89 LXi... pissing me off

[RLong31]

Ok, my 89 LXi w/ automatic transmission is really getting on my nerves. I need some help, kinda having multiple symptoms so it's hard to narrow down.

Let me first list all the repairs I've done to it, to help you guys help me.

1. coolant flush
2. new plugs/wires/cap/rotor
3. timing belt
4. water pump
5. oil pump seals
6. timing belt tensioner
7. camshaft seal
8. crankshaft seal
9. distributor o-ring
10. new rack and pinion
11. new driver's side cv axle
12. new ball joints in front... upper and lower
13. new tie rod ends and inner tie rods
14. oil change
15. new air filter
16. new fast idle thermo valve
17. new pcv valve
18. cleaned IAC valve
19. new brake master cylinder
20. new valve cover gasket
21. new coolant temperature sensor (on thermostat housing)
22. adjusted valves
23. adjusted timing (may still be off)
24. changed fuel filter
25. got a/c re-charged

Ok... here is what is irritating.. the gas mileage and the constant vibration and lack of balls.

I set the timing, drove up to LA... first tank of gas... I got 25.5 mpgs. Second tank of gas... I got about 23.5 mpgs. Third tank of gas... I got about 21.5 mpgs.

I checked the timing.. and it seemed to be about 2 degrees off from where I set it before the trip to LA.
This is when I decided to adjust the valves... I followed the instructions per the manual, didn't really notice any difference... except hearing some rattle.. I'm guessing that could just be the exhaust rattling.. I don't know.


I reset the timing again, this is also when I replaced the coolant temp sensor because of the flashing 6 times under the seat.... that's gone now, no more flashing... I just burned through a half a tank of gas in about 80 miles... I'm guessing that puts me about 15mpgs or worse... not sure. Just seems to be running rough and has absolutely no balls on take off or going up hills. Maybe I need to adjust the timing again... dunno.

Oh... and the most exciting news... my surging idle is back, and now the car overheats at stoplights. WTF! Please help.

[RLong31]

Should also add... I just re-adjusted the timing again... maybe I'm just plain doing that wrong?????? All these damn T, red line, white line... vacuum lines connected vs disconnected, at idle in gear?... I'm kinda just guessing... so any help there on timing an LXi would be awesome. In park... vacuum lines connected I set it at 15* on the T mark.

Also added some coolant and bled the system... maybe that will fix the overheating problem... we'll see.

Also, I just broke the adjustment bolt on the top rear side of the dizzy... just plain awesome. The bottom and and the top front tighten down fine... am I going to have problems now, or should I go to a junk yard and get a replacement?

Maybe when I installed the timing belt... it's off a tooth or two? How could I tell if it was? What signs would there be?

UPDATE: Still getting hot... checked it after I messed w/ timing... was a little north of the midway mark.. but not all the way in "H" zone.

Anybody wanna buy a car?

[Dr_Snooz]

Looks like you've been busy. For the timing, leave the vacuum lines connected. The "T" indicates top-dead-center. You are aiming for 15* before that. It should be marked with a "15" on the flywheel.

I would guess you have a gigantic vacuum leak. That would cause both the terrible mileage, poor running and the surging idle. Find that leak(s) and you should be golden.

Keep your head up. The car will be worth the trouble. Just take a few deep breaths and keep at it.

[RLong31]

Is it possible to have an internal vacuum leak of some sort inside the brake booster? When I replaced the master cylinder there was a slight gap around the outside... like it didn't quite fit right. I just sealed it up with some silicone gasket as a temporary fix and it fixed the hissing... other than that.. only thing I can think of is the PCV valve doesn't quite fit down in the hole like it should. Guess I can start w/ the PCV and go from there since it's cheap.

[Dr_Snooz]

The brake booster uses engine vacuum. If it was hissing, I'd say that's your problem.

[RLong31]

It WAS hissing. That's why I did the temp fix of the silicon gasket stuff. Haven't heard it again or been able to feel it suck my finger in.

The PCV was a worry too because it didn't seem to fit snug in the hole like the old one, but I'm guessing that's not under vacuum?

I also just found that my oil filter base gasket is leaking oil now... grrrr.

Replacing the broken bolt on the dizzy today... gonna put it back together and see if I can get it set right and bleed the coolant again... kinda need an extra set of hands.

Also... w/o a vacuum pump... how can I tell if the vacuum advance diaphragm is working properly? I got one for like 5 bucks at the JY just in case maybe that was the problem keeping time.

[PENN]

i can feel it when my vacadvance kicks in. gets more power at about 3.5k

[Dr_Snooz]

Also... w/o a vacuum pump... how can I tell if the vacuum advance diaphragm is working properly? I got one for like 5 bucks at the JY just in case maybe that was the problem keeping time.

You can push the plunger in and hold your finger over the hole. If the plunger stays down, it's probably good.

[2oodoor]

I opened up this thread because I read something about transmsision?

anyhew... as for the issues mentioned
The T mark is used to line up the timing belt to crank TDC-"cam timing'
The others are used with the timing light "Ignition timing"

An internal vacuum leak would be a stuck egr valve or leaking under it thru the gasket between the ports.

Of all those parts replaced and work done, i did not see where a thermostat was replaced!

[RLong31]

I must have left that out... I replaced the thermostat.. and had the coolant flushed. I just bled the cooling system AGAIN... still is getting warm.. if I turn on the a/c.. the fans kick on... the engine cools down to normal temps. So I dunno

The engine was surging earlier.. I was reading somewhere to bleed the coolant again, so I did that. Before I did it tho.. I pulled the outer hose.. .closest to the bumper on the vacuum advance diaphragm and the put my thumb over the hose and the surging stopped and didn't come back... then I bled the coolant.

The coolant was flushed about 3k miles ago... and I can use a cooking syringe and pull some out of the top of the radiator and it looks nasty. All dirty and gross. I hate to pay for ANOTHER flush, but it looks like it needs it regardless. I changed the water pump and thermostat after the flush.. and drained/filled the radiator then also... almost looks like they didn't flush it at all to be honest.

Another thing on the timing... if I am setting it to 15* on the red mark the one w/ the 1 and 5 surrounding it.. the book says to do it in gear... if I set it in park to 15* then put it in gear... the red mark is at about 7*... so which is it? Set it at 15* to the red mark, in gear, with the vacuum lines connected?

[Dr_Snooz]

I lost count of all the times I flushed my coolant before it finally stayed clean. There is supposedly a block drain under the exhaust manifold somewhere. I haven't really gone looking for it yet so can't tell you how to find it. Draining the block would be a good idea though.

[86-lxi]

It should be set in gear, I just put my ebrake on if I don't have anyone to help. Idle should be around 750 rpms. It can be up to 17 or down to 13 degrees advanced depending on the vehicle and still be in spec(for an lxi anyway) I'd go with 13* first run a tank or two and see what mileage you get and keep advancing a degree until you hit the sweet spot.

[RLong31]

Cool, thank you. I set it in park... at 15... then I put it in gear and check again and it was at about 7... so I need to go back out and mess with it again. I keep breaking shit.. broke a dizzy bolt, then broke both the bolt/screws on the dizzy cap. I think I finally have the coolant bled, but we'll see. I'll probly take it to a shop to have them flush it again so I can blame it on them if something goes wrong, lol.