View Full Version : problems with high idleing, diesles after shut off, and hesitation.
whiteLX
09-13-2011, 05:04 PM
I'm new to this forum but not to working on older Honda cars. but i have never owned a carb Honda engine. i just picked up an 87 accord sedan, has 174k miles on it. idles between 2000 and 3000, and when i turn the ignition off it still tries to run. i know the distributor has one mounting tab broken off and i have heard of people having this problem because of the carb is starting to go bad. any help would be greatly appreciated.
Austin's 86 LX
09-14-2011, 11:48 AM
I had the same problem when I got mine. A carb rebuild or Weber swap would be the way to go. The Weber gave me quite a bit of trouble at first though so if you go that route be ready to do lots of adjusting. Once it's in there though highway driving improves a lot, I used to have trouble getting mine to go once I was up around 60 mph beforehand.
Dr_Snooz
09-14-2011, 07:22 PM
Sounds like your idle speed is turned up too high. Try backing it down. That should tame the run-on too. Having the timing off can also cause the run-on, so definitely get the distributor fixed too. A dirty engine can also cause run-on, so try some injector cleaner.
whiteLX
09-15-2011, 04:01 PM
where is the idle speed adjuster, i did run a can of sea foam cleaner through the fuel system. i do keep finding vacuum leaks. i guess I'm actually going to have to buy almost a whole roll of vacuum hose to replace all of them. the amount of vacuum hoses on the A20A1 engines are ridiculous.
check the timing, and spray the hoses in spurts with carb cleaner. If there is a difference in idle, you have a leak.
THEONE>>>
09-15-2011, 06:39 PM
Well I am having the exact same problems. they are intermittent! Some time it runs on . Sometimes no. Sometimes it will start idling high then go away. Sometimes it seems a lil stumbly until bout 3000 rpms.I too have a broken tab on dist. But have fixed that and it wasnt the problem. Some of the "other" issues were when letting off gas while accelling it would burp "like a temp lack of fuel"....replaced both fuel filters and that problem is curing. also A can of gas treatment. ........I believe since they are intermittent for me that it probably isnt the timing??? Probably not idle adjustment????? and most likely a leak.. that can be effected intermmittently. Am i wrong in this line of thought?????
Any suggestions ? And sorry i couldnt help the OP. While waiting for posts I will check timing and look for leaks. Thank yall
Dr_Snooz
09-16-2011, 08:57 PM
I think your carb is done.
whiteLX
09-18-2011, 09:02 AM
I turned down the idle speed adjuster, and it seemed to bring the rpm down but only when i pull up on the throttle pedal. I tried lubing my throttle cable but that didn't help any. I have tried looking for a throttle cable through local parts houses but no one carries it, would that be a dealer only item? as far as the distributor goes, I pulled the cap and rotor off and looked at them they have a lot of corrosion on them. i am going to be replacing the distributor, cap and rotor this week.
POS carb
09-22-2011, 02:26 PM
sounds like you have a large vacuum leak.check the hose that hooks up to the idle boost dashpot
http://img268.imageshack.us/img268/1104/idleboost.jpg
whiteLX
09-23-2011, 04:26 PM
i have replaced the distributor. it idles better, but still keeps the rpms at around 2500+. then i drove it home and turned it off, now it wont even crank over. i thought i may have overheated, but when i looked at the temp gauge it read normal operating temperature. this car is really starting to piss me off with the random problems. I figured it would have problems being an 87 but damn.
whiteLX
09-24-2011, 02:19 PM
ok it seems my no start was caused by a previous owner that cut the connector off of the wire that goes into the starter. i replaced about 8 ft of vacuum line and only got about 1/4 of the vacuum lines replaced. it idles between 1200 and 2000 rpm, and its not steady.
g.frost
09-26-2011, 07:33 AM
Do a search and your symptoms play over and over here. .... That diagram POScarb posted shows the usual most likely suspects with arrows pointing to them. left side of the carb: the choke opener, choke heater, (and behind it, the fast idle unloader) throttle control. etc.
Instead of blindly replacing vacuum hose or the whole carb, why not get a vacuum gauge and follow the test procedures for these components detailed in the manual? The problem is most likely in this area and/or associated vacuum plumbing and thermovalves, not inside the carb itself. A problem diagnosis will save $ in replacement parts that you don't need.
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