Wheel bearing puller tool

[-$MOKIN-]

I have taking my spindle off many of times and always just went and had the wheel bearing pressed at a shop. Does anyone know if there is a tool i can rent and just do it myself?

[lostforawhile]

I have taking my spindle off many of times and always just went and had the wheel bearing pressed at a shop. Does anyone know if there is a tool i can rent and just do it myself?
no they need to be done off of the car with a press, it can be a real pain in the ass. don't forget to remove the big circlip before you try to press out the bearing

[-$MOKIN-]

Thanks lost...any other way i can do my lug nut studs with out pressing the bearing out?

[lostforawhile]

Thanks lost...any other way i can do my lug nut studs with out pressing the bearing out?i've heard of people grinding a a little bit on the back d of the stud so they slipped in place, they even make some like that already done

[-$MOKIN-]

Damn ive been looking and looking and stll couldnt find the notched ones.. would save me a hella of alot of time and money

[lostforawhile]

autozone used to carry them

[Dr_Snooz]

I was going to do the notch trick, but I couldn't see any way to make it work without buggering up the rotor dust shield. I have a stud that galled on me and is now a little shorter than the rest. I guess it will stay that way until I have a reason to pull the knuckle. Then all studs and wheel bearing will get changed together.

The answer to your question, though, is that you don't need a shop to press out the wheel bearing. Doing it yourself is easy, fast and gives better results. You still have to pull the knuckle, but once it's out, you can use either a drift punch or a large socket to remove and seat bearings. Harbor Freight sells this set (http://www.harborfreight.com/21-piece-metric-3-4-quarter-inch-heavy-duty-socket-set-5494.html)of large sockets.

http://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/370x/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_1437.jpg

I use them with a 4# sledge hammer to beat out old bearings and to set new bearings. Be sure to grease up the new bearing and the housing to make the new bearing slide in even easier.

I've also used a simple drift punch with a light hammer to do the job.

http://www.ted-kyte.com/3D/Pictures/Drift%20Punch.jpg

You just tap lightly on one side of the bearing, then on the opposite side and slowly walk it out of the housing. As you do it, you will develop a "feel" for where the bearing is binding up and how to hit it.

[lostforawhile]

I was going to do the notch trick, but I couldn't see any way to make it work without buggering up the rotor dust shield. I have a stud that galled on me and is now a little shorter than the rest. I guess it will stay that way until I have a reason to pull the knuckle. Then all studs and wheel bearing will get changed together.

The answer to your question, though, is that you don't need a shop to press out the wheel bearing. Doing it yourself is easy, fast and gives better results. You still have to pull the knuckle, but once it's out, you can use either a drift punch or a large socket to remove and seat bearings. Harbor Freight sells this set (http://www.harborfreight.com/21-piece-metric-3-4-quarter-inch-heavy-duty-socket-set-5494.html)of large sockets.

http://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/370x/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_1437.jpg

I use them with a 4# sledge hammer to beat out old bearings and to set new bearings. Be sure to grease up the new bearing and the housing to make the new bearing slide in even easier.

I've also used a simple drift punch with a light hammer to do the job.

http://www.ted-kyte.com/3D/Pictures/Drift%20Punch.jpg

You just tap lightly on one side of the bearing, then on the opposite side and slowly walk it out of the housing. As you do it, you will develop a "feel" for where the bearing is binding up and how to hit it.
good luck, I had trouble getting mine out with a 20 ton press, the old bearings finally ended up with bars welded to them on the press table, when they came out they came out like a shot, many times the heat and cold cycles over a couple of hundred thousand miles will cold weld them to the knuckle

[-$MOKIN-]

Ahh Im trying to keep these bearings that are on this knuckle ..I just grabbed them off of a parts car from the JY for that reason..with good lower ball joints too. Im affarid to hit it and break the bearing

[lostforawhile]

Ahh Im trying to keep these bearings that are on this knuckle ..I just grabbed them off of a parts car from the JY for that reason..with good lower ball joints too. Im affarid to hit it and break the bearing
if you try to remove the knuckle and leave the bearing,there's a good chance you are going to damage the bearing in the process, you may not notice it at first but it will fail soon after. just get a new set of bearings. it takes lot of load to press the hub out,thats all sideload on the wheel bearing

[-$MOKIN-]

i wanna find some of those notched studs or notch them myself....I did replace the hub and bearing before and they didnt last but a couple years..And its so mouch more that just 20 bucks for the studs .

[lostforawhile]

i wanna find some of those notched studs or notch them myself....I did replace the hub and bearing before and they didnt last but a couple years..And its so mouch more that just 20 bucks for the studs .

get the ARP studs, cheap insurance and much stronger then factory , plus the end is tapered to prevent cross threading

[dieselgus]

My 22 year old wheel bearings didn't want to come out easily at all. Tried all the tricks once the press at work puched out the inner races only. Ended up having to use a cut off wheel to score the bearing outer race in a vew places and then a chisel and large hammer to break it outta there. Definately not the easiest set of front bearings I have ever done. After an hour of screwing around on them and replacing the bearings finally, I was wishing I spent a little more for new bearing loaded hubs (for not that much more than the bearings themselves).

It is another option.

[Dr_Snooz]

Hitting a pothole at 70 is going to be far more load than tapping the bearing with a 4# sledge. I had a bearing that a 100 ton press wouldn't budge. Ended up beating it out with my hammer. I've beat out bearings and put them back in without issue so far. Just keep them clean while they are out. That was on the 4g and I had put new bearings in not many miles ago and didn't want to spend the $200+ or so to replace them again. If you're going to go to all the work of removing the knuckle, you might as well replace them, but you don't technically have to. Replace the bearing seals too.

[Jeffrey803]

You can make your own press out of a piece of threaded rod and 2 nuts and washers. best to mount the spindle in a vice.then just use the threaded rod with washers and nuts and press out by turning the nut,and press the new one in by reversing the threaded rod

Use a piece of exhaust tubing bigger then the bearing,and a washer about the same size.this will RECIEVE the bearing,reverse the exhaust tubing and threaded rod to RECIEVE the new bearing.

I just replaced my driver's side in May with a new hub and bearing,from AZ. 60.00 priced just the bearing at 37.00. came with new hub,bearing,new studs.not that hard,and didn't have to pay to have them pressed out and pressed in.Take your time,don't be in a hurry.to get the old bearing out do what ever it takes to remove it from the spindle,I had to grind and hit it with a chisel to break it like the previous poster stated.

After I had it out I just used the threaded rod to press the new hub into the spindle.don't try to do this job if you do not have a vice to hold the spindle for you,it will just fight you until you give up.

Good Luck,worked for me.

[-$MOKIN-]

took them to the shop and had them do it.........:(

[Jeffrey803]

should have only cost ya 20.00 or so,if all they did was press out the old and pressed in the new.

[Dr_Snooz]

You can make your own press out of a piece of threaded rod and 2 nuts and washers. best to mount the spindle in a vice.then just use the threaded rod with washers and nuts and press out by turning the nut,and press the new one in by reversing the threaded rod

Use a piece of exhaust tubing bigger then the bearing,and a washer about the same size.this will RECIEVE the bearing,reverse the exhaust tubing and threaded rod to RECIEVE the new bearing.

I just replaced my driver's side in May with a new hub and bearing,from AZ. 60.00 priced just the bearing at 37.00. came with new hub,bearing,new studs.not that hard,and didn't have to pay to have them pressed out and pressed in.Take your time,don't be in a hurry.to get the old bearing out do what ever it takes to remove it from the spindle,I had to grind and hit it with a chisel to break it like the previous poster stated.

After I had it out I just used the threaded rod to press the new hub into the spindle.don't try to do this job if you do not have a vice to hold the spindle for you,it will just fight you until you give up.

Good Luck,worked for me.

Can you post a pic of your tool? Sounds like a good idea.

[Jeffrey803]

Can you post a pic of your tool? Sounds like a good idea.


All you need is a piece of threaded rod that is long enough to go from one side of the spindle to the other. a exhaust adaptor the same size as the bearing can be had at any autoparts store for cheap,5.00 or so,some washers,a nut on each side,here's the secret,thread a nut on one side of the threaded rod just until it is flush with the threads and drill a 1/8" hole through the nut and threaded rod so it can't turn on you,use a cotter pin or roll pin to hold the nut. the other side of the threaded rod will be your PRESS,with the exhaust adaptor and a washer the same size as the part being pressed,put your nut on,mount the spindle in a vice and use a 1/2" breaker bar or rachet and crank out your old bearing,reverse the threaded rod to install your new,if the new bearing is hard to CRANK,carefully tap the bearing to take the load off of the bearing,crank in some more,tap,crank,tap,crank til it bottoms out.that's it.

The washer needs to be the same size as your threaded rod,so it don't fall through the exhaust adaptor,your exhaust adaptor,washer,nut and threaded rod are your press.

When I get a chance and some time I will post a pic of what I made,everything can be had really cheap,I just used what I had laying around.the hardest time consuming for me was locating the right size washers to match up with the adaptor and fit the threaded rod.

Also with the spindle mounted in the vice,the threaded rod will be pointed UP.

I was going to buy a harbor freight floor press,they can be had for 79.00 on sale,until I came up with the threaded rod idea.

[Jeffrey803]

Got to thinking about what I posted and went to look at my threaded rod.
I believe you will need a exhaust adaptor BIGGGER than the bearing to RECEIVE the bearing,and an exhaust adaptor the SAME size as the bearing to press it OUT.or just use washers the same size as the bearing to press it OUT.

Reverse the threaded rod to install. What's nice about the exhaust adaptor is you can buy them where one side is slightly bigger on one end to press out the bearing and slightly smaller on the other end to press in the bearing.(same size as bearing).as for sizes of adaptors, you will need to measure your bearing and buy an adaptor that suits your needs.

I also had a problem where when I was cranking my washers would bend.so fit anything in there so that won't happen. A piece of 1/4" plate or anything the same size as the bearing.

the longer the threaded rod the better.then you can just about press anything out.

[Dr_Snooz]

All you need is a piece of threaded rod that is long enough to go from one side of the spindle to the other. a exhaust adaptor the same size as the bearing can be had at any autoparts store for cheap,5.00 or so,some washers,a nut on each side,here's the secret,thread a nut on one side of the threaded rod just until it is flush with the threads and drill a 1/8" hole through the nut and threaded rod so it can't turn on you,use a cotter pin or roll pin to hold the nut. the other side of the threaded rod will be your PRESS,with the exhaust adaptor and a washer the same size as the part being pressed,put your nut on,mount the spindle in a vice and use a 1/2" breaker bar or rachet and crank out your old bearing,reverse the threaded rod to install your new,if the new bearing is hard to CRANK,carefully tap the bearing to take the load off of the bearing,crank in some more,tap,crank,tap,crank til it bottoms out.that's it.

The washer needs to be the same size as your threaded rod,so it don't fall through the exhaust adaptor,your exhaust adaptor,washer,nut and threaded rod are your press.

When I get a chance and some time I will post a pic of what I made,everything can be had really cheap,I just used what I had laying around.the hardest time consuming for me was locating the right size washers to match up with the adaptor and fit the threaded rod.

Also with the spindle mounted in the vice,the threaded rod will be pointed UP.

I was going to buy a harbor freight floor press,they can be had for 79.00 on sale,until I came up with the threaded rod idea.

So, that's a 'no' then?

[Jeffrey803]

here ya go

[Jeffrey803]

How do I post a pic?

[Jeffrey803]

it tells me I may not post attachments,don't know how else to get the pic up.

[lostforawhile]

How do I post a pic?

sign up for something like photobucket, thats what most here use, it's free, upload your picture and paste the img tag of the picture in your post

[Jeffrey803]

Ok,thanks