1987 Accord V8/RWD Project

[LJ1987LX-I]

First off, let me say sorry if this is the wrong spot. I tried posting this in "Project Central" but evidently I don't have the permission to post in there, so I figured posting in "General" would do well enough.

Okay, on to the real post. Well, as most of you know, I'll be squeezing a V8 Chevy under the hood of this little car, a project most of you will probably find enjoyable (at my expense), or sacrilege at best. Let me be the first to say that if you have anything negative to say about this project, I don't want to hear about it. Keep it to yourself.

I'm about to get my license back on Tuesday, so as soon as that tid-bit is taken care of, I will begin sourcing the parts. Not too big of an issue, because I already have solid leads on all but the transmission.

I did, however, think that it would do well to post the concept pictures as a start to this build thread, so you all could see what I, myself, am motivated to get out of this project in outward appearances. I had fun drawing these up, and I had fun picturing in my mind what this would like in real-life. I hope you guys get the same enjoyment out of these concept drawings as I did, and hopefully, it will instill some imaginative images in your minds as well.

Keep in mind, though, that these images do mix the nuances of the American Classic Muscle Car, and the superb body-lines that is Honda. I hope you guys enjoy this post.

This is step one of the build thread. More updates are forthcoming, including pictures of sourced parts, including a write-up of what I plan to do with each part, and how I plan to utilize that part best in the makings of GM3303G.

I will attempt to be as detailed as possible, I know I'm pioneering here, and if any would like to follow the path I tread, this will be a means for you to do so, so you can learn the hardships that you will face, the do's and don't's, and pro-tips (hehe).

Enjoy these images, fellas.

http://i1097.photobucket.com/albums/g350/lj-mosinfreak-buck/1987%20Accord%20V8%20RWD%20Swap%20Concept/555539_4008884493471_1082838562_n.jpg

http://i1097.photobucket.com/albums/g350/lj-mosinfreak-buck/1987%20Accord%20V8%20RWD%20Swap%20Concept/430997_4008884893481_1925465157_n.jpg

http://i1097.photobucket.com/albums/g350/lj-mosinfreak-buck/1987%20Accord%20V8%20RWD%20Swap%20Concept/539522_4010386811028_303330224_n.jpg

http://i1097.photobucket.com/albums/g350/lj-mosinfreak-buck/1987%20Accord%20V8%20RWD%20Swap%20Concept/100_1620.jpg

[Doward]

Ok questions:

1) Which V8 are you using - SBC Gen 1, LT*, or LS*?

2) Have you measured yet to ensure the V8 will fit under the hoot AT ALL?

3) You are aware you're going to have to cut a transmission tunnel, and fab mounts for the rear end assembly, correct?

4) Can I drive it when you finish? :D

[gfrg88]

It's been done a 1st(?) gen before, so it can be done in a 3rd gen with some ingenuity :)

[LJ1987LX-I]

Whichever generation of engine is in the '97-'03 (IIRC) Silverados and Tahoes. I do believe these are LS motors, but I could be wrong.

We have quite a bit of hood space in these cars, and through experience, the short-block Chevys use a more shallow design in their engines than say Ford and Nopower (Mopar). If height becomes an issue in the build, the cowl in the design will help allow hood-closure, especially on the blow-through carb conversion. I will be running an MSD, so ignition will still be controlled by the coil-packs. I'm going with a Holley blow-through 750cm carb. However, this car may be driven on a stock 5.3 until funds for the turbo and carb become available.

Yes, I am aware. We're going to do the trans-tunnel in a some-what different fashion, it will be held down with Zeus-clips so should I need to replace the clutch, or engine removal, I can remove the tranny from inside the car. Still not totally sure how this is going to be done though. Gas tank is going to be removed before the car is set on an S10 frame. Will be doing a fuel cell in the trunk or something.

Can you drive it? Sure, just don't wreck it. She's gonna be really uppity on take off.

[lostforawhile]

search for a thread on here where he converted one of these to rear wheel drive, there might be a lot of info that can help you

[LJ1987LX-I]

Suggestions for search criteria? These in-forum search engines never cooperate well with me.

[lostforawhile]

http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=64572

[SettleMoore]

If you're pulling a ls motor out a tahoe then you're pretty badly mistaken...97-03 covers more than three different motors

96-00 was the vortec 5700, which is somewhat based off the lt1/4.
99 was when GM first started using their ls motors in the suvs and shit
4.8 liters I dont know anything about, I dont really care either
The generation III 5.3 engine was 99-07, there were a few types
1. LM7- Iron block, aluminum heads. 02-07
2. Flex fuel version of LM7- 02-07
3. L33, 06-07, less than 25% of the 4wd pickups got this motor, theres ways of identifying it but I forget, too lazy to google. It is aluminum block and aluminum heads

6.0
In 99-01 the 6.0 was iron block and iron heads, starting in 02, that changed to ironblock/alum heads and there began to be two types of 6.0, the LQ4 and LQ9. The lq4 was a basic work truck/general 6.0 and the LQ9 was the luxury vehicle application, the difference is the pistons or whatever but in 04 they closed the gap in horspower between the two motors or whatever.

This is all pretty vauge but I hope it helps you in looking for what engine to use

[SettleMoore]

double post ignore

[LJ1987LX-I]

Then it's gonna be the LM7, I forget the terminology.

Thanks for the link, Lost.

[Doward]

LM7 = 5.3L, based on the LS design (iron block)

Same engine in my '05 Avy.

I have concerns regarding structural integrity if you cut out the transmission tunnel and install it with Zeus clips. Tell me you're looking at some form of a perimeter framing system for the chassis, with a beefy crossmember? OR better, a full on cage?

[lostforawhile]

LM7 = 5.3L, based on the LS design (iron block)

Same engine in my '05 Avy.

I have concerns regarding structural integrity if you cut out the transmission tunnel and install it with Zeus clips. Tell me you're looking at some form of a perimeter framing system for the chassis, with a beefy crossmember? OR better, a full on cage?

I think he said something about an S10 frame

[LJ1987LX-I]

Alright, lol. I'm going to attempt to clear up some of the confusion, and this is my bad, because I didn't get too detailed in the first post, it's my fault for making you guys guess, lol, forgive me, please.

Here's going to be my main to-do list, there will be branch-offs, but this is going to be the gist of it:

1.) I am going to source the engine first, tear it down, put new gaskets in it, new bearings, seals, check the valves through a leak-down test, if they pass the test, they will be used for the motor. Valve-lash and timing will be returned to optimum settings if they are out of whack. The whole motor is going to be like new, full rebuild. Since I can get one of these motors for $600, why wouldn't I make it new, when a brand new one itself is at least $1,500 through O'Rielly's, or etc.

2.) Source transmission. This is probably going to be one of the hardest parts of the whole conversion, finding a 5-speed manual transmission that can bolt up to the 5.3 block and handle the power. It's possible, through custom-made bell-housings. I am just hoping it doesn't come to that. Another factor is going to be cost. This, aside from turbo, will be the most expensive singular expenditure on this project.

3.) Once I have the motor and tranny together (clutch'd of course, everything the way they need to be), I will make contact with the guy who has the frame, Ford 8.8" rear axle, and various amounts of plate-steel for mounting, pull the gAy series out of the Honda (LOL I love this motor, but I'd rather have an 8. Unless I pick up another Accord... Then this Accord's power-train would go into the other Accord, while that Accord's guts goes to the guy... haha).

4.) The most tedious part of the project... A complete tear-down of the Honda. I'm probably going to putting a lot of parts up for sale, but the guy who gets the motor and tranny out of this car get's first dibs, anything he doesn't need, I won't need, and will likely be put up for sale here. (This includes dropping the fuel tank, but I may try to figure out how to modify this tank to work in the car, despite the RWD conversion. We'll see.)

5.) This is where it's going to be a bit tricky. I'm going to have to make the frame a roller, getting the wheels on it, suspension set (roughly), etc. so I can set the Honda's body on to the frame. This first set will consist of lining up the center of the front wheels to the center of the wheel-wells on the Honda front clip. Since the S10 only has about .8" longer of a wheel base, this modification should be easy, and I'll probably just modify the rear-axle/suspension points and move them forward .8", enough so the rear wheels center in the rear wheel-wells. (Car will be lifted off the body again during this process.)

6.) Once the suspension is properly set on the frame so that it matches the Honda's wheel-base, all excess frame on front and rear will be cut. I am going to attempt to salvage as much mounting points for the Honda front bumper as possible, so I won't have to touch anything on that.

7.) I am going to life the body back onto the frame, centering it for the proper wheel-base, then I'm going to go through a painstakingly long process of centering the frame on the body so I can mark where I have to cut to sink the body into the frame.

7.A) My buddy has an idea for something like a sub-frame. I'm going to have him draw up his plans first, before we even get this far to see if it will work. I want to make sure it will work, because if I don't go into this thing with a plan, it'd never get done. I'm trying to plan out as much of the build as possible, though I'm pretty much flying by the seat of my pants anyway.

Anyways, fast forwarding to structural integrity, I will probably be making a half-cage, there's going to be a pair of cross-bars of tubular steel that will act as a dash, yet give rigidity cross-wise. Will probably do a racing cage in the car as well, figuring that this is a lot of oomph coming out of a car that wasn't meant to have that power.

The transmission will have a custom-fab'd mount, looping under the casing, acting as a cross-member. Though I might have the mount come over the top of it if I can get proper ground-clearance so I can lift it with jacks to put it on stands, if I decide to have it swoop over top. Something I'm just going to have to wait to decide on until we get there.

[LJ1987LX-I]

disregard