orientation of charcol canister

[lostforawhile]

does anyone know if the canister can be turned sideways? I thought about cleaning up some of the excess braided lines under my hood, and moving the canister under the car by the tank. I was going to roll a piece of stainless steel to protect it from flying road crap. I picked up one of the ones at the yard with the metal mounting bracket that clamps around it, so mounting is easy, I already have vacuum near the back of the car from my storage tank, I would simply mount the control valves I built under my seat or something. I was going to use the original hose from the tank into the canister as factory, then use the metal line to the front as the purge line to the intake manifold. this hides the entire thing and gets rid of a bunch of lines. I decided to just vent the carbs to the air cleaners.

[cygnus x-1]

does anyone know if the canister can be turned sideways?

I don't see why not.



I decided to just vent the carbs to the air cleaners.


Why not just vent the tank to the air cleaner as well? With carbs you aren't sending heated fuel back to the tank, so there won't be as much vaporization going on.

C|

[lostforawhile]

I don't see why not.





Why not just vent the tank to the air cleaner as well? With carbs you aren't sending heated fuel back to the tank, so there won't be as much vaporization going on.

C|
well it's a sealed tank, and if you've ever had a canister problem on one of these the entire car will reek of fuel, besides with what gas costs today and the summer heat here,you are talking a lot of fuel evaporating. it's really easy to hook the canister itself up, I got one from a FI car, so one hose to the tank,one hose to the intake manifold, both of those hoses are already there, and a vacuum signal causes it to purge, before the electronic controls the purge vacuum used to come from the pcv valve line, but I thought about using a recycled solenoid from the old emissions box, the existing 5 mph signal from the speedometer head, and the thermo switch on the back of the block. the engine would have to be warmed up, and you would have to be moving over 5 mph, so the fuel vapors in the intake wouldn't throw off your idle. I could also use a simple rpm window switch so it only purged above say 2500 rpm,instead of the other stuff

[lostforawhile]

Ok major update, the canister is on the front cross member,it's in,it's plumbed.

this is how it now will work, the canister line to the tank,and the purge control line,now route around the oil cooler and through the fender area, they exit at the end of the fender through this neat little transition here

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b205/moultriemanicmechanic/550707_10151063715422018_1695847937_n.jpg

the tank line will loop right back into the cowl and cross to the other end hidden inside of it. the purge control will go to a hidden solenoid valve in the cowl, then exit back out and to the pcv vacuum on the catch can, I'm using the thermosensor on the block to control the valve. The actual purge line goes to intake manifold vacuum,since it's close to the dizzy, I'm going to make something to attach that line, and the dizzy advance line both too. The nice thing is almost this entire system is hidden

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b205/moultriemanicmechanic/dadlostat11011.jpg
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http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b205/moultriemanicmechanic/dadlostat11004.jpg
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