more wire tuck stuff

[lostforawhile]

I started working on the harness and cleaning it up for the second time, it looks a little different without that huge fuse box under the hood. I'm going to put a cannon plug on the inner fender and run the engine harness from there. I don't have much left to run anyway. All I have are six wires for the passenger side light motor, a temp sender, oil pressure switch, a temp switch on the back of the block, the dizzy has it's own cannon plug,as does the coil, and the ignition is under the dash anyway. I'm probably going to put the fuse box on the firewall/kick panel under the dash. The cooling fans will get their own relay and fuse, and run off of the distribution block on the firewall.

http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/s320x320/541997_10150998620082018_631682017_12019318_118933 5646_n.jpg

distribution block

http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/s320x320/149473_10150998633312018_359714799_n.jpg

after I got the fender off I pulled the harness inside, this is the mess I need to straighten out, I'm probably going to wire number everything and cut about 3 feet out of the harness. The fans will run off their own fuse at the distribution block, with their own relay. Ignition power simply is the positive side of the relay coil and the negative side is the thermo switch. I'll use the factory fuse and relay to run the oil cooler blower. It looks like the headlight motor relays will be able to mount to the top of the new fuse box bracket, so those will be out of the way, and I'll probably run all my fog lamp and driving lamp relays inside of the car, I can use the factory sunroof circuit and relay in the fuse box. Once all the old carb control crap is gone and the wires are neatly routed and loomed, it will pretty much look factory.
http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/s320x320/547809_10150998628642018_631682017_12019327_154842 429_n.jpg

new fuse box brackets
http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/s320x320/547284_10151001965547018_611059661_n.jpg
http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/s320x320/72807_10151001963057018_631682017_12030106_1032364 560_n.jpg

http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/s320x320/574776_10151001959917018_631682017_12030098_464700 466_n.jpg

fuse box brackets screwed to firewall, I installed three rivnuts then used machine screws

http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/s320x320/535851_10151003143252018_631682017_12034368_154831 8020_n.jpg
http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/s320x320/522167_10151003146077018_631682017_12034375_258033 652_n.jpg

[lostforawhile]

does anyone have any idea where to get that cloth wire braid stuff? I've seen some nice harnesses made with it, but I can't source it, it will be weeks before I can afford it anyway, but I would still like to know where to get it

[mykwikcoupe]

what size diameter do you need. i have a few sizes but I cant promise its small or large enough for what you are going to be looking for. Wanna make a trade for those suspension components and ill pay shipping both ways.
On the fuse panel plate, what used to go there or what did you move to make room for it. I thought the ac/heater box went all the way from the passenger door to the center vents?

[turabaka]

are you talking about the nylon braided stuff? McMaster-Carr has it
Here's a link. http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-cable-sleeving/=homigw

I ended up resleeving all of the cables on my computer power supply with it, and it's surprisingly cheap and easy to work with.

[lostforawhile]

what size diameter do you need. i have a few sizes but I cant promise its small or large enough for what you are going to be looking for. Wanna make a trade for those suspension components and ill pay shipping both ways.
On the fuse panel plate, what used to go there or what did you move to make room for it. I thought the ac/heater box went all the way from the passenger door to the center vents?

yea we could trade I'll be getting to that stuff right after the holiday, we are going up to see my dad for his birthday, I got rid of the ac years ago, I use a 4 inch silicone hose now, the blower is out in this picture but everything clears with plenty of room , I have the washer tank there and the fuse panel next to it, then the msd box and controls are on a plate to the right of it, but they are upside down and underneath the glovebox area. I had everything bolted up that goes there and it all fits.

[lostforawhile]

are you talking about the nylon braided stuff? McMaster-Carr has it
Here's a link. http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-cable-sleeving/=homigw

I ended up resleeving all of the cables on my computer power supply with it, and it's surprisingly cheap and easy to work with.

I think this is closer to what the OEMs use, this is the high heat resistant stuff,which you really need under the hood. http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-cable-sleeving/=hommg7

[A18A]

The average person looking at your engine bay would never believe you done a wire tuck lol

[lostforawhile]

The average person looking at your engine bay would never believe you done a wire tuck lol

there are only a few wires under the hood at all. just the dizzy and coil plugs to the firewall, fan wires, sensor for fuel pressure, back up switch, and a few others.

[lostforawhile]

Ok after hours in the car and not being able to feel the lower half of my body, the headlight motor relays are wired and one fuse box plug, the rest will go pretty quick, the wire ties are just to rough out the harness http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/205309_10151018873932018_631682017_12092295_109128 3236_n.jpg

[lostforawhile]

I went out there in the heat and humidity in the garage and got something done, this is the complete distribution block on the firewall, it even gives me a place to attach jumper cables if needed,since the battery is remote mounted.

http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/electricalcrap003.jpg
the starter cable is made and installed

http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/electricalcrap005.jpg

I'm working on the routing of the 6 gauge alternator cable right now, that's the reason the terminals aren't insulated or anything, I pulled a terminal block from an early Lude, then put it in the mill to add an extra slot, it's now a T connector, I'm running the alternator cable from it's fuse to the block,then along the recess in the front cross member, at the terminal block I ran an inline 30 amp fuse,then tapped off of it for the radiator fans.
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/electricalcrap012.jpg

radiator fan relay, I put it in the same location as where the old headlight motor relays used to be, I get these from the yard, they are from full size Ford stuff, it's a FOAB-14B194-DC they are really good high current relays with a socket, more on the relay in a minute.

http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/electricalcrap008.jpg

fan harness I used the original plugs and left the radiator wiring alone, It plugs in just like factory.

http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/electricalcrap010.jpg
while the radiator was out, this is where I hid my canister on the front cross member , it still needs to be plumbed,but thats a different project

http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/electricalcrap013.jpg
with the radiator back in, the canister,terminal block and relay all vanish.


http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/electricalcrap014.jpg

[Hazwan]

Did you paint the bay with a paint brush?

[lostforawhile]

Did you paint the bay with a paint brush?I had too no way to spray it in this tiny garage painting it a section at a time

[lostforawhile]

The alternator wire is in and clears everything, I ran it in firebraid because of the proximity to the radiator and hose, and the header, I'm waiting on the plug to get here,then I can solder it in and seal up the ends with heat shrink. It will go all the way to the terminal ends, it's just slid back.

http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/599555_10151056922732018_2070702107_n.jpg
the fan shrouds need painting and cleaning up, but I haven't even had a chance to think about that yet.
http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/522555_10151056924552018_838818215_n.jpg

this is a good picture of the prelude junction block, the other slot for the 6 gauge mil spec wire was added on the mill. the extra wires are for the alternator, it's not loomed yet,just tucked out of the way for the moment .

http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/543231_10151056927507018_1209931163_n.jpg

http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/598856_10151056932342018_1491860065_n.jpg

http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/229830_10151056937417018_407176836_n.jpg

[hatch88lxi]

god this is awesome!

[lostforawhile]

I will try and get some more pictures when I can get a chance to fix my camera

[lostforawhile]

for a note, if you have a dx without power windows, by going to the yard and cutting off the fusebox pigtail for the power windows,and pulling the relay from an LXI or LX, you have the option of four fused ignition controlled circuits using the factory fuses and relay. On the DX that plug simply isn't plugged into the fuse box at all. you pry off the little cover tabs on the four power window relay fuse locations, the cover off of the power window relay base, plug in the fuses and the relay, and wire as follows

green/black is the relay coil hot wire side
black is the relay coil ground

fuse location 17 is white/yellow
fuse location 18 is blue/black
fuse location 15 is yellow/black
fuse location 16 is green/black


you will have to be careful because both the hot side of the relay coil and one of the fuse outs are both green/and black I'm going to look at the harness to double check this, Honda likes green and black wires,two wires in two locations in the same plug both the same colors

[lostforawhile]

I was correct two black with green wires right next to each other, you just have to use a meter to identify the one that goes to the relay socket,. all the other wire colors are different. Another trick with a DX, pull the sub cooling fan relay and pigtail from an LXI ,plug in the sub cooling fan pigtail and you have current in and out of the relay, plus the hot and ground side of the relay coil, this is excellent for running fogs, the only thing to remember is that circuit isn't fused, you need to add a fuse, the other circuit with the power window relays is fused. since I got rid of the factory carb, the 30 amp PTC fuse no longer does anything, I'll just loop it back into the sub cooling fan relay and there's my master fog lamp relay