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bryan42688
07-10-2012, 10:42 AM
Hello never done this before don't even know if I am posting in the right place I have searched around with no luck though I am sure the information is available but could some one give me a howto on how to put my battery in the trunk. I was simply thinking attach a zero gauge at where it connects to battery now, pull that wire to trunk, mount the battery tray( will prob have to drill a hole in the trunk), mount battery and then hook the negative cable up to the floor. I am sorry for the posting if the seem ridiculous. I would also be interested in knowing if there is just a better place to put it under the hood. I do have the black box and vacuum canister out of my car and it is the carburetored model this is my second 3gee and I love my baby thanks in advanced

lostforawhile
07-10-2012, 01:25 PM
Hello never done this before don't even know if I am posting in the right place I have searched around with no luck though I am sure the information is available but could some one give me a howto on how to put my battery in the trunk. I was simply thinking attach a zero gauge at where it connects to battery now, pull that wire to trunk, mount the battery tray( will prob have to drill a hole in the trunk), mount battery and then hook the negative cable up to the floor. I am sorry for the posting if the seem ridiculous. I would also be interested in knowing if there is just a better place to put it under the hood. I do have the black box and vacuum canister out of my car and it is the carburetored model this is my second 3gee and I love my baby thanks in advanced

you need a proper battery box bolted through the trunk floor for one thing, not a trolling motor plastic battery box, you need a breaker or maxi fuse as close to the battery as possible, the cable needs to be routed in such a way that it's protected against damage, rubber hose grommets etc, and you will need a junction block for the alternator lug and fuse box wire

POS carb
07-10-2012, 02:00 PM
I did this. I bought a big ass copper lug at home depot and put that on the fuse box where the battery cable used to be and ran a 0 gauge to the trunk. It's tough to find a good ground back there, any heavy bolt will do.

You should get a sealed battery box and vent it out and strap it down. I have no trunk liner and a group 49 fits snugly in the corner with no box and vented through the floor. with the liner and box you will need a smaller battery

POS carb
07-10-2012, 02:01 PM
oh yea you will also need a method of splitting power at the fuse box to the trunk, starter, and alternator, like an audio distribution block. Also you need to install a 100amp inline fuse or breaker at the battery unless car fires are your thing.

lostforawhile
07-10-2012, 02:36 PM
oh yea you will also need a method of splitting power at the fuse box to the trunk, starter, and alternator, like an audio distribution block. Also you need to install a 100amp inline fuse or breaker at the battery unless car fires are your thing.
run battery power directly to the starter lug, connect the alternator power wire to the same lug, run at least a six gauge cable from the fuse box to the altenator lug. You could run it to the starter lug too but I don;t think there are enough threads. You don't need a 0 gauge wire, 2 gauge is more then enough for this car, O gauge is really hard to run and route through the car, plus it's extremely expensive, you are starting a small 4 cylinder not a big block blown motor If you look at a second generation I believe Accord there is a fusible link box with two fusible links, this is another option to run power to the fuse box and the alternator,with one wire to the starter lug. You will have to change the value of the links but you can get them at autoparts stores

lostforawhile
07-10-2012, 02:58 PM
has anyone tried the 100 amp fuse to verify it doesn't blow when starting the car? I have a 150 amp breaker, but I was just wondering. I like the breaker better because if for some reason the starter blew it I can reset it with a pushbutton I needed a junction block so I used an ANL fuse holder i had and mounted it in a box under the passenger seat, it's a 200 amp last ditch fuse, if the breaker didn't blow, this would without the battery cable melting

dieselgus
07-10-2012, 06:47 PM
Most DC breakers trip at 200% rated (so, your 150A breaker actually trips in and around 300A). Your average fuse will go at around 150% rated.

I personally would stick with something resettable like a good quality Bussman breaker. The breaker also alows you to hit the button to open the circuit if needed for troubleshooting or maintenence. Fuses are great for anything under 60A draws, or say huge draws like electric forklift lift pump and drive motors (usually in and around 350-400A draws). Six of one, half a dozen of the other. On this small motor, unless you are in northern manitoba in the dead of winter with a car you forgot to plug in, 100A should be ok (probably be wiser to go 125A though)


Just my 2 cents on the matter.

POS carb
07-11-2012, 07:17 AM
I just looked over the system, I am running 4-gauge to the front, 120 fuse at the battery.
It's been on there a long time. The 0 is going to the starter

import racer
07-11-2012, 12:47 PM
If someone could post a diagram that would help people alot.

POS carb
07-12-2012, 08:54 AM
http://carphotos3.cardomain.com/images/0015/32/76/15862367_large.jpg

bryan42688
07-12-2012, 06:30 PM
Omfg thank u this should be sticky

Hauntd ca3
07-14-2012, 11:49 PM
why you would want to move the batt to the boot is beyond me.
a complete waste of time and money

lostforawhile
07-15-2012, 04:54 AM
why you would want to move the batt to the boot is beyond me.
a complete waste of time and money

better weight distribution,although getting something like an odyssey will save about 20 pounds too, and clearance under the hood. I have an oil cooler sitting where the battery was, another good reason is you are moving the battery away from heat and vibration which shorten it's life

A18A
07-15-2012, 05:01 AM
yeah I reckon the only worthwhile advantage is more space in the engine bay. these cars are bad enough stock for space if you like your 'luxuries'.

import racer
07-15-2012, 11:28 AM
Plus it gives you more room for cold air intake.

Keachman1
07-15-2012, 06:30 PM
Better weight distribution, less cluttered engine bay, more room to install fixed HID headlights, makes it a breeze to install an amp in the trunk, the breaker in the trunk makes it convenient to kill the power easily, and the battery lasts 2-3 times longer away from the harsh environment. I've had my battery in the trunk for 6 or 7 years and it was 2 years old when I moved it back there so my battery is 8 or 9 years old and still starts like a champ. My mom had a Buick Riviera for 12 years and she never had to replace the battery because they are under the rear seat in the passenger compartment. I just wish I could mount my alternator back there out of the heat. I'm on my 5th alternator from AutoZone. It was one of the best mods I have done to my car other than the megajolt lite, getting rid of my distributor, and installing HID headlights. I highly recommend this mod.

lostforawhile
07-15-2012, 06:53 PM
Better weight distribution, less cluttered engine bay, more room to install fixed HID headlights, makes it a breeze to install an amp in the trunk, the breaker in the trunk makes it convenient to kill the power easily, and the battery lasts 2-3 times longer away from the harsh environment. I've had my battery in the trunk for 6 or 7 years and it was 2 years old when I moved it back there so my battery is 8 or 9 years old and still starts like a champ. My mom had a Buick Riviera for 12 years and she never had to replace the battery because they are under the rear seat in the passenger compartment. I just wish I could mount my alternator back there out of the heat. I'm on my 5th alternator from AutoZone. It was one of the best mods I have done to my car other than the megajolt lite, getting rid of my distributor, and installing HID headlights. I highly recommend this mod.

alternator has nothing to do with the heat,quit buying the autozone ones,they are crap

Keachman1
07-16-2012, 03:56 PM
AutoZone anything is crap. I bought one 10 years ago and they last about two years and they replace it for free. The voltage regulators fail due heat and vibration.

Sorry for jacking your thread. I used a 125 amp circuit breaker for my battery relocation and #2 welding wire with the Moroso NHRA approved sealed battery box from Summit.

import racer
07-16-2012, 04:04 PM
Speaking of voltage regulators is there a way to test them,I have couple that I want to check so I can change my carbed one to go on my efi car.

lostforawhile
07-16-2012, 04:47 PM
Speaking of voltage regulators is there a way to test them,I have couple that I want to check so I can change my carbed one to go on my efi car.

you could have an alternator test done with it installed, with the alternator out it just takes a minute to change them, you could even leave the rear cover off during the test to save time

import racer
07-17-2012, 11:54 AM
thank lost,i check it out after I figure out my clutch problem .need to get that fixed first.