Home made HUD system

[Buzo]

I'm going to build a HUD system for my car. I will take 2 approaches:

1) Projector, I will use the following schematic to project the LCD image to either a white screen or the windshield. This one will work only at night per sure.
I have done it before for my bedroom and I know finding a strong light source is the bigger problem. The most the power, the most the heat to dissipate.

http://img822.imageshack.us/img822/6545/projectorw.png (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/822/projectorw.png/)

I will use my carpenter skills and build it as compact as possible. I do have pretty much everything on hand to give it a try this weekend.

2) Professionally install my LCD in one side of the dashboard. (I never thought in this option before!). I will hide all the electronics and encapsulate the LCD only. I am working right now in building a PCB with a processor where I can store up to 250 images. So emulating the one in the picture below will be possible.

http://img708.imageshack.us/img708/6397/hud2.png (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/708/hud2.png/)

[Dr_Snooz]

So AWESOME!!!!

[2drSE-i]

found a light source yet? when I work next ill look into what we can get in 12v high wattage stuff

[89HatchbackLxi]

Can't wait! If it turns out good, make a few of them so I can buy one from ya, lol.

I have that app from the 2nd pic installed on my ipod, It works pretty decent for a simple HUD for nighttime driving at least.

[A20A1]

cool project

[Honda Man]

cool project

Dude that's dope. I would love one of these. You got some crazy skills with electonics for sure I'm going to keep watching this

[DBMaster]

A small halogen projector bulb, perhaps? LED's are not suitable in all applications.

[2drSE-i]

A small halogen projector bulb, perhaps? LED's are not suitable in all applications.

I've got an abundance of those. I can almost promise you that an LED wouldn't work well for this, but a Halogen one would have to be insulated pretty well, they put off a bunch of heat.

[lostforawhile]

I think Cadillac was the one who made one factory, rip one out and modify it to work in a three g?, I think several Pontiacs also had the system, I've heard of it being transplanted into other cars, They say without the special windshield it's a little hard to see in broad daylight but still works well at night

[Buzo]

Whoever that can provide me with an Halogen Bulb sample would be highly appreciated.
I do have a mail box in El Paso TX, so it would ship into the US. Let me know please!

I saw one of the HUD Lost mentioned below, it is the Display and a curved mirror that projects and amplifies the image into the windshield, the problem is that it was uninstalled so I don't know how the special windshield looks like.

I have been experimenting with several tints and polarized plastics, so far I got a poor reflect at daylight and awesome reflect at night. I haven't changed the Display to write from right to left, so I can see the reflect, but its still backwards!

When I finish, I plan to put all the Displays I have on sale, I would have several versions, they can be acquired for a Megasquirted car, or to connect it directly to the stock ECU. There will be alphanumeric versions and graphic versions, some with backlight, some without backlight, I also have VCF versions (like the clock in the Instrument Panel). But I assume this would be into a couple of months or more! No hurry from my side. Not planning for making a box for them, so it will include the display connected through a 5 ft. long cable to the controller circuit only, so any one interested would be free to install it how/where better works for him.

Thanks for all your comments! I am anxiously waiting for the weekend!

[obdriver6]

I can't wait to see it finished!

[lostforawhile]

the GM one can be used without the special windshield, it's just hard to see in bright sun, but guys have transplanted it into other cars, might be something to look at

[Buzo]

Quick update here. I had to cross the border to buy the fresnel lenses (also called full page magnifiers). The local office depot does not longer carry them.

I don't have the same amount of spare time I used to have, I subscribed myself in a gym so I spend two hours there every day. (lost 14 lbs already!)

I've been working in the new microprocessor. I have everything built but I am working in getting it programmed, since I don't have an USB programmer for it, I am working with parallel port adapters and arcade stuff like that, and its a pain to get the correct drivers setup.

I'm not that worried for projecting the image of my display, the only technical problem I foresee is the heat dissipation of the light, and how to avoid it to heat the LCD up (these LCDs are very sensitive to temp.)

I am also looking for a special mirror with the reflecting paint in the top of the glass (normal mirrors have the paint in the back), so it avoids a double image reflection. I read somewhere that you can remove the gray paint from the back of any normal mirror until you get the plated surface. I may try this if I can't get the top side one.

[Buzo]

My new AVR microcontroller is up and running. It took me two weeks to become from a newbie to ...somebody that can do something with it.

Since I don't longer have the memory capacity problems I had before I will start adding B/W pictures to the code so I can do like a slide show and then use that to test my HUD. I will take some pictures/logos from internet, including the Accord one, of course.

So, now I need to go outside and cut some wood to assembly everything and give the first try tonight if possible. In preparation for this test I already tinted my car with the darkest color I found!

I also bought a JY instrument cluster replacement, so later I will throw my LCDs inside and replace the whole stock cluster.

[Buzo]

I have two of the large ones (the other is still installed in the car) so these two will display the dash symbols and the one with the black frame will display speed and RPM with big numbers and sliding bars.

http://img651.imageshack.us/img651/3564/imagen344g.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/651/imagen344g.jpg/)

[89HatchbackLxi]

I have two of the large ones (the other is still installed in the car) so these two will display the dash symbols and the one with the black frame will display speed and RPM with big numbers and sliding bars.

http://img651.imageshack.us/img651/3564/imagen344g.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/651/imagen344g.jpg/)

Love the progress you're making on this project man, keep it up!

Be sure to take some pics when you do test it!

[Buzo]

I ran the first test today to measure the focal distances.

Assuming I have a distance from the LCD to the projector lens of 10", the screen must be at 50" to get a nice and focused image.

So this will help me to determine where the projector will be installed. Either in the rest arm center console, or in the back seat.

If I leave the standard backlight of the LCDs, I can see the image only when the room is completely dark. So certainly a new type of light would be needed.

The wide and height dimensions of the box are determined by the LCD size. So far 7x3 in, and the length would be determined by the distance from the lens to the screen, but it should be no more than 8". Very compact, I think.

I would post some pictures, but I cut the wooden box too large since i didn't have an idea of the focal distances, so i need to re-do some cuts and then i will post the pics. With the new size I'll be able to actually test it in the car.

[Buzo]

http://img99.imageshack.us/img99/2364/caryh.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/99/caryh.jpg/)

http://img220.imageshack.us/img220/8687/rpms.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/220/rpms.jpg/)

..more pics later... And thanks to obdriver6 for "lending" me the 1st pic.

[obdriver6]

http://img99.imageshack.us/img99/2364/caryh.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/99/caryh.jpg/)
..more pics later... And thanks to obdriver6 for "lending" me the 1st pic.

I'm like "hmm, that looks familiar" lol..... Nice progress BTW!

[Buzo]

A bigger light is a must in these projectors.
Here is a small test I made today.

The plan is to put the projector in the middle of the two front seats. Is will take the form as the arm rest in others cars that can be put horizontal or vertical.

With that, the image gets 1/2 of the size of the windshield, unfortunately the camera is unable to capture the [projected image.

The plan for this projector is to find the proper light, and later go smaller using an old camera's LCD and its lens.

http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/715/projectorf.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/442/projectorf.jpg/)

[cygnus x-1]

Can you shine light through the LCD? Many years ago I remember taking apart an old calculator and removing the mirror from behind the LCD. It worked exactly like it always did except that you couldn't really see it unless you held it up to a light. If you could do this and also find a way to invert the display (swap light and dark) you might be able to get a brighter image.

C|

[Buzo]

Some plywood cuts

http://img268.imageshack.us/img268/1715/partskq.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/268/partskq.jpg/)

Forgot tpo include the mirror

http://img189.imageshack.us/img189/5351/partsii.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/189/partsii.jpg/)

The picture as seen in the LCD

http://img40.imageshack.us/img40/5382/closeupkf.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/40/closeupkf.jpg/)

A view of the projector already assembled. The mirror is trans-lucid, its the only one I could get so far. It looks too big, but it fits in the middle of the seats. The mirror and lens must be re-arranged.

http://img403.imageshack.us/img403/1087/projectorii.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/403/projectorii.jpg/)

[Buzo]

Can you shine light through the LCD? Many years ago I remember taking apart an old calculator and removing the mirror from behind the LCD. It worked exactly like it always did except that you couldn't really see it unless you held it up to a light. If you could do this and also find a way to invert the display (swap light and dark) you might be able to get a brighter image.

C|

The LCD has a backlight that actually works with high voltage, if you look carefully there is a type of ballast mounted in the PCB . That backlight can be removed and replaced with something else.
Swapping light and dark is easy. I draw the 240x64 pixels regardless of the content, so it don't care if it is reversed. I'll test it and see if there is an improvement. I need to find a mirror with the silver tint in the top and not in the back as the normal mirrors. The one i have is certainly "leaking" precious light.

[Nafs Asdf]

Have you thought about using LEDs for the lighting? Wouldn't need to worry about the heat then.

[2drSE-i]

Have you thought about using LEDs for the lighting? Wouldn't need to worry about the heat then.

was just wondering this as well. problem is, they don't make many small Led projector bulbs. smallest one I can get is an MR16 and unfortunately, it is not dimmable. oh, and its about $20

[89HatchbackLxi]

Hmm.. Wouldn't it be easier to just drop the mirror from the setup and set the LCD display to display everything in reverse? Then the light source can be closer to the projector lens so light won't have to travel off the mirror first. Also as a bonus, it seems like it would allow a more small and compacted layout for the HUD that way. Or would that not work?

[cygnus x-1]

Hmm.. Wouldn't it be easier to just drop the mirror from the setup and set the LCD display to display everything in reverse? Then the light source can be closer to the projector lens so light won't have to travel off the mirror first. Also as a bonus, it seems like it would allow a more small and compacted layout for the HUD that way. Or would that not work?


That's like what I was thinking. Replace the LCD backlight with something closer to a projector bulb. Then mess with the LCD image to get it oriented correctly top/bottom and left/right. Also see if inverting the image helps any. I'm not seeing why the mirror is needed either.

C|

[Buzo]

That's like what I was thinking. Replace the LCD backlight with something closer to a projector bulb. Then mess with the LCD image to get it oriented correctly top/bottom and left/right. Also see if inverting the image helps any. I'm not seeing why the mirror is needed either.

C|

The problem is that the LCD has a piece of PCB in the back, so there is only 1/8 of inch to slide a light diffuser, LEDs, or something to light the LCD up.

Then, the projector Lens will reverse the image left to right and top to bottom.
Top to bottom is easy to fix, so you only put the LCD upside down, but to fix left to right, you need the mirror.

I am thinking in experimenting with the Flash LEDs from an old cell phone, I know they are not designed to be on all the time, but I will see...

[Buzo]

Have you thought about using LEDs for the lighting? Wouldn't need to worry about the heat then.

Do you know any type of LEDs that could work? The LEDs must be surface mount, since there is very little room between the PCB and the glass to fit them.

[Buzo]

This is not part of the HUD system project, but its something I have been doing in parallel. Modifying a JY cluster to fit low resolution LCDs that can be controlled with a microprocessor.

So this is how it is going.

Only 2 LCDs would fit.

http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/2755/clusterorg1.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/18/clusterorg1.jpg/)

Cut some plastic material in the corners, still don't know if there is room in the car

http://img821.imageshack.us/img821/5099/clusterreworked1.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/821/clusterreworked1.jpg/)

An example of the bigger LCD in text mode. Its resolution is 240x128 pixels

http://img225.imageshack.us/img225/6860/lcd240x128ok.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/225/lcd240x128ok.jpg/)

An example of the 240x64 pixels LCD in graphic mode

http://img196.imageshack.us/img196/174/lcd240x64.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/196/lcd240x64.jpg/)

Taking pictures to a LCD is always a problem due to the refresh rate. But believe me, it looks much better live!

[2drSE-i]

Do you know any type of LEDs that could work? The LEDs must be surface mount, since there is very little room between the PCB and the glass to fit them.

very high end projector bulbs use surface mount LEDs. you would have to destroy a $60 bulb to get them out, though. they are mounted in PCB. not sure on voltage though, as they are connected to a driver intended for 120v applications.

[Buzo]

Got my LCD programmed to write from right to left, so when using a transparent mirror in the windshield the driver gets the correct image.

Understand how hard is for the camera (and the cameraman) to focus a translucid image, so very bad pics, sorry. Once again you got to believe me that it looks pretty cool live.

I created an inverted video image for daylight (thanks for the idea, Cygnus!) and a normal video for nightime when the light reflects better.

Here some pics before 'permanent' install.

http://img690.imageshack.us/img690/1821/lighttimelcd.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/690/lighttimelcd.jpg/)

http://img59.imageshack.us/img59/1051/nighttimelcd.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/59/nighttimelcd.jpg/)

http://img195.imageshack.us/img195/4241/inversevideo.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/195/inversevideo.jpg/)

http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/9333/nighttimeus.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/18/nighttimeus.jpg/)

http://img72.imageshack.us/img72/1795/windshieldi.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/72/windshieldi.jpg/)

[89HatchbackLxi]

Great improvement!

[Buzo]

OK, this is the deal.

I ordered 4 Graphic LCDs with a resolution of 128 x 64 pixels. Same white on blue color I have in below pictures, (but mine is 240x128 pixels) Take into account that a smaller LCD would be easier to fit in your car.

I am going to build RPM and SPEED displays with them, so anybody interested can connect their '-' terminal of the coil and the speed pulser to the LCD and get a nice digital odometer & tachometer. Flipping a sw would reverse the image to do something similar to what I am doing here with the mirror.

I could include AFR too, but it would need a different microcontroller with ADC and then the cost will be a little higher.

So far:
LCD 128x64 pixels: ~20 USD or LCD 240X128 pixels (like mine): ~80 USD
Micro w/o ADC: ~7 USD (no AFR) or Micro w ADC: ~17 USD (w AFR)
Manufacturing cost: (not determined yet, but I don't intend to get rich with this :) )
Shipping: from El Paso, TX, USA.

If anybody wants to design his own pattern/font, I will include instructions to do so, or send me your proposal before shipping.
You can get the required signals, Ign, GND, Speed Pulser, Tacho (and optional O2) from your ECU connector below the driver's seat.

Those Displays are pretty sensitive to temperature, so you may need to manually adjust the contrast if you leave your car in the sunlight for some time.

Since I reduced the scope of the project (speed and rpm only!), I guess I can get mine working pretty soon and then you can decide if it is something you want for your car. For now, please just tell me how many of you guys might be interested.

If there are no potential buyers, no worries! because I already had plans for those LCDs. Just thought that someone else would like to test with curved mirrors, different fonts, installation, wiring, etc. and give feedback to improve the project.

[89HatchbackLxi]

OK, this is the deal.

I ordered 4 Graphic LCDs with a resolution of 128 x 64 pixels. Same white on blue color I have in below pictures, (but mine is 240x128 pixels) Take into account that a smaller LCD would be easier to fit in your car.

I am going to build RPM and SPEED displays with them, so anybody interested can connect their '-' terminal of the coil and the speed pulser to the LCD and get a nice digital odometer & tachometer. Flipping a sw would reverse the image to do something similar to what I am doing here with the mirror.

I could include AFR too, but it would need a different microcontroller with ADC and then the cost will be a little higher.

So far:
LCD 128x64 pixels: ~20 USD or LCD 240X128 pixels (like mine): ~80 USD
Micro w/o ADC: ~7 USD (no AFR) or Micro w ADC: ~17 USD (w AFR)
Manufacturing cost: (not determined yet, but I don't intend to get rich with this :) )
Shipping: from El Paso, TX, USA.

If anybody wants to design his own pattern/font, I will include instructions to do so, or send me your proposal before shipping.
You can get the required signals, Ign, GND, Speed Pulser, Tacho (and optional O2) from your ECU connector below the driver's seat.

Those Displays are pretty sensitive to temperature, so you may need to manually adjust the contrast if you leave your car in the sunlight for some time.

Since I reduced the scope of the project (speed and rpm only!), I guess I can get mine working pretty soon and then you can decide if it is something you want for your car. For now, please just tell me how many of you guys might be interested.

If there are no potential buyers, no worries! because I already had plans for those LCDs. Just thought that someone else would like to test with curved mirrors, different fonts, installation, wiring, etc. and give feedback to improve the project.

I am definitely hoping to get one of these awesome devices! As long as there are setup instructions included, Sign me up!

By the way, my car sits outside and I live in a desert area of california. So high heat is pretty standart for at least 6 months straight every year. This isn't going to be a problem to/damage the screen or anything is it?

[Buzo]

A night shot.

http://img17.imageshack.us/img17/3441/nightshot2d.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/17/nightshot2d.jpg/)

[Hazwan]

Sick!

[Buzo]

I am definitely hoping to get one of these awesome devices! As long as there are setup instructions included, Sign me up!

By the way, my car sits outside and I live in a desert area of california. So high heat is pretty standart for at least 6 months straight every year. This isn't going to be a problem to/damage the screen or anything is it?

There will be a potentiometer that must be adjusted at least two times during a normal day, less contrast after the Display has been exposed to the direct light of the sun, and more contrast when you start driving in the morning. Extra precautions may be taken, like using the heat and light protector thing in the windshield when your car is parked, but certainly there will be no damage to the LCD.
Thanks for your interest! I am working in bigger fonts for the speed right now and I should be ready to take a video today.

I also plan to cut the mirror and make a 45 degrees slot for it in the base, so I get rid of the pieces of plastic in the sides and we will see a mirror with the exact size of the screen.

[Buzo]

Sick!

Thanks! I'll be doing more experiments, like reducing the backlight intensity so we get ride of the blue background and leave the numbers only. I need to think also how to get rid of the extra reflection in the windshield. I need to add a cover (something like a cap) to the top of the mirror.

[89HatchbackLxi]

There will be a potentiometer that must be adjusted at least two times during a normal day, less contrast after the Display has been exposed to the direct light of the sun, and more contrast when you start driving in the morning. Extra precautions may be taken, like using the heat and light protector thing in the windshield when your car is parked, but certainly there will be no damage to the LCD.
Thanks for your interest! I am working in bigger fonts for the speed right now and I should be ready to take a video today.

I also plan to cut the mirror and make a 45 degrees slot for it in the base, so I get rid of the pieces of plastic in the sides and we will see a mirror with the exact size of the screen.

Awesome!

A potentiometer? Is that just going to be a little knob or something attached that'll control the contrast easily? And ok, I always put a visor up when it's parked in the sun anyways, so that shouldn't be a problem. :)

Can't wait to see the video of it in action!

[HelenKellerrr]

I've been following this since the beginning and this is turning out to be crazy! I think I might need to invest in this

[Buzo]

More updates, you don't have to do this, just placing the LCD above the cluster should be enough, but I did it for a less-invasive view.

http://img502.imageshack.us/img502/562/cut1r.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/502/cut1r.jpg/)

http://img803.imageshack.us/img803/5936/cut2.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/803/cut2.jpg/)

http://img265.imageshack.us/img265/2910/testfit1.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/265/testfit1.jpg/)

http://img840.imageshack.us/img840/4373/testfit2r.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/840/testfit2r.jpg/)

[Buzo]

Went to a store where they build aluminum windows and got some mirrors, plexiglass and this nice aluminum slot and the little rubber piece that holds the mirror in place. After some cuts and bends I fixed it in its place with a couple of screws.

http://img96.imageshack.us/img96/9297/mirrorsj.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/96/mirrorsj.jpg/)

http://img831.imageshack.us/img831/4822/mirror2x.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/831/mirror2x.jpg/)

http://img513.imageshack.us/img513/1455/slotc.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/513/slotc.jpg/)

[Buzo]

Now the electrical stuff. I dismounted the cluster and found all the signals can be found underneath that little plastic piece.

I also found that there is plenty of room in the sides of the cluster to fit the electronics.

http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/3747/plastica.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/15/plastica.jpg/)

http://img706.imageshack.us/img706/5088/electricalconnections.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/706/electricalconnections.jpg/)

http://img571.imageshack.us/img571/7208/microasm.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/571/microasm.jpg/)

[Buzo]

Its already night time here... Some more pics with the help of my flashlight. The wires you see coming out of the dash are for development only. As soon as I calibrate the speed I will disconnect those wires and put the cover in its place.

http://img138.imageshack.us/img138/8143/mounted1.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/138/mounted1.jpg/)

http://img696.imageshack.us/img696/8656/mounted2.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/696/mounted2.jpg/)

http://img687.imageshack.us/img687/9718/mounted3.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/687/mounted3.jpg/)

[Buzo]

A couple of views with a standard mirror, and with a polarized plastic.
If I find problems during daylight, I may use the mirror during the day and the plastic at night. Still some testing to do with different tints before I decide.

Here a couple of pics with the lights ON and OFF, and note the flash of the camera does not disturb the reflected image.

The third picture is using a mirror (still not the correct one!). There is no view through it but it won't lost any light.

http://img403.imageshack.us/img403/2424/flashdark.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/403/flashdark.jpg/)

http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/7950/flashlights.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/135/flashlights.jpg/)


http://img21.imageshack.us/img21/1282/mirrorview.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/21/mirrorview.jpg/)

[Buzo]

I've been following this since the beginning and this is turning out to be crazy! I think I might need to invest in this

Thanks! And the most important is still to come. The ability to see your speed like if it was drawn in the road! For that I will create different fonts until I get the desired effect.

[mykwikcoupe]

The late 80's nissan 300T had a system in it like this. Maybe you could salvage a windscreen sticker. they used a polarized sticker to the right of the gauge cluster just above the dash. Looked almost red/bronze. do away with the plastic and just use the sticker. great idea I love it. If its possible to image it near the top left A pillar Id do it as well.

[HelenKellerrr]

Fitting it in the dash above the cluster looks 100 times better imo.

@mykwikcoupe your pic always makes me laugh haha

[89HatchbackLxi]

Wow, this is turning out perfect man!

So... how much does a pre-installed to cluster version of this cost? ;) jk lol. What did you use to cut the hole into the cluster cover trim?

[Buzo]

The late 80's nissan 300T had a system in it like this. Maybe you could salvage a windscreen sticker. they used a polarized sticker to the right of the gauge cluster just above the dash. Looked almost red/bronze. do away with the plastic and just use the sticker. great idea I love it. If its possible to image it near the top left A pillar Id do it as well.


I am looking for the perfect windshield sticker like mad. I do have different tints to play with, but have not applied any one yet. I'll take a look to these cars over internet to see how they work and then go for one in the YJ.

I guess if you tilt the LCD you can easily change the zone where the image is projected. Due to the curves of the windshield it is possible you get the image slightly distorted, but the numbers projected can be distorted also, and get them corrected by the windshield (through some trial and error experiments)


So... how much does a pre-installed to cluster version of this cost? jk lol. What did you use to cut the hole into the cluster cover trim?

Sure! I used my dremel and the metal cut disks. The idea is to send to those interested the whole assembly with the proper length of wires so you just glue it to your cluster and connect 4 wires. But saving your original cluster cover is not a bad idea. Next time you go to the yard, grab one of these.

[Buzo]

I should be able to upload the video tonight.
It is working perfectly displaying both, engine rpm and vehicle speed.
The LCD screen has big numbers only, have not added anything cool yet since I was making it work to perfection, then everything else will be just extra.

[89HatchbackLxi]

I should be able to upload the video tonight.
It is working perfectly displaying both, engine rpm and vehicle speed.
The LCD screen has big numbers only, have not added anything cool yet since I was making it work to perfection, then everything else will be just extra.

Can't wait to see it in action!

[Buzo]

Spent the evening applying tint to some pieces of plastic and to one section of the windshield too. Then got tired. So I will make the video tomorrow. But it works, its all I can say for now :)

[go2eleven]

Holy carp this is a good idea, and you're just freaking executing it to perfection! Great work man, can't wait to see the finished product!

[Buzo]

A screenshot of the video i am uploading.
No one of the plastics with tints worked OK during the daylight. So I am using the mirror during the day, and it would be optional to change it at night.

Here is the link http://youtu.be/CEXDp1EM8Nk

hahaha, sorry. Selected the "reduce video shaking" option in utube and everything got distorted, but well, pay attention to the numbers and how they get updated accordingly to the speed.

http://img809.imageshack.us/img809/8293/dayview.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/809/dayview.jpg/)

[89HatchbackLxi]

A screenshot of the video i am uploading.
No one of the plastics with tints worked OK during the daylight. So I am using the mirror during the day, and it would be optional to change it at night.

Here is the link http://youtu.be/CEXDp1EM8Nk

hahaha, sorry. Selected the "reduce video shaking" option in utube and everything got distorted, but well, pay attention to the numbers and how they get updated accordingly to the speed.

http://img809.imageshack.us/img809/8293/dayview.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/809/dayview.jpg/)

Nice. One question though, is the number skipping due to a low transfer speed somewhere between the ECU and the display? Or is that really just the speed the ECU operates at?

[dark_accord]

thats amazing! the old grand prix/ grand am or cavaliers or something like that had something similar so there might be some info on what kind of tint they used

[Buzo]

Nice. One question though, is the number skipping due to a low transfer speed somewhere between the ECU and the display? Or is that really just the speed the ECU operates at?

It's the way I designed it. I first clear the speed and rpm counters, then count the number of pulses received into a period of 0.5 seconds, and then let the ECU update the Display. Hold the last numbers for another 0.5 secs while I re-do the count.

I liked that way because you can get increases of "1" in the speed, if I try to shorten the time, lets say count for 0.05 secs then I need to do a multiplication x10 and I will get increases of "10" MPH.

An example is the RPM counter in which I got increments of 30 RPM (I multiply revs per second x 60 to get camshaft revs per minute, then divided by 2 to get crankshaft RPM)

[Buzo]

thats amazing! the old grand prix/ grand am or cavaliers or something like that had something similar so there might be some info on what kind of tint they used

Thanks! I found that if I put the LCD closer to the windshield, I get a nicer image, but I need to tilt the LCD to get the perfect 45 degrees angle and then I see both, the LDC and the reflection, at the same time. I saw a video of someone putting his iphone's gps application like that so the look is more confusing, unless you cover the lcd...

[Buzo]

Holy carp this is a good idea, and you're just freaking executing it to perfection! Great work man, can't wait to see the finished product!

Thanks for your comment! The constraint of this project is again the poor backlight's intensity of the LCD. In order to be able to reflect the image from the windshield during the day, we would need to increasing the power of the backlight. The GM HUD I saw, had a pretty big heatsink, meaning a lot of heat dissipation is needed to create a powerful enough light.

I'm happy with the mirror. It takes almost no view space. I saw one where you can adjust the angle of the mirror with a couple of screws in the sides, so I plan to get something similar, and it will address my safety concern of being crashed in the back and get that mirror straight into my face.

[Buzo]

Its time to add more graphic stuff. A horizontal filling bar instead of the RPM number should be OK for demonstration. It is easy to add graphics if I was writing from left to right, but since I need to reverse the image then need to add more calculations to get the right position in the LCD.

[89HatchbackLxi]

It's the way I designed it. I first clear the speed and rpm counters, then count the number of pulses received into a period of 0.5 seconds, and then let the ECU update the Display. Hold the last numbers for another 0.5 secs while I re-do the count.

I liked that way because you can get increases of "1" in the speed, if I try to shorten the time, lets say count for 0.05 secs then I need to do a multiplication x10 and I will get increases of "10" MPH.

An example is the RPM counter in which I got increments of 30 RPM (I multiply revs per second x 60 to get camshaft revs per minute, then divided by 2 to get crankshaft RPM)

Oh ok. That makes sense.

Is it something that is possible to change though, like as simple as updating a firmware to process the speed differently (like adding a second multiplier variable) or would it take more work that it is worth?

The current set up is something like: [ Input x Time = X ] right?

So, for example, what if you were to change the time to something like say .25 (then use an additional x2 multiplier of the current pulse count multiplier setting) or even .125 seconds (@ 4x the current pulse count multiplier) (or faster yet even depending on how quickly your setup will allow it to process everything, you mentioned graphics, so I'm assuming it has some pretty decent power to it) Anyways, using this method, you will be able to get a faster refresh rate, but keep the accurate numbers that you are already getting, right? Unless my math is completely wrong lol, or maybe you are limited to using a single multiplier with this set up? I just realized that I could quickly code what I was just describing with javascript, so I figured it might be possible to write it with whatever you're using to code/program this as well, I have no clue how you're running it though, so maybe everything I just said won't apply to this in the least, haha.

Anyway, don't get me wrong, I absolutely LOVE what you're doing here and I think it's totally awesome, I was just wondering if it was easy to get this setup to operate at a refresh rate that is closer to what is typically found in cars that have an OEM HUD system, since most GPS based speed devices or apps use a frame rate that is similar or about equal to the speed of the refresh rate in the video you posted. Since this is gonna be built into the dash though, might as well try for the OEM look if it's possible. :)

Also, regarding the light intensity, it's to bad there isn't enough room for one of these back there. ;) http://store.ijdmtoy.com/27W-High-Power-LED-Day-Work-Light-p/led_work_light_9d.htm

In all serious though, would something like this be bright enough+small enough? http://store.ijdmtoy.com/1W-DE3175-DE3022-Festoon-High-Power-LED-Light-Bulb-p/led_hp_d31.htm I know it gives off some heat, but it's still less than an ordinary bulb but also brighter than non "high-power" type leds.

[Buzo]

There is a faster way to measure the exact speed and RPM. You wait for the beginning of the pulse (lets say the rising edge of the pulse), and count until you find the next rising edge. Then you just get the inverse (1/count) and get the speed/rpm with very high precision.

In a 60 MPH it will take 16 ms to get the exact speed + the LCD refresh rate, you can easily get your LCD updated 10 times per second.

But as you said, Does it worth it? RPM are so variable from turn to turn that you would need to use lags to be able to actually read the last two digits.

I think screwed it up by posting a video taken in a slow street, I thought it was more significant to show how it goes up and down, because once you are cruising you see a fixed number in the screen varying only +/-1 MPH.

What I am planning to do for customization, is to create a header in the program where you can change your speed and rpm multipliers, you can also create different graphics, change the XY position of the numbers, etc. into the limitations of our LCD of course.

Please feel free to keep giving feedback. I really appreciate your time and interest in this project!

[89HatchbackLxi]

There is a faster way to measure the exact speed and RPM. You wait for the beginning of the pulse (lets say the rising edge of the pulse), and count until you find the next rising edge. Then you just get the inverse (1/count) and get the speed/rpm with very high precision.

In a 60 MPH it will take 16 ms to get the exact speed + the LCD refresh rate, you can easily get your LCD updated 10 times per second.

But as you said, Does it worth it? RPM are so variable from turn to turn that you would need to use lags to be able to actually read the last two digits.

I think screwed it up by posting a video taken in a slow street, I thought it was more significant to show how it goes up and down, because once you are cruising you see a fixed number in the screen varying only +/-1 MPH.

What I am planning to do for customization, is to create a header in the program where you can change your speed and rpm multipliers, you can also create different graphics, change the XY position of the numbers, etc. into the limitations of our LCD of course.

Please feel free to keep giving feedback. I really appreciate your time and interest in this project!

Oh wow, the customization feature sounds perfect. :)

[ShyBoyCA6]

Nice its coming along great! Keep it up! Is it possible to add a illumination for the interior lights for when it gets dark?

[Buzo]

I did hide the controller and wiring inside the cluster cover. I just left a serial connector hanging from one side to be able to make updates to the firmware, but everything else is now properly covered.

I guess I've been spending too much time creating the mirror-view for the rpm progress bar with no success. So I will temporarily put my LCD in vertical position until I complete the design and make sure it works with the right scales and everything. That means that my HUD will look something like this one for sometime:

http://img254.imageshack.us/img254/677/vertr.png (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/254/vertr.png/)

[CzEcHy]

I'll pay you to make me a digital dash like that, just make it fit the stock gauge cluster area.

[Legend_master]

I'll pay you to make me a digital dash like that, just make it fit the stock gauge cluster area.

Yeah, that is fucking sick. I love the way that look!

[Buzo]

I will finish the HUD system first, then the Clock as O2 display and finally the Digital Cluster. I received today the small LCDs I ordered so I am ready with the required parts for all my projects, I just need some more free time...

[Buzo]

Another quick update. I found the solution for the undesired reflection of the LCD at night (not the double image, but the upper reflection due to the curve of the glass): A privacy filter. The ones used for computer monitors. I would recommend it for those that want to put the iphone over the dash and get the reflection in the windshield too.

Also finished the routines to select how to write the information in the LCD, either left to right and right to left with a flip of a SW. I also selected the way the RPM indicator will look like. At this time I am bench testing the Speed and RPM counters to make sure they are properly scaled. I am also going to put the LCD and controller in a project box with ports for programming, 12V volts and signals. I might need to cut a bigger hole in the top of the dash, but wtf, one more hole is nothing.

I am really excited to be closer to the end of this project!

[89HatchbackLxi]

Another quick update. I found the solution for the undesired reflection of the LCD at night (not the double image, but the upper reflection due to the curve of the glass): A privacy filter. The ones used for computer monitors. I would recommend it for those that want to put the iphone over the dash and get the reflection in the windshield too.

Also finished the routines to select how to write the information in the LCD, either left to right and right to left with a flip of a SW. I also selected the way the RPM indicator will look like. At this time I am bench testing the Speed and RPM counters to make sure they are properly scaled. I am also going to put the LCD and controller in a project box with ports for programming, 12V volts and signals. I might need to cut a bigger hole in the top of the dash, but wtf, one more hole is nothing.

I am really excited to be closer to the end of this project!

Nice. Can't wait to see what you've done with the graphics. :)

[Buzo]

I like it a lot. It might be because it took me like 3 weeks to be able to make a non flat RPM bar like the one in the picture.

Both pics were taken with the privacy filter over the LCD as you can see.

The whole assembly is now like 1.5" tall, so it can be placed close to the windshield, or over the cluster with the mirrow/polarized glass as I currently have it installed.

I'll do more testing tonight.

http://img846.imageshack.us/img846/2575/filter1w.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/846/filter1w.jpg/)

http://img543.imageshack.us/img543/6038/filter2c.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/543/filter2c.jpg/)

[89HatchbackLxi]

Looks great!

[Buzo]

After all my testing decided that a LCD with blue background is not recommended for a HUD, because you will always see the rectangle in the windshield that blocks the view. A black background with white letters should be used instead.

So, This is my final installation. I saved the small piece of plastic I cut from the top of the dash, I will glue it to cover the hole.
The privacy filter works great to avoid the windshield reflection as can be seen in the second and third pic.

http://img41.imageshack.us/img41/3582/hud1i.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/41/hud1i.jpg/)

http://img844.imageshack.us/img844/2808/hud2.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/844/hud2.jpg/)

http://img151.imageshack.us/img151/230/hud3.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/151/hud3.jpg/)

[89HatchbackLxi]

Nice! The privacy screen thing really helps. And I agree about the blue background. I thought you were just stuck with blue and thats why you were using it, but if you can change it, black would definitely work much better.

[Buzo]

I've been playing with the vacuum fluorescent display I have (white numbers in a black background) and I actually found a great place for it right between the clock and the instrument cluster. The data is projected almost below the retrovisor mirror, so if I need to put some dark tint (or even a small piece of mirror glued to the windshield), it will not affect the vision of the road, but it will still be in your peripheral vision.

I also have been looking at the HUD images in the net, and I found that those pics taken in the real life are always taken against a shadow, or in a cloudy day, or at night. So not even the OEMs are strong enough to reflect properly in a shiny day.

I decided to keep working in this HUD thing when I found the one-side mirror I was looking for. I found it at Autozone and its made of plastic that can be cut to any size using standard scissors.

But also when I was programming the VFD, I did something that made the numbers displayed ultra-bright for several seconds, so I will try to understand how it works and hack it to make the numbers brighter than normal.

The disadvantage is that it will be text only, but wtf, I saw one OEM's HUD with GPS that instead of displaying a fancy 90 degrees arrow, it displayed TURN LEFT. Same thing at the end.

[Buzo]

My night time only HUD...

The gosthing can be avoided by adding a small piece of tint to the windshield.
http://img820.imageshack.us/img820/826/vfdhud.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/820/vfdhud.jpg/)

Like this...
http://img560.imageshack.us/img560/995/vfdhud1.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/560/vfdhud1.jpg/)

And this is the little guy that projects the image to the windhsield. I wish I can bury it into the dashboard, but for now I am going to put it above the dash and cover it with something.

http://img9.imageshack.us/img9/7400/vfdhud2.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/9/vfdhud2.jpg/)

[mykwikcoupe]

that does look great. Nice work. With the angle that its biult at, can it lay in the crevase between the gauge cluster and windshield

[Buzo]

Once you make the first hole in the dash, everything else is easier.

So... in the name of the science...

http://img3.imageshack.us/img3/1764/cut1p.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/3/cut1p.jpg/)

http://img88.imageshack.us/img88/344/cut2c.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/88/cut2c.jpg/)

Due to the curature of the windshield, the projector needs to be placed in this funny angle

http://img194.imageshack.us/img194/2402/cut3y.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/194/cut3y.jpg/)

http://img515.imageshack.us/img515/9648/cut4p.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/515/cut4p.jpg/)

http://img812.imageshack.us/img812/9594/cut6.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/812/cut6.jpg/)

Since that little cover does not longer fit where it was, it can be used to hide the projector from the driver

http://img256.imageshack.us/img256/7185/cut5.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/256/cut5.jpg/)

[Buzo]

that does look great. Nice work. With the angle that its biult at, can it lay in the crevase between the gauge cluster and windshield

That was the plan, but as you can see the Display needs to be tilted ~30 degrees, so if I didn't make the hole in the dash, the right side would be too high in the air, almost hitting the windshield.

Next step is to create big numbers with the little 6x8 squares.

[Buzo]

The big numbers would look like these...
But since the speed is only 2 1/2 digits (I don't think I will ever get to 200 MPH), there will be 9x4 free squares to make bar graphs, or put the RPM with the standard font, or whatever.

http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/4469/nums.png (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/204/nums.png/)

[Hazwan]

Sooo sick (Y)

[Buzo]

Pics of what I tried to say with words... Right now its only a fixed image, I'm working in copying the code from my vertical LCD.

A closer view of the projected image. Perfectly horizontal regardless of the tilted position of the projector.

http://img546.imageshack.us/img546/3342/big1n.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/546/big1n.jpg/)

A direct view in the mirror of the projector. Kind of.

http://img39.imageshack.us/img39/6678/big2x.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/39/big2x.jpg/)

How the driver (me) sees the information. Sorry but during the day the camera has a different refresh rate that conflicts with the display's refresh rate.

http://img35.imageshack.us/img35/2445/big3zi.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/35/big3zi.jpg/)

A quick fix in paintbrush gives a better idea of what our eyes see in reality.

http://img842.imageshack.us/img842/2405/big31.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/842/big31.jpg/)

[dbales]

I'm liking where this is going.

[Buzo]

I'm liking where this is going.

And wait to see the video...

Here's a screenshot while the video uploads.
http://img210.imageshack.us/img210/338/hud1.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/210/hud1.jpg/)

[Buzo]

To be available in a few minutes.

http://youtu.be/tQLU1cH7WhU

[mykwikcoupe]

That is freakin awesome. One of the best uses of aftermarket thinking in a long time. I love it. I believe you said you can choose what you want it to display correct? Might make a great use for the guys that want gauges but dont have the places to put them. If you decide to market, Ill be a tester.

[Buzo]

That is freakin awesome. One of the best uses of aftermarket thinking in a long time. I love it. I believe you said you can choose what you want it to display correct? Might make a great use for the guys that want gauges but dont have the places to put them. If you decide to market, Ill be a tester.

Thanks and I appreciate it. I have several designs that I really want to put out for sale specifically for our cars, and for this community. I need to sit down and stop doing new things and just complete what I already have validated in my own car.

For instance, just updated my HUD so now it displays (with big numbers) the RPM whenever the MPH=0. As the car starts moving, it automatically switches to MPH, and will switch back to RPM while in a stop light.

It can display anything, either digital signals like RPM and Speed or any Analog signal like AFR, Temp, Fuel level, Battery voltage, etc. There are plenty of inputs into the microcontroller for all the gauges in the cluster and even extra things like boost gauges.

I don't know if you guys noticed but there is another video that I made that same day, the difference is that the car is not moving and I did rev the engine up so the RPM increment can be clearly seen. I think I also made a close up of the assembly and captured why the tint is needed, though.

Still want to add the RPM bar to the left of the big numbers. Just to be closer to an OEM HUD, even though I am limited to horizontal bars with this Display, it would be better than nothing!

http://youtu.be/u_JBakzIHZM

[Buzo]

Another rad solution from Buzo!!

During my daily testing I found that the HUD could not be seen at all if the sun hits the glass of the Display directly.

So I made a little plastic box around the HUD out of an old console I have. A plastic that will survive the exposure to heat and UV light.

The results were beyond expected, now I can see the info of my HUD even when the sun is in front of me.

I found a little loss of image when the sun is entering through the drivers window, but hey, I solved the problem for the remaining 350 degrees!

Words without pics are only words...so here you are...

http://img525.imageshack.us/img525/3643/box1uz.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/525/box1uz.jpg/)

http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/4715/box2g.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/207/box2g.jpg/)

[Buzo]

It was a nice and cloudy morning today and decided to remove the little piece of tint from the windshield, and found that the HUD looks pretty good without it. I know as soon as the sun raises in the sky I won't see anything, but I like what I have for my morning and night drives.

Note: I'm not over-speeding. I changed the scale to km/h...

http://img35.imageshack.us/img35/7271/notint1.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/35/notint1.jpg/)

http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/3977/notint2.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/155/notint2.jpg/)

[Buzo]

Just sharing some night pictures

http://img832.imageshack.us/img832/2325/night1k.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/832/night1k.jpg/)

http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/461/night2w.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/215/night2w.jpg/)

http://img607.imageshack.us/img607/6032/night3.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/607/night3.jpg/)

[b20a86lude]

Just thought this mite help u . 89-93 240sx have oem hud maybe u can get the parts at a local junkyard iv seen it and they use a bronze mirrror tint for displaying windshield http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g220/cutetalentedcub/Stuff%20For%20Sale/DSCN0923.jpg

[obdriver6]

WOW that HUD is coming along great, wish I had your skills!

[Buzo]

Remember when I said this?



...But also when I was programming the VFD, I did something that made the numbers displayed ultra-bright for several seconds, so I will try to understand how it works and hack it to make the numbers brighter than normal...


Well, This is what I meant:

http://img829.imageshack.us/img829/2250/boost3u.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/829/boost3u.jpg/)



I was able to increase the brightness by increasing the voltage of the grid.
I am sure this is going to help a lot, since I don't like very much the tint foil in my windshield.

We'll see! Still need to create the 60V out of the 12V from the battery, but I am almost there for adding this new feature to my HUD @ daytime-drive.

[89HatchbackLxi]

oooo... I want!

[Buzo]

By reading this post http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=78549 I got an idea for the unused section of my HUD.

Using the same technique OldSchool is using in his thread, print some color icons in an acetate, cut, glue them to the HUD location and light up the corresponding 5x7 bloke behind the icon.

Here is a quick simulation in paint of how the low fuel warning light, high beam, batt and temp would look like. Each Icon can have its own bar graph in the same color, since I have 4 rungs and 9 columns free. This just opens a new set of colorful possibilities for my HUD.

http://img222.imageshack.us/img222/2493/imagen115ce.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/222/imagen115ce.jpg/)

[89HatchbackLxi]

This just keeps getting better and better!

[bscanlan]

I love the fact that I am new to the site. I just read the entire thread and now I am excited to see what's next. Its like Christmas coming to think of this as a finished product.

[elarson88]

This is too cool! Who needs a new car when you can have this kind of technology put into your 3gee!! Your next project should be those rain sensing wipers that some new cars have.

[POS carb]

I'm holding out for the Lexus LFA style gauges :bong:

[Buzo]

There is only one technical problem with those fancy gauges: Resolution. All the Displays that might fit behind the steering wheel are very low resolution and instead of giving a modern look would give a retro (attari) look.

But I've been collecting all the pieces I need to implement something similar to this photoshop instead:

http://imageshack.us/a/img96/9756/photoshoppk.png (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/96/photoshoppk.png/)

I have all the gauge covers and a lot of ultra bright LEDs, I just need some time to put hands on. Maybe by the December holidays...

[Ayeobe]

I'm all good with the Atari look.

Cool stuff so far man! I doubt i'd buy one, but that's just cos im keeping mine stock..

[POS carb]

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/5/5d/Benc.png

I want a DANGER lamp

[Buzo]

A few random pics. There is room to put more info in the HUD, I just had been busy with other stuff.

http://img821.imageshack.us/img821/3551/snapshot20121025212714.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/821/snapshot20121025212714.jpg/)

http://img593.imageshack.us/img593/3158/snapshot20121025212421.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/593/snapshot20121025212421.jpg/)

http://img141.imageshack.us/img141/7272/snapshot20121025212256.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/141/snapshot20121025212256.jpg/)

http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/7886/snapshot20121025211653.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/152/snapshot20121025211653.jpg/)

[Buzo]

I finally drew the HUD mask, so I can use the left section of the HUD display.
This is going to be printed in an acetate (the ones for the old overhead projectors) using a laser color printer. Then the acetate will be just glued to the glass of the VFD.

The numbers still will be like made of small squares, but it should improve the reading.

There is clear advantage because now I can add the color gradient and I can give the increasing aspect to the bar graphs and the increased resolution to draw the symbols.

More during the weekend...


http://img22.imageshack.us/img22/8157/hudmask.png (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/22/hudmask.png/)

[Buzo]

The hardest part is done. Matching the printer's scale with the VFD.

http://imageshack.us/a/img641/5955/mask1h.th.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/641/mask1h.jpg/)

I'll be working in updating the code during the day to light up the correct pixels behind the mask. Fortunately I don't need to be out in the car to do this. I'll be inside the house and programming while watching the football games.

http://imageshack.us/a/img11/9149/mask2zt.th.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/11/mask2zt.jpg/)

As usual, its only a theory at this point. I hope it looks as good as in the 1st pic.

[2ndGenGuy]

Ah man that's gonna be sweet!

[EbidaDragon]

Oh my, sign me up!
Guessing you need a FI ECU for this, though, correct?

[Buzo]

Oh my, sign me up!
Guessing you need a FI ECU for this, though, correct?

No, it reads the signals directly from the cluster gauges. Tachometer, Odometer, Temp gauge, fuel gauge and directly from the oxygen sensor's output.



Ah man that's gonna be sweet!

Thanks John, I ran the first testing and realized that I need to put double mask, so the black sections really block the extra light.

Didn't finished today, but made the masks, ran the testing, and upgraded the original circuit with a new micro with more memory capacity.

[Buzo]

I can't see the imageshack link below anymore...
The masks are on top of the LCD and I guess meets the expectations.
But I can't upload the pics.
Next step is put it back in the car.

[Buzo]

Though I was going to get the imageshack link to attach pictures with the new look of the forum, but still missing in all my computers & different browsers.

Anyway, here is how it looks now. I wrote the code to be filling/unfilling the bars just to give me an idea of how it looks in all cases. Next step is to make the connections.

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/198/hud2x.jpg/][IMG]http://imageshack.us/a/img198/3080/hud2x.th.jpg


http://imageshack.us/a/img198/3080/hud2x.th.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/198/hud2x.jpg/)

http://imageshack.us/a/img838/1275/hud1h.th.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/838/hud1h.jpg/)

http://imageshack.us/a/img840/2080/hud3u.th.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/840/hud3u.jpg/)

[griffs68]

any new news on this?

[Buzo]

Long time since the last update to this thread.

But here I am again with another version of an HUD. Its based in a POV (persistance of vision) system where a small motor is spinning and a microprocessor turns on and off LEDs to draw something that seems to be drawn in the air.

A POV can be purchased by anyone over Internet and there are USB programmers already available to draw almost anything with it.

I decided to build my own and here is how it is going so far. The idea is to put the POV above the instrument panel to see the car's info as if it was floating in the air right in front of me. It doesn't make too much noise or wind. I guess its quiet enough for the car.

I am testing here with numbers, but I want to simulate 4 gauges into the same circle, divide the circle in four parts for RPM, MPH, Fuel Level and Temp and draw a small pointer to the current level to make it less busy.

The next step is to make a heavy duty PCB and add red LEDs to the warning sections of the indicators, because this one is just glued together and I put a lot of flying wires.

Edit to add another picture.

[conozo]

On the other system, Instead of regular tint, is there tint available that gets darker with the sun is out. I'm thinking of those glasses that get dark when outside automatically.

[2ndGenGuy]

Oh man! POV gauges! How cool is that going to be?! :-o

[conozo]

just had another idea, what about using those rear view mirrors with the backup camera screen built in, could that be connected to display data.

[Buzo]

Finished the mechanic portion of the project. I used a bigger DC motor taken out of an old deskjet printer to get more RPM / less blinking.
Hope I can install it in the car today for a quick demo.

[Clockworkz]

This is turning out pretty good. I never thought about putting in a HUD in ny car until this.

Nice work :thumbup:

Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk 2

[Buzo]

This is to show how you can see through the device while it is spinning at high speed.
Also a couple of views of the motor and pcb.

I see the following technical things that we need to resolve:

1) We need to put at least one brush to pass the + to the spinning PCB, the negative can be sent through the motor shaft.
2) Add counterweights to balance the PCB, or there would be a lot of vibration
3) In this case I selected a thin PCB because I wanted to reduce weight, but I fount it get twisted with the speed and the components. A standard 3mm PCB is better

The idea is to put the motor right on top of the plastic cover of the instrument panel, so the word FUEL can be seen below the steering wheel and the needle indicator on top. I will use the mirror adjusting control to navigate through different things to display.

In case you didn't notice it, the fuel level is almost half tank hahaha.

[Legend_master]

This is to show how you can see through the device while it is spinning at high speed.
Also a couple of views of the motor and pcb.

I see the following technical things that we need to resolve:

1) We need to put at least one brush to pass the + to the spinning PCB, the negative can be sent through the motor shaft.
2) Add counterweights to balance the PCB, or there would be a lot of vibration
3) In this case I selected a thin PCB because I wanted to reduce weight, but I fount it get twisted with the speed and the components. A standard 3mm PCB is better

The idea is to put the motor right on top of the plastic cover of the instrument panel, so the word FUEL can be seen below the steering wheel and the needle indicator on top. I will use the mirror adjusting control to navigate through different things to display.

In case you didn't notice it, the fuel level is almost half tank hahaha.

That has got to be one of the most unique display ideas I have seen. What about completely removing the cluster and putting that in its place? You could put a dark shade over it, this would make it so you could only when the display lit up. Otherwise would just look like a tinted window.

[Oldblueaccord]

Do you know anything about canbus? I would love one for a tach output.

[Buzo]

Thanks everyone for your comments & ideas.

I finished balancing the PCB by holding it with a screwdriver and adding/removing counterweights I got from a ceiling fan balancing kit.
Then added the positive brush from the brushes left from my recent alternator fix.

The motor works quieter and the brush works very well.

Time to install it in the car, or at least on top of the cluster cover

[Oldblueaccord]

On the other system, Instead of regular tint, is there tint available that gets darker with the sun is out. I'm thinking of those glasses that get dark when outside automatically.

The huds i looked at online you usually have to add a dark tint patch to the windshield to make it show good in daylight.

[Buzo]

Here is a quick test-fit in the car.
The LEDs are too bright for the night but that can be fixed by adding another resistor value in series with the LEDs.
The camera's flash reflects back in the LEDs, so we see those circles in the picture, but they aren't there live.

The objective is to eliminate the ghosting generated with the HUD reflected in the windshield and be able to see it during the day.

[Buzo]

That has got to be one of the most unique display ideas I have seen. What about completely removing the cluster and putting that in its place? You could put a dark shade over it, this would make it so you could only when the display lit up. Otherwise would just look like a tinted window.

I really would like to do something like this. I am looking for small dc motors at this time. I do have a spare cluster case to start building it.

I even have another idea for which I already have all I need. Use one of the plastic covers of the MPH gauge on top of the dash, and put a bright light underneat so the numbers can be projected to the windshield even in dailight (add brightness control to reduce it at night). Then the POV will be spinning drawing the pointing arrow only. Something similar to the yellow car's photoshop I posted below in this thread.

[Buzo]

Do you know anything about canbus? I would love one for a tach output.

Sorry I don't. Any place you know to get information?

[cygnus x-1]

Do you know anything about canbus? I would love one for a tach output.

I know a little about it but not much. What are you trying to do?


C|

[Buzo]

The first picture is one of the best pictures my camera has taken of this project.
Its hard to capture a complete picture due to the slow refresh rate.
But if you remember It happened also with the VF display.
Here you can see the 'flying' effect of the graphics.

The second pic is how it looks in the car at daylight and shows the size of the graphics related to the standard gauges.

Added a third picture to show the POV off. I put it temporarily in a piece of wood, because there is a lot to do with it yet, like adding the Bluetooth module to be able to receive the real information of the car.

[Buzo]

I can draw almost anything at this time.
Before I put it permanently in the car I am going to double the resolution and re-design the PCB to make it self balanced, I mean, put the same number and type of components in both sides of center of the PCB.
The left and right arrows in the pics will be connected to the turn signals of the car and will blink accordingly.

Edit, there was room for a third picture, so here it is. This is how it looks w/o the turn signal arrows which will be normally off. Also it barelly shows the red LED of the base of the floating pointing arrow. It looks much better live.

[Oldblueaccord]

Sorry I don't. Any place you know to get information?

What is CAN Bus? (http://canbuskit.com/what.php)

Its what all new cars use.


I have been looking for a shift light or aftermarket tac for my 2011 Challenger. The tach in the dash is about useless.

The have hud displays the usd the obd2 for data input. But that would be slow i would think.

Auto Parts & Accessories & Performance ADD hud Mph head up display gogoautoshop.com (http://gogoautoshop.com/head-up-display-hud-obd-canbus.html)

[2oodoor]

Controled area network, study hard before you add anything to existing circuits.

[Buzo]

I'm in love with this project as you can see.

I put a screw with nuts as counterweight in the less populated side of the PCB, so I can adjust until I get perfect balance.
So all the vibration is gone and it only sounds like a little fan.

[Buzo]

There are some more things to resolve.

1) We can see a little blink in the numbers in the POV, we need a motor with higher speed or put two or maybe three series of LEDs. I already built a new PCB with LEDs in both sides so I can see if its going to be enough or need the third branch.

2) A bluetooth pair should be easy to implement, but I got the idea of using the Opto-Sensor that detects the sinchronization pulse to send the data to display one bit at the time.

I was more concerned with the mechanical installation than the way to send information to the POV. But with the vibration and light intensity control I added, I feel comfortable to go ahead with the next steps.

Thank you all for reading!

[Buzo]

I finished the latest PCBs last night.

The project will have two PCBs and two microcontrollers, one will be fixed reading the signals from the back of the gauges and the menu buttons.
At the same time it will be passing the data to be displayed to the second micro in the spinning PCB through an infra-red wireless connection.

[Oldblueaccord]

BTT. Liked this project!

[NotSoLowAccord]

Can't wait! If it turns out good, make a few of them so I can buy one from ya, lol.

I have that app from the 2nd pic installed on my ipod, It works pretty decent for a simple HUD for nighttime driving at least.
What is that app?

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk