Ksports on..not low enough

[mushroom_toy]

Well got the ksports on...and to be honest so far after half a day of spirited driving im not too satisfied with them....im sitting where i was a couple years ago (height wise) and have about the same ride as I used to have when I was at this height with my "cheapo" suspension.....unless I can get lower with this setup and still have a decent ride..then I guess Ill be going another direction.


Now before everyone starts saying anything they do ride good, and i have them set 5 off of full stiff...ride is excellent...its just that ive had the same ride quality before so not too excited about em haha....maybe its the 3 long day hassle ive had installing em lol.

Heres the deal took em out of the box snugged up the springs, and ran the lower adjusters in the front all the way up, and also ran my rear adusters all the way up....its just not low enough for me. My mudflaps were draggin and while on the road completely flat on either side....now theyre 2.5" off in front.....unacceptable.

So I was figuring I would cut my front wishbones some to get a little bit...and I can take two of the adjustment collars off in the rear to get a little lower, but without lowering the spring on each shock im not gonna get where I need to be.

But this may bring me to the problem I did have originally...bottoming struts...yes i did the tophat mod and that got rid of it...but I dont want to use the tophat mod with coilovers.....its another reason I got the coilovers lol....anyone have any ideas?

[cygnus x-1]

Heres the deal took em out of the box snugged up the springs, and ran the lower adjusters in the front all the way up, and also ran my rear adusters all the way up....its just not low enough for me. My mudflaps were draggin and while on the road completely flat on either side....now theyre 2.5" off in front.....unacceptable.


What do you mean when you say "ran the lower adjusters in the front all the way up"? The adjuster rings would move down on the shock body to lower the car. Could you take a picture of one front shock with the wheel turned all the way one way? Something sounds funny here.


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[gfrg88]

lies about not being low enough... we need pics.

[mushroom_toy]

What do you mean when you say "ran the lower adjusters in the front all the way up"? The adjuster rings would move down on the shock body to lower the car. Could you take a picture of one front shock with the wheel turned all the way one way? Something sounds funny here.


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By adjuster Im talking about the threaded cap that slides in the wishbone in the front, its bottomed out on the threaded housing. The only other way to lower would be to run the collars down and lower the springs, exactly...but that kind of ruins the point of coilovers if im just gonna bottom them out.

[mushroom_toy]

lies about not being low enough... we need pics.

I have an inch of wheel gap in front and .5" in rear...havent been this high in a year and a half lol.

[Legend_master]

The K-sports must be different then the D2's. I'm positive I could dump the back (as in lay frame), and the front with about an inch of wheel gap would allow about another 1-2" of drop. Sorry to hear they are not working out, you could do the fork mod in the front?

[cygnus x-1]

By adjuster Im talking about the threaded cap that slides in the wishbone in the front, its bottomed out on the threaded housing. The only other way to lower would be to run the collars down and lower the springs, exactly...but that kind of ruins the point of coilovers if im just gonna bottom them out.


Ehh? I think you're confused. On every other set of coilovers I've seen you raise and lower the springs to change the ride height. That's what the adjustment collars are for. That threaded cap on the bottom is so that the same shock body can be used with different sizes and types of mounts. I suppose you could use that for height adjustment, but I would only do that if you can't get the adjustment you need from the spring collars.

The positioning of the spring on the shock body really makes no difference as long as the shock itself doesn't bottom out. If the shocks are the correct length for the vehicle this shouldn't happen. Ideally the control arms themselves would hit a bump stop of some kind before the shocks bottom out, but these cars don't have that, so a bump stop in the shock is the next best thing. These appear to have integrated bump stops, which is nice.


http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c352/mariashores/Accord/Ksports003.jpg



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[turabaka]

Cygnus if you look closer at that picture you'll see the bottom most locking ring. The bottom part of the shock is threaded, and adjustable. You adjust ride height by screwing the bottom part of the shock in or out, and you change preload of the spring by setting the spring perches. When you read the instructions in the box it says exactly that.

[Legend_master]

Cygnus if you look closer at that picture you'll see the bottom most locking ring. The bottom part of the shock is threaded, and adjustable. You adjust ride height by screwing the bottom part of the shock in or out, and you change preload of the spring by setting the spring perches. When you read the instructions in the box it says exactly that.

This is correct.

[Hash_man_Se_i]

pics or this didn't happen? lol... I seriously want to see how low they get you Mushroom

[RAZR]

pics or this didn't happen? Lol... I seriously want to see how low they get you mushroom

x2

[cygnus x-1]

Cygnus if you look closer at that picture you'll see the bottom most locking ring. The bottom part of the shock is threaded, and adjustable. You adjust ride height by screwing the bottom part of the shock in or out, and you change preload of the spring by setting the spring perches. When you read the instructions in the box it says exactly that.


I read the directions on their website, and that is pretty much what they say. But the directions also say this:

"Some applications do not utilize a lower mount and must use the spring perch (B) for height adjustment"

Granted these do have a lower mount, but if adjusting the lower mount doesn't allow for enough adjustment, you need to move the spring perches.


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[bryan6732]

I'd also like to see pics of how low (or high) your car is sitting now.
Got a set of Ksports and was actually assuming it would get me low enough to at least having no wheel gap!!

[obdriver6]

I have an inch of wheel gap in front and .5" in rear...havent been this high in a year and a half lol.

OH NO!!!!! WHEEL GAP!!!!! AAAAHHHHHH!!!!!!! lol

[RobT5580]

Your car is definitely low so im not sure of the Ksports capability since i would not go that low. This was where my car left off fully loaded stock. Now i have it stripped down so it sits a bit higher but here it is with the A20A3 still in it.

http://i637.photobucket.com/albums/uu98/RobT5580/Picture187.jpg
http://i637.photobucket.com/albums/uu98/RobT5580/Picture194.jpg

Thats on 17's with 205/40 tires but i didn't think it was maxed out by any means but i installed them over a year ago as it was just before last winter.

[mushroom_toy]

Yeah Ill get a pic of the car as it sits so everyone can get an idea of where youll be at if you pull these out of the box and just run both lower adjusters all the way up. To get where im gonna be...running a 15x7 et12 and 16x7 et10, im gonna have to lower the car another 2.5-3". Sooo that being said I dont want a chance of prematurely blowing the shocks themselves...im pretty sure i can remove the threaded collar in the rear and preload the spring and get the rear where i need to be...the front however im gonna be cutting the lower wishbones first, then i guess i will run the collars and spring down .5" ill sit it on the ground and see where that sits me...but im pretty sure im going to have to use extended top hats in the front with the k sports to get as low as i want and get the shock travel these need to not blow....my shock towers are already cut and my upper control arms used to reside up in there when the car was on the ground...as an idea of how low the car was.

I wish out front forks were larger...then we could just run the threaded shock bodies in them with a collar upper and lower...or something..but that goosneck into the fork is a problem. :(

[Tdurr]

:(

[cygnus x-1]

Yeah Ill get a pic of the car as it sits so everyone can get an idea of where youll be at if you pull these out of the box and just run both lower adjusters all the way up. To get where im gonna be...running a 15x7 et12 and 16x7 et10, im gonna have to lower the car another 2.5-3". Sooo that being said I dont want a chance of prematurely blowing the shocks themselves...im pretty sure i can remove the threaded collar in the rear and preload the spring and get the rear where i need to be...the front however im gonna be cutting the lower wishbones first, then i guess i will run the collars and spring down .5" ill sit it on the ground and see where that sits me...but im pretty sure im going to have to use extended top hats in the front with the k sports to get as low as i want and get the shock travel these need to not blow....my shock towers are already cut and my upper control arms used to reside up in there when the car was on the ground...as an idea of how low the car was.

I wish out front forks were larger...then we could just run the threaded shock bodies in them with a collar upper and lower...or something..but that goosneck into the fork is a problem. :(



Oh, I see then. You want to lower the car beyond what it was really designed for. Before you cut the front shock fork, why don't you take the springs out and lower the front with a jack to see how far you can go before the shocks bottom out. Or maybe just put a jack under one control arm and see how far you can stuff the wheel with the spring removed. If the shocks have enough travel then you won't need to do any cutting. If the shocks don't have enough travel, I would do the top hat mod but leave the shock fork as is. I know people have cut the forks before and not had a problem but it just seems like a bad idea to me.


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[mushroom_toy]

^Yeah Ill check everything out before hand...with the way the k sports fit in the fork though I really dont see a problem...fit isnt as tight as a stock shock so if the k sports dont pop out, then I think they should be fine with cut forks...I would only be cutting up until the clamping bolt though and not running past it of course.

[MessyHonda]

any pics yet?

[Legend_master]

Yeah Ill get a pic of the car as it sits so everyone can get an idea of where youll be at if you pull these out of the box and just run both lower adjusters all the way up. To get where im gonna be...running a 15x7 et12 and 16x7 et10, im gonna have to lower the car another 2.5-3". Sooo that being said I dont want a chance of prematurely blowing the shocks themselves...im pretty sure i can remove the threaded collar in the rear and preload the spring and get the rear where i need to be...the front however im gonna be cutting the lower wishbones first, then i guess i will run the collars and spring down .5" ill sit it on the ground and see where that sits me...but im pretty sure im going to have to use extended top hats in the front with the k sports to get as low as i want and get the shock travel these need to not blow....my shock towers are already cut and my upper control arms used to reside up in there when the car was on the ground...as an idea of how low the car was.

I wish out front forks were larger...then we could just run the threaded shock bodies in them with a collar upper and lower...or something..but that goosneck into the fork is a problem. :(

If your going to go crazy with it anyway, maybe you could cut the top part of the lower collar in the front. I bet you could cut a good inch off before running out of threads to screw the shock body into. Would work for the front and rear. Would also allow for the shock travel you are looking for. Would be completely un-reversible, but would allow for what your looking to do.

[3gmodifier]

i have the Ksport Control pros too and also had this problem when i finally lowered the car off the jack stands. with out bottoming out the shocks i lowered the spring colar just a 1/4 of an inch in the back and a hair more in the front while the lower mounts were maxed. this set up is designed for an extreme driving situation ware you want good compression and rebound and yet maintain suspension travel. if u wanna be slammed and comprimise true handling then there are plenty of other setups that will give you the look at least. I love my set up thus far and have had it for about 6 months or so. With all new bushings, falken tires, and a vigot rear sway bar, i cant ask for more. I drive the coupe like a go-kart all the time and it just takes it.

[mushroom_toy]

^Yeah handling is good, but my last setup was just as good....bump steer and bump torque is retarted with this setup though...happens all the time.

Legend think im gonna go with your idea...dont know why I didnt think of it earlier...Ive already voided my warranty anyway haha.

[Minty89]

im about to buy a set of these ksport one pieces for my 89 LX 4dr .. im wondering how low in inches can these be adjusted to
for example 0 inches to 3 inches ?

[bryan6732]

I'm gonna mount the Ksports on my Aerodeck next Saturday, so prepare for the pics!
Will set them at lowest possible... :)

[obdriver6]

^ I can't wait! :)

[bryan6732]

^ I can't wait! :)

Well, it's true. They aren't really low, but hell they are great!! :)
I can take corners like I'm go karting now!

Here's the pics:
http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Foto-E4VQRPG4.jpg

http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Foto-PEOHCH8U.jpg

I have 195/45/16 tires by the way, which is pretty small. (38 offset btw)
When they're gone I might buy some "higher" ones to fill up the last tiny bit of wheel gap that's left...

[Fedor B.]

Did my Ksports last week.
Happy with it.
Front max. low, rear could go 1 cm lower.
Running with a 205/40/17 tire and ET 38 on the wheel.
No wheel gap, and no tire rubbing.

http://img692.imageshack.us/img692/7049/img4672640x480.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/692/img4672640x480.jpg/)

[Legend_master]

Did my Ksports last week.
Happy with it.
Front max. low, rear could go 1 cm lower.
Running with a 205/40/17 tire and ET 38 on the wheel.
No wheel gap, and no tire rubbing.

http://img692.imageshack.us/img692/7049/img4672640x480.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/692/img4672640x480.jpg/)


That looks phenomenal, love the wheel/drop combination.

[Fedor B.]

That looks phenomenal, love the wheel/drop combination.

Thanks!! I'm lovin it too.
Took out the last 1 cm on the rear as well.

http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1092428#post1092428