Broken radius rod

[1988accord2.0exi]

will pay good money if anyone has a spare radius rod

[Dr_Snooz]

Wouldn't the junkyard be a better bet?

[1988accord2.0exi]

yer your right ill probably find one somewhere but ill have to ring round the whole countries scrapyards, i have tried all the ones anywhere near me and no one has one of these theres not many left in the uk

[1988accord2.0exi]

i can get one now so all good just need to get the old bar out its hard to get at think ill have to drop the suspension down by compressing the spring and undoing the bolt at the bottom of the shock fork,

I'm hoping that will work but don't have much experience so will probably go wrong lol so if anyone has any better suggestions let me know

[Dr_Snooz]

Jack it up and remove the wheel. If memory serves, one of the bolts on the LCA is accessible with a ratchet. For the other, just use a box end wrench and this guide (http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=64355). No need to take apart any more than that. You might have to figure out some way to keep the front part of the rod from turning while you try to remove the front nut. Soak it good with PB Blaster before starting and it will make it easier. It should be a pretty easy repair, unless I'm forgetting something.

[1988accord2.0exi]

cheers dr snooze, theres some good tips in that guide..i should be able to get it out, jus waiting on confirmation of this replacement rod atm
then should be back on the road :)

[1988accord2.0exi]

Im stuck again my friend, taken the LCA bolt off and tried with a jack to raise the rest of the suspension up off it but can't get the LCA to drop down. I thought the fact the the shock fork is attached might be stopping it because of an alternate force but then i thought the force it's exerting is downwards anyway which should be helping it. Ive tried using the jack in various places but nothing will work it just rises with the rest of the suspension and doesn't come off the thread...seems attached somehow, I'm probably doing it all wrong so here's a picture to explain whats going on:


http://img835.imageshack.us/img835/2233/photo0181w.th.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/835/photo0181w.jpg/)

[1988accord2.0exi]

If you have any further advice, that would be greatly appreciated, ta

[Dr_Snooz]

You need a ball joint separator or pickle fork with a replacement boot. Why are you trying to remove the LCA though? If all you're doing is the radius rod, you should be able to work around the LCA.

[AccordB20A]

where are the mods at to move this to the correct forum category /spam

[Oldblueaccord]

If you have any further advice, that would be greatly appreciated, ta

Hit the LCA with a good sized hammer right were the ball joint goes thru it.There is a little pad cast into it. I would put the nut on the lower ball joint just in case you miss a few times :beat: so the threads wont get messed up. The tapered balljoint will pop out of the arm pretty easy. This works for all the joints like this.

Those 2 bolts your trying to get out can be a pain. I would use some penetrating oil to soak it. I broke one off in an arm. There on at a bad angle.


wp

[1988accord2.0exi]

where are the mods at to move this to the correct forum category /spam

this thread is in effect going to explain a project I'm doing on the suspension, replacing a radius rod, Im also on the brink of ordering kyb's and doing a step by step guide for them so its not exactly spam, i just needed some pointers to get me started off, tis a bit annoying the way this thread is bang in the middle of project central but I'm a new user and thought that was where to put it, i have tried moving it to another believe me..

Old Blue Accord - thanks ill try that, i think my difficulties may also be due to the pinch bolt i forgot to take off, its just getting the axle to be high enough above the radius rod/LCA so that i can get at the two bolts holding the rod in place, out. The annoying thing is the distance is larger on the other side of the vehicle before messing with anything.

[2oodoor]

I know this is old but I want to add here that it helps a lot to take out the sway bar end link along with removing the bottom fork bolt to LCA. This lets the whole LCA drop.

You need a jack and a stand to manage this. Use the stand under the main frame to hold the car up and the jack to move the LCA up to put the bolts back in and stuff.

[POS carb]

i've changed the radius arm without removing the wheel, it's not terribly difficult with a 14mm rachet wrench, I did it with a regular one. You need to loosen the pretension on it and then unbolt it by the bumper (17mm deep socket) and then you can play with the wheel caster to make it easier to put the bolts back in.

[2oodoor]

You're right! (no surprise) the Gearwrench or ratcheting box end wrench is a must have tool to deal with those two bolts on the radius rod.
Also right that all you should have to do is release the rod pressure with the main adjuster and the bolts would be manageable. Getting clearance to get the rod on out may be an issue for some depending how much room they have.

Some people may not want to risk changing the alignment castor but you could mark it first before moving anything.


I was reading all that was being done here to get to it and reflecting on the sway bar links holding the LCA up.

[DaveE]

i've modified the arm without eliminating the rim, it's not really challenging with a 14mm rachet wrench, I did it with a frequent one. You need to release the pretension on it and then unbolt it by the fender (17mm strong socket) and then you can perform with the rim caster to help you to put the screws returning in.


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