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View Full Version : Best Torque Wrench?



vteckiller
05-04-2012, 05:52 PM
As stated, in your opinion what is the best type of torque wrench, the Click style, the digital beep style? and of course they have the needle style which i find to be harder than hell to read. So moral of the story i guess is.. i bought a snap-on digital read/beep style and im thinking i should have gotten the Click Style.. What is your guy's/girl's Opinion? Also.. do the click style still allow you to torque past the Specified amount even though its clicking? or the click basically tells you stop? cause my digital will beep and i can still torque past.

stephensimmons
05-04-2012, 06:29 PM
As stated, in your opinion what is the best type of torque wrench, the Click style, the digital beep style? and of course they have the needle style which i find to be harder than hell to read. So moral of the story i guess is.. i bought a snap-on digital read/beep style and im thinking i should have gotten the Click Style.. What is your guy's/girl's Opinion? Also.. do the click style still allow you to torque past the Specified amount even though its clicking? or the click basically tells you stop? cause my digital will beep and i can still torque past.

Yes you can torque past even after it clicks.

AccordEpicenter
05-04-2012, 07:35 PM
click style is fastest and easiest to use imo. In any event you should use a torque wrench in nice slow fluid motions, no jerky or bouncy motion. That will kill accuracy

vteckiller
05-04-2012, 07:49 PM
Right, don't jerk, bounce.. Smooth action only, i got the thing for $110, its a $250 torque wrench and when i used it it beeps but when i checked the rating some of them showed like 10-15 pounds more, guess i need more practice with it, i've personally never owned a torque wrench and finally said shit for $110 i can't go wrong! thanks guys for your opinions.. its a snap-on 25-250 pound rating..

A20A1
05-05-2012, 01:53 PM
I own a $80 Craftsman 1/2" drive TQ Wrench, bought it on sale for $40, it doesn't even click it just slips when you reach the setting. Can't say much for it's durability/accuracy. I'll probably get something better when I can afford it.

lostforawhile
05-05-2012, 03:34 PM
the beam type wrenches are good for certain things, the advantage of them is they basically never go out of calibration, I'm talking about a good one not a china special, the clicker are good when you can't see the top of a beam wrench, they both have their uses, if you've had one for a long time you need to send it off for calibration once in a great while.
http://www.maxprocorp.com/store.asp?pid=25738&catid=19940&gclid=CInbtOqm6q8CFQODnQodeA9r2w

If you want a good torque wrench and can't afford a snap on, look for armstrong tools, I have one myself and I used it for years, it also needs to be calibrated then I'll use it again. They are US made and excellent tools, well worth the investment

vteckiller
05-05-2012, 04:49 PM
the beam type wrenches are good for certain things, the advantage of them is they basically never go out of calibration, I'm talking about a good one not a china special, the clicker are good when you can't see the top of a beam wrench, they both have their uses, if you've had one for a long time you need to send it off for calibration once in a great while.
http://www.maxprocorp.com/store.asp?pid=25738&catid=19940&gclid=CInbtOqm6q8CFQODnQodeA9r2w

If you want a good torque wrench and can't afford a snap on, look for armstrong tools, I have one myself and I used it for years, it also needs to be calibrated then I'll use it again. They are US made and excellent tools, well worth the investment

Right Right, we'll for me i know prices are scary, but in the end you get what you pay for. dont get me wrong dont over pay, but basically i couldnt pass up a snap-on digital 25-250 1/2 drive for $110 this digital read out one just beeps once you are at the specified torque rating.. i know it really doesn't matter you have to calibrate them all once in a while.. just scary paying a good chunk of money for stuff that really isnt good/worth it.. but i know snap-on is always good stuff.. i guess i just want justification on buying it.. its a $250 torque wrench.. and like i said i paid $110.

lostforawhile
05-05-2012, 05:16 PM
Right Right, we'll for me i know prices are scary, but in the end you get what you pay for. dont get me wrong dont over pay, but basically i couldnt pass up a snap-on digital 25-250 1/2 drive for $110 this digital read out one just beeps once you are at the specified torque rating.. i know it really doesn't matter you have to calibrate them all once in a while.. just scary paying a good chunk of money for stuff that really isnt good/worth it.. but i know snap-on is always good stuff.. i guess i just want justification on buying it.. its a $250 torque wrench.. and like i said i paid $110.

I think my 3/8 drive armstrong was just over 100 through MSC, and I paid around 400 for my snap on of course I depend on them for work too

http://www.all-spec.com/products/64-041.html

vteckiller
05-05-2012, 07:14 PM
I think my 3/8 drive armstrong was just over 100 through MSC, and I paid around 400 for my snap on of course I depend on them for work too

http://www.all-spec.com/products/64-041.html

Yeah.. i just find it hard to believe people would buy a cheapo torque wrench cause of the accuracy you tighten to say 100ft pounds that means it could be off by around probably 30pounds negative or positive.. meaning you probably just ruined the project you are working on.. i rely on tools as well i don't rely on saving a buck buying china bs. i own nothing but Craftsman and snap-on and if i am not mistaken snap-on owns craftsman now.. this is the first time i have bought/owned a torque wrench.

gfrg88
05-05-2012, 07:45 PM
That snap-on one you've got is awesome! I've used it numerous times, without any problems :thumbup:

Dr_Snooz
05-05-2012, 08:56 PM
I've had good luck with my GearWrench clicker style. I used a cheapo Chinese, Harbor Freight job before that and it was fine too. To tell the truth, if I had to choose between Harbor Freight and Craftsman, I would choose Harbor Freight. The Craftsman stuff is mostly re-branded Harbor Freight that costs a lot more. I bought an electric impact wrench from Sears and found the exact same one (different color) at Harbor Freight the following day for half the price. The Craftsman stuff that isn't Chinese is so massively over-built that it's too clumsy to use. My Craftsman 19mm impact socket barely fits into my lug holes. It is considerably fatter than the Harbor Freight socket it replaced. I also have a Kobalt torque wrench that is newer and sees less use. The handle has already fallen off it. That's what I get for buying American.

For my purposes, torque accuracy isn't hugely important. I just need the bolt not to rattle out nor to strip. You can have a fairly inaccurate wrench and still meet those needs. I ended up replacing my Chinese torque wrench when it became inaccurate. I felt the inaccuracy in my hands before it started impacting my work.

lostforawhile
05-05-2012, 09:20 PM
Yeah.. i just find it hard to believe people would buy a cheapo torque wrench cause of the accuracy you tighten to say 100ft pounds that means it could be off by around probably 30pounds negative or positive.. meaning you probably just ruined the project you are working on.. i rely on tools as well i don't rely on saving a buck buying china bs. i own nothing but Craftsman and snap-on and if i am not mistaken snap-on owns craftsman now.. this is the first time i have bought/owned a torque wrench.

snap on doesn't own craftman, most of craftsmans stuff is simply other manufacturers stuff with their name on it, they make nothing, there is also the question going on now if their made in USA stuff is really made here, their quality has gone to crap the last ten years or so

gfrg88
05-06-2012, 09:19 AM
I've had good luck with my GearWrench clicker style. I used a cheapo Chinese, Harbor Freight job before that and it was fine too. To tell the truth, if I had to choose between Harbor Freight and Craftsman, I would choose Harbor Freight. The Craftsman stuff is mostly re-branded Harbor Freight that costs a lot more. I bought an electric impact wrench from Sears and found the exact same one (different color) at Harbor Freight the following day for half the price. The Craftsman stuff that isn't Chinese is so massively over-built that it's too clumsy to use. My Craftsman 19mm impact socket barely fits into my lug holes. It is considerably fatter than the Harbor Freight socket it replaced. I also have a Kobalt torque wrench that is newer and sees less use. The handle has already fallen off it. That's what I get for buying American.

For my purposes, torque accuracy isn't hugely important. I just need the bolt not to rattle out nor to strip. You can have a fairly inaccurate wrench and still meet those needs. I ended up replacing my Chinese torque wrench when it became inaccurate. I felt the inaccuracy in my hands before it started impacting my work.


I've gotten some stuff from HF recently, and honestly have never been as disappointed in my life! Both ratchets that I bought literally got fucked first time using them! Then went back to use my old shitty craftsman and did the job just like nothing :dunno:

I still love HF though :flash:

Dr_Snooz
05-06-2012, 10:47 PM
I've gotten some stuff from HF recently, and honestly have never been as disappointed in my life! Both ratchets that I bought literally got fucked first time using them! Then went back to use my old shitty craftsman and did the job just like nothing :dunno:

I still love HF though :flash:

Yep. I've bought my fair share of crapola from them, but I'm always surprised at how good a lot of the stuff is.

Hauntd ca3
05-07-2012, 01:30 AM
wouldnt waste my money on snap on, its way over priced for what it is and isnt any better than stuff thats less than half the price.
i payed $400 nzd for a 250 piece tool kit complete with a 1/2 drive vernier torque wrench, click/yield type, 30-150lb/ft
had the torque wrench checked and its calibration is fine.
for joe average, a cheap one is fine for most things

AccordEpicenter
05-07-2012, 08:42 AM
newer craftsman tq wrenches work okay but the quality has gone downhill. Surprisingly, if your using a 1/2" Harbor Freight tq wrench the accuracy is very good for what the tool costs but on the lower end of the scale they are marginal, the higher the bolt tq the more accurate they are. So skip the HF one for medium tq critical fasteners like rod bolts, but for something like axle nuts or lug nuts its more than adequate. If you want a decent quality tq wrench id get an SK, Mac, Matco, Proto, Snap On. Stick to your decent name brands and BE CAREFUL and DONT DROP IT or ITLL BE OUT OF SPEC.

dieselgus
05-07-2012, 05:49 PM
all 3 of my torque wrenches are click/micrometer style. I have always found the click type to be handiest (no scale to look at, no batteries, good, simple, reliable. I like that).

If you are buying, buy once cry once. Really happy with the Proto ones (in addition to the 1/4" and 3/8" drive new Proto in the box, I have my great uncles 1/2" that has been passed down through a couple generations of mechanics in my family and it still is an accurate well working wrench. I am guessing it is roughly 1960's era). Don't mind my SnapOn 1/2" drive but there is no way I would have bought it off the truck, snagged it at the local pawn shop in minty shape, in the case with paperwork for $125. Helluva score for a normally $400 wrench.

lostforawhile
05-07-2012, 05:54 PM
all 3 of my torque wrenches are click/micrometer style. I have always found the click type to be handiest (no scale to look at, no batteries, good, simple, reliable. I like that).

If you are buying, buy once cry once. Really happy with the Proto ones (in addition to the 1/4" and 3/8" drive new Proto in the box, I have my great uncles 1/2" that has been passed down through a couple generations of mechanics in my family and it still is an accurate well working wrench. I am guessing it is roughly 1960's era). Don't mind my SnapOn 1/2" drive but there is no way I would have bought it off the truck, snagged it at the local pawn shop in minty shape, in the case with paperwork for $125. Helluva score for a normally $400 wrench.you might want to have it calibrated, they go out from use over time, it's not much to have it done, just a normal part of owning a quality one.


wouldnt waste my money on snap on, its way over priced for what it is and isnt any better than stuff thats less than half the price.
i payed $400 nzd for a 250 piece tool kit complete with a 1/2 drive vernier torque wrench, click/yield type, 30-150lb/ft
had the torque wrench checked and its calibration is fine.
for joe average, a cheap one is fine for most thingseven if you are joe average,using a torque wrench that's not accurate can screw things up, if theres a torque spec, it's accurate for a reason, if you work on cars for a hobby,spend the money and get a quality one, it's cheap insurance you don't screw up something

vteckiller
05-09-2012, 12:26 PM
all 3 of my torque wrenches are click/micrometer style. I have always found the click type to be handiest (no scale to look at, no batteries, good, simple, reliable. I like that).

If you are buying, buy once cry once. Really happy with the Proto ones (in addition to the 1/4" and 3/8" drive new Proto in the box, I have my great uncles 1/2" that has been passed down through a couple generations of mechanics in my family and it still is an accurate well working wrench. I am guessing it is roughly 1960's era). Don't mind my SnapOn 1/2" drive but there is no way I would have bought it off the truck, snagged it at the local pawn shop in minty shape, in the case with paperwork for $125. Helluva score for a normally $400 wrench.

I paid $110 for mine, regardless of the price. i never skimp on money when it comes to tools, and I'm just your average Joe mechanic who fixes his own problems on his car no matter what it is i tackle it, and get the job done.
you won't find anything but Snap-on, S-K, Mac, Craftsman in my tool collection. Harbor trash items do work. but you get what you pay for IMO.

lostforawhile
05-09-2012, 01:59 PM
I paid $110 for mine, regardless of the price. i never skimp on money when it comes to tools, and I'm just your average Joe mechanic who fixes his own problems on his car no matter what it is i tackle it, and get the job done.
you won't find anything but Snap-on, S-K, Mac, Craftsman in my tool collection. Harbor trash items do work. but you get what you pay for IMO.

this is why I mentioned the armstrong, they are excellent tools but don't cost nearly as much

Vanilla Sky
05-09-2012, 04:32 PM
The HF torque wrench is rated accurate +/- 4% out of the box. I've checked mine against a beam type, and it was dead on for anything I need a 1/2" drive for. I have a 3/8" torque wrench for that stuff.

There are times to spend a lot of money on something, but unless I'm assembling the space shuttle, I feel comfortable using my pair of HF torque wrenches, even in an engine.

Craftsman buys tools out of the Danaher Tools bins. They may be made in America, but I've sourced better quality stuff from HF. I tend to buy used tool truck hand tools whenever possible, that way I get a good tool at pennies on the dollar.

lostforawhile
05-09-2012, 08:37 PM
The HF torque wrench is rated accurate +/- 4% out of the box. I've checked mine against a beam type, and it was dead on for anything I need a 1/2" drive for. I have a 3/8" torque wrench for that stuff.

There are times to spend a lot of money on something, but unless I'm assembling the space shuttle, I feel comfortable using my pair of HF torque wrenches, even in an engine.

Craftsman buys tools out of the Danaher Tools bins. They may be made in America, but I've sourced better quality stuff from HF. I tend to buy used tool truck hand tools whenever possible, that way I get a good tool at pennies on the dollar.

with all the cheap harbor freight tools they've bought and broke quickly at work, I would say the quality is also hit or miss, You might have just gotten lucky, but I wouldn't trust any spec they say, I've seen a few harbor freight tools last, but most are broken within a couple of weeks, some are outright dangerous, like the multi tube fluorescent area light they bought,it promptly melted and caught fire, the hand tools you might get by on, buy I've heard too many horror stories on the electrical tools spontaneously combusting

Vanilla Sky
05-09-2012, 08:50 PM
I do avoid most electrical tools from there, but their torque wrenches do have the same accuracy range of Snap-On, and you can calibrate them. If it breaks after a decade of use, you're out $20. I've had mine for about 5 years now, and if I measured it against my beam torque wrench, I bet it would be just as accurate as the day I bought it.

Really, it's harder to mess up some tools, even precision tools.

lostforawhile
05-09-2012, 09:48 PM
I do avoid most electrical tools from there, but their torque wrenches do have the same accuracy range of Snap-On, and you can calibrate them. If it breaks after a decade of use, you're out $20. I've had mine for about 5 years now, and if I measured it against my beam torque wrench, I bet it would be just as accurate as the day I bought it.

Really, it's harder to mess up some tools, even precision tools.

don't buy their calipers, I have my own personal ones but David buys the cheapo ones from there for the plant, we have a caliper graveyard with about a hundred pairs of calipers laid to rest in a box

Vanilla Sky
05-09-2012, 09:51 PM
Which type? I've had this (http://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-digital-caliper-47257.html) one for years. It doesn't see shop use, but I haven't had an issue with it.

lostforawhile
05-09-2012, 09:59 PM
Which type? I've had this (http://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-digital-caliper-47257.html) one for years. It doesn't see shop use, but I haven't had an issue with it.

we have a bunch of those dead and a bunch of dial ones dead, they are all no name harbor freight stuff, the digital ones last for a while,then either go out of calibration or outright fail,the dial ones get a couple of microns of dust in them and go way out of calibration. in reference I've had my Mitutoyo for years and years

Vanilla Sky
05-09-2012, 10:09 PM
While I haven't used a Mitutoyo, I understand that these are supposed to be a copy of a Mitutoyo. I guess it really helps that I don't ever get into the hundredths with mine. It is something I expect to upgrade when I start machining.

A lot of DIY guys use the plastic version of those for CNC conversions on machines. I know they're ultimately going for the cheapest ones available, but they hold their modified ones in good calibration over a period of years, so they have to be decent enough for someone that doesn't have to measure into the thousandths, or want to use them for their digital readouts.

lostforawhile
05-09-2012, 10:13 PM
While I haven't used a Mitutoyo, I understand that these are supposed to be a copy of a Mitutoyo. I guess it really helps that I don't ever get into the hundredths with mine. It is something I expect to upgrade when I start machining.

A lot of DIY guys use the plastic version of those for CNC conversions on machines. I know they're ultimately going for the cheapest ones available, but they hold their modified ones in good calibration over a period of years, so they have to be decent enough for someone that doesn't have to measure into the thousandths, or want to use them for their digital readouts.

the only good copies of the Mitutoys are the craftsman ones, but I think they are just rebranded ones that actually cost more then the original, if you get a real pair of them and then compare to the cheap sets the difference will be obvious, the quality difference is night and day,

Vanilla Sky
05-09-2012, 10:16 PM
One bit of advice is to not buy a set that looks like the HF ones but carries a slightly higher price tag, because they're the same tool. I've seen these calipers at a LOT of retailers, and everything is the same, with the exception of the name on the tool. If you're going for the knock-off, get the HF one, because you can often get them for $13 with coupon (I did). The rest seem to start at $20 and go up, for the same tool with the same model number printed on the back of it.

lostforawhile
05-09-2012, 10:25 PM
One bit of advice is to not buy a set that looks like the HF ones but carries a slightly higher price tag, because they're the same tool. I've seen these calipers at a LOT of retailers, and everything is the same, with the exception of the name on the tool. If you're going for the knock-off, get the HF one, because you can often get them for $13 with coupon (I did). The rest seem to start at $20 and go up, for the same tool with the same model number printed on the back of it.

yep those are the ones he buys 5 or 6 13 buck pairs at once, with a coupon lol, I just spent the 120 bucks once and was done with it.

Vanilla Sky
05-09-2012, 10:29 PM
Sounds like he's penny wise and pound foolish.

lostforawhile
05-09-2012, 10:41 PM
Sounds like he's penny wise and pound foolish.
naa it's people trying to use them who don't know what they are doing,then dropping them etc, drop them on concrete they are dead

Vanilla Sky
05-09-2012, 10:46 PM
Yeah, I don't trust any measurement device after it's suffered a drop, even if the electronics still work, unless I check it against a good one. I had issues with a carpenter's square once, and I learned my mistake.

Measure twice, cut once, verify measurement, test fit, and install.

AccordEpicenter
05-09-2012, 11:52 PM
the only good copies of the Mitutoys are the craftsman ones, but I think they are just rebranded ones that actually cost more then the original, if you get a real pair of them and then compare to the cheap sets the difference will be obvious, the quality difference is night and day,

after working in a test lab for a while, I agree that this is def the case. A real mitutoyo holds up very well with daily abuse, but a knockoff usually quits working or wont zero etc... the difference is huge. You def get what you pay for.

cygnus x-1
05-10-2012, 07:43 AM
naa it's people trying to use them who don't know what they are doing,then dropping them etc, drop them on concrete they are dead


If you know they are going to be dropped then it would be stupid to buy anything but the cheapest ones that will do the job.

I've been using the same cheapo digital caliper (nearly every day) for 4 years now, and it's still accurate to +-0.001 against a gauge. You can't really get any better than this with a caliper because there is some measurement technique involved (i.e. how much pressure you use). I also found that you need to occasionally check the cheapo digital (and even Mitutoyos for that matter) ones to see if they need to be adjusted. On the top side there are two adjustment screws that keep the slide tight. If they loosen up the slide will wiggle and the readings will be off.

I do have a Starrett dial type at home and it works as well as you can expect for a caliper.


On torque wrenches, I have a cheap HF type and every time I've checked it with a force gauge it's been dead on. If I was a professional mechanic and was going to use it every day I might get something better, but for home use my cheap one has been just fine. One thing about torque wrenches is that they are only accurate if the conditions under which the specs were determined, are still valid. For example, if the spec calls for a clean dry bolt, the bolt MUST be TOTALLY clean and dry, otherwise all bets are off. Even a bolt that has been used once will be different than a new bolt because the surface texture of the mating surfaces has changed. The tiniest bit of dirt, corrosion, grease, oil, etc. can completely throw off the accuracy. So to me, it's not worth worrying *too* much about having a super accurate wrench because there are many other variables that have a much bigger effect. Of course the wrench is the one variable that is easiest to control so it makes some sense to control that one if you can.


Harbor Freight is a mixed bag. Some of their hand tools are surprisingly good, and some are horrible. The only power tools I have from there are a couple of angle grinders. They are noisy as hell but they have a lot of torque and have always worked for me.

I used to buy Craftsman hand tools but the ones I've bought more recently were terrible, especially the screw drivers. The best ratchet I've used so far has been a 1/2" drive Duralast from Autozone. I've beaten the snot out of that thing and it's still going. It does need to be greased from time to time though. I have a Husky brand 3/8" ratchet from Home Despot that I really liked for awhile, because it has a really narrow head and fine ratcheting action. Unfortunately it isn't holding up well and it locks up a lot (greasing doesn't help for long). The other day I bought a nice looking Kobalt to replace it so we'll see how it does.


C|

Vanilla Sky
05-10-2012, 12:48 PM
You couldn't pay me enough to buy a set of brand new Craftsman hand tools. I'd happily rock HF stuff, even if it were the same price. Quality for Craftsman isn't a priority anymore.

dieselgus
05-10-2012, 06:46 PM
you might want to have it calibrated, they go out from use over time, it's not much to have it done, just a normal part of owning a quality one.

even if you are joe average,using a torque wrench that's not accurate can screw things up, if theres a torque spec, it's accurate for a reason, if you work on cars for a hobby,spend the money and get a quality one, it's cheap insurance you don't screw up something

Yup, I sent out the SnapOn pawnshop score the day after I got it (truck just happened to be by that day) to have it checked. It was still right on the money. Never hurts to have them checked though, especially if they are being used a lot, and that one does (picked it up to replace the old inherited Proto. It is still a solid wrench but is starting to show its age). And believe me, if you use tools for a living, you do notice a difference in the "overpriced" tool truck stuff versus jobber. They do fit fasteners with closer tolerance, are less likely to damage a fastener, and are generally built better to last a lot longer.

Hauntd ca3
05-11-2012, 01:07 AM
i still dont see the point in spending heaps on tools, apart from the odd thing.
i spend all day , 5 days a week fixing cars, and the most expensive things i have are a set of kincrome reverse ratcheting spanners and my vernier calipers.
nothing else in my tool boxes would have cost me more than $20.
some things, yeah are worth spending a few bucks on, but when you have to modify a tool to do one particular job that you cant buy a tool for, why grind,cut or weld a fifty dollar spanner when a 2 dollar one works just as well and you dont mind cutting up a 2 buck spanner.
i have maybe 1200 tools at work, thats counting sockets, extensions etc and its all cost me less than 2 grand.
even my $100 1/2 drive metric/imperial socket set has a life time warranty, and i've had 4ft floor jack handles on the breaker bar and it hasnt broken yet.
if you are putting a motor together, aslong as you make sure everything is spotless, clean and dry, a cheap torque wrench will suffice.
most wrenches are accurate to within maybe 5% and manufacturers will say so many lb/ft + or - so many lb/ft or %.
a mechanic mate of mine has nothing but snap on, worth 20K + and has no more than me. i doubt i'll have to replace my tools 10 times in the next 30 odd years of my work life. somethings like screwdrivers and side cutters , yeah, but stuff all else.

2oodoor
05-11-2012, 04:35 AM
The Craftsman professional line isn't too bad, we have some at work. A little pricey but not as high as some are.

As for Snap on, if you have a distributor around , the Blue Point tools are not too shabby and very affordable.

The general service sets are awesome, esp for junk yard runs.
Part #
#BLPGSSCTT71
#BLPGSSC100
#BLPGSSC155

All three of those sets are great! I like the one with the pliers for scavenging adventures. There is a partition I took out for the photo, these cases actually usable too unlike a lot of sets in blowmold...
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t280/roodoo2/Mobile%20Uploads/0511120849.jpg

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t280/roodoo2/Mobile%20Uploads/0511120829a.jpg