Seeping Flare Fittings

[Dr_Snooz]

I have two flare fittings on my brake lines that are seeping. I have them tightened down pretty good, but they continue to seep. One is a hard line going into the prop valve that's leaked since I did my rear disc swap. The other is a hard line to soft line connection at the rear brake caliper that just started leaking recently. Or at least, I've only discovered it recently. I know I will have to open them up to find out what's happening, but that will involve finding someone to help me bleed the brakes, etc. If anyone has any experience with this and can tell me what kind of parts to have on hand, then maybe I'll only have to bleed them one time.

Thanks!

[Dr_Snooz]

No one has ever had any trouble with leaky flare fittings?

[A18A]

is it leaking from the thread or the line? I had one leaking from the thread, i wrapped it in thread tape and it's been good since

[2oodoor]

Sometimes you just need to reseat it by backing out the nut, either Pull the line out and clean it some or just move it around some and retighten the nut.
If its steel line it could be split or a tiny burr on it.
LOl you sure can't use plumbers putty on brake lines though, maybe teflon like A18 said or liquid teflon but don't get any inside the line.

[nswst8]

Check for debri in the fitting, sometimes alittle dirt can get in there to keep the fitting from fully seating.

As for bleeding, I use a container filled with some brake fluid and a bleed line submerged into the brake fluid and the other end attached to the bleed valve 1/4 open. Keeping the reservoir filled. Begin bleeding the brakes.

As long as you keep the reservoir filled and the bleed line stays submerged in the brake fluid you can bleed the system this way. I do it this way when I'm short of friends to assist.

[pickupman6]

+1 for waht phil said. Another way is power bleeding. If you don't have one you can make one out of a syphon blow gun a mason jar and 2 barbed fittings. Put the barbed fittings int the lid screw the lid on the jar, attach the syphon hose from the blowgun to one fitting and a hose going from the other to the other fitting to the bleeder valve. Wrap a rubber band around the trigger of the blow gun and open the bleeder valve. All you have to do now is keep the master cyl full and when there is no more air coming out the bv, close it. This also makes flushing the brake lines simple.

[lostforawhile]

+1 for waht phil said. Another way is power bleeding. If you don't have one you can make one out of a syphon blow gun a mason jar and 2 barbed fittings. Put the barbed fittings int the lid screw the lid on the jar, attach the syphon hose from the blowgun to one fitting and a hose going from the other to the other fitting to the bleeder valve. Wrap a rubber band around the trigger of the blow gun and open the bleeder valve. All you have to do now is keep the master cyl full and when there is no more air coming out the bv, close it. This also makes flushing the brake lines simple.

be careful trying to pressurize a mason jar, people have been hurt pretty bad trying to do this with glass jars NV you are vacuum bleeding I read it wrong

[pickupman6]

Yeah its a pretty small amount of vacuum too. Only like 12 hg.

[lostforawhile]

Yeah its a pretty small amount of vacuum too. Only like 12 hg.

well some people have tried to pressure bleed with mason jars and grenaded the jars

[pickupman6]

I'm not sure I would even know how to set that up. Are you talking about pushing it back though the bleeder valve or putting pressure on the master cylinder side? Not that I wanna try. If pushing it through the valve you could have a hose from th bv go through the lid and into the brake fluid in the jar, then just pressurizing the jar with compressed air.as lost said thoug, you definitly need to be carefull doing it this way. I wouldn't put mor than 10 psi to it.

[lostforawhile]

I'm not sure I would even know how to set that up. Are you talking about pushing it back though the bleeder valve or putting pressure on the master cylinder side? Not that I wanna try. If pushing it through the valve you could have a hose from th bv go through the lid and into the brake fluid in the jar, then just pressurizing the jar with compressed air.as lost said thoug, you definitly need to be carefull doing it this way. I wouldn't put mor than 10 psi to it.

master cyl side, I used to have setup with a modified lid, but some people have tried to do it by pressurizing a mason jar full of fluid and forcing it through, if you have a good seal and a non glass jar, I don't think you can over pressurize the master, never seen a compressor with that kind of pressure

[pickupman6]

When I used to work on big rigs we did it that way, but we just hooked the air hose to the special cap on the mc. It had a buit in regulator and a sight glass to keep an eye on the fluid level. I like the vacuum bleed system better cause its universal for all vehicles. Sure it might use a little more fluid and take a. Little longer but its still my preferred way of bleeding brakes.

[Dr_Snooz]

+1 for waht phil said. Another way is power bleeding. If you don't have one you can make one out of a syphon blow gun a mason jar and 2 barbed fittings. Put the barbed fittings int the lid screw the lid on the jar, attach the syphon hose from the blowgun to one fitting and a hose going from the other to the other fitting to the bleeder valve. Wrap a rubber band around the trigger of the blow gun and open the bleeder valve. All you have to do now is keep the master cyl full and when there is no more air coming out the bv, close it. This also makes flushing the brake lines simple.

Do you find that air pulls around the bleed screw this way? I tried it with a vacuum pump once and it was not very successful. I just got a ton of bubbles.

[nswst8]

The key, is not to open the bleed valve to much. This is a great reason for speed bleeder valves. Although I have done it this way for years.

[lostforawhile]

how tight did you tighten these flares? it doesn't take a lot of torque and they can be damaged from overtightning

[Dr_Snooz]

how tight did you tighten these flares? it doesn't take a lot of torque and they can be damaged from overtightning

Well, not much at first. As they kept leaking, I tightened more. I'm at the point now where something is going to break if I tighten any harder.

[lostforawhile]

Well, not much at first. As they kept leaking, I tightened more. I'm at the point now where something is going to break if I tighten any harder.

they don't need to be tightened that much, if they are leaking and that tight something is wrong, the flare and the flanged end on the tube are what makes the seal and it doesn't take a lot of pressure to make it seal, take them loose and make sure there is no debris, both ends should have a smooth finish, if you see any damage they have to be replaced

[nswst8]

Reflare the end, see if that will help. I have abused these and it is really unusual you are having this much trouble.

[Dr_Snooz]

I guess I'll pull them apart and see what's up. Not sure when that's going to happen. I have to plant the fall garden now.

I have had a lot of trouble with flare fittings over the years. If they aren't dead straight in the hole, they won't seal and will leak like crazy. If you aren't really careful bending them so they go in straight, the line crimps and you're screwed. I guess it's my burden alone.

[2drSE-i]

I guess I'll pull them apart and see what's up. Not sure when that's going to happen. I have to plant the fall garden now.

I have had a lot of trouble with flare fittings over the years. If they aren't dead straight in the hole, they won't seal and will leak like crazy. If you aren't really careful bending them so they go in straight, the line crimps and you're screwed. I guess it's my burden alone.

Unfortunately, patience is REALLY key with any flare fitting on this car. Takes forever to get any of them lined up.

[MessyHonda]

maybe drain everything and clean up the flares with some brake clean. also what kind of fluid are you using? OEM or aftermarket

[lostforawhile]

maybe drain everything and clean up the flares with some brake clean. also what kind of fluid are you using? OEM or aftermarket

brake fluid? there is no OEM fluid, well there is but it's nothing but plain old DOT 3 or 4 with a Honda label slapped on it and a higher price tag, brake fluid is brake fluid, there is no difference, DOT 3 or 4 has to meet very stringent specs

[MessyHonda]

brake fluid? there is no OEM fluid, well there is but it's nothing but plain old DOT 3 or 4 with a Honda label slapped on it and a higher price tag, brake fluid is brake fluid, there is no difference, DOT 3 or 4 has to meet very stringent specs

every company makes it different just like motor oil and it just has to meet the requirements. i personally use Napa 5.1 synthetic since i switched over and i never had a problem.

[POS carb]

sorry bud, as stated I think the lines aren't seating due to deformation or debris. You are right not to keep tightening them. You might be able to clean the flares with sand paper.
I bleed my brakes myself with a 1-way vacuum valve and the end of the hose in a jar of brake fluid and my brake pedal response is immediate, better than 99% of the cars I have worked on. Just can't pump too hard or I blow the hose off the bleeder.

[lostforawhile]

every company makes it different just like motor oil and it just has to meet the requirements. i personally use Napa 5.1 synthetic since i switched over and i never had a problem.

brake fluid has to meet much more stringent requirements then motor oil, it it's rated for dot 3 or 4 it's almost identical to other brands

[Dr_Snooz]

I have bled using the hose in the fluid method. It does work, but I can never tell when I've bled enough. When you have someone helping you, you see the black fluid turn into clear, and you're done. Doing it alone, I can't see that, so I go through a few bottles being overly perfectionistic.

I'm a wienie, I know.

[nswst8]

"Luke, trust the force" LOL

A simple road test will be sufficient.