wtf?

[firefighterwhite89]

SO, 2½ years ago, I removed my EGR tube and blocked off both holes, sealed and all, and NOW, I'm throwing that uber AWESOME CEL now, and I'm getting CODE 12...EGR lift sensor. :dunno:
What exactly COULD be wrong with it? The sensor stays plugged in. Still installed. Just blocked off ...

[pickupman6]

Have you checked to see if the valve is holding vacuum. It could also be the lift sensor not giving the right reading, cvc valve or egr solenoid.

[firefighterwhite89]

Have you checked to see if the valve is holding vacuum. It could also be the lift sensor not giving the right reading, cvc valve or egr solenoid.

CVC valve? What does CVC valve stand for?

I'll check that in the morning to see if it holds vacuum. It can't be clogged that i know of. It's had it's seals changed and been cleaned, and THEN blocked off. Kinda got me bumfuzzeled. :huh:

[ecogabriel]

CVC is a green and white dish-shaped thing inside the black box. It provides steady vacuum (7-8 inHg) for EGR operation

[firefighterwhite89]

Ah, I see. Having noticed this CEL comes on within 5 minutes or less when it's colder than 60*F. It was 68*F today, and over my 82 mile trip(41 miles one way) the CEL did not come on. I blocked off the thermowax valve on the thermostat housing with a brass "hex plug" about the end of May or so. Blocked off both Vacuum lines that ran through the thermowax valve.

Should i have just directly connected the vacuum lines? Could this be the issue?

I read somewhere, i think the thermowax valve opens when it's heated thus applying more vacuum to the EGR valve AFTER the coolant has warmed up, but i really am not sure TBH what exactly that thermowax valve was created for. I posted a thread about 6-9 months ago asking about it and noone ever answered it. So i'm still kinda clueless as to its specific purpose.

Talked with David at O'Reilly Auto Parts and he told me having blocked off the EGR, it's pointless to have to buy another 50$ thermowax valve for something i'm not even really using, but maybe i really need it though?
IDK?
Someone should explain to me exactly its purpose please?

[ecogabriel]

I don't remember a thermowax valve in the EGR circuit. I have one but that operates the fuel vapor canister.

Yesterday I uploaded a couple of schematics about EGR and vacuum lines in 86 EFI accords. They are in another thread take a look at them.

Hose #24 takes full engine vacuum to the black box and the CVC which keeps vacuum steady at 7-8 in.HG for accurate EGR operation. The solenoid is what makes the valve to receive vacuum.

When helping to diagnose another EGR failure I disconnected the vacuum hose from mine and drove away. The EGR valve only works with the engine warmed up (closed loop).

Where is your #17 hose? IF it is hanging without being attached to the air duct from the air filter to the throttle body, I would guess that your EGR system has become "lazy" because of dust ingestion.

With the system non-operating, our cars suck air all the time through #17. If the air is clean then no problem. Mine was hanging in the engine bay and I started getting random code 12s. I cleaned up a small vacuum reservoir inside the black box and re-attached the hose to its location. Problem solved.

[ecogabriel]

vacuum diagrams are here,

http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=76801

[firefighterwhite89]

vacuum diagrams are here,

http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=76801

Thanks for the help broham. Ill get back to you in the next few days.
Oddly enough, i didnt do anything to it and the cel hasn't come on the past 2 days...it "fixed itself" i guess. Lol. Weird

[firefighterwhite89]

On a side note I can blow through both ports on my idle air control valve without any restriction when it was 36*f...thought i was only able to blow through it when it was warm...

[import racer]

A diagram with the black box deleted would be what I need.

[pickupman6]

@ firefighterwhite89 do you mean the fast idle valve. If so its supposed to be open when cold. What it does is bypasses the butterfly on the tb, so it can suck more air and raise the rpms. Ince it warms up it closes and has no affect. I don't think 86 or 87 have a iacv, at least mine doesn't.
@import racer. Pretty sure you will be stuck with the pgmfi light as long as you don't have the black box.
I don't think anyone has successfully deleted their egr valve without an obd1 swap, or an euro ecm swap, that never had egr to begin with.

[import racer]

I don't really care about the light,I just want to get it running right,I swap the vacuum lines the way the diagram shows and when I went into town today the cel light came on and stayed on.When I got home and checked the code it was flashing 6.So I changed out the temp sensor with another one I had.Well the code 6 is still there and I took out the ecu fuse for five min and it's still on.Is there anything else that would give me a code 6.Oh and it still idles low and rough unless it's in neutral.

[pickupman6]

Replied in other thread

[import racer]

got it!thanks man.

[firefighterwhite89]

@ firefighterwhite89 do you mean the fast idle valve. If so its supposed to be open when cold. What it does is bypasses the butterfly on the tb, so it can suck more air and raise the rpms. Ince it warms up it closes and has no affect. I don't think 86 or 87 have a iacv, at least mine doesn't.
I'm refering to the valve on the back of the intake, right next to the throttle body. Is the IACV the black thing located right next to my cruise control stuff? I have this Black cylinder like thing with 2 or 3 wires running out of it, and two vacuum lines running out of the bottom;One to the intake piping and one to the intake manifold, both about 1/4"ID tubing. Is that my IACV? Need be, i'll take pics.


@import racer. Pretty sure you will be stuck with the pgmfi light as long as you don't have the black box.
I don't think anyone has successfully deleted their egr valve without an obd1 swap, or an euro ecm swap, that never had egr to begin with.
I didn't remove my EGR valve completely. Just the tubing, running from the exhaust manifold to the intake. Valve itself is still plugged in(To prevent CEL). Just both tubing holes blocked off. I have read a good bit about EGR valves and their "purpose," but, understanding you need 3 things to make combustion(Fire), why would i want to pump noxious, -->Inert<-- HOT gases pointlessly back into the engine, not to mention the carbon build up that comes from the carbon combustion particles dirtying up my engine/intake even more? Pure pointless power-wise. I always figured the claims 'That EGR valves help cool your exhaust valves' comes from the fact that, you're not getting full combustion from the air/fuel, thus resulting in less heat/power. About makes as much sense as using a >40mm TB for 'added mileage' or adding an 'Electric turbo-blower fan'(Yes, they have them) to your intake IMHO.

[pickupman6]

The on right next to the tb with the little plate and 2 screws on top is the fast idle valve. When its hot there should be no air blowing thru it. That black solenoid valve with the two bigger hoses on the bottom does have something to do with the idle but I think it just supplies air for the ac idle boost, I don't remember what its called but its not the iacv.
I know you didn't disconnect your egr valve and I understand that you blocked it off, but that's not what's causing your problem. These cars have nothing that reads egr flow like newer cars do, so that was fine to block it off. Like I said before it could be the egr valve isn't holding vacuum, the lift sensor isn't workin, egr solenoid isn't working, cvc valve is stopped up, or that little plastic cyl with 3 vac hoses is stopped up or a vac leak somewhere. Since you haven't had the light come on again(LUCKY!!!!!) I'm going to guess it was the solenoid got stuck but now its freed up. Next time I come up to huntsville we should meet up. And yes I've seen those stupid fan "turbos".

[firefighterwhite89]

The on right next to the tb with the little plate and 2 screws on top is the fast idle valve. When its hot there should be no air blowing thru it. That black solenoid valve with the two bigger hoses on the bottom does have something to do with the idle but I think it just supplies air for the ac idle boost, I don't remember what its called but its not the iacv.
I know you didn't disconnect your egr valve and I understand that you blocked it off, but that's not what's causing your problem. These cars have nothing that reads egr flow like newer cars do, so that was fine to block it off. Like I said before it could be the egr valve isn't holding vacuum, the lift sensor isn't workin, egr solenoid isn't working, cvc valve is stopped up, or that little plastic cyl with 3 vac hoses is stopped up or a vac leak somewhere. Since you haven't had the light come on again(LUCKY!!!!!) I'm going to guess it was the solenoid got stuck but now its freed up. Next time I come up to huntsville we should meet up. And yes I've seen those stupid fan "turbos".

I'll check through those items you listed. See what I can come up with. Thanks for the ideas. Yea, talk about lucky. Light constantly came on for awhile, then the night i posted that thread about that CEL and EGR code, it stopped coming on, period. Talk about luck. Self fixing engine trouble code, FTW. I'll pm you.