Remove speedometer cable on TRANSMISSION end

[Brennan]

Trying to pull out the transmission on my 89 LX-i (5 speed manual) and one of the steps says to "Remove bolt securing speedometer drive holder and pull assembly out of transmission".

I got the 10MM bolt out from underneath. Do I now just yank on the assembly? Also, is it necessary to remove the power steering lines (I believe that's what they are) that are attached?

Please help, this is bugging the crap out of me and I need this transmission out! :) Thanks!

[ecogabriel]

There is a o-ring that prevents leaks that most likely is keeping it in its place.

Wiggle the assembly back and forth to loosen it while pulling it up.You may not need to remove the p/s lines.

[91lowrider]

Where is it located on your tranny? I need to remove mine also. Speedo not working. Everything i have read says to pull the steering lines and pull the ss straight up.

[Brennan]

Where is it located on your tranny? I need to remove mine also. Speedo not working. Everything i have read says to pull the steering lines and pull the ss straight up.

At the back, follow the long, thick cable and it has a rubber cap over it at the transmission entrance. I can snap a photo if you like. @gabriel: I'm going to try that, maybe it's just stuck. Thanks for the advice!

I kinda wish the manual was a little more detailed (read: more pictures) buuut can't have everything we want right?

[Tdurr]

Just leave the speed sensor hooked up, and disconnect the cable from tranny.

[91lowrider]

At the back, follow the long, thick cable and it has a rubber cap over it at the transmission entrance. I can snap a photo if you like.

I kinda wish the manual was a little more detailed (read: more pictures) buuut can't have everything we want right?

Yea if you have a pic that would be great.

X2 on the manual needing more detailed info and pics.

[lostforawhile]

Pull the wire clip on the cable assemb ly at the tranny end,DON'T LOSE IT, pull the cable out of the gear assembly, leave the assembly in place

[ecogabriel]

Pull the wire clip on the cable assemb ly at the tranny end,DON'T LOSE IT, pull the cable out of the gear assembly, leave the assembly in place

x2; don't lose that clip. I lost mine and have not found another one yet...

[88lxi-shortram]

if u do remove the cable dont lose the clip. but i would try to rmove the sensor first... the cable is a headache on reinstall

[A18A]

^this

[91lowrider]

What kind of clip is it? Does it take a special tool to remove? I really need to fix my speedometer.

[A18A]

oh in that case you most likely will end up having to pull it off. you can pull it off with your fingers. the clip is easy to lose

[91lowrider]

oh in that case you most likely will end up having to pull it off. you can pull it off with your fingers. the clip is easy to lose

How big is the clip? Is it made of plastic? Would it break?

[A18A]

just a small metal clip, you'll see it when you pull the rubber cover thing over the cable/speed sensor

[91lowrider]

Now i will just have to trace down the speedo cable and the rubber cover. I had my torque converter replaced and now my speedo, odometer and cruise control dont work.

[DBMaster]

Here is something of interest. New speed sensors have the clip pre-installed with the rubber boot over it. You do need to pull up the rubber boot and yank the clip to REMOVE the cable. When you want to put it back just put the clip back in and push the rubber boot down over it (like donning a condom). The cable will simply "snap" back in. You do not have to put the cable in first. I made this mistake, believe me. Try it and you'll be pleasantly surprised.

[Dr_Snooz]

Just leave the speed sensor hooked up, and disconnect the cable from tranny.


Pull the wire clip on the cable assemb ly at the tranny end,DON'T LOSE IT, pull the cable out of the gear assembly, leave the assembly in place

Um... there are P/S lines connected to the speed sensor as well, so that's not the method I would use. You'll be better off removing the unit via the method in the manual than to pull the cable and P/S lines. Getting the cable back in the slot is something of a challenge and you usually don't realize that it's not right until you have everything back together and find that the speedo doesn't work.

You can pry on the assembly, gently, if you need to.

[Brennan]

Um... there are P/S lines connected to the speed sensor as well, so that's not the method I would use. You'll be better off removing the unit via the method in the manual than to pull the cable and P/S lines. Getting the cable back in the slot is something of a challenge and you usually don't realize that it's not right until you have everything back together and find that the speedo doesn't work.

You can pry on the assembly, gently, if you need to.

Thanks everyone. I appreciate the help, I really do.

@91lowrider: Do you have an automatic? Might be in a different place than on mine which is manual.

This thing is driving me nuts - it's basically what's stopping me from getting the transmission out! I took out one bolt from underneath (the 10 MM one) as the manual said and that's as far as I can get. I've pulled on the assembly pretty much as hard as I can, I tried a little to pry at it but carefully so as not to break anything.

From the looks of it there's another bolt, opposite where the first one was but I see no way to remove it since it's right against the transmission casing. Am I crazy or just missing something? Of course I may be wrong about that second bolt but man this is annoying! Help?

[lostforawhile]

Thanks everyone. I appreciate the help, I really do.

@91lowrider: Do you have an automatic? Might be in a different place than on mine which is manual.

This thing is driving me nuts - it's basically what's stopping me from getting the transmission out! I took out one bolt from underneath (the 10 MM one) as the manual said and that's as far as I can get. I've pulled on the assembly pretty much as hard as I can, I tried a little to pry at it but carefully so as not to break anything.

From the looks of it there's another bolt, opposite where the first one was but I see no way to remove it since it's right against the transmission casing. Am I crazy or just missing something? Of course I may be wrong about that second bolt but man this is annoying! Help?
the lines don't need to come lose. the cable pulls straight out, if it won't go back in, you turn the end a little and try again,eventually it will drop right in.

[Brennan]

the lines don't need to come lose. the cable pulls straight out, if it won't go back in, you turn the end a little and try again,eventually it will drop right in.

Sorry I didn't mention I'm trying to fully remove the transmission (needs replacing..) - if I leave those lines attached won't they get ripped off when I take the transmission out? Thanks!

[91lowrider]

Yea mines a automatic.

[lostforawhile]

Sorry I didn't mention I'm trying to fully remove the transmission (needs replacing..) - if I leave those lines attached won't they get ripped off when I take the transmission out? Thanks!

Just clamp them off and disconnect them all they do is act as a signal to tell the power steering rack to reduce assist as you go faster, there's a pump in the speedometer gear assembly

[ecogabriel]

Just clamp them off and disconnect them all they do is act as a signal to tell the power steering rack to reduce assist as you go faster, there's a pump in the speedometer gear assembly

x2. Plus remove the speedometer cable and DO NOT lose the cable clip.

[Brennan]

Ok, I'll try this in a bit when I get back home. Thanks guys!

[Dr_Snooz]

This thing is driving me nuts - it's basically what's stopping me from getting the transmission out! I took out one bolt from underneath (the 10 MM one) as the manual said and that's as far as I can get. I've pulled on the assembly pretty much as hard as I can, I tried a little to pry at it but carefully so as not to break anything.

From the looks of it there's another bolt, opposite where the first one was but I see no way to remove it since it's right against the transmission casing. Am I crazy or just missing something? Of course I may be wrong about that second bolt but man this is annoying! Help?

I don't think you have removed the right bolt. The speed sensor bolt is on top and there is only one.

[ecogabriel]

I don't think you have removed the right bolt. The speed sensor bolt is on top and there is only one.

I was thinking the same, but doubted my mental state when reading it.... that, and that I have not seen the manual trans speed sensor.

[91lowrider]

Would it be in different places on the auto manual tranny?

[pickupman6]

Here's a pic of the bolt you need to take out

http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m592/pickupman6/3GEEZ/IMG-20120321-00047.jpg?t=1332388811

[A18A]

did you dig that gearbox up from under the ground lol

[pickupman6]

Lol no that's the one I just broke. I used to go mudding on my car back before I cared about the car. Managed to get it all pretty dirty.

[A18A]

must've went through a fair bit of mud to get it that dirty!

[pickupman6]

You have no idea.

[Brennan]

This is very nice car. I like this car.

Yeah, I think there's plenty of love for these cars around here. :)

Alright, so I got my transmission out by myself, carefully and slowly. I did find that bolt on top but couldn't get a long enough extension all the way down there so I just took out the cable clip (lift the rubber shroud, pull off the clip, super easy), removed the power steering lines, and took the transmission down. (BTW, if you need an extra clip let me know since I have like 3 now :P)

I tried to take out the speed sensor after that but no luck...it seems stuck in there really well, so I'm going to use the one that came with the transmission I bought.

I have one last question, and this is important - is there a difference between an 86 and an 89 transmission? Because it seems like some of the stuff doesn't want to match up with this (apparently) 1986 transmission I bought. (The guy gave me the wrong one to begin with, I brought it back and they pulled this one for me. Yes, I told them about 10 times 1989 Accord LX-i....).

Does someone know if they are the same? 86 and 89 transmissions that is.

Thanks for the help guys, you're awesome!!

[pickupman6]

I know the input shafts on some of them are different. But I think you should be able to use it if you change the pilot bearing. There are a bunch of different 5 speeds. my lxi apparently had a transmission swap before I got it cause it had a dx/lx trans in it. I was geting 34-38 mpg. Now that I have an lxi trans back in it I only get 29-33. Here's a list of the different transmissions for our cars.
http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=35970

[Brennan]

Weird...why would you get better MPG with a lower model transmission? Maybe I just don't understand :P

Ok, well I'm going to go try to make it fit. You mention the pilot bearing...can you help me out here? I have no clue what to look for. Is this near the throwout bearing? Sorry, still learning and honestly never thought I'd be replacing the transmission on my DD in my driveway haha.

Worst case scenario, I got back and tell them to pull the right transmission for me.

[pickupman6]

Carbed cars have higher gearing than fi cars do. The pilot bearing is in the center of the end of the crankshaft or center of the flywheel, idk cause I never messed with it. Some of the transmissions have a bigger end on them and won't fit int the smaller pilot bearing. I'm just assuming you could get one from the parts store. I just looked in the manual but didn't see anything about it. Am I wrong on this fellas?

[lostforawhile]

all of the transmissions are interchangeable, the one you want is from the second gen prelude, it has the best gearing out of all of them. you might want to leave the speed sensor in that came with the transmission, it will be geared different for the slightly different final drive ratio, the output to the speedometer head will be the same though.

[pickupman6]

I disagree. I know for a fact some of them have a different input shaft. I found one that had a much bigger end on it.

[Brennan]

Carbed cars have higher gearing than fi cars do. The pilot bearing is in the center of the end of the crankshaft or center of the flywheel, idk cause I never messed with it. Some of the transmissions have a bigger end on them and won't fit int the smaller pilot bearing. I'm just assuming you could get one from the parts store. I just looked in the manual but didn't see anything about it. Am I wrong on this fellas?

So if you're going for fuel economy, then higher gearing is what you want I assume? Does that basically mean faster car at lower RPMs?

It just started raining here in So Cal :hmph: Guess I'll be waiting to finish haha.

[pickupman6]

Yes a higher gear will give you better mpgs, but a lower gear will make it quicker, not necessarily faster.

[lostforawhile]

I disagree. I know for a fact some of them have a different input shaft. I found one that had a much bigger end on it.

all of the A20 manual transmissions have the same input shaft, people have been swapping all years of them and 2nd gen lude ones for years with no issues

[Brennan]

all of the A20 manual transmissions have the same input shaft, people have been swapping all years of them and 2nd gen lude ones for years with no issues

Input shaft being the splined thing the throwout bearing slides down right?

[lostforawhile]

Input shaft being the splined thing the throwout bearing slides down right?

right on the transmission end. the engine end is the flywheel with the pressure plate and disc bolted to it. the splines have to slide into the clutch disc splines.this is why you use the alignment tool when you bolt the pressure plate down. the entire A series use the same input shaft splines, same clutch parts, same bell housing etc.

[pickupman6]

:facepalm::facepalm:Well I guess the one I pulled out of an 89 must have been a one of a kind because it was definitly different. Thank you for clearing that up. :facepalm:

[lostforawhile]

:facepalm::facepalm:Well I guess the one I pulled out of an 89 must have been a one of a kind because it was definitly different. Thank you for clearing that up. :facepalm:

I don't know what you got but they are the same,

[Brennan]

Awesome...see? I'm getting this stuff.. haha

So my transmission says A2Q6 which means those dumbasses gave me, yet again, the wrong year (1986, not 89). Here's what I'm looking for - best MPG / performance combo that's going to fit straight in. I never considered putting a different model / year than stock but if it's tried and true from so many others I'll bite. :) As long as you guys are sure, which it sounds like...I just don't want to have any more problems!

With that in mind...from the list posted here (http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=35970) what would be the best one to try and find?

I'm going to head BACK to the junkyard tomorrow to get the right one. Probably tell them by code this time, you think?

[pickupman6]

Yeah I don't know either. It was for a friends car. He had an 86 and lost 3rd. I went to the jy with him to pull another one, and when we got back we spent an hour trying to get it to go back in his car.finally we compared the two and the shafts were definitly different. The end of the input shaft was almost twice as big as the one that came out of his car. We called it a night. 3 weeks later I asked him if he ever figured anything out about it, and he scrapped the car. Man I woulda bought that thing.

[lostforawhile]

Awesome...see? I'm getting this stuff.. haha

So my transmission says A2Q6 which means those dumbasses gave me, yet again, the wrong year (1986, not 89). Here's what I'm looking for - best MPG / performance combo that's going to fit straight in. I never considered putting a different model / year than stock but if it's tried and true from so many others I'll bite. :) As long as you guys are sure, which it sounds like...I just don't want to have any more problems!

With that in mind...from the list posted here (http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=35970) what would be the best one to try and find?

I'm going to head BACK to the junkyard tomorrow to get the right one. Probably tell them by code this time, you think?if you can find one get the 2nd gen lude one, it will have the same a20 engine in it, you will recognize it, you might lose a little bit of fuel economy but everyone on here who has gotten one loves it. I would like to find one myself and have it overhauled

[Brennan]

if you can find one get the 2nd gen lude one, it will have the same a20 engine in it, you will recognize it, you might lose a little bit of fuel economy but everyone on here who has gotten one loves it. I would like to find one myself and have it overhauled

Yeah, if a lot of people are seeking them out, might be hard to find.

So the one I'm looking for would be the A2K5, not the D2J5 or the D2J3 right? My junkyard pulls them for you so I won't be able to see the engine. I want to be able to tell them EXACTLY what to look for because I know they'll fuck it up again if I don't.

My next choice, if the Lude isn't available, would be the E2R5 (89 LXi), and then the E2R6 (89 DX/LX) in order of preference, right? If I put the E2R6 in, I would get better fuel economy though correct?

Sorry for all the questions, want to get this right :)

[lostforawhile]

Yeah, if a lot of people are seeking them out, might be hard to find.

So the one I'm looking for would be the A2K5, not the D2J5 or the D2J3 right? My junkyard pulls them for you so I won't be able to see the engine. I want to be able to tell them EXACTLY what to look for because I know they'll fuck it up again if I don't.

My next choice, if the Lude isn't available, would be the E2R5 (89 LXi), and then the E2R6 (89 DX/LX) in order of preference, right? If I put the E2R6 in, I would get better fuel economy though correct?

Sorry for all the questions, want to get this right :)crap I don't know the part number of the lude one, you might be able to find it in search, can you ask to see the engine before they pull it?

[Brennan]

You think a newbie does?? haha..

I was referencing that post by pickupman:


86-87 DX & LX....A2Q6
88 DX & LX.........E2Q6
89 DX & LX.........E2R6
86-87 LXi...........A2Q5
88 LXi................E2Q5
89 LXi................E2R5

85-87 Prelude FI.....A2K5
88 Prelude 2.0 Si......D2J5
89 Prelude 2.0 Si......D2J3

86-89 Integra..........CG


86-87 Accord/Vigor 2.0SI (B20A)........ B2K5
88-89 Accord/Vigor 2.0SI (B20A)........ F2K5

Mine says it clearly on top of the transmission what part number it is. Does this help you see what I mean?

[pickupman6]

Yes the a2k5 is the one he was talking about. If this is a dailiy driver I would stick with one from a carbed car. I liked my old trans much better.

[Brennan]

Yes the a2k5 is the one he was talking about. If this is a dailiy driver I would stick with one from a carbed car. I liked my old trans much better.

That's what it sounds like my best option would be, as I use the car for deliveries and I would love to see that kind of fuel savings. I do like to drive kinda fast at times, no problem there from your experiences?

[pickupman6]

Nah from carb to fi there isn't much of a difference in performance, however with a fi trans at 3k I'm running about 70, with a carb trans I was running about 79 at 3k.

[Brennan]

Sounds good, if no one has any objections that's what I'll be looking for tomorrow :)

[lostforawhile]

make sure the speedometer gear is with it, like I said the gear on the sender is different for the different final drives in the tranny, but the output through the cable is the same, the gears in the sender compensate for the difference

[Brennan]

make sure the speedometer gear is with it, like I said the gear on the sender is different for the different final drives in the tranny, but the output through the cable is the same, the gears in the sender compensate for the difference

Alright, will do. The one I got before they just chopped off the line from the engine so I'm assuming the replacement will be the same. Besides that, no reason not to go with carb'd? I would LOVE to see an increase in MPG..

[Dr_Snooz]

If you can get an 86 trans that works, put it in. They have a slightly different case, but the innards and bolt pattern are exactly the same. They use the same case gaskets and rebuild kits. MT's are getting scarce and the ones that are left are usually fubarred. If the trans works when you get it in, thank your stars and drive happy. If you nitpick, you're probably going to end up with no transmission at all.

[Brennan]

If you can get an 86 trans that works, put it in. They have a slightly different case, but the innards and bolt pattern are exactly the same. They use the same case gaskets and rebuild kits. MT's are getting scarce and the ones that are left are usually fubarred. If the trans works when you get it in, thank your stars and drive happy. If you nitpick, you're probably going to end up with no transmission at all.

Well I got lucky I guess. They found a carb'd 89 for me and pulled the transmission. :)

The speed sensor on the 89 has one power steering line port broken off, but I snagged the sensor from the 86 before I returned it (and the 86 was carb'd since they only made carb'd that year, right?). The guy even let me have all the bolts and some other parts since he pulled it straight off an engine. haha...I'm happy.

[pickupman6]

Nah they had lxis in 86. I think even the 85 sei was fi

[Brennan]

Nah they had lxis in 86. I think even the 85 sei was fi

Oh ok, nevermind. The speed sensor should work just fine though you think?

[ecogabriel]

Nah they had lxis in 86. I think even the 85 sei was fi

x2...

[pickupman6]

Yes it should work fine. I don't see why they would be different. The ring that it rides on is on the differential so it should be the same from carb to fi. There's no reason for them to be different, even though the the trans have a different final drive.

[Dr_Snooz]

Well I got lucky I guess. They found a carb'd 89 for me and pulled the transmission. :)

The speed sensor on the 89 has one power steering line port broken off, but I snagged the sensor from the 86 before I returned it (and the 86 was carb'd since they only made carb'd that year, right?). The guy even let me have all the bolts and some other parts since he pulled it straight off an engine. haha...I'm happy.

Don't count your chickens before they've hatched. That trans isn't in and working reliably yet.

[Brennan]

It's in and I drove it several blocks and it feels fine. I need to adjust the free play in the clutch cable (and teach myself how to drive stick again cause I've been borrowing my dad's automatic) but besides that it's a success :)

One last thing... I only had Mobil 1 5-30 on hand so I filled it with that. Not gonna harm it right? Full synthetic, and the high mileage formula so I thought why not? :)

[obdriver6]

It shouldn't be a problem! I use regular 10w 40 Mobil 1

[Dr_Snooz]

Nice work. If you don't lose fifth in the next year, you'll be doing well.

[lostforawhile]

It's in and I drove it several blocks and it feels fine. I need to adjust the free play in the clutch cable (and teach myself how to drive stick again cause I've been borrowing my dad's automatic) but besides that it's a success :)

One last thing... I only had Mobil 1 5-30 on hand so I filled it with that. Not gonna harm it right? Full synthetic, and the high mileage formula so I thought why not? :)

you shouldn't run full synthetic in a manual, theres not enough friction to let the syncronizers work right, it's actually too slippery

[ecogabriel]

you shouldn't run full synthetic in a manual, theres not enough friction to let the syncronizers work right, it's actually too slippery


Would synchromesh work on those boxes? :rockon:

I am using it in my 5G Civic and I am happy with it. However, it costs almost the same as Honda MTF, although synchro is easier to get - I do not have to go to the dealer to buy it :kekeke:

[lostforawhile]

Would synchromesh work on those boxes? :rockon:

I am using it in my 5G Civic and I am happy with it. However, it costs almost the same as Honda MTF, although synchro is easier to get - I do not have to go to the dealer to buy it :kekeke:
I've heard that several people have had success with it, it's for manual gearboxes and has the friction additives to make the syncros work right

[ecogabriel]

I've heard that several people have had success with it, it's for manual gearboxes and has the friction additives to make the syncros work right

I have heard it is gentle with yellow metal (synchros) :rockon:

[Brennan]

Ok, I'll drain it and get something different ASAP (read: when I get paid :P)

What's recommended? Redline MTF or ...? I could go crazy and get Royal Purple SynchroMax :kekeke:

Damn, I never thought I'd love this car :)

PS-Dr_Snooz I have the 4-door version of your sig, same color.

[lostforawhile]

Ok, I'll drain it and get something different ASAP (read: when I get paid :P)

What's recommended? Redline MTF or ...? I could go crazy and get Royal Purple SynchroMax :kekeke:

Damn, I never thought I'd love this car :)

PS-Dr_Snooz I have the 4-door version of your sig, same color.just get regular GM syncromesh at the auto parts store, these trannys originally used motor oil, but I believe the Honda fluid supersedes that recommendation now, the syncromesh will work just as well and isn't as expensive

[POS carb]

I've run Valvoline Racing 20-50 in the summer to Mobile Delvac diesel 10-40 in the mild winter.
Look what came out after 250,000 miles
http://carphotos2.cardomain.com/images/0015/48/35/15698453_large.jpg
bad mounts and diff bearing is what finally did it in. all the bearings except on the diff were smooth as new. 5th still looks healthy.
Just keep the oil clean.

[pickupman6]

all of the A20 manual transmissions have the same input shaft, people have been swapping all years of them and 2nd gen lude ones for years with no issues

Stumbled across this, checking out some old threads
http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=35089
http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=45338

Looks like I'm not making this stuff up. I'm not the only one who has noticed the difference. Sorry for bringing back an old thread just to say I told ya so;)

[Dr_Snooz]

This same issue came up in another thread too. This (http://www.3geez.com/forum/showpost.php?p=536281&postcount=5)is the interesting post in the thread for me. Unfortunately, I can't verify the claim. Looking at part numbers on Majestic's site, the parts (flywheel, pressure plate, friction disc and mainshaft) all seem to be exactly the same across all years. I'm not sure how to explain the difficulties that those two threads describe. I do know that if you go to any wrecking yard, the 86/87 transmissions (A2Q5's) are considered bolt-on replacements for the 88/89 transmissions (E2R5's) and vice versa. The rebuild kit is the same for both. The shops could be wrong, of course. So whatever.

I rebuilt the AT on my '82 Accord many moons ago. I installed it and went for my first drive. It ran great. The next day, I noticed a slight tapping sound coming from the trans. Over the next few days, the tapping became a loud and noisy clattering and then a fierce fluid leak that blew a quart a week under the car and left a smoke trail behind me. I pulled the trans a few weeks later and found a bad seal. I also found the tops of my drive plate bolts skinned off and an ugly, radial crack in the drive plate. I had no idea what had happened until I found a mashed alignment dowel in the bell housing on the block. When installing the first time, I had somehow gotten the dowel caught between the block and trans and then crushed it while tightening the mounting bolts. Having it there pushed out the trans on one side by about 1/16". Very little, but enough to put everything out of alignment, flexing the drive plate to breaking point, causing the bolts to hit the block, breaking a seal and otherwise making a real mess of things.

No, I don't have Alzheimer's. The point of this rambling trip down memory lane is that there are all kinds of ways to mess up a big repair, and I say this as someone who has discovered more than his fair share. Sometimes, you know why and other times you can only guess. There are a few guys saying that the mainshaft does not fit into the crank on some transmissions, but there is almost no way to prove this conclusively. If you are bolting up the trans and it doesn't quite go on all the way, you cannot see what is preventing it from seating fully. You can only guess.

When I did my MT swap, I had the most amazingly difficult time of getting the transmission to seat fully against the block. I pushed and pulled and pried and shoved and cursed and swore and it simply would not go. I fought it for a couple days before buying a proper transmission jack that would hold the transmission at precisely the right angle for proper mounting. When I had the transmission at the right angle, it slipped on like butter. Maybe these guys are hitting the mainshaft on the crank, or maybe they are having other problems. It's hard to say for sure.

Again, I don't know.

[pickupman6]

Snooz, just to be clear I'm not trying to start a fight with you and lost just trying to clear this up. I wish I had a picture of what I found but that was years ago, so unfortunately I don't. But I know what I saw, it was machined that way. Not only was it bigger around it was just slightly longer. I'm not old so I probably don't have as much experience year wise as you do, I'm 28 and I've been working on cars since I was 12. I know what I'm doing and I know what I saw, and apparently I am not the only one so I'm not crazy (at least I don't think so) I'm not saying that the trans won't fit because even if there is a pilot bushing (which seems to not be common on these cars, yet both of mine have one) it can be removed to make room for the bigger input shaft end. Btw I was lucky when I changed out my trans, it only weighs like 100 lbs so I put it in by hand and it slid right in no problem. Again not trying to start anything with yall, your car is beautiful and tims is, well different, he is very creative.

[Dr_Snooz]

Sorry, I should clarify. I'm not questioning your mechanical ability or saying you're wrong or that I'm better than you (I'm saying the opposite, actually). It's just that we've had people recently calling all over town looking for pilot bushings and turning down good trannies believing that they won't fit. I know that some people have found bushings and different shaped mainshaft ends and I'm not questioning that. I was just trying to point out that experience is atypical and hasn't been well-documented with pics, caliper measurements, etc. Officially, the trannies are made of the same parts and there shouldn't be any problems swapping them. I didn't mean any offense and I probably should have stated as much. Sorry.

[lostforawhile]

all of the A20 series have the same block, why would they change the transmission when the block is the same? it doesn't mater if it's the prelude or the accord with this series, the only difference would be internal with the slightly different final drive ratios, thats why you need the original speedometer sender that came with that transmission, the driven gear teeth match whatever final drive is in the transmission

[pickupman6]

Snooz, I have read enough threads on here to know you weren't trying to be disrespectful, you are, from what I have seen, a pretty good guy who is always willing to help, so no worries, there. I figured that either input shaft would work if you change out the pilot bushing (that is if your car is eqipped with one.) Both of mine were so I didn't know it was comon for them not to have them. I just discoved that the other night when I was browsing through some old threads. Then I got to digging and found that I'm not the only one to find a different input shaft. So I just thought I would bring it up here, to bring it to attention. My op on the subject was asking if you could just change pilot bushing, and then tim said they were all the same. I knew they weren't, what I didn't know was that not all thes cars have pilot bushings. This is my first honda that I have owned long enough to have to work on it, I have always owned fords and chevys and I work on tractors and big rigs, and they all have pilot bushings or bearings.
Once again, not trying to cause trouble and I know you're not either. There is no hard feelings here. Especially not towards you mr snooz. I just went back through this thread, and I don't see where you even posted on the input shaft, so my apologies for tagging you in the "I told you so" post.

[pickupman6]

The block has nothing to do with the input shaft, and the speed sensor has nothing to do with what gear ratio you have. It is driven off the differential housing after the final drive ratio. It is spinning 1:1 with your wheels. I already pulled mine out and compared the two after I posted it shouldn't matter which you use, and just as I suspected they are identical even though one came from a carbed trans and one came from a fi trans. If you like I could pull it back out and take a picture for you. I'm going to be adjusting the valves and doing an oil change tomorrow so its not too much of a problem.

[pickupman6]

Or I could take a pic of the differential to show you the speed sensor rides on a ring gear that is wrapped around the differntial body. Its in my bedroom in a rubbermaid tub. I got my old trans tore down for spare parts.

[pickupman6]

Its not like a truck with the speed sensor in the transmission. It is however like a ford truck with the speed sensor in the rearend. It doesn't matter if it has a 3.08 in it originally and you swap in 4.56 gears, the speedometer is still right.

[pickupman6]

http://pbr1133.photobucket.com/albums/m592/pickupman6/IMG-20120620-00023.jpg?t=1340252762
As you can see there would be no reason to have different speed sensors.

[lostforawhile]

The block has nothing to do with the input shaft, and the speed sensor has nothing to do with what gear ratio you have. It is driven off the differential housing after the final drive ratio. It is spinning 1:1 with your wheels. I already pulled mine out and compared the two after I posted it shouldn't matter which you use, and just as I suspected they are identical even though one came from a carbed trans and one came from a fi trans. If you like I could pull it back out and take a picture for you. I'm going to be adjusting the valves and doing an oil change tomorrow so its not too much of a problem.

the transmissions use the same bell housings that attach to the same block, the manuals use the same flywheels and the automatics use the same flexplates and torque converters, why would the input shaft be different on one? Honda isn't going to spend a bunch of money engineering a few oddball input shafts when the rest of the assemblies are the same throughout the series

[pickupman6]

I NEVER said that the transmission housings were different. I did say that some of the input shafts are different. I am not the only one who has noticed this either I posted 2 links to people who found different input shafts. I'm sure there are more. Maybe I will go searching tomorrow. And dr snooz posted a link that said not all mt flywheels are the same. Did you even look at any of the links I posted. I have been pretty dang patient with you, but its starting to wear thin. I simply asked a question about the difference about the two DIFFERENT input shafts that I found and at least 2 other people have. Why does honda do a lot of things they do? Who knows but the fact is there are two different input shafts whether you choose to believe it or not. Don't worry though while you were busy thinking I'm stupid, or that I'm lying about what I saw, I found the answer to my question. I only had to go back 8 years to find it. Btw did you get up with that member about the mirrors.

[pickupman6]

Another one.
http://www.3geez.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1097787&postcount=6
Original to that one.
http://www.3geez.com/forum/showpost.php?p=415225&postcount=7
He has over 9000 post but I guess he doesn't know anything either huh.
Another
http://www.3geez.com/forum/showpost.php?p=835149&postcount=1
Another
http://www.3geez.com/forum/showpost.php?p=852368&postcount=4