Getting car winter ready is proving to be a challenge... help?

[spivey32]

A little background on me and the car. I have a 86 accord lx with 154k miles that previously belonged to someone that didn't take the greatest care of it but its in decent condition considering the age. I actually work at Honda Manufacturing of Alabama so having a dependable car is a must as I drive 600 miles a week every week. Well the car usually starts up without a problem in the summer heat but idles randomly and even when hot tries to die when slowing down. When its a cool morning I have to pat the gas to keep it running but idle improves a little when warmed up. I have consistently gotten 36mpg to work and back and when the engine is under load it runs like a top and pulls like i would expect it to. But when u let off completely it sputters and as I slow down tries to die. I finally took the top hat off and found the choke completely open and zip tied to a mechanism attached directly to the carb and not the choke thermo valve. Also the idle control valve seems to just be gone and the two hoses going to where it should be plugged off with screws and the large hose that I assume goes to the icv is bent over back into the intake manifold. It seems the handywork doesn't stop there as there are other replacement hoses in place. I can e mail pictures if needed . Where do I begin with this? I couldn't even budge to ac compressor to change the belt so im just frustrated at the car. Is it even worth the money and trouble? Any help is greatly appreciated.
Coty

[Buzo]

There are 3 options and none is an easy one in my opinion:

1) If you have the time to visit all the junk yards in your area to look for non broken vacuum actuators to replace yours, then go for it and fix it yourself. The vacuum schematics are available in the forum. if you noticed it, every hose has a number on it and the schematics tells you where to connect every single one. I am sure you are going to find some broken actuators in your car, and that's why they started to plug hoses.

2) You can de-vacuum your carb and remove all the emissions stuff, your car will run OK, but your gas mileage may get below 20 MPH.

3) Swap to a weber, but still you'll need to fine tune it, experiment with different jet sizes until you are satisfied with the performance.

I did 1) and 2) to my car so I can tell you with precision. My opinion of the 3) is just what I have read, so don't believe me so much :)

[Dr_Snooz]

You have a "project" car there, don't you? My advice is not to put too much money into it. What I've found with abused cars is that you spend a lot of time and money reversing all the "handywork." When you think you've about got it, some outlier event occurs and the car is totalled. With my 3g, I lovingly brought it back to life after my brother-in-law destroyed it. I spent a lot of time and money and was very happy with it. Then the oil pump lost pressure and the engine blew. With my truck, I spent a lot of time upgrading the carburetor and intake and making it run real nice. Then the timing chain slipped and bent all the valves.

In your case, run some injector cleaner through it. Reverse the "handywork" a little at a time and expect that the handywork was done to cover up other, deeper issues. Start saving up for another car and prepare for the outlier event that will finish this one off.

[spivey32]

Well its really a work car strictly and I don't plan on spending money on getting it running perfect. I just want it to idle half-assed and not die on me. I'm sure I could make a manual choke for it that would solve that. But if I do manage to find a idle control valve should i clean the inside of it and also does anyone think this will mostly cure my problem?
Will it crank easier and idle better in the cold? It gets down to the teens at times here not very long but it does.

[Oldblueaccord]

I think the big plus here is your getting 36 mpg. That's saving right there.

Choke will help the idle but only stone cold. This time of year there I doubt you would use it.

I would look at the throttle cable make sure its slack at idle warm and reset the idle. It is prolly the best you can do.

You can try Troys in cottonwood? and see if they have so junk ones.


wp

[Buzo]

Start saving up for another car and prepare for the outlier event that will finish this one off.

If what you are saying is true, I am not prepared for that! I always thought my car was going to last forever.

[spivey32]

Well it already idles between 1-2k. Does no one think a idle control valve will mostly cure it being as it doesnt even have one onat the moment?

[Dr_Snooz]

If what you are saying is true, I am not prepared for that! I always thought my car was going to last forever.

I'm just talking about cars that someone else has beaten and left for dead. If you want to get it running well again, you better like it a lot, because it will be long and expensive.

[Buzo]

I'm just talking about cars that someone else has beaten and left for dead. If you want to get it running well again, you better like it a lot, because it will be long and expensive.

You scared me for a second & thanks for the clarification!


Well it already idles between 1-2k. Does no one think a idle control valve will mostly cure it being as it doesnt even have one onat the moment?

Carbed cars actually have an Idle Control Valve. It is the vacuum actuator that is in the passenger's side of the carb and it is touching the throttle's shaft with an adjustable screw.

When the car is off, it is all the way extended (keeping the throttle slightly open) and as soon as you fire the car up, it will retract all the way due to the vacuum build up by the running engine. Then a solenoid will be switching the vacuum on and off at high speed in an attempt to keep the car accelerated at constant RPM.

That's why these cars (should) fire up without you pressing the pedal during cranking, this Idle Actuator does it for you.

Edit. I'm thinking that I may misunderstood what you wanted to say, If so, please just ignore me!

[spivey32]

What seems to be missing is the valve that attaches to the carb and has two medium vaccum lines coming from the passenger side and a large one going to the manifold. But if this is so and the hose is just looped back into the manifold then what goes to the other port that will be open when i reconnect the iacv?

[spivey32]

http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg196/scaled.php?server=196&filename=imag0137t.jpg&res=landing

Sorry its a link my phone is having technical difficulties. Notice the nice zip tie on the choke lever. So what valve am I missing? I found some donor cars at yards i gotta get started on it soon.

[Buzo]

You are missing the whole choke assembly. You will certainly need it for winter time.

Unfortunately I can't see if the Idle Control Actuator is there or not. The picture is too close.

But you can start fixing one issue at the time. If you can reinstall and adjust the choke, you are going to have a nice and automatic warm up process every morning.

[spivey32]

http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg442/scaled.php?server=442&filename=imag0132fb.jpg&res=landing

http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg707/scaled.php?server=707&filename=imag0144wv.jpg&res=landing

http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg802/scaled.php?server=802&filename=imag0145k.jpg&res=landing

I took some better pictures to hopefully give a better idea as to what I need. Would a manual choke be easier? Also I fixed two other vaccum leaks so hopefully the problems you seasoned 3g owners can see and point out will get it running good enough to be dependable again. Thanks guys

[HLW]

You are missing the choke and the fast unloader (term from the manual). The 2 hoses that are plugged with bolts connect to the fast unloader and the rod that is zip tied to the bolt connects to the choke coil as does the rod from the choke opener which is currently not connected to anything.