Weber install success story - 32/36 + Questions

[MrSamson]

I have been having problems with my 1988 Honda Accord LX 5-speed relevant to fuel delivery for some time, and my choke system on the original carb was nonfunctional.

I bought this car for 400 bucks a couple of years ago...and today it is at 202K miles. It had significant paint failure with the clearcoat. It also had CV joint with a failed boot.

I repainted the exterior using the roller method.

I also replaced the damaged CV joint which went surprisingly well.

I decided to go with the 32/36 Weber. The locked How To thread on here is incredibly helpful but I needed more detailed info. Fortunately a simple search found suffice information to complete the install.

I cant believe how well this carb is performing based on a basic bolt on install - I have not tweaked with the adjustments as of this time and it is pretty amazing performance, but I do plan to tweak with these.

At any rate, I thank anyone on here that provided info. on this swap as I read a lot of threads and attained a pretty good understanding of how to complete the install based on everything I found on here.

At any rate - here is a picture of the engine bay as stock setup:

http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z94/MrSamsonphotos/HondaSTOCK.jpg

Here is a picture of all that garbage removed from engine bay...many folks on here talked about how good it felt to remove these things and I must say I concur:

http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z94/MrSamsonphotos/CARBGONE.jpg

NOTES: These two bolts at the back of the intake manifold (next to the coolant port that eventually gets plugged) were a MOTHER to remove...in fact, they did not ever come out. I pulled all the tricks - and the one we focused on first ended up breaking at the carb surface. SOOO - the carb swap progressed to an intake manifold removal too. This extended the install by adding several days as I had to take the manifold to a machinist to remove the other frozen bolt, rebuild the broken bolt side, and while he was at it drive a screw into the coolant port. I then ended up filling the coolant hole the rest of the way to make a level install surface with Quicksteel.

I am NOT a mechanic by trade, although I like to tinker obviously. This swap should be in a lot of folks' reach. My point: when I came to the point in this swap where I realized an intake manifold removal was required, I almost threw in the towel and gave up. HOWEVER, with all that stupid carb emissions crap out of the picture, working within the engine bay now is much, much less intimidating.

Here is a random picture on the gas input/EGR side:

http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z94/MrSamsonphotos/Progressoninstall.jpg

Here is a picture of the linkage side, final install:

http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z94/MrSamsonphotos/FinalCARB.jpg

NOTES: I read a suggestion on here that using the original carb cable to carb linkage was the suprior choice. I read that someone dremeled out the smaller hole of the original linkage to fit on the new carb throttle-bolt mount. This required a LOT of patience but in retrospect I agree THIS IS SUPERIOR. I mounted the return spring (that came with the kit) as pictured, and I find the return tension at the throttle via foot to be suffice with this setup and the provided spring in the kit.

I also realized that the plugged ports on the intake manifold require a fastener - of which I used hose clamps (which I dont really like and may change) - but my point is the swap is running pretty good now, but I had two limp-home experiences.

The first tweak I needed to make on install required me to plug the AS Valve tube with Quicksteel as apposed to the original high-temp tape. The tape was not suffice in totally blocking the pressure changes that occur in tandem with the high heat. The Quicksteel plug I have now I think puts this problem behind me. When this blew on the maiden voyage after swap it was a LOUD limp home (at 1233 AM, BTW!!!).

My other failure was that one of these plugs blew from the pressure exchange and heat - they just let go. Obviously this created a vacuum leak and I again managed to limp home.

Other challenge - My original wiring for the choke was NOT a 12V power source. I have now tweaked this with a varified 12V Key on power source and sure enough, the choke worked today!

Here is a final picture of the install outside from a small distance:

http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z94/MrSamsonphotos/FinalCARBmacro.jpg

Questions:

I am interested in installing a more comfortable front seat as the drivers seat I have is damaged and really pretty uncomfortable...any suggestions on a swap I might be interested/easy/and most important COMFORTABLE that I should be looking for? Lots of access to junk yards around here.

Also -

I used to have cruise control, but now the push-button activation light still goes on, and the dashboard 'ON' green cruise control indicator goes on - but it is not functioning...when I let off the foot, it just slowly started to decrease speed. I kept everything I removed so far - I think I removed some vacuum based 'actuator' cruise control items. Anyone familiar with the cruise control system look at my picture of the linkage side and could give me advice?

Fun project I highly recommend.

I am going to assume the MPG will be impacted - however this will remain my most economical vehicle to drive based on the 3 I currently own. You can also expect to drive differently as there is overall power increase but the BULK of the changes noticable to me are when that second port opens which seems to be at or around 75% toward WOT. Onramps for highways or interstates now is MUCH different with this acceleration. I would think that if you did not live in this section of the throttle and kept it pretty conservative - you would see good MPG.

At any rate, it is this area of the throttle spectrum where the car REALLY has woken up.

At any rate, fun stuff. After tweaking with the carb I am going to attempt emissions testing here just to see what happens but I have a gut feeling it is going to pass.

The car really seems to be able to breath now without restriction.

Thanks again for all the great info!

MrS.

[rocketman]

Nice job Samson! The Weber is really the way to go with an older (carb'd) 3gen . . . worked-out for me . . . . glad it worked for you. I changed mine at around 250k . . . now it has over 530k . . . never even spit one time since. Rocketman

[2oodoor]

congrats on the success and I commend you on your patience/!
It is a simple job if you pay attention and obviously you have.

I used a wine cork to plug up the air tube thing, seemed to work quite well and didn't look as tacky as some solutions could.

You can probably reset your base ignition timing with a little more advance now as well, then reset all the idle settings again for best idle. Not too much more, maybe 3 degrees or so depends on your area.

Taking the manifold off was a bear , always is unless you take off a little metal around the passenger side end of the flange to allow a socket to get in there.
I also, redid the PVC holder by scavenging the best part of the plastic part of the holder then used a heater by pass hose off a older model chrsyler 318 v8 to attach it to the oil separator. Works quite well.

[pink_sleeve]

What is that big grey and black looking thing with the cable running to it up in the front on the drivers side? My car def doesn't have whatever it is?

[MrSamson]

Pink-

Are you referring to the cruise control unit by chance? Mine might not be there for long either.

My choke stopped working again, then I realized the mechanic messed up again (me)...so THIS time I really fixed the wire to STAY connected.I am confident it will work tho.

roodoo- I am a little surprised the cork holds but that is a great fix. I found some Subaru seats at a junkyard yesterday that are black/grey that I might go back and pick up tomorrow to thro in. I also need to see an example and take pics of a cruise control unit still hooked up as I would like to try to get mine functioning again.

I also need to adjust timing. AT TIMES the car will diesel when turning off....timing might help with this I would think.

MrS.

[2oodoor]

If it is dieseling you need to make sure your choke fast idle cam is not hanging, as well, make sure your base throttle stop idle screw is not holding the throttle open too much. Back it off all the way and then set your idle air mixture to bring up the rpms and then screw in the base throttle stop setting to bring it up to what rpm you like it.
Using the crescent shape piece off the oem carb and oem cable barrel that goes with it, is the only way to acheive full throttle on these. In other words rarely will the Weber hardware allow you to have the throttle cable freely operate AND be able to acturally open the throttle on the carb full travel. You need that extra geometry you get with the oem piece to allow safer, bind free operation of the thottle cable, and to allow you to fully open it up with the gas pedal inside.

TO keep the choke electric heater to stay connected I use a female blade connector but I pinch it closed a little to make it fit tighter.
The factory circut should be 12 vdc, I would suspect something is wrong there in that circuit. Usually those go back to alternator field I believe, since using a regular protected circuit would be unreliable since the choke element is a direct short intentionally like a cigarette lighter but not quite as hot element. A cig lighter is not constant duty either like choke heater.