Anyone do much with their power windows?

[DBMaster]

I have been having an intermittent issue for about a year now. At times, the drivers side power window will not roll down. I am reasonably sure the switch is fine because when I push it down I hear a clicking sound from inside the door just slightly forward of the switch. After a bit of repeated pressing, or a good slam of the door it will roll down. Before I go tearing into the inside of the door I wanted to see if anyone else has had a similar issue that they resolved.

Thanks!

My employer put in a new firewall and now I cannot access 3geez during the workday. They let people access Facebook and YouTube now, but not 3geez. Go figure.

[Bluntman]

My drivers side has snapped 2 of the crappy plastic mounts glued to the window over the years due to slow movement and binding over the years. Last time I had to cut out the regulator because the motor torque twisted the shit out of it. Just happened again after about a year with the new yard parts. I have noticed around the holes where the regulator motor bolts to the door there are stress cracks around the 3 mount holes that I have to weld. They are minor but they should not be there. They are from age and stress but not new I can tell. It looks as if it may be a common structural failure. Anyone seen these cracks while doing your electric motors/regulator. It has to be affecting it as far as minute flexing but have you guys seen the stress cracks by the mounting holes? And the plastic glued mounts on the windows are a big fail.

[mykwikcoupe]

I had a regulator fail a few years ago, it literally snapped in half and dropped the window in the door. My current hatch has 2 very slow motors. I haven't lubed them with HONDA silicone spray and I also noticed they will actually move when I have the car off idle and a higher voltage due to a failing alternator. I would as stated by you, pull the entire assembly out of the door, check it for any damages and lube everything from the regulator to the felt strips in the doors. You may also want to swap the motors for a replacement from a parts store, the brushes could be worn to shreds.

[Oldblueaccord]

My drivers side has snapped 2 of the crappy plastic mounts glued to the window over the years due to slow movement and binding over the years. Last time I had to cut out the regulator because the motor torque twisted the shit out of it. Just happened again after about a year with the new yard parts. I have noticed around the holes where the regulator motor bolts to the door there are stress cracks around the 3 mount holes that I have to weld. They are minor but they should not be there. They are from age and stress but not new I can tell. It looks as if it may be a common structural failure. Anyone seen these cracks while doing your electric motors/regulator. It has to be affecting it as far as minute flexing but have you guys seen the stress cracks by the mounting holes? And the plastic glued mounts on the windows are a big fail.


I pulled mine at a junkyard and noticed the same thing. The 3 bolts holes were cracked on every door I looked at. My car looked fine but I never force the window up and have used Silicone on the track.

Big thing is the motor magnets get week over time. I think rock auto has replacements fairly inexpensive,

Also, I learned this the hard way, the 3door and 4 door regulator parts are different. You can swap them around :rolleyes: but the new price of a 3door regulator is like double. The rail that goes on the window is longer because the window is longer on the bottom.

I practiced getting one out at the junkyard its not a
lot of fun. There's a position that the windows down that makes is easier to work on and get the window out if needed. There also a pos. that will get the window so jammed in the track you might consider bashing it out with a hammer. :naughty:


wp

[2drSE-i]

They are not fun to remove or install. I did it probably 6 times before I got it right last summer (I cleaned and lubed the motor, and it worked for a while longer...) It's best to replace the motor and regulator at the same time IMO.

[Keachman1]

Your driver's side window control module probably needs the connections re-soldered. Do a search on here, it's a common problem. It's located behind the driver's door panel in the middle, halfway up. Take the circuit board out and look for cracked solder joints and resolder them. Mine did the same thing and I fixed it by doing this. The driver side has a module that operates the automatic down function when lowering the window.

[import racer]

I thought only the drivers door had auto down.

[91lowrider]

Yes only the driver window has auto function. I wish both front windows had it like my silverado has. Such a great function.

[charliekuney]

I wish all four windows had automatic up and down features...

...but yeah, check the module in the driver's door.

[Keachman1]

Yes, the driver side is the only one that has this feature and that is the one he is having trouble with. I like this feature too and would like it on my other windows. I think I will get some modules from the jy and wire them up to my other windows so they all will have this feature. The module senses the current going to the window motor and turns the motor off when the motor stops turning. It shouldn't be too hard to wire the other winows to operate using these modules.

[obd0driver]

I wish all four windows had automatic up and down features...

...but yeah, check the module in the driver's door.


wouldn't you just nab 3 more auto function modules wire them up and get auto windows all around. I know its easier said then done when it come to wiring anything but sounds good?????

[DBMaster]

Intermittent has become frequent so I will be opening up the door this weekend. I am SO looking forward to that. NOT!

[SeanSelander]

My driver side window intermittently worked and didnt, so after a week of it being stuck down I decided to fix it. I took out the electric motor after about 15 minutes ( okay maybe 30 if you take the autozone run into account. I forgot the size of the screwdriver I bought but it was about the size of my lower arm)

There were pieces of burnt ass gum all over the damn thing...I didn't now what to think of it.

At least I can push the window up now haha

[DBMaster]

I am almost positive it is the control unit. My motor, regulator, everything look clean. If I rap on the side of the control box the window will eventually operate. It does not appear that I can get into the control unit (United Technologies, made is USA) without breaking open the box so I'll check for a new or used one. It was number 2 in the diagnostic chart right after the fuse. Switch is fine, too.

[DBMaster]

I found a new control unit on eBay. Kind of expensive, but cheaper than from Honda when they were available. I prefer to buy a brand new one. I managed to get the board out of my original unit. The solder joints look perfect. I think I'll just call it a day.

[Dr_Snooz]

If banging on the door makes it work, I would guess the brushes in your window motor are gone.

[DBMaster]

Since I have been the only owner of this car I know that my windows have been operated less than average. I am reasonably sure the control unit is the issue here. Since I already bought it I am committed. I'll report back when it's been long enough to say the problem is fixed.

[Vanilla Sky]

I was going to offer up the one I have. They are like our main relays and suffer from cold solder joints. I've opened them up before and reflowed the solder for flawless operation.

[DBMaster]

Thanks, V.S. I actually thought about replacing the two little white "boxes" on the board, but I could not find any references to what they were after doing searches on the various groups of numbers printed on them. As with my relay, I often prefer to slap a new one in and not think about it for another twenty years.

[DBMaster]

Too bad the control I bought was "no returns accepted." Since I got the thing I went ahead and installed it and put my door back together. The power windows work the way they are supposed to now. Too bad the car is a loss. At least this way when I try to sell it as a project or parts the interior will be as represented, spotless.

I doubt anyone out there but me would pay $95 for a power window control, anyway.

[POS carb]

Yes only the driver window has auto function. I wish both front windows had it like my silverado has. Such a great function.


I wish all four windows had automatic up and down features...

...but yeah, check the module in the driver's door.

Both my front doors go auto up and down using OEM parts :Owned2:

I'll have to make a writeup on this, it's not hard