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import racer
05-19-2012, 01:20 PM
Hey I need some help,I went over town and stop at my mom's for about an hour.when I went to leave car won't start,It rolls fine but won't start.had no problem with it til now.Its getting gas because I hit the gas when trying to start and I could smell gas.I left it sit for half hour and tryed again and it still just rolls.Can anyone help with what i can check,don't really have the money to get her towed.:ugh:

import racer
05-19-2012, 05:04 PM
Well i guess i'll just have try things like main relay,ignighter and coil.

import racer
05-20-2012, 01:40 PM
Well I changed the main relay the old one was corroded inside.Probably from the leak I had from the antenna.But now I get a code 14,that's the iac right.The problem is I can't get it out because one of the screws are chewed up.Any ideas how I can get it out short of busting it and using vise grips to get it out.

import racer
05-20-2012, 02:18 PM
Well I'm stupid ,forgot I had the valve unplugged.But the idle still fluctuates from 1200-1400 and when I rev it up it drops down to almost 0 and stall out.Can someone help with this.I spent most of the day working on this and it frustrating as hell.

import racer
05-21-2012, 05:36 AM
Come on guys can't someone help?

import racer
05-21-2012, 04:54 PM
So I bled the cooling system again today,got some air bubbles out and it seems to be running better.Gonna adjust the timing tomorrow cause it seems to be hard on gas.

ecogabriel
05-22-2012, 06:47 AM
IAC? Is that the idle valve attached to the front of the intake manifold?

From what I have seen in jy (mine does not have that) it seemed attached with bolts. If the head is rounded up you might try (if there is room) hitting it with a hammer, or I would try slipping a slightly smaller socket. I have used this to remove a broken oil pump stud,

http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-19250-Stuck-Bolt-Remover/dp/B000P0TZZG

There should be a size that fits the bolt's head. Basically, you pick the right size, hammer it to the top of the stripped bolt, and then unscrew it.

To prevent those bolt heads from being rounded up, I use six-sided sockets instead of the star-patterned ones that are common with the tool sets. I keep some in the most commonly used sizes (14mm, 19mm, 17mm) My smaller socket set is all six-sided and it is decent (stanley)

import racer
05-22-2012, 09:21 AM
Thanks man but i thought it was the one on the end of the intake which are Phillips heads but I was wrong.Forgot I unplugged the eacv.

import racer
05-23-2012, 04:27 PM
Man I went out this morning and the car started right up,shut it off and tried it again and all she did was roll no start.So took out the dizzy and tried one I had laying around,actually I have 4or5 but so are only half there.Anyway I changed that and it started up but the idle was going up and down again.I'm not sure if my problem is electrical or fuel related .Guess I could check the fuel pressure if I can get a gauge,what should the pressure be like 38-40.

Legend_master
05-23-2012, 04:36 PM
Have you checked for any vacuum leaks?

2oodoor
05-23-2012, 04:42 PM
Anything going on with the car prior to the trip over town?
You can't just replace parts without real testing or you will get lost in it ok so iac won't keep the car from running it just wont idle right.

import racer
05-24-2012, 01:03 PM
I can't find any vacuum leaks,and nothing other than an idle issue before this happened.I guess it could be the main relay,I can try and re solder one since I have 3.

Legend_master
05-24-2012, 02:50 PM
I can't find any vacuum leaks,and nothing other than an idle issue before this happened.I guess it could be the main relay,I can try and re solder one since I have 3.

Does not sound like the mainfuel pump relay. A good test for that, just turn the ignition to Aux and listen for the click from the relay. Then the fuel pump will prime. If that happens, and the car does not start its not the relay.

ecogabriel
05-24-2012, 03:49 PM
Thanks man but i thought it was the one on the end of the intake which are Phillips heads but I was wrong.Forgot I unplugged the eacv.

My bad, that might be the air temperature sensor (cannot remember the initials).

2oodoor
05-24-2012, 04:30 PM
IAT^^^
this sounds like it may two different issues. Next time it won't crank just pull a plug out if its wet then its ignition or poor fuel. , then You can hook the plug on the wire and hold it to ground while somebody cranks the car you should see nice blue bright spark

Its hard not to over complicate diagnosing when theres intermitent faults like this so start with a baseline like above. If it does run and won't idle then it likely isn't main relay or primary ignition parts and its going to be secondary ignition or something on the intake air control not excluding vac leak.
Hope this helps, I see guys get all tangled up in running down mystery problems so my best tip is to apply logic constants and keep the systems separated in your mind

import racer
05-25-2012, 05:47 PM
Thanks guys,I tried to start it today several times and started every time.But like I said I rev it up and let off the gas and the revs drop down to nothing and almost stalls,and then it catches itself and goes back to about 1000 rpm.I'm gonna change the fuel pump,do you think that it could be going bad and act like this.

Legend_master
05-25-2012, 08:05 PM
Thanks guys,I tried to start it today several times and started every time.But like I said I rev it up and let off the gas and the revs drop down to nothing and almost stalls,and then it catches itself and goes back to about 1000 rpm.I'm gonna change the fuel pump,do you think that it could be going bad and act like this.

From what I'm reading I agree its sounds like your having an intake problem. The idle air valve could be acting up. You could try disconnecting it,and raise the idle to see if the car will run without it.

import racer
05-26-2012, 06:18 AM
Yeah I can't get the IAT sensor out cause one of the screws head is fucked,the wires are splice there so I'll check them.So if I disconnect that and bump up the idle it will run like that?

2oodoor
05-26-2012, 06:58 AM
From what I'm reading I agree its sounds like your having an intake problem. The idle air valve could be acting up. You could try disconnecting it,and raise the idle to see if the car will run without it.

This^^^
I assume you cleaned the throttle body butterfly area good with throttle body spray already.
You had distributor out so i assume too the timing was checked, that affects base idle speed as well.
On efi the air controls idle quality more so than the fuel delivery side.
A vacuum guage would be helpful.

import racer
05-26-2012, 10:17 AM
So i borrowed a vacuum gauge today and checked and I only have 10 pounds vacuum.I bumped the dizzy ahead and now won't start again and I smell fuel.So is it my dizzy thats the problem.

ecogabriel
05-26-2012, 10:29 AM
This^^^
On efi the air controls idle quality more so than the fuel delivery side.
A vacuum guage would be helpful.

Engine reacts to any single increase in air flow; e.g. the A/C idle booster just allows more air to flow in. Same for the IACV (though 86-87 and 88-89 have different systems)
I would check fuel pressure; what you may need is a banjo bolt that allows to connect a gauge (that is the way I did it) though there may be other ways to hook up a pressure gauge. As for pressure ranges, I believe they are in the 30ish range but the service manual is the source to get that. Also, lf you clamp close the return hose, fuel pressure will rise quite substantially, and your idle speed should rise if you have a idle control valve working

EDIT: as roodoo says, if you have not cleaned up the TB plate it is a good idea to REMOVE it and clean it up. In my car, touching the screw would not cause ANY change in idle speed; after removal, I found a mound of black stuff where the screw was. You most likely need a new o-ring for the screw otherwise it may become loose - I have just tried at NAPA until I found one that worked

import racer
05-26-2012, 12:58 PM
So why won't it start after moving dizzy,i put it back where it was and still won't run..

Legend_master
05-26-2012, 01:06 PM
So why won't it start after moving dizzy,i put it back where it was and still won't run..

Maybe its a matter of coensodence,

import racer
05-26-2012, 02:44 PM
Ok so I cleaned out the TB ,ajust the dizzy alittle.Tried to start it and it sounded like it wanted to start,so i cranked it about a minute and it started.Also when i gave it some gas it didn't want to stall like it did before.The problem now is the cel is on,code 6 which is the ECT correct.I check the plug t's on and it's spliced but I soldered them.I know there is a way to test the sensor right?

Legend_master
05-26-2012, 02:56 PM
Ok so I cleaned out the TB ,ajust the dizzy alittle.Tried to start it and it sounded like it wanted to start,so i cranked it about a minute and it started.Also when i gave it some gas it didn't want to stall like it did before.The problem now is the cel is on,code 6 which is the ECT correct.I check the plug t's on and it's spliced but I soldered them.I know there is a way to test the sensor right?

Try starting it while pressing the gas just a slight bit (to let a little more air in the TB). Also take off the iacv and clean it out. As far as the extra, either bad wiring or failed sensor.

import racer
05-26-2012, 05:45 PM
could it be the ect that's been my problem and it just didn't throw a code til now.

import racer
05-27-2012, 07:53 AM
So I found a break in the wire right at the plug on the ect,need to find some connectors to fix that.But what is causing my low vacuum,it still showing 10 on the gauge and I know it should be 20.

ecogabriel
05-27-2012, 09:01 AM
So I found a break in the wire right at the plug on the ect,need to find some connectors to fix that.But what is causing my low vacuum,it still showing 10 on the gauge and I know it should be 20.

It is possible to disassemble the connectors and re-solder the wires - I had to do precisely that. However, my wires were so brittle that I ended up getting replacement wiring from a jy 3g and replacing them.

import racer
05-27-2012, 11:18 AM
Yeah mine always seem to break right where they go into the plug.And I talked to my brother,he's where I borrowed the vacuum gauge and the last time he used it he only got 10 too.So I think his gauge is screwed,gonna check Canadian tire or Napa for those connectors.

import racer
05-31-2012, 06:50 AM
So the car started right up today but the engine light was on.So checked and have code 7,TPS is there a test for this.Can it go just like this or more likely a broken wire in the connector.

Legend_master
05-31-2012, 06:54 AM
So the car started right up today but the engine light was on.So checked and have code 7,TPS is there a test for this.Can it go just like this or more likely a broken wire in the connector.

Hard to say, the only way to test it is with a multimeter and some alligator clips. You need to test the resistance, but I am not sure the range on those. Look in the shop manual, it will tell you everything you need to know.

import racer
05-31-2012, 07:51 AM
Well I spliced another plug on and got rid of code 7 and now code 6 again.The car just surges constantly at idle from 1000-1200.I'm soon gonna blow this thing up,had alot less problems with my old carbed car.

Legend_master
05-31-2012, 08:28 AM
Well I sliced another plug on and got rid of code 7 and now code 6 again.The car just surges constantly at idle from 1000-1200.I'm soon gonna blow this thing up,had alot less problems with my old carbed car.

Ok, well we have said this about 5 times now with no answer. HAVE YOU CLEANED THE THERMO VALVE, AND THE IAC VALVE? That sounds like your problem, they may need to be cleaned, or replaced. You do have to keep in mind these cars are 20+ years old, and some of the first designs for four point fuel injection. Download the manual, fallow all the procedures in the "Idle control system".

import racer
05-31-2012, 08:56 AM
Yes I have cleaned the iacv,Don't know about iac.I know these are 20 year old cars but It seems every time I fix one thing something else screws up.Wish I could get a new harness for this but I'm sure they don't make them.I had a ect sensor in my parts and swapped that and the light went out,so I guess I'll just clear the codes and see.

Legend_master
05-31-2012, 09:34 AM
Yes I have cleaned the iacv,Don't know about iac.I know these are 20 year old cars but It seems every time I fix one thing something else screws up.Wish I could get a new harness for this but I'm sure they don't make them.I had a ect sensor in my parts and swapped that and the light went out,so I guess I'll just clear the codes and see.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v667/Legend_Master/d4219750.jpg

Clean the item marked "fast idle valve" in this picture. This may be your problem, if it is bad you will still have the problem.

2oodoor
05-31-2012, 10:24 AM
Well I sliced another plug on and got rid of code 7 and now code 6 again.The car just surges constantly at idle from 1000-1200.I'm soon gonna blow this thing up,had alot less problems with my old carbed car.

If you took a video of this happening we may be able to think of something else we're missing by your descriptions.
A good panorama around the engine compartment and back around to the gauges would be useful.


A good example, not saying this is what's wrong with your car, would be the ac short cycling due to low refrigerant which in writing would make this same symptom

And just to clarify, if you are wiggling and unplugging things while the car is running, it's going to set codes that are not necessarily the ones you need for diagnostics

import racer
05-31-2012, 04:58 PM
Thanks guys ,I had the fiv cleaned when I cleaned the eacv.Yeah I moved the plug that used to go to egr and the idle changed.I started it up again and it didn't surge like it did but it had not warmed up yet,so I'll have to see if it's better tomorrow .Like I said I wish there were replacement harnesses available.

import racer
06-07-2012, 09:43 AM
Cars still running weird I took top off fiv when running,Is it supposed to be a vacuum with that off.When I start it and rev it the idle comes down til it hits 1500 then stops suddenly,still can't get this to run right.I have another fiv in pieces but not sure how it goes together.anyone have a diagram of one.

Legend_master
06-07-2012, 10:06 AM
Cars still running weird I took top off fiv when running,Is it supposed to be a vacuum with that off.When I start it and rev it the idle comes down til it hits 1500 then stops suddenly,still can't get this to run right.I have another fiv in pieces but not sure how it goes together.anyone have a diagram of one.

There is an entire section of the shop manual devotes to the idle system.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v667/Legend_Master/73cf7fb2.jpg

import racer
06-07-2012, 04:51 PM
Thanks legend in have the downloaded manual is that the one you mean,It's been acting weird since i changed a hose to the fiv so I'm thinking that that where my problem is but not sure what.

Legend_master
06-07-2012, 05:30 PM
Thanks legend in have the downloaded manual is that the one you mean,It's been acting weird since i changed a hose to the fiv so I'm thinking that that where my problem is but not sure what.

Yes its the manual that's 29 megs.

import racer
06-11-2012, 04:25 PM
Ok so it seems to start ok but sometimes it fetches when trying to roll.Not sure if it's flywheel or the distributor related.

import racer
06-14-2012, 02:09 PM
Well car's been starting and running pretty good so far,but today when coasting to a stop she revved to 1500 by itself.When i touched the brakes it went back to normal.And i also lost power steering so when i got home check the belt because i know it's stretched but it was my resiviour was empty so checked the lines and it's leaking from the big one from the rack.so i have to make up a line for that or maybe use rubber hose if it's to hard to make.

import racer
06-21-2012, 12:19 PM
Well i fixed the hose and then found that one of the lines to speed sensor was leaking ,so i fixed that.But i still have the issue with the tach going up to 12-1500when slowing down,not sure what's causing this.Legend do you still think it's fiv related.

import racer
06-22-2012, 04:36 PM
It's just like something is stepping on the gas,it usually happens under 50 when my foot is off the gas.

import racer
06-23-2012, 05:22 PM
Bump!