Very frustrated

[colby13r]

So the other day my 88 accord lxi wouldn't start at the end of the day to go home. I had it towed home. I checked the ecu and got error code 6. I've replaced the coolant temp sensor before so I went to auto zone and got a new one for free (yay warranty!). It started right up. The problem is, now I have CEL, it's still flashing code 6, and rough starting when the motor is fairly cool but at times it's still hard starting while hot. Usually just cold in the morning or after I get out of class (minimum one hour). I'm totally stumped.

[RAZR]

So the other day my 88 accord lxi wouldn't start at the end of the day to go home. I had it towed home. I checked the ecu and got error code 6. I've replaced the coolant temp sensor before so I went to auto zone and got a new one for free (yay warranty!). It started right up. The problem is, now I have CEL, it's still flashing code 6, and rough starting when the motor is fairly cool but at times it's still hard starting while hot. Usually just cold in the morning or after I get out of class (minimum one hour). I'm totally stumped.

did u reset the ecu?
You can reset the ECu by removing the negative battery cable for like 30 seconds and ur light should be gone.

[colby13r]

Yes I removed the battery cable and flipped the headlights to clear out all the electricity and left it disconnected for about 45 minutes and it didn't change anything. Any other suggestions?

[86hatch]

Check for un restricted continuity from the sensor to the ecu if no resistance then take that CA sensor back its prob defective out of the box. Cheap sensors from parts stores suck and you will tend to have to change often or try several before getting a good one.

[Dr_Snooz]

There are three different temp sensors. Did you change the right one? You want the one on top of the coolant neck, closest to the head. The light indicates a problem in the circuit, not the sensor. Most of the time, people want to run out and buy a new sensor thinking that will make the light go away. However, problems with the circuit can also include a bad ECU (not likely) and broken wires (very likely in that area). Download the manual (http://honda.roadpwnage.com/manuals/pages/usdm-accord-1989-full.php) and run through the troubleshooting procedure starting on p. 12-26. You should have it sorted out pretty quickly.

Please post back to let us know how it turns out.

[colby13r]

Okay I went through the troubleshooter in the manualmy reading for both checks was 4.59-4.6V. Unfortunately the junk yard is really far away so I can't go until the weekend. Any other ideas? What would happen if I put a random wire between the terminals in the plug to make a short?

[Keachman1]

You may damage your ecu if you short the terminals to the sensor. You may try using a resistor that is close to the resistance of the sensor when the sensor is either hot or cold or somewhere in the middle range if you can't get the correct sensor quickly and just have to drive the car. Or just leave the sensor unplugged and let the ecu default to the open loop mode until your replace the sensor. It will use a little more gas but shouldn't hurt anything.

[Dr_Snooz]

If you were to run a new wire from the ECU to the sensor, that would probably work much better.

[colby13r]

So you think it still may be the wires snooz? Also last night I replaced the cap and rotor so I'll see how it starts this morning and let you guys know because it was pretty nasty in there. (got the cap and rotor free from autozone too! :D so far fixing this hasn't cost me any money (fingerscrossed knock on wood))

Update: cap and rotor didnt help the problem

[colby13r]

Also what are the steps involved to getting to the ecu?

[colby13r]

Okay the new cap and rotor didn't change a thing on cold starts. I will also note that when I am starting it in the morning, I have to pump the gas while cranking to get the motor to fire, as it's starting to catch, the rpms bounce all over from 0-800 or so, with the car shaking violently and horrible sputtering noises. Not too long ago I got a new fuel filter, plugs, wires, and air filter. The main relay is a few months old, new tw sensor (resistance checked in at 204 ohms with the motor warm), fresh oil, injector cleaner once a month.

You guys got any ideas? Other than changing the ecu for now?

After browsing the forums I've read about things like bubbles in the cooling system, air idle control valves may cause similar problems? Could these be my problem?

[Dr_Snooz]

So you think it still may be the wires snooz?

I know that the wires at the ECT sensor are exposed to a lot of engine heat. The insulation gets hard after 20+ years and the copper inside them breaks. Sometimes the connector falls off. I've already replaced those connectors because mine fell off.

I'm not convinced that the ECT sensor is your problem here though. When it doesn't start, what happens? Does it just crank and crank and not catch? Does it flood out and smell like gas? Is it that you aren't getting fuel or fire?