Exhaust Leak

[Dr_Snooz]

Two adjacent exhaust manifold nuts of mine have rattled off now and the car has a very noticeable exhaust leak. I feel like I'm driving around in a jalopy. Since my rebuild, the exhaust manifold nuts and studs have been an ongoing issue. One stud is working its way out and won't screw back in for some reason. The two nuts that fell off have been working themselves loose all the time and fast enough that they were gone before I could re-tighten them.

How do I fix this? I'm tempted to use hi-temp red LocTite, but as sure as I do, I'll snap a stud and be screwed. Does anyone else have this problem or a good solution? I'm wondering if some kind of hi-temp RTV would be a better solution.

[ecogabriel]

Which joint is it? the one that connects to the muffler or the ones around the cat?

Can't you get a stud-nut replacement? Take a look in rockauto I saw something there

I know for a fact you can remove the studs in the muffler one (or where they attached to the pipe before the muffler?) but you'll have to raise the car or get yourself underneath it.

[Dr_Snooz]

Studs in the head.

[Ichiban]

Chase the threads with a new bottoming tap and use new studs and nuts. A new exhaust manifold to head gasket is needed too. Use proper metric lock washers and torque in stages to the specification.

[TotaledTL]

Then retorque after a few hot/cold cycles.

[DBMaster]

I know exactly what you're talking about. A couple of mine had to be replaced after they disappeared. The newer Hondas used some weird looking type of nut that had slots cut around it (self-locking, I guess). I had one that was loose a couple of weeks ago and when I tightened it I thought it was stripped. The stud broke off below the level of the manifold so I'm just living with it since it's not leaking. I haven't ever tried to drill out a steel stud in an aluminum head with the manifold still on so I'll leave it alone until I have to mess with it!

[Dr_Snooz]

I went to Napa and bought some lock nuts. I will probably just put some RTV around the studs before putting them in the head. It will fill up the extra space and provide some cushion against the vibration of the engine. We'll see how it works out.

[ecogabriel]

Which joint is it? the one that connects to the muffler or the ones around the cat?

Can't you get a stud-nut replacement? Take a look in rockauto I saw something there

I know for a fact you can remove the studs in the muffler one (or where they attached to the pipe before the muffler?) but you'll have to raise the car or get yourself underneath it.

WTF??? Now I see that I got your posting TOTALLY WRONG!!! I need a vacation it seems...

I would have done the same you are trying to do; I am not happy with dealing with steel studs on an aluminum head.

[Dr_Snooz]

The lock nuts are holding well. Unfortunately, the gasket still leaks, so I still sound like a jalopy. AAAARRRRGGGHH!!!!! I have to pull the manifold and replace the gasket and do it right. So much for half measures.

[DBMaster]

The lock nuts are holding well. Unfortunately, the gasket still leaks, so I still sound like a jalopy. AAAARRRRGGGHH!!!!! I have to pull the manifold and replace the gasket and do it right. So much for half measures.

You have something against jalopies? LOL. I have a bad feeling that sometime in the near future I'll be pulling mine as well to get the remnants of the broken stud removed.

[lostforawhile]

if they were loose, you may have to resurface the manifold, it will warp and no gasket will stop it, it's done on a big belt sander, I just did mine myself,no big deal, it shouldn't cost much to have a machine shop do it. if the studs are screwed up, helicoil to 5/16-24, then you can use a standard coarse fine stud to replace it, the 5/16 stud should fit the hole in the manifold, drilling it just slightly larger might be needed, but it's not much