Stalling when I use brakes, unsteady idle.

[yoyodude101]

Hello! I've got an '89 accord lx (manual) that has had carburetor problems since I got it. Before, it was just failing to come off of high idle after warming up. One day I decided to rebuild the carb (not knowing how notoriously difficult they are) and long story short, I bought a rebuilt carb for 35 dollars (a steal, right?). After many headaches, I finally got the thing installed and adjusted... kinda. When on low idle, the rpms fluctuate by a small amount (haven't yet noted how much. Will do when I start her again.) and she stalls when I brake or turn. I try putting the clutch pedal in and alternating between the brake and gas, but that's not really a safe way to drive. Any advice? You're input shall be appreciated, as I am really getting tired of driving my grandma's Dodge neon.

[cygnus x-1]

Hello! I've got an '89 accord lx (manual) that has had carburetor problems since I got it. Before, it was just failing to come off of high idle after warming up. One day I decided to rebuild the carb (not knowing how notoriously difficult they are) and long story short, I bought a rebuilt carb for 35 dollars (a steal, right?). After many headaches, I finally got the thing installed and adjusted... kinda. When on low idle, the rpms fluctuate by a small amount (haven't yet noted how much. Will do when I start her again.) and she stalls when I brake or turn. I try putting the clutch pedal in and alternating between the brake and gas, but that's not really a safe way to drive. Any advice? You're input shall be appreciated, as I am really getting tired of driving my grandma's Dodge neon.


That almost sounds like a float level problem. If it's too high it could be overflowing and flooding, or if it's too low it could be starving the jets. If I had to guess I would say too low.


C|

[yoyodude101]

I think you're right. It also happens while driving downhill, so I think the gas in the bowl moves forward and as you said, starves the jets. Also, the primary venturi is spitting fuel sporadically, which is causing the fluctuation in idling. Luckily, I have that same venturi from the old carburetor. I think I have to remove the bowl cover to adjust the float, because the fuel level looks fine through the window, but the engine still cuts out when the float should be allowing more fuel in to compensate. That sound right? I have a bowl cover gasket so... should I replace it when I put the bowl cover back on?

[Dr_Snooz]

Oooooh. You touched the carb. It is forbidden. The gods will punish you.

[yoyodude101]

Oooooh. You touched the carb. It is forbidden. The gods will punish you.

Yeah... currently enduring punishment. I replaced the primary venturi, that worked out well. I also adjusted the float... That did NOT work out well. I have gas seeping up through the valve and the enginge is NOT happy.

[yoyodude101]

Somewhat driveable again! Dies when I make a tight turn. Does that solenoid at the back do anything besides raise the idle when air conditioning is on?

[cygnus x-1]

Somewhat driveable again! Dies when I make a tight turn.

Hmm. Sounds like maybe the float valve is sticking or maybe the seat is not sealing up right.



Does that solenoid at the back do anything besides raise the idle when air conditioning is on?

I'm not really familiar with the Accord carbs but I'm going to say no.



You will probably have to pray to the almighty 3geezus now to get your carb to work right. A monetary sacrifice at the "salvation" yard might save you if 3geezus will not forgive you.


C|

[Dr_Snooz]

If you don't have smog checks, a Weber swap might be your best bet. If you do have smog checks, then blood sacrifice is required.

[yoyodude101]

Hmm... played with vacuums, and it helped a bit. Raised the idle a whole lot so it doesn't die during turns. I dont know why, but the power steering is really messing with it. That's the only problem I'm aware of now.

And yes, I have to pass smog. California happens to be quite strict too. :(

[Dr_Snooz]

Where are you at in CA?

[yoyodude101]

Ventura county. Problem solved! It was the solenoid at the back. One simple thing caused such odd problems. Makes sense though.

[ADRIANFARINA]

Wich one?

[yoyodude101]

Which one what?

[ADRIANFARINA]

what was the problem with the solenoid? which wire goes to it ? I'm having the same problem after a Webber problem..

[yoyodude101]

The solenoid wasn't working, because the wire broke. The wire is attached to the solenoid, If you find the solenoid, you've found the wire...

[mtaylor]

mine does that too, have to make sure i dont slam the brakes, or make a turn without gassing it..... i try inspecting that solenoid

[POS carb]

there is a fuel cut solenoid on the back of the oem carb. It has 12v when running and when you cut the key off it blocks off the idle circuit to prevent dieseling.

[yoyodude101]

Well it was running beautifully for a while. I had 12 volts running through it from the battery, and it was perfect. But two days ago, the engine kinda shut off when I was teaching my girl how to drive stick. I thought it was a stall, but when it was started again, it wouldn't idle. It had all the same symptoms as before, so I'm fairly certain it's that solenoid. I took it out and found that it was working fine... so what the heck is going on?

[TotaledTL]

:rocket: <-- Do that to the stock carb & all related vac. valves, solenoids, hoses, etc. Then install a Weber.

[Dr_Snooz]

Just going by your thread title, I would say you have a big vacuum leak at the brake booster.

[Pnem3]

just going by your thread title, i would say you have a big vacuum leak at the brake booster.

+1

[Yoyodude]

Ill check for that.