions:
I am interested in installing a more comfortable front seat as the drivers seat I have is damaged and really pretty uncomfortable...any suggestions on a swap I might be interested/easy/and most important COMFORTABLE that I should be looking for? Lots of access to junk yards around here.
Also -
I used to have cruise control, but now the push-button activation light still goes on, and the dashboard 'ON' green cruise control indicator goes on - but it is not functioning...when I let off the foot, it just slowly started to decrease speed. I kept everything I removed so far - I think I removed some vacuum based 'actuator' cruise control items. Anyone familiar with the cruise control system look at my picture of the linkage side and could give me advice?
Fun project I highly recommend.
I am going to assume the MPG will be impacted - however this will remain my most economical vehicle to drive based on the 3 I currently own. You can also expect to drive differently as there is overall power increase but the BULK of the changes noticable to me are when that second port opens which seems to be at or around 75% toward WOT. Onramps for highways or interstates now is MUCH different with this acceleration. I would think that if you did not live in this section of the throttle and kept it pretty conservative - you would see good MPG.
At any rate, it is this area of the throttle spectrum where the car REALLY has woken up.
At any rate, fun stuff. After tweaking with the carb I am going to attempt emissions testing here just to see what happens but I have a gut feeling it is going to pass.
The car really seems to be able to breath now without restriction.
Thanks again for all the great info!
MrS.
I bought this car for 400 bucks a couple of years ago...and today it is at 202K miles. It had significant paint failure with the clearcoat. It also had CV joint with a failed boot.
I repainted the exterior using the roller method.
I also replaced the damaged CV joint which went surprisingly well.
I decided to go with the 32/36 Weber. The locked How To thread on here is incredibly helpful but I needed more detailed info. Fortunately a simple search found suffice information to complete the install.
I cant believe how well this carb is performing based on a basic bolt on install - I have not tweaked with the adjustments as of this time and it is pretty amazing performance, but I do plan to tweak with these.
At any rate, I thank anyone on here that provided info. on this swap as I read a lot of threads and attained a pretty good understanding of how to complete the install based on everything I found on here.
At any rate - here is a picture of the engine bay as stock setup:
http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z94/MrSamsonphotos/HondaSTOCK.jpg
Here is a picture of all that garbage removed from engine bay...many folks on here talked about how good it felt to remove these things and I must say I concur:
http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z94/MrSamsonphotos/CARBGONE.jpg
NOTES: These two bolts at the back of the intake manifold (next to the coolant port that eventually gets plugged) were a MOTHER to remove...in fact, they did not ever come out. I pulled all the tricks - and the one we focused on first ended up breaking at the carb surface. SOOO - the carb swap progressed to an intake manifold removal too. This extended the install by adding several days as I had to take the manifold to a machinist to remove the other frozen bolt, rebuild the broken bolt side, and while he was at it drive a screw into the coolant port. I then ended up filling the coolant hole the rest of the way to make a level install surface with Quicksteel.
I am NOT a mechanic by trade, although I like to tinker obviously. This swap should be in a lot of folks' reach. My point: when I came to the point in this swap where I realized an intake manifold removal was required, I almost threw in the towel and gave up. HOWEVER, with all that stupid carb emissions crap out of the picture, working within the engine bay now is much, much less intimidating.
Here is a random picture on the gas input/EGR side:
http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z94/MrSamsonphotos/Progressoninstall.jpg
Here is a picture of the linkage side, final install:
http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z94/MrSamsonphotos/FinalCARB.jpg
NOTES: I read a suggestion on here that using the original carb cable to carb linkage was the suprior choice. I read that someone dremeled out the smaller hole of the original linkage to fit on the new carb throttle-bolt mount. This required a LOT of patience but in retrospect I agree THIS IS SUPERIOR. I mounted the return spring (that came with the kit) as pictured, and I find the return tension at the throttle via foot to be suffice with this setup and the provided spring in the kit.
I also realized that the plugged ports on the intake manifold require a fastener - of which I used hose clamps (which I dont really like and may change) - but my point is the swap is running pretty good now, but I had two limp-home experiences.
The first tweak I needed to make on install required me to plug the AS Valve tube with Quicksteel as apposed to the original high-temp tape. The tape was not suffice in totally blocking the pressure changes that occur in tandem with the high heat. The Quicksteel plug I have now I think puts this problem behind me. When this blew on the maiden voyage after swap it was a LOUD limp home (at 1233 AM, BTW!!!).
My other failure was that one of these plugs blew from the pressure exchange and heat - they just let go. Obviously this created a vacuum leak and I again managed to limp home.
Other challenge - My original wiring for the choke was NOT a 12V power source. I have now tweaked this with a varified 12V Key on power source and sure enough, the choke worked today!
Here is a final picture of the install outside from a small distance:
http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z94/MrSamsonphotos/FinalCARBmacro.jpg
Questions:
I am interested in installing a more comfortable front seat as the drivers seat I have is damaged and really pretty uncomfortable...any suggestions on a swap I might be interested/easy/and most important COMFORTABLE that I should be looking for? Lots of access to junk yards around here.
Also -
I used to have cruise control, but now the push-button activation light still goes on, and the dashboard 'ON' green cruise control indicator goes on - but it is not functioning...when I let off the foot, it just slowly started to decrease speed. I kept everything I removed so far - I think I removed some vacuum based 'actuator' cruise control items. Anyone familiar with the cruise control system look at my picture of the linkage side and could give me advice?
Fun project I highly recommend.
I am going to assume the MPG will be impacted - however this will remain my most economical vehicle to drive based on the 3 I currently own. You can also expect to drive differently as there is overall power increase but the BULK of the changes noticable to me are when that second port opens which seems to be at or around 75% toward WOT. Onramps for highways or interstates now is MUCH different with this acceleration. I would think that if you did not live in this section of the throttle and kept it pretty conservative - you would see good MPG.
At any rate, it is this area of the throttle spectrum where the car REALLY has woken up.
At any rate, fun stuff. After tweaking with the carb I am going to attempt emissions testing here just to see what happens but I have a gut feeling it is going to pass.
The car really seems to be able to breath now without restriction.
Thanks again for all the great info!
MrS.