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View Full Version : reputable ampilier repair company



mykwikcoupe
10-22-2011, 01:04 AM
I was going through my closet of old audio toys and came across some stuff i might decide to use. If I do I would like to have the amps checked out or at least gone through to be sure they are 100% after a long storage in a warm closet. Everything looks ok and they worked when stored but just to be sure. All the local places to me went out of business as theres no market anymore in electronic repairs with all the new cheap chinese/korean crap on the market with the class D amps and such. If anyone here does it or has a good proven guy they use let me know.

Amp I really wanted checked is the Soundstream continuum. Its an old scholl bad ass amp. Not much for bass channel is you want multiple subs but it ran my JL Audio 12w^'s pretty good at 1.5 ohms. I sold my 644s, 1000sx, 405 and the 705s a few years ago when i thought I was getting out of the audio thing. Now I might as well use it as i have it.

Dr_Snooz
10-22-2011, 05:25 AM
You're probably going to notice more by listening to it than by taking it in. Usually, you hear some noise under certain conditions and take it in for that specific complaint. They put an o-scope on it and see something weird. Then they go in and test the output of each diode, resistor and cap in the relevant circuit. Once they find the problem part, they replace it. I guess you can take it in and have them run some basic output tests, but you'd be paying money for something your ears will be much better at. Not really sure how to tell you to find a good shop. I took my AR-2 speakers into a local shop in Berkeley when I lived there. They did a passable job. I think I found them in the yellow pages. I went in a few times before taking the speakers just to get a feel for things and they seemed okay. I have my brother work on my vacuum tube stuff now. He's awesome. Yeah, sorry. Not much help, am I?

mykwikcoupe
10-22-2011, 11:40 AM
I have access to an O scope. My buddy is in school to be an electronics engineer but he doesn't have time to look at it. Would I hook the speaker output to the scope and what would the input be. I can plug it in and try it out. open it up and see if anything looks to be aria?

lostforawhile
10-22-2011, 11:50 AM
just hook it up and try it, the closet isn't going to hurt that amp.

Dr_Snooz
10-22-2011, 02:44 PM
Yeah, just let 'er rip. I dug my dad's vacuum tube receiver out of the garage after 30 years or so. I just hooked it up and listened and it was immediately apparent what needed fixing. You might be able to find an audiophile shop that will do a diagnostic, but I'll bet that diagnostic involves listening to the unit,followed by charging you a lot of money. If you're an audiophile, you're probably going to notice stuff that they didn't anyway. The very worst thing that's going to happen is that something will go poof. Then you can spend money.

mykwikcoupe
10-24-2011, 06:02 PM
opened it up, it looks amazing inside. the thermal compound.is.still malleable, the transistors all check out. nothing is bulging, miscolored or blackened on the board. I'm going to let it rip.

lostforawhile
10-24-2011, 06:05 PM
opened it up, it looks amazing inside. the thermal compound.is.still malleable, the transistors all check out. nothing is bulging, miscolored or blackened on the board. I'm going to let it rip.

thats the same thing a shop will do, they will hook it up and see if it works, then charge you for doing that. If anything burns up when you do that, the same thing will happen at the shop, it would need to be fixed anyway,

mykwikcoupe
10-24-2011, 08:06 PM
These older amps use alot more juice then the newer amps. That being said, Ill take a class A or class AB over any new amp because most of those are digital or class D in disguises. I love the old Soundstream references as Ive had a ton and still have quite most of those. I would have liked the zapcos as well but those were out of my price range back then. Now to convince a buddy to biuld me a fiberglass sub box for my Jl 12w6 in the back corners of the trunk for the hatch.