crankshaft seal aka front main seal [Archive] - 3geez.com - Classic Honda Accord & Prelude Forum

ecogabriel

02-25-2012, 10:31 PM

use the search feature; people has written on it including brand selection.
From top of my head, I would go ahead and replace cam seal at the same time - you have to remove crank pulley which is a FPITA.
Since you are at it, it would be very convenient to replace the oil pump seals; they are cheap and with 25 years they are most likely hardened.
If you are due for a timing belt change then do all at the same time.

l0l

02-26-2012, 06:41 AM

Thanks for the response, I guess what I meant is the process any different then a later model sohc? Anything weird or special? A guy that I was going to pay was like "ohh that carb'd model is a PITA!."...well, I know they all are! So he kind of made me nervous, but I am confident that I can do it. I have done many other projects, just nothing this big. I am aware of TDC and the infamous crank pully bolt, but is there anything else "special" I need to know about this specific model?

Blasney

02-26-2012, 08:54 AM

Nothing too "special" to know, really. Yes, the pulley will undoubtedly add to your vocabulary as you invent new curse words while removing it...but the job is rather straightforward other than that.

Like Ecogabriel suggested, replacing other related parts at the same time is the smartest way to go. Just be sure to install the new seal straight and do not warp or damage it. I apply a thin coat of white lithium grease (or regular chassis grease will work as well) to the lip of the seal where it rides on the balancer, so that you don't install the balancer 'dry' and rip the seal. It also provides a measure of sealing assistance.

Do not use any lubricant on the portion of the seal that installs into the cover, though. You want it to have a snug, secure fit and stay in place.

l0l

02-26-2012, 09:45 AM

going to order parts and get supplies maybe this week and give a wack at it

obdriver6

02-26-2012, 11:51 PM

The carb model and the FI are the same thing. The crank pulley isn't that hard compared to the later models that require the special tool, those are a PITA! Like Eco and blasney, replacing the other seals is a good idea.

Oldblueaccord

02-27-2012, 06:59 AM

going to order parts and get supplies maybe this week and give a wack at it

Mines always been the oil pump seal leaking. Use some white paper to check and run it with the cover off. it will mist off the back side of the oil pump gear.

wp

l0l

02-28-2012, 06:29 AM

l0l

02-28-2012, 07:08 AM

Mines always been the oil pump seal leaking. Use some white paper to check and run it with the cover off. it will mist off the back side of the oil pump gear.

wp

Thanks for the info. Dumb question but... where exactly is the oil pump on this model?

Oldblueaccord

02-28-2012, 07:19 AM

l0l

02-28-2012, 12:58 PM

Not dumb at all.

Its driven off the timing belt on the front of the motor. It has a toothed pulley under the timing belt cover.

Done the crank seal 3 times before I figured it out. I think the third time I put two seals and a speedi sleeve.

wp

Dam lol! Your frustration is my gain i guess haha. Thanks for the help. Do you recommend I replace the oil pump itself or just the seal (along with the cam and crank seal). I want to make this a one time deal.

POS carb

02-28-2012, 03:42 PM

Buy:
Timing belt and tensioner
Cam seal
Crank seal
Oil pump seal
Valve cover gasket
Accessory belts

a carbed car makes little difference for this job.
first remove the accessory belts. this is probably the hardest part because of limited space.
Remove valve cover. then you remove the upper timing cover and loosen the cam gear bolt one quarter turn. Losen timing belt adjuster. remove the crank pulley. remove lower timing cover. Remove timing belt. Remove cam gear. Clean off old oil leaks. Remove cam and cam seals. Replace oil pump/seal if needed. Reinstall everything working backwards. Triple check your engine timing marks before starting

ecogabriel

02-28-2012, 04:24 PM

When removing the pulley, what has worked for me was to hydrolock cylinder #1. With both valves closed in that cyl, I removed the spark plugs and squirted some amount of oil inside that cylinder (I would say about 30cc). replace the skark plug and then try loosening the crank pulley bolt (it loosens counter-clockwise - like any regular bolt)

That has worked for me but I believe my neighbors were not that happy when restarting the engine; even after pulling off most of the oil with my vacuum pump I would give them a cloud of smoke for 5-10 mins...

Be patient when installing the seals; push them evenly and SLOWLY. Once they started going in they will go without a problem. It may be a good idea to stick grease in the inside side of the seal (where you see the spring) in order to prevent the spring from getting loose while pushing it in. As said, NO GREASE in the outer side of the seal, but yes grease the inner lip and the crankshaft surface.

PATIENCE is the key word here. Get the information you need for changing the timing belt properly from the manuals.

Carbed cars are a PITA but that refers to the carburettor (and things like removing the alternator). Otherwise, the engines are identical.

l0l

02-28-2012, 08:03 PM

That has worked for me but I believe my neighbors were not that happy when restarting the engine; even after pulling off most of the oil with my vacuum pump I would give them a cloud of smoke for 5-10 mins...

:rofl: :rofl: :rofl:...Ecogabriel, where abouts do you live in Atlanta? I live in Marietta!

l0l

02-28-2012, 08:14 PM

Thanks guys for all the great tips! All very good info...I am going to go ahead and get a manual while ordering parts, just to play it safe. In the meantime, can anyone give me a TOOLS LIST for this model?

I have a lot of tools, but I am not sure as to exactly what I need to pull that dam crank pully off.

1. what size socket for the crank pully bolt?
2. do I need the "crank pully tool" ?
3. Anything else weird or out of the ordinary?

I'm going to go ahead and start gathering everything sometime this week maybe, thanks again for helping out. :cheers:

Oldblueaccord

02-29-2012, 06:32 AM

17 mm socket for the crank bolt.

It usually on there pretty good. If you have compressed air and impact is the way to go. Otherwise figure on a long breaker bar cheater bar deal 1/2" drive min.

Everything else standard metric tools.

If you take off the timing belt getting the crank and the cam pulley lined up and keeping it lined up are really important. Its easy to get the belt one tooth off.

wp

obdriver6

02-29-2012, 11:31 PM

When I changed the seal on the oil pump. I used a pry bar on the flywheel and used a breaker bar with a cheater pipe to loosen the crank bolt. The special tool in only for newer hondas.

ecogabriel

03-01-2012, 02:47 PM

:rofl: :rofl: :rofl:...Ecogabriel, where abouts do you live in Atlanta? I live in Marietta!

OH, if you get a hexagonal socket for removing the crank pulley bolt you may apply more force. I dunno if it is really necessary but it won't hurt. The rest is fairly standard; you'll need to lock the engine somehow to prevent it from turning while trying to remove that bolt. And get the manuals and PRINT the instructions for how to replace the timing belt - the diagram and pay attention to the MARKS

One thing you may want to check up is the timing mark in your flywheel. If the timing mark is there (in auto cars it is accompanied with a T letter) it would make the timing belt installation much easier. Otherwise try to make some mark that indicates where the cranksaft is at TDC (the camshaft timing gear has its own marks.)

I live in Decatur. I have to fix my neighbor's car over the weekend (water pump + alternator) but let me know if you meed some help (PM is fine)

91lowrider

03-01-2012, 05:44 PM

ecogabriel

03-01-2012, 07:26 PM

Im digging into all this now. I ordered new timing belt, tensioner, cam seal and crank seal but autozone dont carry the oil pump seal. I found one on majestic but does anyone have a rough idea how long they take to ship? everything else will be here tomorrow. I have everything off up to the damn crank pulley. Hope i can get my boss's impact to get it off. Im north of ATL in Cleveland if yall wanna come on over and give a helpin hand lol. Wish me luck!!

The oil pump seals can be bought from rockauto (they carry the beck arnley) but shipping would take a few days.

As for the crank bolt... it is a PITA. I hydrolocked cylinder #1 and used my long bar; it finally loosened. Make sure you are loosening as you would any other bolt (counter-clockwise). you may gain some extra leverage with a pipe stuck to the bar but be careful because it might break.

l0l

03-01-2012, 07:44 PM

The oil pump seals can be bought from rockauto (they carry the beck arnley) but shipping would take a few days.

As for the crank bolt... it is a PITA. I hydrolocked cylinder #1 and used my long bar; it finally loosened. Make sure you are loosening as you would any other bolt (counter-clockwise). you may gain some extra leverage with a pipe stuck to the bar but be careful because it might break.

Hell yea man I could probably use some help as I have like 0 friends here haha!..let me get all the parts and think about my options from there. I could definitely pay you some cash for your time. How would I go about hydrolocking the #1 cylinder?

Thanks again for the help! So many guys on ImportAtlanta.com are fucking assholes, this forum is has been a big help so far!

dieselgus

03-01-2012, 08:31 PM

The old trick is to make sure both valves are closed on #1 then feed in a bunch of rope through the spark plug hole to take up space in the combustion chamber and thereby locking up the motor.

Or, get a helper to hold a large flat bladed screwdriver or proper prybar on the flywheel through the timing inspection hole.

Or, do it the easy way with a half inch drive impact, no motor locking required. I reccomend the 18V Milwaukee cordless impact. Once you buy one it will be your new best friend for removing anything stubborn on these cars.

http://www.lislecorp.com/divisions/products/?product=365&division=1&category=7

Probably the easiest thing to use to get that crank (and cam) seal out of there without too much swearing and blood loss. You can also get it out of there with careful crafty use of a flat blade screw driver but no sense risking scratching your crank if you slip (necessitating even more swearing, trip to parts land for a speedi sleeve and a seal with a bigger ID to accomodate said sleeve). Best way to install the new seal is to carefully start it with light pressure making sure it is squarely situated (not going in slightly cockeyed) and then seating it fully using either the proper seal driver (http://www.lislecorp.com/divisions/products/?product=560&division=1&category=7 is the shit when it comes to doing stuff like this), or even a properly sized large socket or piece of pipe. Just as long as you are careful and make sure the seal goes in squarely and straight all the way in until it bottoms properly in its place.

91lowrider

03-01-2012, 09:50 PM

Yea l0l i wouldnt mind helpin out. Maybe ya wanna work on mine too lol. Ive been lookin for some friends that are mechanicly inclined lol. All mine now know nothing bout cars. I found a oil seal kit from advanced auto for 7 bucks so im ordering that in the morning. Hopeing i can get everything replaced and installed over the weekend. Im ready to get my lil 500 dollar car running right

charliekuney

03-01-2012, 10:15 PM

Phew, I'm lucky that mykwikcoupe is helping me do my front main seal.

l0l

03-02-2012, 06:36 AM

I am going to order this kit from amazon, includes everything but the oil pump seal. Seems like a steal! Lmk what you guys think...

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003BK1UB4/ref=aw_d_detail?pd=1

91lowrider

03-02-2012, 12:42 PM

How Much is that l0l? I have a spare set of oil pump seals ill sell ya if you need them. Update: I have finally got the crank pulley bolt removed. I broke a impact socket in the process. I ended having to buy a lil torch and heating up the bolt a few times. Oil pumps seals, cam seal and front main are replaced. All i need to do is find TDC and put timing belt on and bolt up.

91lowrider

03-02-2012, 05:55 PM

Question: since i had to heat up the crank pulley bolt to break it loose, do i order a new key along with a new bolt?

Oldblueaccord

03-02-2012, 07:26 PM

Not the bolt should be fine. If you heated it cherry red then I would worry about it.

wp

ecogabriel

03-02-2012, 08:34 PM

Hell yea man I could probably use some help as I have like 0 friends here haha!..let me get all the parts and think about my options from there. I could definitely pay you some cash for your time. How would I go about hydrolocking the #1 cylinder?

Thanks again for the help! So many guys on ImportAtlanta.com are fucking assholes, this forum is has been a big help so far!

If I stop by it would not be for the money just to share what I learned when doing it. Dieselgus advice is right on about how to lock the engine - and the rest.

One thing that happened to me is that one of the oil pump bolts broke. It was the stud the one that broke; the stud remover in the link did the trick. They sell the whole set but only the smaller one is needed - it can be bought separately (I checked but forgot what part # is)
http://www.searsoutlet.com/6-pc-Stuck-Bolt-Nut-and-Stud-Remover-Set/d/product_details.jsp?md=ct_md&pid=13396&mode=seeAll

It is a 6mm x 25mm stud (or 30mm, cant recall exactly); a 6mm bolt would also work.

Glad 91 got his seals done done; the crank bolt is really a bitch. Just be careful with crank TDC; the crank TDC marks are almost impossible to lose sight of. Take it easy, and you'll get it done.

Another weird thing for me was removing the oil pump screws to change the seal; I had to borrow an impact screwdriver to remove them.

Because of the things that may go wrong I would suggest get an alternative mobility in case you need to go to the store to buy something.

EDIT: I found the part # for the stud remover that fits the stud that broke in mine (it is #19260)
http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/lis19250.html

l0l

03-03-2012, 05:52 AM

2drSE-i

03-03-2012, 07:28 AM

IMPACT!!! Save yourself the time and frustration!

91lowrider

03-03-2012, 03:33 PM

glad to see you got it done! that kit is $115.00. How much you want for the oil pump seal!? Did you change yours?

l0l that would be a good price for everything and then you can get the oil seals i have. I'll give them to ya for 10 bucks. Well i found TDC and got the timing belt put back on. Now does the dizzy have to be in a certain position while installing the timing belt because im on Tdc and the dizzy is all the way advanced and its running rougher than it did before i tore it apart? The car barely runs and is kinda puttering. Any ideas?

ecogabriel

03-04-2012, 05:53 AM

l0l that would be a good price for everything and then you can get the oil seals i have. I'll give them to ya for 10 bucks. Well i found TDC and got the timing belt put back on. Now does the dizzy have to be in a certain position while installing the timing belt because im on Tdc and the dizzy is all the way advanced and its running rougher than it did before i tore it apart? The car barely runs and is kinda puttering. Any ideas?

Did you align the camshaft marks parallel with the top of the cylinder head?
Besides the word TOP, the cam sprocket has two thin marks at the sides; for the valves to be at TDC for cylinder #1 (both should be closed) the marks have to align with the top of the cylinder head. If that is not perfectly aligned that may explain the distributor not being in the right position

Also, that may sound stupid but check that the ignition wires are attached to the right cylinder.

91lowrider

03-04-2012, 06:27 AM

Did you align the camshaft marks parallel with the top of the cylinder head?
Besides the word TOP, the cam sprocket has two thin marks at the sides; for the valves to be at TDC for cylinder #1 (both should be closed) the marks have to align with the top of the cylinder head. If that is not perfectly aligned that may explain the distributor not being in the right position

Also, that may sound stupid but check that the ignition wires are attached to the right cylinder.

Yea my i checked my cam sprocket and the whole is up and the two marks are aligned with the head as per the manual. I even rotated the crank two full rotations and rechecked everything and everything was sitting perfect but when started was running horrible. I tried advancing the dizzy all the way and it would run a lil longer before dieing.

I rechecked the crank at TDC and now its saying like four before 18 BTDC. But it seems everytime i rotate to recheck it comes up different. Can anybody explain this to me?

Oldblueaccord

03-04-2012, 06:40 AM

You want TDC at the compression stroke. Meaning both valves closed and the piston moving up. The piston will also move up on the exhaust stroke.

The distributor rotor should line up with the #1 spark plug tower on the cap at TDC also.

Does sound like you might have a plug wire crossed. Even 2-3 teeth off the motor will run ok but have no power.

wp

Bluntman

03-04-2012, 08:49 AM

When I bought my car years ago from my neighbor the timing belt had just been done. It had predetonation under load. So I put my timing light on it and could not even see the mark on the flywheel no matter where a turned the distributor. So right away I knew the belt was off, unlike most V8's that run a gear on the distributor that could be off a tooth, these are slotted so I knew what it was when I could not see the timing mark on the flywheel. It was off two teeth. I realigned it. Got the timing down and was all good.

ecogabriel

03-04-2012, 10:20 AM

Yea my i checked my cam sprocket and the whole is up and the two marks are aligned with the head as per the manual. I even rotated the crank two full rotations and rechecked everything and everything was sitting perfect but when started was running horrible. I tried advancing the dizzy all the way and it would run a lil longer before dieing.

I rechecked the crank at TDC and now its saying like four before 18 BTDC. But it seems everytime i rotate to recheck it comes up different. Can anybody explain this to me?

One: rotate the engine COUNTER-CLOCKWISE; that is the normal way of rotation of our engines. Two: position everything as instructed but BEFORE checking by rotating tighten the belt tensioner bolt. The spring is supposed to apply the right amount of pressure to the belt but it won't hold the belt tightened while the engine is turning.

When I got my car, the belt was timed to 15 degrees BTDC; some idiot at the Honda dealership has confounded the timing marks! Engine would not rev above 4-5K... like Bluntman said...

91lowrider

03-04-2012, 10:28 AM

One: rotate the engine COUNTER-CLOCKWISE; that is the normal way of rotation of our engines. Two: position everything as instructed but BEFORE checking by rotating tighten the belt tensioner. The spring attached to it is supposed to apply the right amount of pressure to the belt but it won't hold the belt tightened while the engine is turning.

I got it all put back together and running but i cant test drive it right now because since i changed all the seals there i guess my oil pressure is up and causing oil to flow out the filter base gasket like a river. just in the time for the engine to warm up (fans came on twice) so i could check timing i had a big puddle under the car at a fast drip.

ecogabriel

03-04-2012, 10:48 AM

I got it all put back together and running but i cant test drive it right now because since i changed all the seals there i guess my oil pressure is up and causing oil to flow out the filter base gasket like a river. just in the time for the engine to warm up (fans came on twice) so i could check timing i had a big puddle under the car at a fast drip.

If you replaced the oil pump seals, pressure might have gone up if one of them was allowing pressure to escape internally (I an thinking the smaller one with a string of rubber inside the diameter... hope you get what I am trying to say).

If you replaced the oil pump seals (the three of them) how did the old ones look like? I bet hardened as hell.

Regardless of the leak, is the engine running right now? At least you may be able to check that the timing is right.

91lowrider

03-04-2012, 11:01 AM

If you replaced the oil pump seals, pressure might have gone up if one of them was allowing pressure to escape internally (I an thinking the smaller one with a string of rubber inside the diameter... hope you get what I am trying to say).

If you replaced the oil pump seals (the three of them) how did the old ones look like? I bet hardened as hell.

Regardless of the leak, is the engine running right now? At least you may be able to check that the timing is right.

Yea I understand which one you were talking about. Thats the gasket itself and the other two are the o rings.

I did replace all three and they were hard as could be. I was able to get it running and to get it timed. I have it set at around 15 degrees for now (seems to idle good there) until i can get to test drive it and adjust accordingly after that. But i cant do nothing now until i get the parts in the mail from Majestic, and might i add their shipping and handling prices are retarded. I bought like 9 dollars worth of product and my total came out to 23 dollars.

ecogabriel

03-04-2012, 11:14 AM

Yea I understand which one you were talking about. Thats the gasket itself and the other two are the o rings.

I did replace all three and they were hard as could be. I was able to get it running and to get it timed. I have it set at around 15 degrees for now (seems to idle good there) until i can get to test drive it and adjust accordingly after that. But i cant do nothing now until i get the parts in the mail from Majestic, and might i add their shipping and handling prices are retarded. I bought like 9 dollars worth of product and my total came out to 23 dollars.

It is possible that there was less pressure because of that gasket leaking internally; now with more pressure the smaller leak in the filter base became a waterfall.

EDIT: here is the thead, http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=73427

91lowrider

03-04-2012, 11:33 AM

It is possible that there was less pressure because of that gasket leaking internally; now with more pressure the smaller leak in the filter base became a waterfall.

EDIT: here is the thead, http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=73427

what kind of oil pressure should the car be running at? so i need to replace the oil sending switch also while im replaceing the gasket? Im thinking it may be a good idea to install a oil pressure switch since im going to be working down there anyway.

ecogabriel

03-04-2012, 12:54 PM

what kind of oil pressure should the car be running at? so i need to replace the oil sending switch also while im replaceing the gasket? Im thinking it may be a good idea to install a oil pressure switch since im going to be working down there anyway.
I got a 15psi pressure switch (autometer, 1/8" NPT) that I will attach to my T for extra safety. I have not installed it yet because I would install a pressure gauge - take a look at the other thread you post in 2geez for the parts I got.

As for precise pressure readings check the service manual.
I BELIEVE you may see 10-15 psi with a hot engine at idle, and 40-60 at about 3,000 rpm with hot engine.

l0l

03-04-2012, 03:59 PM

shit! you guys are scaring me, i might just bite the bullet and have my mechanic friend do this for 250 ahahahha. ..dam.

91lowrider

03-04-2012, 04:12 PM

shit! you guys are scaring me, i might just bite the bullet and have my mechanic friend do this for 250 ahahahha. ..dam.

Hell l0l just bring it on up here and we will do both cars at the same time.

l0l

03-04-2012, 06:37 PM

Hell l0l just bring it on up here and we will do both cars at the same time.

if only you were closer...fuck it, I'm ordering the kit tonight and going balls to the wall one weekend this month :rockon:

91lowrider

03-04-2012, 07:40 PM

if only you were closer...fuck it, I'm ordering the kit tonight and going balls to the wall one weekend this month :rockon:

Oh you aint that far away lol. One these weekends you me and eco need to get together and go to the junkyard or somethin lol

l0l

03-05-2012, 10:21 AM

Oh you aint that far away lol. One these weekends you me and eco need to get together and go to the junkyard or somethin lol

have you ever been to Honda parts connection in Sugar Hill? ...it's like a treasure chest for hondas!!!!!

91lowrider

03-05-2012, 10:22 AM

have you ever been to Honda parts connection in Sugar Hill? ...it's like a treasure chest for hondas!!!!!

No i havent but i think i need to be going sometime soon lol

91lowrider

03-05-2012, 10:29 AM

I got a 15psi pressure switch (autometer, 1/8" NPT) that I will attach to my T for extra safety. I have not installed it yet because I would install a pressure gauge - take a look at the other thread you post in 2geez for the parts I got.

As for precise pressure readings check the service manual.
I BELIEVE you may see 10-15 psi with a hot engine at idle, and 40-60 at about 3,000 rpm with hot engine.

Now with that 15psi switch wouldnt your light always be on? Has anyone installed one of these already, and does your light stay on? Also what part number is that switch? I went to autozone and they couldnt tell me a good one to put in besides the factory one that is 3-9psi reading. Advanced found one that was 5.5-9psi but thats not much better.

Autzone called tech support and they gave me this web address and told me to check it out find what i want and to call them back with the part number for priceing and availablitly. http://www.wellsve.com

ecogabriel

03-05-2012, 11:19 AM

have you ever been to Honda parts connection in Sugar Hill? ...it's like a treasure chest for hondas!!!!!

Never been there; sounds like a good idea

Oh you aint that far away lol. One these weekends you me and eco need to get together and go to the junkyard or somethin lol

Well, it is a LITTLE far away, but at least ATL has three pullaparts to look on.

if only you were closer...fuck it, I'm ordering the kit tonight and going balls to the wall one weekend this month :rockon:

It is not such a hard work; maybe it would be a good idea to get the oil stand gasket and replace it together with all the seals and belt. Plus we can meet where you are.

Now with that 15psi switch wouldnt your light always be on? Has anyone installed one of these already, and does your light stay on? Also what part number is that switch? I went to autozone and they couldnt tell me a good one to put in besides the factory one that is 3-9psi reading. Advanced found one that was 5.5-9psi but thats not much better.

Autzone called tech support and they gave me this web address and told me to check it out find what i want and to call them back with the part number for priceing and availablitly. http://www.wellsve.com

Possibly so at idle speed but I have not installed it yet; the light would come on at 15psi or lower and turn off at 18 psi.
But I would not mind to have the light coming on eventually; it would force me to look at the pressure gauge.... better safe than sorry.

I owed you the part # for the sensor - I'll check.

Tdurr

03-05-2012, 11:25 AM

All theses ATL 3geez ppl haha

91lowrider

03-05-2012, 02:34 PM

All theses ATL 3geez ppl haha

Oh yea lol

91lowrider

03-07-2012, 01:14 PM

I owed you the part # for the sensor - I'll check.

Were you ever able to figure out that part number? I was able to get my old pressure switch and filter base remove and all cleaned up. The old gasket was so old and hard as a rock it took a screwdriver and a hammer to chisel it off. My new gasket will be here tomorrow so i wanna be able to install everything and go for a test drive.

With these gas prices i need this car going. In my truck im spending a hundred a week in gas.

ecogabriel

03-07-2012, 02:21 PM

Were you ever able to figure out that part number? I was able to get my old pressure switch and filter base remove and all cleaned up. The old gasket was so old and hard as a rock it took a screwdriver and a hammer to chisel it off. My new gasket will be here tomorrow so i wanna be able to install everything and go for a test drive.

With these gas prices i need this car going. In my truck im spending a hundred a week in gas.

I posted it in your other thread - 2G oil pressure - and I even posted a link. You would need an adapter (BSP male/NPT female) to install whatever combination of switch + gauge you may like.

EDIT: somehow it never made it; here is another link with the part # (3241)
http://www.autoanything.com/gauges/65A4657A0A0.aspx

I got it cheaper on eBay (around $18 shipped)

91lowrider

03-07-2012, 03:58 PM

I posted it in your other thread - 2G oil pressure - and I even posted a link. You would need an adapter (BSP male/NPT female) to install whatever combination of switch + gauge you may like.

EDIT: somehow it never made it; here is another link with the part # (3241)
http://www.autoanything.com/gauges/65A4657A0A0.aspx

I got it cheaper on eBay (around $18 shipped)

Im searching for a adapter now. Trying to find a 90 degree elbow and a T fitting. Only found a straight adapter so far from msc but thats not what i want.

Bluntman

03-07-2012, 04:14 PM

Im searching for a adapter now. Trying to find a 90 degree elbow and a T fitting. Only found a straight adapter so far from msc but thats not what i want. I use Hillco Fasteners in my area. Look for a Fastener Company in your area or online. This is Hillco where I can go to in 2 minutes.http://hillcofasteners.com/default.aspx

91lowrider

03-07-2012, 04:24 PM

I use Hillco Fasteners in my area. Look for a Fastener Company in your area or online. This is Hillco where I can go to in 2 minutes.http://hillcofasteners.com/default.aspx

Thanks i forgot all about our Fastenal here in town. Im going to call them in the morning and see if they have what i want. Now wouldnt a T fitting come in the pack with a oil pressure gauge? If so that would be one less thing to buy. How hard is it to put in a oil temp sensor and gauge?

l0l

03-18-2012, 03:21 PM

Well I got the all of the seals changed along with the timing belt/tensioner/water pump and the bitch is still dripping oil from the bottom timing belt cover. Also, now there is a weird rattle noise when accelerating. Any ideas at this point?

l0l

03-18-2012, 07:29 PM

Im thinking the belt is too tight causing the tensioner to makes the rattle noise upon acceleration :dunno:

And has anyone ever heard of the oil pan gasket leaking onto the timing cover causing the appearance of a cam/crank seal leak?

As far as the oil pump seal i replaced the outer o ring and the middle seal that looks like it has a "S" shape in the middle. I didn't change the Inner most seal because I couldnt get the 3 Phillips screws off the pump.