Just joined; big fan.. rust question?

[88Sleeper]

Hey guys,

I have been reading your forum for a lil' over a year now in order to get help from time to time with my 1988 lx carb. My problems recently got so bad that I went to the stealership to had them tell me what was wrong.. Lets just say that 2 whitebeards 9 hours to pretend to do something, and the result was "you need a new carb, $1k please..."

Long story short, I had a vacuum leak in the aftermarket distributor we replaced 6 years ago. (Thank God for lifetime warranties =)

Anyways, I wanted to ask you guys a question about the rust that my Accord has been toting for over a decade. I want to be one of the guys who went all the way (yes I know this will be one hell of a ride) and convert the carb to PGM-FI & turbo when the carb totally fails, and then just throw out the stock motor and put in a h22a4 custom build when that goes (I dont really care how long it takes, its a daily driver anyways)

However, before I get starry-eyed over that stuff, I gotta be realistic since its rusting pretty bad. we (me and dad) "de-rusted" it his cheap way 6-7 years ago, and now its in worse shape then before.

I just wanted to ask you guys if it would be worth removing the rust on this thing (or if its possible w/o completely taking it apart 100%).

I read other posts of some "people" who wanted to remove rust without any money/time... Im blessed with an endless garage of "WOW, I NEVER KNEW WE HAD ONE OF THESE THINGS" magic thanks to my dad being a DIY trucker (3 different engines, 3 different sets of tools... :ugh:) and I really don't care what kind of tools/supplies I need to get to just do it right

I hear inflation is gonna hit the US soon, so I'll buy tools now before they really go through the roof. Do you guys have any recommendations?

From what I read, I have these applicable things:
1. 200 gal Commercial compressor with cfm regulator (I think that's what it is)
2. 1 large & 1 medium electric grinders (I dont have wire-brush wheels though)
3. small air grinder/cutter (no wire brush either)
4. old can of bondo
5. random sanding paper & hand-size sanding block.

I wish I could post some pics so you guys could see what Im dealing with; but can I have some tool advice for now?

I'll be honest that I have never attempted body/paint work on any car since
I came to the conclusion I suck at spray-painting when I ruined a model rocket due to 3-coats of spray paint in freezing weather.

Thats long, but thank you for your patience!
I will accept any advice I get, with this or with being a new 3geez member!
=]

[Hazwan]

Pics of said rust would really help to see what we are dealing here but I have a good experience with cutting the rusted panel(s) out and fiberglassing them over (NOT bondo) as I don't have a welder and done properly, it should hold up just fine.

[pickupman6]

Welcome from Alabama! I wouldn't advise on just covering the rust up with bondo. It needs to be cut out and new metal welded in. You can sand and grind and wire brush all you want to, cover it with some por-15, glass mat it and bondo and within a year that bondo will be popping off. Now if its just surface rust than that's not such a big deal. By the way I'm from Michigan so I know all about rust and tried some rust repair when I was a teen. (Not saying I know all about rust repair) the only thing I've been able to do to get rid of it is cut out the cancer and replace it with repair panels. I recomend a tig welder for that, at le very least a mig welder, a pnuematic die-grinder with a 3" cut off wheel. When you get the repair piece stick it over the part you will be replacing then mark it and cut it. Next you will want th check for fitment. After I get it just right I take a couple of speaker magnets to hold it in place and tack weld it in a few places. Then you can remove the magnets and finish welding it up. But don't run a bead use mutiple tacks all over it so you don't heat up one spot and warp the metal. Once its all welded up take a 3" sanding wheel to it with a 80 grit wheel and sand it down smooth. Then your ready to prime and "bondo" to finish it. Good luck!

[88Sleeper]

Thanks!!

I was thinking about it in the back of my head today & I pretty much came to the same conclusion that I'm going to have to cut out the 1/4 fender on both sides and that bit that hours forward down the front. If the "running boards" are bad I guess I'll just replace them too?

What kind of metal sheet should I use (like material,& thickness)??

I was also wondering if I would have to diary the back of the new metal w/something to keep it from rusting too? How does bedliner sound for that, & as a general sealant to throw under the entire carriage?

Are there issues with removing entire panels (such as could the upper body sink into it due to lack of support?)

Finally, that 81 accord you have looks great man, we head an 81 until 2004, but my mom made it go away...(the scrapper won) :(

[pickupman6]

I wouuld cut the repair panels from a good donor car(or cars). Spray on bedliners workd great to prevent rust as long as you don't put it over rust.
It depends on what your replacing. You could cut a rear quarter panel off with no worrys of warpin the body, but if you cut out the entire floor pan you would want to weld in some temporary braces.

[obdriver6]

:welcome: I wish I could give you some advice but I don't know anything about body work. lol

[Oldblueaccord]

Condition on the frame is what I would look at first.

Welcome!


wp

[Dr_Snooz]

I would order replacement panels from a body shop supply place like this one.

http://www.klokkerholmusa.com/servlet/the-Honda/Categories

If you don't buy the panels, then you're going to need a machine shop full of stretchers, crimpers, benders, rollers drill presses, etc. You'll be working till the end of time custom making all your parts.

[Vanilla Sky]

Do you have a sentimental attachment to your car? If you don't, you're usually better off finding a rust free example with fuel injection already. By the time you've bought the materials and invested hours upon hours of time into the rust repair, you've bought a nice 3gee. I bought a nice rust free coupe that needed a transmission for $350 from a member here, and 2 that only needed a little rust R&R for under $600 each, in drivable condition.

I have an 89 Jeep that has a lot of rust. I have thought about repairing it, but unless I can get the materials for almost nothing, I'll replace the whole vehicle. Having a spare drivetrain is nice.

[gp02a0083]

first of all get rid of the old can on bondo. Most body fillers that i have come across will "chunk up" or have small pellets in it that have reacted. Don't use this as it will be poor quality.
Ive used bondo Gold plenty of times and it works well, as far as body fillers i tend to stick with the Evercoat brand.

Sounds like you have all the right tools to get the job done , shoot me a PM if you would want to talk about the repair.

Also never never spray anything when its cold outside, the paint can't spray right at colder temps. It tends to form bigger droplets. Spraying with a rattle can is a bit harder IMO if you ever sprayed with a HPLV spray gun. The 200 gal compressor should be fine with a in-line filter and desiccant line and get a gun from lowes or something.

like i said i am open to help anyone with body repair's, just shoot me a PM and we can talk