Weber choke HELP- not working and a mystery to me now

[MrSamson]

I recently installed a Weber 32/36 with electric choke.

My problem is that the choke does not appear to be functioning correctly.

I have checked, rechecked, and checked again with both a test lit and then a votimeter and at key on the choke is indeed getting 12V.

However, I do not believe it is working properly. The challenge too is that it is July and summertime (and warmer).

I have been trying to set the choke pre-ignition By cycling the throttle throu the full range. However consistently when I try to start it....it WILL start however not without having to work the throttle to keep it going....it dies otherwise when left to it's own devices.

Is there an adjustment I am missing or have not made yet?

Can this choke be adjusted?

Is there a way to check to see if the choke is in fact working via a visual check...perhaps with the air filter off or something and the key in the on position?

I have a pending tech support call in but had to leave a message....and I am hoping they call back.

At any rate I would really like to get this rectified whole still wiin 90 day warranty window and BEFORE cold weather is actually here and this becomes a mammoth pain.

Other then this....pretty amazing swap!

Thanks!

[turabaka]

Yes the choke can be adjusted. Loosen the three screws holding the choke onto the body of the carb and you can rotate the choke housing. Choke plates should be fully closed when the car is cold. Might take a bit of messing with to get it perfect, so you don't get the choke sticking on or not coming on at all.

Honestly I never did get it perfect, and had to constantly readjust so I just switched to a manual choke when I had my weber.

[2oodoor]

Electric Choke explained:

There is a bi metal coiled spring inside the black plastic cover. The spring is engineered to retract at a designated temperature (usually 60 degrees and less,usually) When the spring retracts, it pulls the choke butterfly closed for the most part (how much depends on the choke angle setting for the particular carb, not something you mess with much) but it only will close after you press the gas pedal down at least once which frees the linkage, This is called setting the choke.
When it has closed the linkage on the opposite side pulls up a fast idle cam that holds the throttle open slightly to achieve fast idle, or otherwise the car will flood out and not idle at all.
Ok, now the 12 volt wire is there to supply constant voltage to the coil,(INSULATED FROM GROUND BY DESIGN) which causes it to expand and thus releases the butterfly to open. As long as you have 12v to it, it will not enguage the choke butterfly to close under normal operation, only when cold.
Ok now note that it can take a minute or two for the voltage to warm up the coil enough to make it release the choke butterfly.

This should have been plug and play. Sometimes the little spring (can get lost or removed momentarlily) on the outside of the carb can let the fast idle linkage bind up or even bind the throttle linkage.

When you are setting your best idle, make sure the car is warmed up or at least the choke coil has released the butterfly so that the fast idle is not kicked up.

[TotaledTL]

Electric Choke explained: ...
Ok, now the 12 volt wire is there to supply constant voltage to the coil,(INSULATED FROM GROUND BY DESIGN)..

What exactly do you mean by this? Because only the + side of battery is connected to the choke? The carb is grounded through the manifold.

[2oodoor]

What exactly do you mean by this? Because only the + side of battery is connected to the choke? The carb is grounded through the manifold.

the positive wire going into the choke coil is isolated from ground by design. The ground would be the choke coil itself which is grounded thru the carb and base as you said.
IOW the wire doesnt go directly to ground. I was attempting to describe the choke coil as stand alone from it's housing of which it's isolated/mounted

thanks for poiinting that out to clear that part of the explanation up