FI Carbed heads interchange?

[rc00netzero]

OK guys - need a little help please. I've got bad valves or a blown head/headgasket. I was looking to get a JY head to have rebuilt so I can just pop & swap quickly.

problem is the JY only has Carbed 3g's

I searched but didn't find a clear answer.. Are the carbed heads the same as the EFI heads? Do I need to match the exact engine model or is any A20 good? 1987 LXI 4door US built.

Thanks

[ecogabriel]

There is no difference in carbed or FI heads; 86-89 are all A20s.
A 85-87 EFI Prelude head should work also

[conozo]

I just had my head rebuilt by a shop here in town for 190. They replaced the valve seals, checked for cracks, cleaned it up, and milled the bottom. If that's in your budget then you might want to look at that option. That cost doesn't figure in the head gasket or valve stem seals, which I think would be around 60 total.

[POS carb]

I have an lxi head on my lx, only difference is a 3rd distributor mount ear that isn't used

[Dr_Snooz]

I have an lxi head on my lx, only difference is a 3rd distributor mount ear that isn't used

This. You'll need to swap the distributor mount off the FI head onto the new one.

I'll second Conozo's advice too. You're taking a real gamble with a junkyard motor. If you end up pulling it back out again, any time you saved will be more than lost.

[rc00netzero]

Thanks for the info guys - I had seen the mention of the dizzy mount difference, but did not realize the mount was a removable part...

And yes I will have the JY head rebuilt and checked by a shop I trust before installing. I just don't have a way at present to move the car to a good work site and dont want to have it totally immoble while the head is being rebuilt. Not to mention burning two separate vacations to get it done. With 197000 miles on my head figure JY odds are in my favor as to wear. If not the shop will let me know and I can exchange for another one.

I have done engine rebuilds before (non-OHC though, and it's been a while) but, any particular gotchas I should watch for on the A20 head R&R? Any special indicators to watch for at the JY when picking a head? Since I can use a Carbed one I will have several to choose from now.

[cygnus x-1]

These heads are pretty straightforward. Biggest thing to watch for is cracks around the valves and major pitting around the coolant passages. Pits can be welded up without too much trouble but no sense doing that if you don't have to. Cracks could theoretically be fixed too but way too much trouble for such a common head. Only other thing to watch for is major wear on the rockers or trunnion bars. Replacement parts are getting harder to find.


C|

[rc00netzero]

???? OK now I am really puzzled. Pulling the head with manifolds at the JY hit a snag. The head is LOOSE but will not come off! It swivels left and right about 2 inches at the dizzy end and will lift off about 1/4 inch, but it acts like there is still something holding it near the timing belt end. It's not the intake manifold support - I got it loose (unless there is more than one), or the pwr steering pump.

I tried everything but a crowbar (and only because I was afraid of marring the gasket surface). We even hooked a hoist to the manifolds and tried to lift it off - but it started LIFTING THE WHOLE CAR!:wtf:

Please - anyone have any idea what could be stopping the head from lifting off?

[cygnus x-1]

???? OK now I am really puzzled. Pulling the head with manifolds at the JY hit a snag. The head is LOOSE but will not come off! It swivels left and right about 2 inches at the dizzy end and will lift off about 1/4 inch, but it acts like there is still something holding it near the timing belt end. It's not the intake manifold support - I got it loose (unless there is more than one), or the pwr steering pump.

I tried everything but a crowbar (and only because I was afraid of marring the gasket surface). We even hooked a hoist to the manifolds and tried to lift it off - but it started LIFTING THE WHOLE CAR!:wtf:

Please - anyone have any idea what could be stopping the head from lifting off?


There are 2 manifold supports.


http://www.hondapartsdeals.com/hpa/images/illustration/31/1345389.png



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[POS carb]

power steering bracket bolts to the head AND block if I am not mistaken

[rc00netzero]

:/ Thanks Guys
Turned out the real problem was brains fried by Alabama sun. We failed to see one head bolt still in (loosened but not out). When we went back - we saw it right away. Felt like idiots but got the head out - removed the manifolds (after sawing the egr pipe in two). My shop say it is within spec - so I guess we didn't damage it lifting on it. Sigh...

[rc00netzero]

OK this ones taking forever - can't get enough time off work. I do have a concern about swapping the Distributor mount. It looks like the mount is also part of the camshaft bearing.

Am I going to have to remove the cam followers/rockers and pull the camshaft to do this swap?

[cygnus x-1]

OK this ones taking forever - can't get enough time off work. I do have a concern about swapping the Distributor mount. It looks like the mount is also part of the camshaft bearing.

Am I going to have to remove the cam followers/rockers and pull the camshaft to do this swap?


You don't have to take the cam out but you will have to lift the rocker assembly to get the distributor mount/bearing cap off. It's really not that hard to do. If you don't remove the cam cap bolts after loosening them the rocker assembly will stay together. Only remove the bolts for the distributor mount and it will slide off the rocker trunnions.


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[Dr_Snooz]

^^^What Cygnus said. The only thing I'll add is to be sure you torque everything to spec in the proper sequence when you change the dizzie mount.