seeking help on getting a/c running again.

[Convenienze]

alright, so im going to try to get my a/c working again.. the compressor is still working.
however the system is dry and empty.
im going to get the r134 connectors to convert it.
also possibly new o-rings for all of the hoses as the guy that had the car before me said it has a leak somewhere so ill change the rings to see if that will help.

now my main question here, is what all do i need to buy to recharge the system?

i know ill need like 3 cans of r134.
now, will i need to buy this "ester" oil stuff aswell?
i have no idea what anything is when it comes to a/c work.
a nice write up or instructions on how to recharge a totally dry system would be awesome :)

and as always help is MUCH appreciated.

[89HatchbackLxi]

alright, so im going to try to get my a/c working again.. the compressor is still working.
however the system is dry and empty.
im going to get the r134 connectors to convert it.
also possibly new o-rings for all of the hoses as the guy that had the car before me said it has a leak somewhere so ill change the rings to see if that will help.

now my main question here, is what all do i need to buy to recharge the system?

i know ill need like 3 cans of r134.
now, will i need to buy this "ester" oil stuff aswell?
i have no idea what anything is when it comes to a/c work.
a nice write up or instructions on how to recharge a totally dry system would be awesome :)

and as always help is MUCH appreciated.

I'm hoping someone can answer this because I'm looking to do the exact same thing you want to do. I'm sick of the summer heat.

[Convenienze]

yeah, the heat is killer here aswell. hate sitting in traffic after work and sticking to my clothes lol.
going to work isnt bad cause i leave in the night..

[rc00netzero]

Here is a start....

Special tools needed are:
R134 compatible guage set and can tap
Vacuum pump (tool loaner program at Autozone)
Quick read thermometer is also helpful
small bottle of pure mineral oil for o-rings (cosmetic section at walmart)
Assorted rubber stoppers (Lowes) to plug components when disconnected to keep out dirt & moisture.
A measuring cup or large syringe accurate to +-5cc


If your 3G has a Kein compressor: You will need to get a Denso compressor, brackets and in and out hoses from JY (NOTE rebuilt units usually do not have the "manifold" (parts where the hoses connect) so you need these from the yard even if you plan to get new/rebuilt Denso to replace your Kein.

If you have a Denso 10P15 compressor you will need:
Santech part no's MT2561 and MT0453 from Autozone

If you have a Denso 10PA15E you need:
Santech part no's MT2561 only (I think - mine was a 10P15)

I would also put in a new reciever/dryer.
Inspect and replace (or rebuild) any hoses that look damaged. If you cannot find replacements, there are places that will rebuild (reuse your original ends and put them on new hose of correct length)
Replace all the seals/o-rings on the Denso Comp. manifold - they are a common failure point.

[Convenienze]

alright, so what is the reason to convert the compressor? just wondering.

[Oldblueaccord]

High failure rate and its listed as not compatible with 134a.


wp

[Convenienze]

ah.. well, im sure its been asked 1 million times by now. but how do i tell which i have?

[Vanilla Sky]

The ND compressor is a much larger compressor. The Keihin has 3 service covers. I have a spare ND setup here that I'm willing to let go for a 4-pack of DFH 90 Minute IPA.

[Convenienze]

The ND compressor is a much larger compressor. The Keihin has 3 service covers. I have a spare ND setup here that I'm willing to let go for a 4-pack of DFH 90 Minute IPA.

never heard of it :lol:
what is it and where do i get it heh.

[nfs480]

I converted a Keihin to R134a about 4 years ago and it worked up until the coil shorted (about two years and unrelated to the conversion). Sometimes you just get lucky? So far 2 years and about 30,000 miles on a reman Keihin with 134a.

[nswst8]

No more than 22oz of R134a, use only 80% of required R12 charge. I use Dielectric grease to lube the o-rings. Denatured alcohol (Home depot/Lowes) to clean out the lines.

*Do not use pag46 unless you completely remove all traces of mineral oil in the system.*

[Convenienze]

well.. ive decided im not even going to touch any of the a/c stuff myself.. id rther have someone else do it that knows what they re doing.. so i dont waste money

[gp02a0083]

i recently did the compressor conversion on my 89 lxi

you will need the following:

High pressure line
Low pressure line
A/C bracket (i believe with 6 bolts and belt tightener)
Denso manifold (the Keinhin manifold will not work)
Model /type # off the old compressor to match the manifold with a new compressor
New O-rings
New Drier (can be purchased from rockauto, but does not have sight glass)
Connector plug off of the old compressor (many re-manufactured compressors just have a spade connection)


Follow the instructions regarding charge capacity and oil selection and make sure to put the system on a vac pump to evacuate the system for 30 min to an hour, this will prevent ice over from water moisture. You should need 2 12 oz cans of R-134 and a few fl oz of oil.

The Keinhin compressor is easy to ID, it almost looks like a mini V-twin engine, the Denso is a cylinder shape, however there were 2 different Denso models. Both will fit the Denso bracket and have the same 4 groove pulley/clutch assembly. The body of the one denso is slightly larger than the other.

Also as another note when converting the system over, inspect the block ends on the high/low pressure lines, there will be a guide pin. this is used as a "key" to place the block end properly and this pin can become seized on either end. If this does happen just shave the pin down with a dremel and use a small drill bit to remove the rest of the pin.

[Dr_Snooz]

well.. ive decided im not even going to touch any of the a/c stuff myself.. id rther have someone else do it that knows what they re doing.. so i dont waste money

I think you're wise. I'm all for learning to fix your own stuff, but converting your A/C is pretty advanced. It's especially difficult if you aren't already well versed in basics like how to vacuum down a system and charge it with freon. If you don't know what you're doing, you can seriously hurt yourself. You should learn how to do A/C, but start by having someone experienced show you how to charge the system without killing yourself. Then work up from there.

Good luck.

[nswst8]

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Basic Charging Procedures
REFRIGERANT CHARGING PROCEDURE IN AUTOMOTIVE A/C SYSTEMS

We recommend reading this procedure completely before charging. You may need information before charging you want to keep handy. Have this procedure with you while charging. Although it can be done by a single person, we recommend having a helper around.

This procedure outlines the steps to perform a complete charge. These steps are not to be used to refill or make partial charges. Toping off requires system parameters monitoring and knowledge, specially in R134a-based system. Excessive gas will harm your system and will keep it from cooling properly. MORE REFRIGERANT DOES NOT MEAN COLDER TEMPERATURES

CHARGING IN GAS OR LIQUID - Please read step 10

Do not use the sightglass (if so equipped) in R134a-based systems as if were R-12 based.

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT REQUIRED

1) Vacuum pump

2) Gauges (R12 or R134a)

3) Service port adapter (as required in most R12-based systems) R134a systems do not require adapters other than the couplers in your gauges in the majority of applications

4) Refrigerant gas (R12 or R134a)

5) Optional: 2-3 ounces of specified oil.

**************

1. Make sure what is the required amount of gas. From factory, all systems have a decal under the hood that give the data. If the decal is missing or you are not sure, please specify make, model, and the type of refrigerant used and whether your system is a factory or an after market unit here. It is very important to know if your system has oil. Oil starvation is the main reason of compressor failure. Oil can be added to the system in two ways: with oil injectors or through the low side port under vacuum. The procedure to add oil through vacuum is described here. Some refrigerant charge and other useful specifications are provided here.

2. Connect both blue and red gauge hoses to the system's service ports. The discharge port (red hose) is located somewhere between the compressor and expansion device, either before the condenser or after it. In R134a systems, the port is the thicker of both, while in R12 systems is the thinner one. In some aftermarket systems, the port is located in the back of the compressor. If your ports are located in the compressor, the low side is marked by an "S" and the high side by an "H". Port caps have an "L" for low or "H" for high.

3. Open both gauge valves. Connect the common hose (yellow one) to the vacuum pump. Make sure both gauge needles are zeroed down. Needle is adjusted by turning a fine screw inside the dial. You must remove the plastic lens to do this.

4. Turn the pump on. You'll notice that both gauge readings begin to drop. The blue gauge's needle will even dip into negative values. The desired low side reading should be less than -25, while the high side will remain at 0.

5. After approximately 5 minutes, close both gauge valves. Turn the pump off, and observe the needles. Any movement will indicate vacuum loss. The faster the movement, the greater the loss. If after two minutes you don't see any needle movement, open both valves, turn the pump on, and continue vacuum for not less than 30 minutes. Close both valves then turn the pump off.

6. Get ready to charge. Have the necessary refrigerant amount handy. Cans make charging easier and more precise unless you have a charging cylinder or a precision scale.

7. Disconnect the yellow hose from the vacuum pump and connect it to the can tap or charging cylinder valve. You can charge in two ways: liquid (can upside down) or gas. Liquid charging is a lot faster but not recommended unless you extreme care or have experience. Traditional (gas) charging is slower but safer.

8. Once you've decided, and with the can or container connected, unscrew the top yellow hose connection (at the gauges) allowing refrigerant to escape for a couple of seconds. This will purge the air out of the hoses so you make sure that all you dispense is refrigerant. You can do this venting in liquid form so you can see when a fine, steady stream of refrigerant escapes indicating that all the air is gone from the hose. Don't breathe refrigerant and don't charge in a flammable environment.

9. "Flood" the system with liquid refrigerant (can upside down) by opening the red valve (high side) until it won't take anymore. Close the red valve. Jump the low pressure cycling switch (if so equipped). If you don't know what this is or where it is, ask for help here.

10. Turn the engine on. Turn the A/C into MAX on its third or higher blower speed. You'll note that both gauge readings are now positive. The red gauge should read between 100 and 150, while the blue gauge between 5 and 15. If you are charging with cans, don't forget to purge air out the hose after hooking a new can as described in step 8 above. Now, charge will continue through the low (blue) side (see note below) . If you haven't jumpered any switch (you don't have to), you'll notice the compressor cycling frequently on and off. That is normal. The cycling will disappear as you dispense more refrigerant. The only disadvantage of frequent compressor cycling is that charge will take longer. Needles will move up and down with every cycle. This is normal. Do not jump any switch unless you are absolutely certain!.

WARNING: DANGER

NEVER OPEN THE RED VALVE WHILE CHARGING. The red valve is to be opened only during pre-charge, vacuum, or when a system is evacuated. Its function is keeping an eye on the high side only. It must be closed at all times. If you have any doubts, wait until you receive information. Severe injury or death may occur. Remember: ALWAYS wear safety goggles. NEVER charge your system in a closed environment.

GAS OR LIQUID CHARGING?

There are two ways to charge: gas (can or cylinder up), or liquid (can or cylinder upside down). A compressor is designed to compress gas. Direct liquid charge will harm the compressor if suction pressure is not controlled. Liquid charging is faster, yet is riskier. Liquid charging should be made by professionals or under supervision. Liquid charging can be done if the suction port is away from the compressor (some compressors have the suction valve in its body).

Liquid charging can be done never exceeding a 50 PSI suction pressure. If you can't control it, charge in gas form. In cooler weather, cans may freeze. You may immerse them in water and shake them while charging.

11. Once about 2/3 of the charge has been dispensed into the system, spray water in the condenser to optimize heat exchange and speed the process. When you get the condenser wet, vent temperature is likely to raise. This is normal. You'll also note pressure drop in both gauges.

12. Once the specified amount has been dispensed, close the blue valve. Let the system run for a minute. Turn the A/C off and then the engine. Wait another minute and disconnect the couplers from the service ports. Disconnect the low side first. If you jumpered a switch, reconnect it too.

Optimum cooling performance is attained after 10 minutes of operation. Our own acceptance criteria is at least 50°F in the center vent to the driver side at idle after 10 minutes or less. Remember: cooling increases while the vehicle is in motion.

VERY IMPORTANT

Due to the physical properties and chemical composition, R134a and R12 charging amounts are different. Never, if you are retrofitting, charge the same or specified amount of R12 with R134a. If in doubt, please e-mail us here. Do not use this procedure if you are using any other refrigerant. This is just for R12 or R134a. Although procedures and parameters may be similar, we do not use nor recommend alternative refrigerants.

HOW TO DETERMINE OPERATING PRESSURES

Every vehicle has its own operation parameters specification. Depending on whether or not the vehicle has a factory or an after market system, and whether it was retrofitted or is still original, among others. There is no established calculation to determine the exact operating pressures.

The low pressure (blue gauge) should be 35 or less at idle, regardless of the type of gas. Only if you're running a dual system, the low pressure may be between 45 and 50 at idle.

The high pressure, for starters, is directly related to ambient temperature: the higher the temperature, the higher the higher the pressure.

Bear in mind that dispensing a complete charge without lowering the pressures with water will result in higher readings. This is normal, and that is why you should spray water in the condenser at 2/3rds of the charge or once you have completed it. You'll note an immediate pressure drop when you spray water in the condenser.

To obtain a ballpark high side value, multiply ambient temperature by 2.2 if you have an R12 system. If you have a factory R134a system, use 2.3. To convert °C to °F, use this formula: °C X 1.8 + 32.

Remember: this is only a ballpark. If in doubt, we have factory charts to help you determine the correct pressures. Please have your vehicle's make, model, refrigerant type, and year and click here.

Factors like a an obstructed or very dirty radiator and condenser, weak or inoperative fan clutch, weak or inoperative radiator fan(s), either electric or mechanical, will make pressures go up and impair cooling, even in mild days.
__________________

[Convenienze]

im going to try to get a picture of my compressor and post it.. maybe yall can help identify it xD.

ill go get a picture now, but its 2 am.. so idk how good the flash will light it up. ill try though

[Convenienze]

here are the pics i got of it.
maybe someone with the experience of seeing them knows which it is with the minimal view in my pics.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d21/DkF-killage/SL730291.jpg
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d21/DkF-killage/SL730292.jpg

[nswst8]

It's a Denso compressor.

[nswst8]

If you know how to jump the low pressure switch to see if the compressor will engage. You might have a functioning system that just needs to be serviced.

[Convenienze]

well, i am glad to hear that its a denso less money to spend.

ive put a hot lead to the compressor and it engages.

the guy that had the car before me, said that the a/c works if charged but it had a leak.

now, if i bring this to an a/c place will they find and fix the leak? ( if there is one.. )

[gp02a0083]

your in good standing being that you have a denso compressor, the typical problem with the kiehnin compressors is that they leak from the front seal. Any reputable shop should be able to find the leak with UV dye. Usually its an o-ring or seal that leaks, on rare occasions do the hard lines actually leak.

[Convenienze]

good to hear.

also just around the block from me there is a shop, he does ac work.. i stopped in to ask him how much it would be to do all the work, you know vaccuming it.. checking for leaks.. fixing them etc.. he said about 150 for everything.
and just a basic look over, or w/e is like 35. i will have to look at a few places, and then go between each saying what other people will get it done for.. so i can try to get it cheaper from someone..

[nswst8]

Use this as a learning experience, swap the O-rings yourself and save the headache of repeat visits to the a/c shop.

The only one that you will not be able to access w/o removing the evaporator if the TXV o-rings. Pulliing the evap only takes about 20 minutes. Then take it to the shop for a evacuation and charge.

The shop will only identify the immediate leak and repair it. This creates another risk of the already aged o-rings to blow.

Especially since you will have to use the higher pressures of R134a.

Replacing all the o-rings will only take you about 1-2 hours. I can do all of them in about an hour, give or take 15 minutes.

[Convenienze]

sounds good. uh.. where is the evaporator in these? and sorry for sounding clueless, but what size orings do i need to purchase to replace them.

just wanna make sure everything will be good and not mess something up :)
im greatly inclined on working on just about everything except a/c lol.

[nswst8]

3/8", 1/2", 5/8" should cover these. You should be able to buy a 270 piece o-ring set for about $20 dollars.

Your only replacing o-rings, easy day.

The Evap is under the dash, passenger side behind the glove box. Leave these alone unless you want to replace them. This will also give you the opportunity to clean the evap housing. If you don't replace these and it leaks and you can't locate the leak in the engine compartment then you will know where it is leaking from.

[Convenienze]

ah. do i have to remove the dash to change those? or can i just take the glove box out and change it from there?

[2drSE-i]

If you look under the glovebox, remove that small trim piece below it. 4 screws, one of which is in the door jamb (Meaning stubby screwdriver.) Once thats out, you can remove the glovebox, and then the glovebox support. What you will be looking at is two black boxes, connected by a large, square hose clamp. Loosen the hose clamp, slide it to the right.

You will see these small, black C clamps going all the way around the black box. Slide a wide bladed screwdriver behind these clips, twist the screwdriver and they will pop right off. They do, however, go all the way behind this black box, and there is like 20 of them (Ok, 10, but it seems like twenty lol) Work carefully, move things out of they way, and you should be able to remove the lower portion of the box.

What you will see is the evaporator and expansion valve. My personal recommendation is to replace the expansion valve while you are at it. You have to remove it anyway to replace the orings, and its just another part that could have failed. At < $20 you can't go wrong.

Put it all back together, throw away the extra C-clamps (i had about 6 that I didnt bother putting back on lol) and enjoy your A/C when you get it working again!

[Convenienze]

thanks for all the help. it will still be a couple weeks or so before i get into doing it. because i wanna have some cash saved before i blow a good amount on fixing a/c. well, i might go ahead and do the rings and buy the 134 converter fittings. but the rest maybe in well maybe even a week.. idk lol.

[Convenienze]

i went to autozone and bought an o-ring kit for a/c.
was $5 for like 30 piece set or something. it should be fine for everything i need.
i also purchased a retrofit kit for 134. like $15. yes i realize i could have bought one from ebay for like $4 but i didnt feel like waiting for it to ship heh.
ill start changing those either tomorrow after work, or sunday after work.

[Dr_Snooz]

Do you have an overall plan in mind here? If you are converting the system, I'm not sure how what you have is going to help you. Normally, you would change the orings as you flush the system. If you replace them beforehand, most of them will be discarded when the system is flushed. New oil would also be added after a thorough flush. Conversion fittings would be installed at the end of the process when you are ready to fill with the new freon. Some stickers that notify future techs of the conversion would be the last thing to go on. Just popping adapters on might lead to confusion at the shop when you finally take it in.

If you just want to do some piddling around, go for it, but I don't think you're going to contribute in any meaningful way to this process if you intend to have a shop bat cleanup.

Just my two cents obviously.

[rc00netzero]

Now That we know you have a Nippondenso(Denso) compressor there is one more thing to check. Look at the compressor where the lines bolt (each line has one bolt) to the square block on the side of the compressor. This block is the compressor manifold. There will be either 3 or 4 allen (hex socket head) bolts. If memory serves (correct me if I am wrong guys) - three bolts (one corner has no bolt or hole) = model 10P15, while four bolts (one in each corner) = model 10PA15E. If you have a 10P15 - plan on getting the special O-ring kit (or equvilant) I mentioned in my previous post - because a very likely leak point is the manifold itself. The 10P15's are notorious for blowing the manifold O-rings - I assume at least partly due to the uneven pressure from the asymetric bolt spacing.

Unfortunately I cannot see one corner of your manifold in the pics, or I would be sure which model you have.

[rc00netzero]

BTY the are a few good things about working on the AC on these cars: The compressor is not to hard to access, and it has a seperate belt. This makes it easy to completely remove the compressor for service without putting the car out of action. Just be sure to plug the lines!

[Convenienze]

hm.. well i guess i wont need to swap the o-rings in the lines and stuff?
will the shop fully convert it and change rings and everything and i can just take the stuff i bought back?

[nswst8]

Unless you tell the shop to change all o-rings, they will only find the immediate leak and fix that. But with the age of these cars it is a sure bet that you will have to change all the o-rings since you are going to be using R134a. The pressures are significantly higher.

Again I am encouraging you to replace the rings yourself. It is a real simple process. 2 adjustable wrenches, o-rings and some di-electric grease.

The shop can flush it if you are not comfortable flushing the lines. Compressed air is a must for flushing.

[Convenienze]

alright.. well what is involved in the flushing? just blowing out the lines with air? or does it need some sort of liquid..

i have a compressor.

but need alot of explanation on what exactly to do with all of this a/c stuff... i have no idea...

[nswst8]

Denatured alcohol (Home depot/lowes)

[nswst8]

Easiest line to do is the low pressure line (suction line) Disconnect the lines, find a matching o-ring lube with di-electric grease (lightly) reconnect hose.

To flush pour alittle denatured alcohol in the line, let sit 45-60 seconds and blow out with compressed air. If you have a flexible inline brush you can use this to clean the inside of the line.

Evap will take some patience if not removing.

Condenser pour in at highest point and follow with compressed air.

Use compressed air until all debri and denatured alcohol are gone.

*Do not flush the "drier/filter" located in front driverside wheel well* This should be replace by the shop.

Flushing will remove all oil, that will need to be replaced by the shop (recommended) these systems take about 5.8 ounces of oil.

Youtube will have some videos on o-ring replacement, flushing and oil replacement.

[Convenienze]

progress has been made.
just a little though.

i have the 10PA15E with 4 bolts.

and i decided to put a little 134a in it just to see if the compressor works for sure, it does work.

and i found out where my leak is.
my condenser has a hole in it somewhere, you can hear the 134 leaking out of it. so it will not build pressure.
but you can tell that its trying to blow colder air so im sure that its gonna be all good.

i am going to hit the jy. and yank one. then try it, if it leaks ill return it and pull another till i get a good one.

then im going to flush it and change the immediate o-rings.
and i know someone that can borrow a vacuum, so we will do that too.
then ill try to charge it and see how she goes.

[Vanilla Sky]

I have a spare or two I'd give you. They're destined for scrap otherwise.

[Convenienze]

I have a spare or two I'd give you. They're destined for scrap otherwise.

that sounds great acctually.
you have anything going on tomorrow?
i might be able to head out there im off of work.
but in the morning i have to spend a few hours at court for some jury duty crap.. lol

[Vanilla Sky]

We're supposed to go to the spring tomorrow, but that depends on the weather. After we're home, I'm doing nothing that I know of. I have a condenser here at my place and a couple at my parents' place.

Let me send you my cell number so you can text me when you are ready to head this way.

[Convenienze]

Cool. gonna see what time it is when i leave the court house, then go home and change clothes and text you to see if you are available.

[nswst8]

Good to hear, just remember no more than 22 oz of R134a. 5.8 oz of ester oil if you have done a complete flush. Use a new receiver/drier

[Convenienze]

well, thanks to vanilla, i have a new condenser. :) thanks again.

now, untill i manage to get it fully done, i stuck a can of 134 in it just for kicks and giggles.
well the a/c blows cold and it works great. ( its just a test run )

now, what will happen if i dont flush it and just leave it in there as it is?

what i did was hook up the 134 and open the valve so it can go into the lines.
then pushed the high side valve open so the air can purge from the lines..

[nswst8]

If you did not pull a vacuum on the system before adding the R134a, you'll probably corrode the system if not blow your compressor as well.

*STOP* trying to short cut the process. We are trying to assist you, yet all you will be doing is screwing up your a/c system!

1) You don't know how long it's been since system started to leak, result Receiver/drier desicant is at greater risk of deploying into the system "BLACK DEATH"

2) Air in the system (acts like acid) will further deterioate your seals, metal parts.

3) You are screwing yourself, Can I make it anymore "SIMPLE"

[Convenienze]

yeah i understand.
well its like i said, it is / was just to test stuff out.
im going to get it done right.
just have to get ahold of the stuff from the person.

[Vanilla Sky]

Before you vacuum it down, replace the accumulator/drier. That serves as both the filter for any crap in the system, and it absorbs moisture should it ever need to. They're about $80 new, but they're required to be replaced to maintain warranty on a new AC compressor for a reason.

Oh, and I'm glad that you have the AC running now. It totally makes that trip up here worth it.

[Convenienze]

yeah it was worth it.
and ill look into a new accumulator. and was planning on a drier.
hopefully soon ill be able to get that vacuum. and ill do the flush at that time.

[nswst8]

Receiver/drier $30 Autozone. Florida is a high humidity state, I lived in Jacksonville for 15 years and converted to R134a there as well. I know what you will encounter converting your system.

If you do not know how long your system has been open, then you should assume that the desicant bag is saturated. That puts it at higher risk of coming apart and deploying through out your system, also known as "BLACK DEATH" This situation creates high dollars repairs.

But if you want to throw the dice and play it like a crap shoot. It's your car.

I have had my 89 since 1992 and never has it been without a/c, it was converted to R134a in 1997 and then converted back to R12 in 2007. I now have a secord 89 and it is cooling with R12 as well.

[Dr_Snooz]

If you did not pull a vacuum on the system before adding the R134a, you'll probably corrode the system if not blow your compressor as well.

*STOP* trying to short cut the process. We are trying to assist you, yet all you will be doing is screwing up your a/c system!

1) You don't know how long it's been since system started to leak, result Receiver/drier desicant is at greater risk of deploying into the system "BLACK DEATH"

2) Air in the system (acts like acid) will further deterioate your seals, metal parts.

3) You are screwing yourself, Can I make it anymore "SIMPLE"

Blame yourself, Phil. You are the one encouraging people to take on repairs they aren't comfortable performing.

I'll continue banging the drum I've been banging from post #1. If you don't know what you are doing when it comes to A/C, you can make a real mess. Please leave this to the professionals. If you have a friend or forum member who is knowledgeable in A/C and wants to help you out, that's great. Go for it. Otherwise, leave it alone.

[nswst8]

These a/c systems are childs play, yet if they want to continue to shortcut the process.

Then it's back to the school of hard knocks.

Just trying to help.

[Convenienze]

i know you are trying to help, and i appreciate what you've helped with.
just chill a little.. im not trying to just shortcut it and kill my system.
i wanted to test it out, because why would i wanna pay for all that stuff, and have a not working system?

[nswst8]

Good luck.