PDA

View Full Version : I broke an E Z out!!!



King Peetis
07-29-2012, 06:26 AM
I was ready to drop the torque rod (the one next to the shift rod) to replace the rubber, extension end bushing (part # 54303-SB2-010) as I turned the bolt I twisted the head

right off. :rant: That's not the worst of it. I got set up to remove the stud. I drilled a hole directly in the center and using a bolt extractor, I started turning...Snap!! THE LITTLE FUCKER BROKE!! :rocket:


OK, the question is "what is your best method to remove the EZ out?" My first thought is to drill little micro holes next to it and tap it clockwise until it frees up. :nervous:

lostforawhile
07-29-2012, 06:43 AM
I was ready to drop the torque rod (the one next to the shift rod) to replace the rubber, extension end bushing (part # 54303-SB2-010) as I turned the bolt I twisted the head

right off. :rant: That's not the worst of it. I got set up to remove the stud. I drilled a hole directly in the center and using a bolt extractor, I started turning...Snap!! THE LITTLE FUCKER BROKE!! :rocket:


OK, the question is "what is your best method to remove the EZ out?" My first thought is to drill little micro holes next to it and tap it clockwise until it frees up. :nervous:

well I hate to say it but there is no easy out for an easy out, the transmission is probably going to have to come out,possibly be dismantled, and you are going to have a to find a machine shop with a tap disintigrator, good luck. It will be cheaper to find a used transmission. The steel in those is so hard it's almost impossible to remove, for reference for anyone else who breaks that worthless tiny bolt, the best thing to do is center punch it, but drill out the bolt, then redrill and tap for 5/16 24 threads, you have to drill the washer holes slightly larger, but there is plenty of material to tap to a useful size

lostforawhile
07-29-2012, 06:54 AM
you need to look for a machine shop that has one of these
http://www.metal-disintegrators.com/

since you are in Atlanta you may have better luck, but I'm pretty sure you will have to dismantle the transmission first

King Peetis
07-29-2012, 07:01 AM
well I hate to say it but there is no easy out for an easy out, the transmission is probably going to have to come out,possibly be dismantled, and you are going to have a to find a machine shop with a tap disintigrator, good luck. It will be cheaper to find a used transmission. The steel in those is so hard it's almost impossible to remove, for reference for anyone else who breaks that worthless tiny bolt, the best thing to do is center punch it, but drill out the bolt, then redrill and tap for 5/16 24 threads, you have to drill the washer holes slightly larger, but there is plenty of material to tap to a useful size

That's not an option for me Lost. I will work at it until it comes out. I have gotten them out before but it takes hours of tedious work and focus. The worst case is I damage the original hole and have to helicoil it. I guess Im in a little bit of trouble.

lostforawhile
07-29-2012, 07:06 AM
That's not an option for me Lost. I will work at it until it comes out. I have gotten them out before but it takes hours of tedious work and focus. The worst case is I damage the original hole and have to helicoil it. I guess Im in a little bit of trouble.

I can send you a 5/16 tap and the proper drill bit if you need them,you might need a right angle drill, I could also whip up a quick drill guide on monday. the hole is going to be pretty much destroyed if you can get that out. Breaking off an easy out in an aluminum part is one of the worst case scenarios you can have, I did the same thing but I just drilled out the bolt and tapped 5/16 -24 ,then drilled the washer holes out with a 5/16 so the bolt will fit

elpuma
07-29-2012, 09:55 AM
That lil bolt broke on me once. What i did was use a dremel with a cut wheel and made a line over it. That way i could use a flat head to screw it out.

lostforawhile
07-29-2012, 10:10 AM
That lil bolt broke on me once. What i did was use a dremel with a cut wheel and made a line over it. That way i could use a flat head to screw it out.

the problem he has is he now has both the bolt and and ez out stuck in it, the ez out is almost impossible to remove

nswst8
07-29-2012, 10:44 AM
Take to a welding shop that does tig, if they are any good they can weld a nut in place and spin out the broken nut. You build up some material on top of the broken tap, set a nut over the build material and fill in the rest of the center of the nut. Spin it out.

lostforawhile
07-29-2012, 10:51 AM
Take to a welding shop that does tig, if they are any good they can weld a nut in place and spin out the broken nut. You build up some material on top of the broken tap, set a nut over the build material and fill in the rest of the center of the nut. Spin it out.

if he's going to take the thing out anyway, he might as well locate a place that does the tap disintegration and be done, it's going to be hard to weld to that easy out,it's been tried at work trying to save things and it just doesn't hold, with there being a major metropolitan area there there is likely to be a shop that does this

cygnus x-1
07-29-2012, 10:52 AM
EZ-outs are almost entirely useless. They should be called EZ-breaks.

There are a few options. First you might try using a torch and penetrating lube spray to alternately heat and cool the part. Thermal cycling tends to loosen up rusted and seized parts. Aluminum also expands more with heat so that will help in this case.

If you have access to a MIG welder you can try and build up the stuck bolt/EZ-out enough to weld a nut or something to the end of it. The weld will not stick to the aluminum so you don't have to worry about that.

You can use a tungsten carbide bit in a rotary tool to grind the EZ-out out. EZ-outs are pretty hard so about the only things you can cut them with are carbide, diamond, and grinding stones. Tungsten carbide bits are generally available wherever Dremel bits are sold.

In some cases you can also use nitric acid to dissolve steel parts stuck in aluminum parts. This is probably not practical here.


No matter what, the tranny case will have to be drilled and tapped for a larger screw or some sort of thread insert.



C|

jzdude
07-29-2012, 10:57 AM
To prevent this from happening again, its best to clean out the threads and use new bolts. It happens that breaking bolts and fasteners is very common and breaking the E Z out is just as common. There are places that solely extract bolts and they use Electric discharge machines. The thing is that they want you to take out the part to give them.

2oodoor
07-29-2012, 12:01 PM
That lil bolt broke on me once. What i did was use a dremel with a cut wheel and made a line over it. That way i could use a flat head to screw it out.

This is a often overlooked brilliant idea.
I think i've broken every easy out i've ever used lol

Pete it may come out easy, sometimes they turn loose with ease, they are not like stuck bolts... Heh maybe THATs why they called easy outs :kekeke:

Dr_Snooz
07-29-2012, 02:03 PM
I generally try to use some anti-seize on any steel bolt going into an aluminum hole. That won't help you now, obviously, but as a future best practice it might be good.

Good luck with the repair.

nswst8
07-29-2012, 04:08 PM
You will not have to pull the tranny to weld a nut to it. It's one of the first things I would do but I weld alot and I look for any challenge to weld on anything. It's how you get good at welding.

You can mig it, I would choose tig easier to build your material out.

But of course find a carbide bit and drill out the EZ out then retap the hole.

88Accord-DX
07-29-2012, 06:45 PM
Might be able to put a torch to it & hit it to the right with a small chisel & back the E-Z out... Cheap E-Z outs aren't as hard as good ones, so you maybe able to get a good titanium or better drill bit & drill it out with a 90 degree angle drill *.... I have blown bolts out with a cutting torch before, but don't recommend it for the novice user.

Oldblueaccord
07-30-2012, 05:36 AM
Yeah if you can hit it with a pointed chisel(and safety glasses are a must). its fairly hard but brittle it will start to chip out. Remember when you turn it left they dig in but right they want to fall right out.

I always use the biggest Ez out you can for the strength.


wp

cygnus x-1
07-30-2012, 12:50 PM
I generally try to use some anti-seize on any steel bolt going into an aluminum hole. That won't help you now, obviously, but as a future best practice it might be good.


ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS, use anti-seize or at the very least grease or oil on screws going into aluminum. Otherwise it WILL gall up and make for a bad time.


C|

King Peetis
07-30-2012, 03:12 PM
The best part of this is all the Rock Star 3Gs fellas hooking me up with a corrective action--I cant ask for more than that...



I can send you a 5/16 tap and the proper drill bit if you need them,you might need a right angle drill, I could also whip up a quick drill guide on monday. the hole is going to be pretty much destroyed if you can get that out. Breaking off an easy out in an aluminum part is one of the worst case scenarios you can have, I did the same thing but I just drilled out the bolt and tapped 5/16 -24 ,then drilled the washer holes out with a 5/16 so the bolt will fit

Thanks Lost for your generosity, but I think I have what I need for the job. I just need to work on my technique so I don't break ez-outs...


That lil bolt broke on me once. What i did was use a dremel with a cut wheel and made a line over it. That way i could use a flat head to screw it out.

This what I'm gonna try first-thanks


Take to a welding shop that does tig, if they are any good they can weld a nut in place and spin out the broken nut. You build up some material on top of the broken tap, set a nut over the build material and fill in the rest of the center of the nut. Spin it out.

This is the worst case fix. I hope this doesnt come to pass-Thanks for the advice


EZ-outs are almost entirely useless. They should be called EZ-breaks.

There are a few options. First you might try using a torch and penetrating lube spray to alternately heat and cool the part. Thermal cycling tends to loosen up rusted and seized parts. Aluminum also expands more with heat so that will help in this case.

If you have access to a MIG welder you can try and build up the stuck bolt/EZ-out enough to weld a nut or something to the end of it. The weld will not stick to the aluminum so you don't have to worry about that.

You can use a tungsten carbide bit in a rotary tool to grind the EZ-out out. EZ-outs are pretty hard so about the only things you can cut them with are carbide, diamond, and grinding stones. Tungsten carbide bits are generally available wherever Dremel bits are sold.

In some cases you can also use nitric acid to dissolve steel parts stuck in aluminum parts. This is probably not practical here.


No matter what, the tranny case will have to be drilled and tapped for a larger screw or some sort of thread insert.



C|

All great ideas. Hope I don't have to resort to a high-tech removal


This is a often overlooked brilliant idea.
I think i've broken every easy out i've ever used lol

Pete it may come out easy, sometimes they turn loose with ease, they are not like stuck bolts... Heh maybe THATs why they called easy outs :kekeke:

Word!!:naughty:


I generally try to use some anti-seize on any steel bolt going into an aluminum hole. That won't help you now, obviously, but as a future best practice it might be good.

Good luck with the repair.

Gotcha-Thanks


You will not have to pull the tranny to weld a nut to it. It's one of the first things I would do but I weld alot and I look for any challenge to weld on anything. It's how you get good at welding.

You can mig it, I would choose tig easier to build your material out.

But of course find a carbide bit and drill out the EZ out then retap the hole.

Yep.Im gonna try the carbide technique first...


Might be able to put a torch to it & hit it to the right with a small chisel & back the E-Z out... Cheap E-Z outs aren't as hard as good ones, so you maybe able to get a good titanium or better drill bit & drill it out with a 90 degree angle drill *.... I have blown bolts out with a cutting torch before, but don't recommend it for the novice user.

Actually Im gonna try this first before I start drilling. A little heat goes a long way.


Yeah if you can hit it with a pointed chisel(and safety glasses are a must). its fairly hard but brittle it will start to chip out. Remember when you turn it left they dig in but right they want to fall right out.

I always use the biggest Ez out you can for the strength.


wp

Good idea


ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS, use anti-seize or at the very least grease or oil on screws going into aluminum. Otherwise it WILL gall up and make for a bad time.


C|

Point taken.

King Peetis
07-30-2012, 03:19 PM
I got a shit-ton of carbide rotary bits. Im gonna grab some carbide drill bits tomorrow. I will provide a pictoral and step by step when I start working on it.

I will not let that EZ-out win! I will overcome...

Oldblueaccord
07-30-2012, 04:07 PM
yeah that's true you can dig it out with a dremal tool and a diamond bit.



wp

King Peetis
08-04-2012, 07:18 PM
Sorry, no pics but I got the son of a bitch out! First I tried to drill around it and knock it out. No luck and made the hole look like hell. So what I did was I used a carbide bit and drilled down the shank of the ez-out, just like butter. I used a rotary bit on my dremel to remove the remaining bits of the ez-out. Now the shank of the original bolt is still in the hole. I got a bigger ez-out and started twisting and then stopped. The stud coming off the trans that the stuck bolt is in is .794 in diameter. I got a reamer bushing with an I.D. of .800 that slipped right over the stud. I found a drill bushing that had a .250 I.D.

I ground the .250 bushing just enough to firmly slip inside the larger bushing. I bonded the two with JB Weld. After it cured, I slipped it over the stud, then drilled right down the middle of the bolt and enlarged the hole to a perfect .250. I tapped the hole and inserted a helicoil. The hole is as good as new. But with lots of headache though...

Oldblueaccord
08-05-2012, 03:29 AM
Good deal I was wondering.

Use anti seize on bolts that go into aluminum it helps.

wp

nswst8
08-06-2012, 11:43 AM
Great job.

2oodoor
08-06-2012, 02:36 PM
Wow that sounded exciting there with all the tactical excavation materials & decimals n stuff:omg: nice work!!

POS carb
08-10-2012, 03:14 PM
good job. Reminds me of the time I used the wrong bolts on the torque converter and snapped them all and had to extract them one at a time while it was still in the car, I wanted to set fire to the car

King Peetis
08-10-2012, 04:52 PM
Good deal I was wondering.

Use anti seize on bolts that go into aluminum it helps.

wp

good idea, thanks


Great job.

Im getting too old for this stuff :thumbup:


Wow that sounded exciting there with all the tactical excavation materials & decimals n stuff:omg: nice work!!

It sounds as complicated as it was. That junk took me all day!!


good job. Reminds me of the time I used the wrong bolts on the torque converter and snapped them all and had to extract them one at a time while it was still in the car, I wanted to set fire to the car

I can only imagine how difficult it was. If it wasn't for Lexapro, I would have thrown my tool box in the frickin' woods!!!